The idea of a hike along the upper Lena was born out of the desire of rafting on the river which flows into the lake, and then could be a few days relaxing on the wild coast “glorious sea”, sunbathing and fishing.
“It was smooth on paper, but they forgot about the ravines” – it turned out that the rivers flowing into the lake a lot, but they are either very short or categorical (eg Tompuda) and hard. The only abundant river – Selenga has disappeared because of the high-water and a relatively large population of the coast. In the process of searching for a route in the internet I found an old record of a hike on the upper reaches of the Lena River. It is difficult to understand how the decision was made to choose this route, because it is no less complex in terms of zabroski than others. Possibly played a role the river itself – Lena – one of the great rivers of Siberia! We wanted to go at its source. The route itself is also very interesting – Getting on a boat on Lake Baikal to the Cape of dead people – overcoming the pass Solntsepad – rafting on the Lena River to the village of spillikin (about 250km). It was felt that this would be a trip full of new discoveries and adventures. And wait we are not deceived, turned unforgettable journey!
Getting to the route was hilarious! Half of the group was traveling on a train – 4.5 days from Moscow to Severobaykalsk. The second half of the plane was flying to Irkutsk, then by bus to Olkhon Island, where she spent three days (report here), and finally in a speedboat “Comet” reached Severobaykalsk. Severobaik – city born of BAM, made a good impression. For quality of life here is everything, even a yacht club.
After the successful reunification of the two halves of the team in severobaykalsk we sailed by boat to Cape dead. Here is the central manor Baikal-Lena Reserve and weather station “Solnechnaya.” And here begins the pedestrian route to the source of the river Lena.
Stay on the reserve was worth at the time 400 rubles per person per day. Pay to stay at the head office of the reserve in Irkutsk.
The dead are now at Cape resides just a few people, the workers and the Reserve weather station. And in the 30 years of the last century, life here was in full swing. At this place was a great Buryat village. But even in the collectivization got this “backwater” and destroyed the traditional way of life – the people scattered.
One of the workers explained the origin of the name of the reserve Cape – dead people. According to him, it has nothing to do with the dead or the world beyond the grave. Just cape protects from the wind and waves convenient bay, where bad weather can shelter ships and boats. And the name is derived from the word “deceased” or “calm”.
However, the question of the origin of the name of the cape is still open. For example, there is another explanation: these places considered sacred by indigenous people. Here, on the shore of Lake Baikal, Evenk and Buryat brought their dead and left to be eaten by birds and animals. Since ancient custom orders. Perhaps the Evenki and the Buryats this cape was called something else, but Russian, watching as the dead were brought here by locals called the Cape of Pokoiniki, and later – Pokoiniki.
Cape Pokoiniki considered among the Buryat shamans cult place. Half a kilometer from the weather station is located Buryat hitching post – “serge”. Serge symbolized the “tree of life”, the “world tree”, bringing together three of the world. Deposited on the pole three ring grooves. Upper designed for tying horses supreme gods, the average – for horses ordinary terrestrial people, the bottom – for horses representatives of the underworld. Serge tied with multi-colored pieces of cloth – “Hadak.” It is believed that when the wind stirs the ribbon with prayers written on it, the one who hung up, sends his prayers heaven, even if it is currently busy with other things. The true meaning of this ritual has been lost over the years, and today in such places often stop to a “splash” of alcohol in honor of the nameless spirit terrain.
Cape Nature Pokoiniki pleases the eye with its beauty and diversity. The mountains in this place retreated from the shores of Lake Baikal to 2-3 kilometers. Not very thick larch forest hides under his gentle riot of herbs and flowers, which was fumbling a lot of flying up from under the feet of locusts and other insects.
Baikal works as a huge battery of heat, making the climate is relatively mild on the coast. Winter on Lake Baikal milder and summers are cooler than the surrounding area of Siberia. The difference in air temperature during the day on the lake and in Irkutsk reaches 10.8 degrees Celsius. In winter, about the same degree by the lake is warmer than in Irkutsk.
Particularly pleasing wood beetles of different kinds and colors
One kilometer from the weather station, if you walk along the shore, begins “The Coast of brown bears.” At the beginning of summer in the shallow coastal waters there is a large number of caddis larvae of the insect. They are a great treat for the bears that come out of this for the sake of the forest on the shore of Lake Baikal. Sometimes a ship sailing along the coast saw several feeding in this place bears.
Did not want to leave the Cape of Pokoiniki, but in front of us waiting for the Lena River. So the next day after his arrival, we have tried to fairly divide all the products and equipment between the participants and prepare for a difficult 9-kilometer crossing of the pass Solntsepad. Amount of food that had to move through the pass, horrified.
From the meteorological station in the north-east to the pass Solntsepad there is a trail, about 4 km it turns sharply to the west and is part of the canyon that leads to the pass. This is the beginning of the climb. Here creek flowing through a canyon, selected from the rocks on the surface, and you can get water. In addition, some sort of good people in this place was built a table with benches. We decided to stop at this place and spend the night.
The next day we began the actual conquest of the pass. The rise is not difficult, the trail is well cleared. There are only two sites in length up to 100 meters each, where the elevation angle is 30 degrees. The higher we climbed, the more beautiful views open up to us. And behind was still visible in the foggy haze of Baikal.
The pass was overgrown with cedars and larches. The cedars almost ripe dark blue cones. We certainly do not deny yourself the pleasure they feast on. There is growing medicinal plants – Rhodiola rosea, more quadrupeds as the golden root. It contains substances that stimulate the nervous system, increase stamina, performance and resilience of the human body in adverse effects. Hunters during difficult transitions in the mountains have long been drinking tea, using tea leaves as the dried root of Rhodiola. Is widely used Rhodiola rosea in Oriental medicine, it is called even “Tibetan ginseng.” The plant is listed in the Red Book “Wild species of flora of the USSR in need of protection”
Nature to enjoy the sunshine and warmth. It has been seen as the storm clouds gather on the other side of the Baikal Mountains, but can not for some reason overcome it and rain down into the valley of the Lena River. Until we drifted just thunder. This pleased also because of the fact that the water in the river will be more. In dry years, the water in the upper reaches of the Lena River is small, and we were afraid that the first kilometers of the alloy will have to keep our boats in the wiring.
On the pass there is a danger face with a bear. They are really a lot – sometimes you can see the scratches on trees and scraps of wool. Therefore, it makes more sense to make noise and stay together. Gamekeeper Reserve, accompanying groups of tourists are rare, always with the weapon. One such group we met at the pass. It was a group of Germans retirement age who lived on Cape Pokoiniki in one big tent and this day went to the source of the Lena River through the pass.
The pass is divided into two pronounced steps, separated by a large hollow. By mid-afternoon we reached the highest point of the first stage. Here, surrounded by dwarf pine we had lunch and rested.
What followed was not difficult descent into the valley, where we were greeted by huge cedars. This is a wet spot protected from strong winds, which creates a special microclimate and allows cedars grow to such gigantic proportions. A fabulous place!
After getting up for the second pass stupent begins the descent into the valley of the Lena River. Immediately noticeable changes in vegetation cover. Oppressed listvinnichnaya taiga with an undergrowth of dwarf birch, strikingly different from the lush vegetation of the shores of Lake Baikal. There midges and mosquitoes.
And finally, we face the great Siberian river 15 kilometers from its source. Its width is not more than 10 meters, depth 0.2 – 0.4 m
The next day, preparing our boats and turning the camp, we started the water part of the tour. To our great pleasure of water in the river was enough for almost unimpeded alloy.
After 3 kilometers after the start of the alloy starts a cascade of two waterfalls. After him dangerous obstacles on the river there. Only numerous Shiver and clamps make work actively oars. In some places I had to spend in court wiring.
The first 50 kilometers of the alloy are the most interesting. The river flows in a narrow valley, sometimes cliff looms close to the river, often picturesque stone outcrops. In the picture shown below, the river rests on a massive rock and makes a 180 degree turn. Very rare natural phenomenon.
Around untouched taiga – the kingdom of animals and birds. Once we got to see a bear feeding on the shore. He was so passionate about his occupation, that the first boat that sailed 30 meters away from him even noticed. It is only when the people on the trail going catamaran began hastily to get cameras stood on his hind legs, looked at a couple of seconds unprecedented phenomenon and pulled into the forest.
In transparent to the bottom of the icy water, at first glance there is no fish, but certainly grayling and flax caught trolling an abandoned well. Well, if you’re lucky, you can catch trout and.
In the evening we had fish as in fried form and in the form of soup. But it is especially pleasant to all the national dish of northern peoples – saguday. Goldilocks cut pieces into the pot, sprinkle with salt, pepper and poured a small amount of lemon juice. Placed on top of the yoke. An hour saguday ready!
After 50 km from the start of the alloy valley widens, the mountains away from the river, the flow slows down. Water is significantly more frequent deep pools, clear to the bottom, where you can sometimes see the fish swam lazily.
After 25 – 30 km after the merger of Big and Little Lena valley widens even more, the banks go down, there are wetlands. The river bed is often decomposed into channels, some of them covered rubble. The river winds through strongly.
30 km upstream from the village Chanchur we met on motor boats and a few hours spillikin able to take to the village, where he ended our puteshstviya.
Source: Magic taiga
Translation: Google
