Baikal, the Lena River (1979)

Author – Alexander Nesterov (Vasilić)

Area map of our hike along the Lena River. The hike from July 1 to July 24, 1979. It was our first long-distance water hike. The group Kinschak Volodya, the head, the participants Nesterov Misha Vassilich Alexander Sychev. Alloy Tool – kayaks.

By 1979, travel club finally convinced us that our turn came to go in person for a long voyage. Weekend trips with rafting on the river Gauja on inflatable boats instilled confidence in their own abilities, met the company: Vasilić with his son Misha, a student, and colleagues Volodya and Sasha. Volodya and Sasha was the experience of a mountain four, we Misha – the experience of trekking and hiking weekend outputs fishing.

Long time to choose the route: the Urals or Siberia, and finally settled on the origins of Lena – the route of the third category with the elements of the fifth grade. Collected equipment: two kayaks Salute, variegated backpacks: Ermak, Yarovskaya, two Abalakovskih. Got the deficit since then – thirty cans of stew, and ten cans of condensed milk, salty bacon, grits are different, dried fruit, and anything else that could be bought in stores, nasushit crackers. The campaign was planned for 20 days running. For four had one double mountaineering tent, two foam mats and two inflatable mattress, sleeping bag was for everyone. They took an ax and two bow-shaped saw with spare blade. Each had an aluminum mug and spoon. Pots were planning to buy in Moscow.

From fishing equipment took 2 with a set of spinning lures and a fishing rod and reel.

To take a picture taken two camera Zenit-ET with a stock of film.

Detailed map of the route or KROOKU was not planning to go on the tourist circuit.

Kayaks taped before leaving on keel and stringers, as it turned out, tire sizing was tonkovat quickly rubbed on the rocks.  Weighing equipment before exiting showed that each had on 55 kg in two packages.

The head of the campaign and the assistant warden chose Volodya Kinschaka, the other duties assigned to the wishes of the participants.  Campaign plan was drawn up with the literature: by train to Irkutsk, the steamer to Onguren Komsomolets, under its own power to kayaking weather station at Cape dead people, pass on the upper reaches of the Lena River and rafting down the Lena to Kachug.

From this information, it follows that the campaign gathered sassy kettles – adventurers.

Diary of a campaign

July 1. Collect appointed on the platform at the train Riga-Moscow. Sasha arrived at the station in 5-10 minutes before the train. The day before his daughter was born, and in his circumstances, he should abandon the campaign, as the entire campaign, he hurried home, which immediately turned into a campaign running out in the race home. The objectives of the campaign were all different. We wanted to go fishing Misha, Volodya – just take a walk and work in the open air, Sasha interested semiprecious stones.

July 2. Arrived in Moscow. Moved to Yaroslavl Station. Volodya and I have moved in tourist shops for cooking utensils, Sasha and Misha looked after the property. Bought three tourist boiler that fit into each other. This is their first dignity. The second is that they are light, of duralumin. Everything else – lacks: a narrow bottom – are bad and poorly heated. Then Sasha and Misha took a trip to the city. From Moscow drove fast train “Baikal”. We rode in the last car. We met with the conductor – a student of the construction crew, friends, chopped wood, stoked titanium, have always been a hot tea.

3, 4, 5 July were on the road. The train stood waiting on stages, as they are repairing the road. For this reason, even late at night.

July 5. We arrived in Irkutsk. Quickly moved to the marina on the Angara and the “Rocket”, which usually goes to Listvyanka, came to Port Baikal, where usually depart “Komsomolets”. “Komsomolets” – the only passenger ship while on the lake, every five days searching all the pier of Lake Baikal. “Komsomolets” retired on July 4. We were late, but our guilt is not. Went to the port, the captain found a cargo ship, and agreed with him about Getting to Cape Pokoiniki for 25 rubles and a bottle of brandy, but with his condition, if there is a storm, he takes us into Severobaik, as well as stops against the weather station, we will shine a spotlight, and we kayak under its own power will go ashore. At that point we decided to do.  Settled down for the night on the banks of the Angara River near its source. Near the old railway sleepers were sketched, they were used for the fire. Vladimir and Alexander crossed by canoe to the village Limnological Institute, sent a telegram home, then we have determined to sleep with Misha, and themselves all night burned a fire and watched over, we did not budit.na bank of the Angara.

July 6. In turn, had breakfast in the morning in the port dining room, packed up and moved to the evening in the port. Boarded a cargo ship, the captain gave us a compartment in the bow, where they could take shelter from the wind and sleep. Soon came out. Towards evening the wind freshened, a wave, we looked at the Baikal and went to sleep.

July 7. Three o’clock in the night we picked up the captain and offered to collect the kayak. We have assembled one frisky canoe suddenly cracked engine, and came to the side of a large motorboat. She was launched on us, our gear, kayak collected and taken to the shore, where the weather station, and we settled back to bed. The boat came for salt. On the way back, the ship will carry salty Arctic cisco.

Seven o’clock we were awakened by the name Pound huntsman, handsome, tall, strong guy and invited him to his ear from the red deer, which pound the day before brought on itself because of the pass. Ear and salted cisco were good, used the gears in a jar of alcohol, Sasha gave radioman knife, gave us a pound of ham and red deer pounds 16-20 salty Arctic cisco.

Then Pound plunged our things on the truck tractor and minitractor took us to the foot of the pass, along the swath cutting through our ax.

Next I had to go on their own. After evaluation of the goods and our state, I offered to do a few walker, that is, the shuttle pass. Vladimir and Sasha flatly refused the shuttle, still mountain tourists, had to go with the whole load. A sleepless night, a change of pace of time, the ear of red deer with alcohol sapped our strength. When he reached the middle of the pass, I zabuntoval and said that I would spend the night here. Vladimir and Sasha left us bivouac gear, went down to fetch water. I promised to cook meat and boil the tea when they come for us. The guys still went up. We put up a tent with Misha, boiled tea. At this time by us to the pass light passed through several families of tourists. They floated on Lake Baikal and decided to go to the upper reaches of the Lena River. After two or three hours, they were back.

July 8. Volodya in the morning came with Sasha. Until they reached the top, frozen, spent the night around the campfire. In the morning went to the pass, left his load, they came for us. Had breakfast, took some things and went up to the pass. We were left with Misha put camp, cook dinner, and Volodya and Sasha went for the rest of the property, and then had lunch. The rest of the day went to the familiarity with the terrain, a photograph.

I experienced a very strong emotional lift, it became clear why people go to the mountains. Found a cairn, they took note left their. Steel packed bed, it was found that for the four cramped tent. The first night we Volodya spent outside the tents, under polythene. At night it was cold, the water froze in bowler hats.

July 9. After breakfast we gathered kayaks. At that time, approached by a group of tourists were fellow countrymen from Daugavpils. They left before we did and caught the “Komsomolets”. From Onguren two days reached the weather station and the shuttle in the morning began to pass. We packed up and went kayaking, although Pound warned that water to the creek Zolotokan little Lena very low water that the cargo to be carried to Zolotokana, which is about seven miles away. But so far sailed. About an hour came to the first waterfall height of 2-2.5 meters.

Under the waterfall there were many grayling. Was surrounded by a waterfall, began to catch grayling on the fly. Caught by the ear, cooked, remained for the night. To put nodyu practice, it turned out, I liked the warmth of her. The four slept in a tent. Inflatable mattresses and foam pads were applied not to each other, and in general it was crowded, sleeping head to toe.

July 10. Continued alloy and an hour later reached the second waterfall, rapids. Volodya went to explore and said that in front of the water, not even posting an empty kayak and can not be offered to carry things to Zolotokana. Sasha lost his temper and said that nothing would be more wear, picked up his backpack and went to Zolotokan. Volodya and I took some of the things left Misha with other things and to catch fish, made salable.

During this time, Mike caught a worm lenkov two large and a few grayling. The second best-selling Michael, Volodya and I moved the rest. Put the camp in the parking lot. Everything was clean tidy, firewood stacked in a pile, and even the flowers were in the bank. Misha cooked soup, tasted and said, like salmon in the bank. Ear everyone liked. From Zolotokana had the first crack in the relationship.

July 11. Missed in traveling. We are in a kayak Misha, Sasha, Volodya – in the other. Remnabor I put in my pocket kayaks. Attitude to kayak was quivering. Do not rub against the rocks. Volodya with Sasha gradually went away. On one of the shoals decided to see the state of the shell. All scrapes glued. Continued to move. Ahead was S-shaped clamp. Instead of going to a negative speed, we clumsily driving, flew into the rock so that the kayak stands up, I flew out of it and swam, then got up .. Mike held on to a rock, holding a kayak and a paddle when he saw that I was standing, swam too. At this time, Vladimir decided to look for us. On the high bank he saw the whole accident, hurried down to the river, went into the water and helped us catch outfit. The accident permanently soaked camera and disappeared remnabor all: it’s almost all rubber glue, patches, scissors, missing cap. The most notable was the loss of glue, as Volodya took just two bubbles, I – ten, eight of them drowned. Came out on the high right bank, camped, I was drying my stuff all night by the fire. At night all the time whistling bird. As it turned out, it was a creeper, senostavki – relatives of birds.

July 12. Began to move, and once again there was a need to carry out kayaks. In the end, they had to run 40 kilometers. On the advice of a tourist book we took a short rubber boots, and the river fossa and often they have to break down, feet wet all the time, which for me and Misha at the time was unacceptable. Misha had a spinal injury, was in the hospital, and I recently got out of the hospital after a fever. With long boots were no problems, and short – his legs were wet all the time. Volodya as head of the campaign has decided that he will carry kayaks and Sasha, Misha and I suggested we go along the trails. Trails along the banks of a lot, and it’s animal, including the bear, and tourism, natoptannoy Raftsmen. Initially, Sasha was outraged, and then relented. So it went, occasionally meeting on bends.

Legs Sasha and Volodya were always wet Gone Little Lena and nine kilometers in front of the entrance to the gorge camped on the right bank to the lived-in parking lot. Squirrels used to tourists and darting through the camp in search of something to eat. This parking lot was made an impromptu memorial Kayak RZ of broken frames and torn envelopes. In the evenings, children shoes dried, but it’s only psychological care, long boots would be better.

July 13. Continued to move in the same order to cross the threshold. There’s Sasha fell Chalke and kayak and canoe went on the threshold, and passed it safely floated on. I rushed over the rocks to catch up with the kayak, but sprained his ankle and then a long limp. Fortunately, huddled kayak to shore. After that, go rafting. In a kayak Volodya and Misha in the other – Sasha and me. And I’m pretty stubborn and Sasha, fret not happen, because of what it once tipped over and the next day came the same composition.

At the monument Kayak RZ us caught up and overtaken by the guys from Daugavpils. They are experienced enough to manage the equipment and kayaks, and told us about the technique uprpvleniya kayaks. They first time I learned about the negative velocity of the nail grip, etc. This knowledge is useful in the campaign.

Caught up with the two illegal hunters from Irkutsk. They went on an inflatable boat and lost all of the products had to share with them. We spent the night on the opposite sides, the fire burned all night, Vladimir and Sasha were on duty.

July 14. Glued kayaks. They flow, and glue a little, just repaired the hole, this skillfully worked Misha. The flow of the river slows down, there are blockages and boma. The rains came, then to lunch, then dinner until dawn. Camp has become difficult to find, swampy. Sasha hurry home, we have to go before dark. In the evening found the lower shelf on the right side. All wet. Found Sushina, sawed, nailed to logs and fused to the shallows. dissolved the fire and put nodyu, dry. Lena began to share in the ducts, there are blockages and combs. Vladimir and Sasha ever come off, no insurance. Again drove all day, when it was getting dark, embarked on glinistopeschanoy shallows. All soiled and soiled equipment, laundered already in Riga. Venues across amazing fishing, but the fish would not have been just a senseless race.July 15. Lena finally entered the marsh area, a lot of channels, Bohm, in some rubble precursor of propylene passages. Then he became less frequent blockages and marshy shores, the campsite is not found immediately. Kayaks are flowing, and the glue was over. Encamped on the high otmeli.Na our happiness sailed five tourists in three kayaks from Elecrtostal gave us two bottles glue and sailing directions of the Lena River and advice glue kayaks sap from larch. With lotsiey swimming has become more meaningful. We Misha walked slower, so Volodya proposed change seats again. Volodya went with Misha and I’m Sasha.

July 16. Went out in the nice weather, contact with Sasha did not work, uncompromising and intolerant. Went salable, passed the mouth of the river Pankucha, which I took to be Anai. Pankucha quiet river with a sluggish flow. While sitting in a kayak, tensions escalated. We went to the good shallows in front of which was a fallen tree-comb. According to the confused mind of Volodya and Misha realized that they flew into a comb and a swim. We decided to get up and drier. Kayaks are flowing, but the glue save. The one on the back, all the while sitting in the water that have to pour a glass.

July 17. The newly permutation crews kayaks. Volodya went with Sasha, and I with Misha. Rowing technique has improved, the river became deeper for more quickly. In the middle of the day were the river Anai. The fact that it Anai, we found the guys from Elecrtostal. In the mountain rivers flood coach stones to the mouth, and in the low water river trickling between the rocks and it is not visible. We got to the Chanchur. Already at that time the village there is not, the caretaker lives with the family of a gauge. Store and other benefits of civilization, of course not. Gone for Chanchur and stood in the shallows. In commemoration of the release to the people Volodya launched a flare.

July 18. In the morning the remnants of glue and glued us with Misha sent forward with a rebuke that we are always behind. We passed 15 miles and stopped because it was time for a snack, Mike wanted to eat and reproached me that I gave up a cracker.

After an hour and a half Volodya went to Sasha suspiciously quiet, but still managed to find out that they had almost died because of the differences in the tactics of sailing. They flew into the comb, refusing to yield to each other. Kayak capsized, drowning parachute bag with purses, films, axes, mugs and spoons, and a snack. In addition, they themselves could drown. Snack and went to Spillikins. From the counter motorboat learned that up to 18 Biryulki poseur (bends of the river). In spillikin came at 19.00 and at 19.30 Kachug left the bus. For 30 minutes we sorted and packed during disassembly found that both the front keel as a result of being hit by a rock killed.

We spent the night in Kachug on the banks of the river, sleeping in plastic bags. Misha said that for the first time the entire trip he slept in a warm and slept.

Canned lunch, eating out of cans of improvised means.

July 19. Up early, have noted the documents, bought bus tickets to Irkutsk and 14.00 were at the station in Irkutsk. Sooty coppers left in the square, no one wanted to take them in a backpack. With train tickets had difficulties, but on July 20 we got the tickets. They settled in the break room and decided to have a wash in the bath. Soap, and all drowned in the Lena went to buy soap. Soap was commercially. In one stall us to pull sold one piece, and we cleaned up in the bath and then went to the station restaurant. The waitress brought us amazingly fast everything ordered and after some hesitation asked us, “You guys seen recently from the taiga taiga smells on you.” Well the night and the next day went home.

July 20-22. The road to Moscow.

July 23. At 5.30 earnings per station within the city and five o’clock stood there. Volodya went on the subway to the Riga station for tickets to Riga. In the evening, left Riga by train and arrived home on July 24.

Findings from the campaign

1.Tschatelno explore the tourist literature, but to the recommendations of a grain of salt.

2. Thoroughly cook means the alloy to the terms of the campaign.

3. At any flotation device, it should be tied.

4. The most important items (glue, axes, maps, etc.) replicated and stored at different locations.

5. Well agree on the objectives and terms of the campaign participants, do not take those on a tight deadlines or a different purpose from the main group. The drop-down party will poison the rest of the campaign.

6. For kayak trolley is useful to do. Where there is a trail, and the truck will travel there.

Literature. Water routes of the USSR. The Asian part. Moskva. FiS.1976.

Source: Wanderer

Some photos of this campaign are placed on the site

Translation: Google

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