After two days of our stay on the island Samoilovsky sent us boat, and we went on to storm Lena Olenyek duct – to the west, the longest arm length of 202 km of the delta.
Here’s what he wrote in 1743 in his report on the Great Northern Expedition one of the discoverers of these places outstanding polar explorer Chariton Laptev: “… above Ust-Lensky post (now Island Post) west passed duct Anardamskaya the call on which lie the mountains of the coast . “Said Laptev Anardamskaya duct – now Olenyek duct. One of its western branch now called Anarda-Үөһe.
Climbing in the rain and the wind whistling in the rocking on the waves of boat, to be honest, I doubted whether it is possible for such a storm to go somewhere. But, we appointed inspector of nature protection conductor Valery Dormidontov held, as if nothing had happened, and without hesitation or ado started the engine. When they came out of the river, it was found that the wave frighteningly high, about 1.5 m tall. We became nehilo watering cold spray, the bow and then be covered wave. This does not seem like a tempest in the river, rather, it looked like a sea storm.
Naturally, I reached out to put on a lifejacket, but Valera said with a smile: “You can not wear, do not be afraid.” A colleague of mine, an experienced specialist tundroved, during the Soviet years traveled around North Yakutia, said generally terrifying phrase: “Here in the Delta, a life jacket will not help – water ice”. Hear it was really creepy. But what to do, as they say, in for a penny, in for a pound. Hid double layer raincoats, and although the conductor advised not to lean out, I was drawn to get the camera and take pictures of this pandemonium, but it should not have done – inside the machine could get water.
Yes, inexperienced newcomer scary to be in the Arctic. We walked along the raging waves, and it was clear – we either swim out or swim out. Yes or no, the other is not given, and if that assistance should not wait. It was obvious that you just need to trust the experience and composure of our guide. And, as I later convinced the North trust becomes central to human relationships, whether personal or collegial relationship. Trust partner, companion, friend, with whom you are fighting against the elements – the main thing. Sum can not be here, because it is – a matter of life or death.
Late in the evening, a few hours a desperate battle with the waves passing over a hundred kilometers, we finally arrived at the appointed place – the base of the cordon-Tumus Chai. Another of his name – Gusinka. Tiny darkened hut on a small deserted beach. We met his wife Valerie Nurguyaana.
In the distance could be seen sloping spurs Czekanowski ridge, in the immediate vicinity extended gravelly, spotted tundra below was swamped the roll polygonal tundra. Pay attention scattered across the tundra rusty casks gasoline remains some equipment and wooden tower. Valera said here during the Soviet era was a small base miners were coal exploration.
Dragged ordinary field weekdays. Here flowering tundra exceeded the middle, and many have overblown. We toured the neighborhood in different directions. Not far from the base found in the Red, endemic species, including the required us Czekanowski poppy. This species is named after A. Czekanowski – famous Polish discoverer, traveler, who worked on the river. Olenyok and lower reaches of the Lena River in the late 19th century. His name also logs, which spurs were visible from the cordon.
Mytnik whorled (Pedicularis verticillata) of the figwort family – the most beautiful plant subarctic tundra of Yakutia.
Ilina Arnica (Arnica iljinii) of the family Asteraceae.
Parrya (Nevroloma) large-fruited (Parrya nudicaulis – Neuroloma nudicaule) of the cabbage family on coastal rocks.
Mack polar (Papaver polaris) – typical plant subarctic tundra.
Rhododendron Adams – heather plant Yakutia with marvelous caramel odor. Pink flowers are not inferior in beauty, perfection best varietal rhododendrons world. As aromatic additive to tea he is simply superb. Grows in the tundra and mountains of South and North, Northeast Yakutia.
On stormy days, we used to sit in our cabin, drove teas and had long conversations.
A few days later Valera said: “We have to hunt on the tundra, did not eat meat for a long time, there must be a deer nearby.” Stew them long over – for obvious reasons the supply situation here is generally pretty bad. However, fish were abundant, including stroganina in the glacier, but as I was convinced during his expedition to Alazeya northerners fish for food is not considered.
Valera gave us binoculars and instructed to survey the neighborhood in search of a suitable prey. Look out for a long time did not have – a few hundred meters from the cordon found a small herd. But the inspector carefully peered through binoculars and said that these deer are not suitable. Soon Valera and his wife met, got into the boat and left. Returned in the evening, tired but happy, dark with blood bag. Nurguyaana cooked gourmet soup of language and giblets. The first time I ate fresh venison meat was very tender and flavorful, the soup just excellent. After a long power tushenkoj it was a true feast. By the way, do not count this propaganda deer hunting. Boiler hunting is allowed locals and field researcher during an expedition. Here venison – vital sustenance. Since ancient times it has saved people from scurvy and starvation deaths. First wrote about this in his report Chariton Laptev, advance to take care of providing venison and fish his crew knew about the death of his wife Pronchishchev and many others in the First Northern Expedition from scurvy, and thus saved his team.
One afternoon we drank tea as usual. Stiff breeze blew. Transmitted by radio storm warning, and we decided not to go to the river. From the window could be seen as darkened Lena, and how quickly, catching up with each other, go on her white breakers.
We ate venison yesterday and drove leisurely conversation. In the tundra of the lost cabin even the most unpretentious everyday conversation grew some pretty, full of sense. Probably because in this harsh edge people are forced every day to survive, and in these circumstances, even the most ordinary item becomes crucial.
We talked about what forecast that reported on the radio, what is the status of products, boats, equipment, how much gasoline, and it was clear to us how important these simple things. The hosts talked about how they live here in the winter, it’s cold in the house, as they are from one year to patch up the hut, but still wind draughty. In blizzard door completely sweeps snow, and they have digged a long time afterwards to get out. And even told an unusual story of how one Nurguyaana was in the house hostage fox. We have foxes, like many animals, dangerous disease – rabies. As you know, this – a viral infectious disease, and it can be transmitted to humans. One day a rabid fox occupied house, covered in blood. He rushed into the house, scratching the door and struggled in the glass, almost breaking it. After long hours of “occupation” saved Nurguyaanu Valera arrived in the evening. I listened and within yourself amazed at how incredibly difficult to live here and the people survive. We pampered comfort in the city, in the daily hectic forget the value of life itself, the very possibility of being alive and ceased to enjoy the most unpretentious things.
When completing our simple tea party, we came out of the hut, it turned out that we have coming in the form of the element of lightning storms. Whole horizon turned black, the wind whistled loudly.
My tent struggled to resist wind, roll sideways frame creaked, awning popped and was ready to burst. Just laundered and posted Coy what clothes mistress furiously fluttering on the rope. All who ran – where, who – drag inside fur bedding, shoes, strengthen tent, and I grabbed the camera. We had to make two big shows this representation until the storm surged and boldly all around. On our side, yet the sun was shining, but rather all colors in dark colors, and all this created a very dramatic contrast of light and darkness, passion and serenity, noise and silence.
Then it started to rain … Then a rainbow appeared …
Soon a short time established calm, rare for these places. On the northern slopes on the banks of the ducts was still snow on the rocks, and near riotous color blooming tundra. Snow during the long winter of the press, and from the beginning of the warm period numerous cycles of freezing-thawing cause the appearance of an ice crust and ice layers. And these conglomerates of ice and snow-porous wavy structure do not melt until August.
Was half of July. Arctic polar day was in full swing, and the sun did not set. I specifically bought for this trip simple black-and-white e-book. Hoped to while away the evening light in the tent, because no way to have fun in the tundra, of course, was not expected. Do the owners had a satellite dish, but it passed so badly that it was impossible to do the TV to see, except the vibrating colored stripes. Valera almost every day climb to the roof, there is something struggling set up, but all ended unsuccessfully. Naturally, neither of which the Internet and mobile communications could not be considered. All that connected with the world – an old Soviet-era radio and radio. On top of that, after two or three days to read my e-book something happened – the text on the screen suddenly began to unravel. And soon, my favorite Haruki Murakami with his Iron Clockwork bird finally crumbled into black powder, and the display was nothing impossible to disassemble. And yet crumbled my hope at least for some entertainment.
Remained lying in a tent and listen to the noise of the wind. That had to be done in the days when a hurricane blew, and played out the storm on the river. Wind banged in a tent with furious force, and I thought that the tent fly or explode under the pressure of the elements. Especially because it was fixed very shaky, there is practically no pegs in that drive – almost no soil, only fine-grained, under which lies the solid pebbles. We put on a stone on each peg, but this dubious design caused no confidence. Seemed about to fall through the tent and fly in the air like a parachute. But this did not happen – an ordinary skeleton Greenell tent with awning, did not even new, oddly enough, stood.
When long lying in a tent and listen to the wind howl, there is an uncomfortable feeling that you are on the edge of the earth one and no one else in this world. And all your old life on the Great Earth suddenly begins to seem illusory, unreal. All the old feelings, emotions become insignificant, small and even ridiculous. All becomes clear – all intricate unraveling, all false disclosed. You begin to see the essence of things simple, covers all go, and remains important.
Then I had only a vague sense of guesswork, and I only realized much later, it seems, what is the mystery of the North. There becomes very significant, very important to being itself, and not a reflection of his mental or illusions about him. You remain alone with themselves and with the elements. On the one hand, a great feeling – a feeling of freedom. But, on the other hand, it’s pretty depressing, because you have to look at the truth and nothing guarantees that the struggle with the elements will be in your favor. If the truth about himself impartially, then you will not love the Arctic, and the fear of meeting with himself, the terror of loneliness, of confrontation with wild unbridled element will relentlessly chase you out of here. Weak in spirit do not stand here – take to drink, degraded desert. And those who are not afraid of the truth, risk, they only further hardened heart and fall in love with the North. And stay here forever. Or return again and again. Here in this, it seems, is a harsh beauty of the Arctic, and indeed, probably all extreme points of existence. Our Valera himself – Aldan Evenk, came here a long time, marrying a local, and stayed here. Said accustomed loved local places and have not drawn back to the mainland.
People who have passed the ordeal North and generally any extreme places, I think, changed forever. There is a wonderful documentary novel V. Troitsky, compiled from records in the ship’s log, made Hariton Laptev, captain dubel-boat “Yakutsk”. The author tells the incredible story of polar explorers of the Great Northern Expedition, how they died in the XVIII century here from cold, disease, fulfilling the task given to them to explore the northern sea coast of Russia. People perform the feat. So many graves from all northern expeditions scattered along the coast of the Arctic Ocean! Many burial lost forever, raze. Hariton Laptev and his crew took the hard way from the upper Lena River to its confluence with the sea, then by sea to the Yenisei, the first time opening the Taimyr Peninsula.
Enduring unimaginable hardships, dying from cold and diseases, they did a detailed survey the coast, made the first map of the sailing directions and navigation. Laptev alive and saved his team, shipwrecked among the ice, thanks largely to his courage and gift-organizer logistics. Unprecedented feat of polar and his talented team as well as a brilliant report submitted by him at the time remained almost unnoticed by the Russian authorities. His cousin Dmitry Laptev was in the team celebrated Vitus Bering. Brothers parted ways from the Lena Delta – Dmitry went from Behring to the east in search of the Strait that separates Asia from America, and went west Chariton. Laptev Sea is named in honor of these brave brothers. I believe that modern yakutians must know its heroes, remember their heroism and proud of them.
Finishing the story, I will say that, unfortunately, almost all of my photos taken in the Lena Delta in the expedition, were subsequently lost due to breakage of a portable disk. More than half the shots was restored, including these, but something was lost forever.
July 24, finished all the work planned on the banks Olenek ducts, we went in the opposite way. Now our way lying on the legendary island Tit-Ary, which gates the Lena Delta and keeps many scientific, historical mysteries.
In this joint work with our gallant conductor Valery, we have become a caring friend, a good guardian angel ended, and we had to regret parting with it. He brought us to Tit-Ary safe, safety, helped us get checked, if we have shelter, firewood, water, food, and went on still stormy river back to Chai-Tumus.
Tit-Ary Island is not uninhabited – there is a small fishing village. And here we have started is another story, which I’ll discuss in the next section. There are fishermen, boats full of sturgeon last northern array larch forests, wooden barges of the 19th century, the village was buried under the sand during the Second World War, Finnish track and Lithuanian graves, mummies, skulls, bulging their open coffins and whatnot …
Behind the curtain will add that I was recently released a set of postcards “Nature Yakutia”, some of these Arctic images entered there. Cards are brief comments on the Russian and English languages. Kit is commercially available in almost all souvenir and bookshops Yakutsk.
I take this opportunity to convey Valera and Nurguyaane my deepest gratitude, as well as inspections of nature Bulunskiy ulus and all those who held through this trip.
Source: Dnevniki.Ykt.ru
Translation: Google
