Route traversed:
Irkutsk – Kocherikovo. By Car. ~ 450 km
Kocherikovo – r.Heyrem (southern cordon reserve). 15 km walk. Overnight at the cordon.
r.Heyrem – Cape Ryty . ~ 10 km walk. Overnight in a tent Rytom.
Seroundings gorge on Rytom – Climbing to the top of 1400 m Walk.
Ryty Cape – Cape dead. Powerboat ~ 30 km. 2 nights in a guest house.
Cape Pokoiniki – weather station – the rise of the gorge Solntsepad – exit to the pass into the valley of the river Lena – cabin near lakes not far from Lena. Foot. ~ 15 km. Overnight in the cabin.
Walk along the Lena – climb to the top of 1700 m – back through the gorge at Cape dead. ~ 20 km walk . Overnight in guest house.
The dead Cape – Cape Shartlay . ~ 12 km walk . Overnight at the tent.
Shartlay Cape – Cape Anyutha – Cape Ryty – r.Heyrem. ~ 28 km walk. Overnight at the cordon.
r.Heyrem – Kocherikovo 2 – Kocherikovo 1 – 10 km before reaching the village Onguren. ~ 30 km walk. Next to Onguren ~ 10 km on the tractor. 2 nights in the house of his grandfather Ongurene Egor.
Onguren – Elantsy. School car (UAZ-loaf ) ~ 150 km. Overnight in Elantsev father’s house Alexis (father).
Elantsy – Irkutsk. Hitch ~ 230 km.
Mikhail Dubrovin
Alexey Nikolaev
June 10, 2006
We left at 6:00 am from Irkutsk by car Vlad: easy jeep Suzuki Escudo. Until IFAs road was gorgeous, and then became impassable. But it is here and the start of a beautiful deserted place. Photographed Olkhon Island, adjacent hills, coast, headlands. The further deepened in the Small Sea, the worse the road. Several times takes a strong rain, so the rivers that had to cross, even more descended, and in one place when you move another river water even got to the salon, but nothing happened. We reached the village of Zama. Zama – a few houses and a population of 20 people. 25 kilometers to the village Onguren. I did not expect that such will be the wilds is a large village with a population of more than 500 people. The village has no electricity, no regular public transport to another world. 99 percent of the population – the Buryats. But about Ongurene tell on the way back when we had to live in it a couple of days. After another 25 km Onguren, and we were in the village Kocherikovo 1 (or near), which is also in complete ruin. Here graze sheep and goats. Drive Kocherikovo, we started looking for a place to land, but then the unexpected happened: one of deep potholes the car struck the fuel tank, drip gasoline. Vlad crook (bread, chewing gum, wedge, glue) was able to close up the hole while maintaining full composure and peace of mind that I was very surprised, because being in such a jungle, on a bumpy road with an overflowing rivers, and at the same time with a hole in the tank, it is difficult to be calm. But nothing happened, and we parted. Vlad Girl went back, and we went forward – into the unknown.
Time was about 20:00 and we had to rapidly move to the south cordon reserve, which was 15 kilometers away. First, the road went through the field, which was located on the left of Baikal ridge. Next entered the forest, there had to wear boots, as the river flowed straight on the road and the forest again took to the open space, where the village is located Kocherikovo 2 (or far). Same complete devastation and there is nothing more to say. Here local prompted us that cordon at the foot of the mountain and to stomp him about 4 km. We are glad that a bit left to go, as it was getting dark already, and felt tired. The road came to Lake Baikal, then along the coast under the light of the moon we went to the cordon, which actually turned out to 7-8 km.
There barking dogs came Head of the cordon, we showed him the documents and asked to spend the night. Gritting his soul, he gave us a place in one of the rooms where already asleep one of the employees of the reserve. The room was heavily check point heated and therefore very hot. Misha immediately fell asleep, and I ate a can of corned beef, and also lay down. Despite the fact that very tired, slept badly because stifling heat did not give rest. Morning headache. But, nevertheless, the night passed, and our journey continues.
June 11, 2006
Chief morning (Vladimir ) said that Cape Shartlay go one of the employees of the reserve, and offered us a deal with him, paying him gasoline. Misha went to this man, but he wrung the price of 1000 rubles per person, we naturally refused, and he left without us. Then it turned out that it Lenya, who was transferred to the reserve with kochergatskogo reserve. After Vladimir told us that today or tomorrow with the cape The dead will return and bring Sergei tourists, and that he can throw us, but for now, they say, go on foot in the direction of Cape Ryty he sees you with your boat. We packed up and moved to Cape Ryty. Road passed along the rocky shingle beach on which to under – eyeballs stuffed backpacks to go was very hard.
Walked slowly , a lot of pictures along the way to gather stones . Meanwhile, the weather began to deteriorate . Decided to stop to rest and drink tea . Tea Party really helped us regain the moral and physical strength , and we went on. Ryty was not so far . Finally, our feet stepped on Ryty . At the beginning of the cape is a small annuals and three poplar . Here we rested a bit , and a fine rain , which has long been drizzling , became intensified and a strong wind blew , after which it became very uncomfortable. Cape Grim reality did not inspire any good. Been steadily went to the evening , and the boat still was not. We had to cross the cape along the shore (4-5 km), not to miss the boat. Also ahead of us expected Rita river , which we frighten Vladimir cordon, they say, do not click. By the way, I found a piece of birch bark, which has become for me a sign that all is well, and we will spend the night here not too bad. Rita crossed the river easily, since at the moment it was nebuynoy. Reached the end of the cape, went down in a small gully and a little breath. Misha went ahead to see if you can put up a tent there, but it was not there, went on a big clamp. I had to go a little further inland Rytogo and once there we found more or less the right place for an overnight stay. Stood up. At this point, the rain stopped, it seemed a little evening sky, sunset began. The setting sun lit up the clouds purple color, we all photographed.
Put up a tent, have prepared firewood, cooked food, ate, drank, drank and went to bed. Slept badly, as the night a strong wind blowing, but generally managed to relax. My dream come true one: to visit and spend the night at Cape Rytom.
June 12, 2006
In the morning we got up the question of where to go next. Outlined three options:
1) Send all FIG and go back to the cordon;
2) Go down the shore to Shartlaya;
3) Stay on Rytom and hiking in the mountains.
Chose the third option. Backpacks left on our site and the light went up on the mountain. Top lot of pictures Gorge and Cape. Views are amazing. Climbed one vershinku (1400 m) and here we began to cover the fog. We began to descend. During descent, Misha said motorboat that ran to the south. It probably was Sergei, and we went down at high speed. After descending quickly packed up and moved to the shore waiting for the boat.
At this time, a strong wind blew and it got very cold, and we have already started to doubt whether it was driving Sergei. But finally seemed boat, it was Sergei. Boat landings due to big waves once failed, so I had to go to the end of the cape, and there we are, stripped to the waist, climbed into the cold water, and then a boat. Took breath and went. Despite the wild cold, we admired the beautiful mountain panorama on the beach. Little even take pictures. Along the way, Sergei said that when he was traveling south on the shore, they saw four bears, but, unfortunately, we have not found them already. Thus, reached Cape dead. Sergei us settled in the guest house with a sign “Coast of brown bears”.
Then he invited us to his house, where he met with his wife Natalia. We were treated to tea from different taiga herbs, fed rice with meat seals. Sergey said that the source of Lena go through Ryty now unrealistic, freeze, and offered another option: through the gorge. There’s a trail on which we will be able to reach the Lena, but the truth is not to basics. Said that the pass has cabin, where we can spend the night. At that point we decided to do. Went to sleep.
June 13, 2006
This day we were unloading, resting. Hike planned for tomorrow at Lena.
June 14, 2006
Morning came and went along the shore to the weather station, which is 2 km from our place. The weather station was a small village with houses, baths and other buildings. For weather station went on the trail, which led us to the top of the gorge. Further along the trail we climbed higher and higher. The trail was lost in places, as it is left in the snow, the windbreak formed by avalanches. Walk in the snow was quite dangerous, as it is not always kept present, sometimes legs completely failed, and had to walk on all fours. Saw very thick cedars.
And the higher the climb, the more beautiful the view was getting back to Lake Baikal. Initially, we are very underestimated this path, it was much steeper and longer than we thought. But whatever it was, we got to the top, to pass. And for us it opened a completely different nature – a real tundra: elfin cedar, dwarf shrubs and trees, moss, snow, dullness, wind, cold. Spring had just begun here, in larches and other trees only swollen buds. And there in the distance could be seen Lena – our destination. From the pass we had yet to reach the winter quarters that were around a small lake. And we moved to it. In fact, there was a trail, but we could not find her and went straight through the bushes, and an hour later were in winter quarters.
The cabin was very stout: slate roof, inside the oven, like a burzhujku, this stove opening a niche for pot that is placed directly on the bottom of it and open fire heats, with bunks for 6 people, 2 tables, windows covered with polyethylene. Hung on nails on top of food and sleeping bag, under the bunks felled wood. Next to the cabin fireplace with convenient tools for cooking over a campfire write. 100 meters from the house could see a toilet. We dropped the backpacks and went right to harvest wood, cut down dry larch, drag it into place, and began to prepare the food. After such a difficult transition was pleasantly quiet meal and drink tea. Evening and talked to lay down to sleep. Sleep on the boards was tough, but not used to. The next day, planned to go to Lena, climb one of the peaks (1,700 m) to take pictures from a height of a neighborhood, and go back to Cape Pokoiniki.
June 15, 2006
Ate in the morning, packed up and put it in the cabin and went to Lena. Came to the river, washed, drank and went for a walk a little downstream. Lena at this time of year was wide (15m) and stormy. The trail that leads up several times crosses the river and wade extremely difficult, if not impossible. Lena at the source, somewhere above the snowy mountains and even dangerous to go there because of the constant cold mist. Thus, another true my dream: to see Lena, sorry just got to the roots. As they walked down the clearing saw beautiful flowers: snowdrops and bluebells and small progalinki bright green red bilberry also strongly distinguished from the general pattern of gray.
After a walk back in backpacks and already acquainted with the trail in 20 minutes came to pass. Left them there and rushed upstairs to the top. As they walked up the charm experienced crossing abies. Along the way, also came across a lot of snow fields, and since no streams along the way did not occur, then the snow came in very handy: we stuffed it in a bottle and drown the sun. 2 hours later the top was taken. There was some construction of wood and stones, apparently indicating the top. From the mountain opened a magnificent view of Lake Baikal. It has been seen all: the weather station Pokoiniki Cape, Cape Shartlay, Ushkaniy island Holy Nose Peninsula, capes Solontsova and so on. And on the other side of the grandiose mountain panorama and the valley of the river Lena.
Time we did not have much, so after a quick photo session we started to descend. Fled down for 40 minutes. On the pass took backpacks and after 3.5 hours we were already descending on Cape Pokoiniki.
June 16, 2006
In the morning we thought Sergei toss us on the boat to the south. He arrived in the morning and said that in 40 minutes will go to Shartlay to work and can take us. We quickly ate together, but in the end it turns out that he was going south instead of the north, and will not be back for dinner. We waited for him to lunch, then I can see, there are people on the spit: 3 women and 1 man. It turned out to tourists from Moscow, they disembarked from the ship nearby and agreed with Sergey of “cultural” program. We have thus been sent. Like, I once more you do, I have tourists who pay me money, and it supposedly is our bread. And about 2000, we paid the reserve administration, he said that he of neither hot nor cold, nor any award of waste. And to the south of the cordon, they say, go on foot, and it is nothing less than 40 km on the rocks. Well, nothing to do. Time was already 19:30, we quickly packed backpacks and moved south to Cape Shartlay. Us to link them dog. We thought that it spends little and then come back, but no, it is far from us is gone. Then we hear rustled boat, see Sergei realized missing dog. And at the same time the dog barking burst: front we saw bears, bear and two cubs. Thank God that the world was a dog and bears quickly hurried retreat.
Just then drove Sergei, yelled at us that we supposedly to blame for us to link them a dog, and it is in the forest and can shoot. We certainly recognize the blame, but where were the hosts at this time? We then have the increased clamp, which bypasses the trail from the top, but just at the place where the left bears with cubs, so we walked and talked loudly. By nightfall reached Shartlaya. There’s a cabin with fellow Lenya appeared in the house he would not let us, they say, there is no place, and we had to put up a tent nearby. When we built a fire, and ran Lenya became brehat of fire that supposedly dissolved in the wrong place, although the fire was divorced on the rocks. Then it turned out that they were there on solonetzes hunted red deer, and it is – in the reserve! We spent the night well, photographed the moon and fire.
June 17, 2006
Today we had to pass on the stones of the path to the south cordon Shartlaya (28-30 km). Short cape Anyutha we met clamp that treated only by water.
I had to strip down to their underwear, dressing slates and climb into the cold water. But before that, we met a clamp -through cave in which even he can live. And yet passed nip boat pulled Leon, said that so go slowly, and that we did not burn fires. Attention to it we did not pay any and calm myself moved on. Gone Anyuthu, reached on Rytogo. There on our site, we had a little rest , boiled tea, snack and moved on. Ryty we decided to cross through, but there it was, the river overflowed Rita very much and we cross it could only Baikal itself.
By the evening very tired crawled to the south of the cordon. There we were in for a pleasant surprise. One Dzyadok which was Lenya on saline lands, you see, our position was filled, invited me, fed and watered tea soup, said they were stoked bath today, and although it has cooled, wash it still is quite real, and that we done before bedtime. Dzyadok was the first normal person that we met in this reserve.
June 18, 2006
In the morning the cordon ship approached. Misha asked us to throw the place where transportation goes, but the captain hesitated like a girl, they say he still does not know where he was going to the north or to the south, and in the end they sailed without us, and to the south.
Do nothing, and gathered dead legs moved on foot towards Kocherikovo. Reached near Kocherikovo, then – to far. At the far leg is not going and we were hoping that there is at least someone has the trucks, and you can arrange access to Onguren (25 km), but the village was technically empty, and then we came moral crisis, wanted to scream, so as to go practically no longer could. Sat around the fence, drank water with dried fruit and nuts, a little come to, got up and strolled toward Onguren. Crook passed 15 miles, reached the gorge that led to Baikal and sat there once again break. Then hear tractor rides, where he had come one, God knows, but nevertheless we took him. Tractor driving with a sawmill and drove poltelegi firewood and poltelegi Buryats, mostly children. The Buryats broke Friendship saw, and they were forced to return earlier. So we met with Yegor grandfather, elderly Buryat. While riding on the tractor with him a lot of talking.
Unfortunately, it turned out that the machine towards Elantsev either today or tomorrow was not expected, also learned that there is a hotel in Ongurene. The weather began to deteriorate, and the tent was put no reason. But the hotel we break off, as the administration was in the Buryat holiday at Zama and they will return very late. Yegor invited us to drink tea, and then proposed and B, we naturally agreed. Special thanks to his large family. Children from 6-12 years, we counted seven people. Children are extremely active, crafty, all especially interested in the camera and photographs. We showed them our pictures, and then began to photograph them. Yet it was terribly interested in our gear, had all show and tell. Particularly stood 12 – year-old Boris. Children not slept late and did not keep us awake, but then calmed down and went to sleep.
June 19, 2006
Slept well, ate in the morning and went to look for the administration to ask is not whether they will go today in Elantsy machine. It turned out – no. After went to school, there turned out that tomorrow at 16 o’clock will UAZ school. We agreed that we would take. Thus, we had the whole day even in Ongurene cuckoo. Miss, however, was not necessary, Boris us twitched through the village, went to the store and bought a bottle of beer. Passed by mail, with a very interesting schedule: 10:00-15:00, 13:00-14:00 lunch. With the mail could be sent a telegram which they transmit over the radio, but the post was closed.
Another went to the monument to Soviet laxity – steam engines, which called something different and will not work. This metal unit, it is unclear what was imported here, and it is not clear what is intended. Today Ongurene prom in 11 – graders, so the whole village was preparing for this event. Issue them – 13 people. Egor daughter graduated from high school, so he killed for the occasion ram. School Ongurene very soundly, new. Taught all subjects, including science. Electricity in the village, but there are local substation operating on diesel, and as diesel fuel – the deficit, the light given only 30 minutes in the evening. Later in the afternoon met with local profligate, which had to drink. Due to this we have as their own, the more that among them was a driver who had tomorrow to take us. While sitting at the table, Mike found himself interlocutor on military and historical topics, I’m bored. Hours to 12 nights only came to Yegor.
June 20, 2006
Morning revealed that Yegor birthday tomorrow, and we made him presents Misha Misha – thermo I – lantern. Yegor very happy. Treated us tarasun, clean soft drink that chases milk. A little later it turned out that the driver injured his hand and a trip in question. We went to the house where sat yesterday, but already there in the morning shodnyak. Driver (Victor) said that the car will go on anyway, and if he did not lead, the understudy. Once again had to put down in front of them, then went to the place where supposedly were buried soldiers and officers Kolchak’s forces, which was passed through Onguren. Already nearing 4 hours, so we went to Yegor, packed up a little with him sat on the track poburhanili. Went to the post, which would have to go machine. At 16:00 sat down and finally set off to the south. Up to 7 hours Elantsev went with stops. At 11 pm we landed in Elantsev we stood for 40 minutes on the road hoping to catch a ride into town, but nothing happened.
Yes there is a silver lining, met with his father Alexei, he took us in for the night at home. Father – a man progressive, modern, develops computer, makes repairs in the house. Thank him for the night. Morning at 7 am out on the road, hoping to get away for marshtrutke or bus, but then pulled up and building bus took us. But the truth is we thought that he would go to the city, but it was on the scene in 20 kilometers from Elantsev, where we were dropped off near some village. In this village we cuckoo over an hour trying to catch the car, but in the end we were lucky and stayed in a small van, took us to the city.
Driver’s name is Ivan, he and his wife went to Olkhon, where summer is constantly going. Left us their coordinates. Per trip even took money asked only pictures. So we got to Irkutsk. Ivan drove to the top Lisihi where they live, Misha came a little earlier, but I was in the city last miniperehod home. Home I met my beloved family: his wife Olga and son Jack. Journey to this end.
Source: Angara.Net
Translation: Google
