The scale and distances apply not make much sense: the Lena River tenth in the world in length and eighth – under the charge. One glance at the map is enough to appreciate its size and power. The passage of this path we took myself and a half months.
On the main difficulty is to say at once: we knew that motorboats go the distance is not easy, but especially not added confidence thoughts about choosing powertrains. The experience of our travels in the Far East and the Far North of the country suggests that the fuel for the planned expedition should be taken along. About seven tons of …
Then began the lengthy negotiations, the search for information comparing models, correspondence with real users of different engine models. As a result, three months before the start of our three boats we chose motors Tohatsu – brand new four-stroke machines, rulers in 2014. They were supposed to go on sale in May, official, virtually the day of launch of our group.
What influenced our choices? Again, operating experience. In August 2013, we used a two-stroke three weeks “tag” of the manufacturer of the expedition on the river Aldan. There also had to evaluate the ruggedness and durability of the engine, particularly in terms of fuel consumption of unknown origin and quality. And this time it was gasoline and cause the most doubt.
In the first third of the route, in the Irkutsk region, a lot of gas stations, locals move actively, so the quality of fuel, on average, we are satisfied. Further, from the Vitim to Yakutsk, the situation does not look rosy. However, the longest section without filling stations began after Yakutsk. Or rather, he was drawn by Zhigansk to Tiksi, nearly 800 km.
We err as possible. Pitched route on the steps of the gas station to gas station, got in touch with the locals in large settlements, the phone number and geographical coordinates of filling stations, enlisted the support of local authorities.
However, the main question – whether the motors will stand a distance – remained unanswered. Behind him we went to Tiksi, starting from Irkutsk May 9, 2014.
All three boats, we have chosen for the route, descended from the slipway in St Petersburg. The smallest in the caravan became RIB Skyboat SB 460R, it put the engine capacity of 40 forces. “Middling” went Aluminum Berkut L-DC, under the most powerful, shestidesyatisilnym Tohatsu. Flagship chosen RIB “TehSudProm”, which is specially for this expedition gave the name of the plant SKYLARK. He went to the motor 50 “horses”.
Of course, the boat passed finishing on factory stocks. Something to do at our request, something changed manufacturers on their own initiative. Enumerate all makes no sense, but at this stage we felt that the expedition invisibly involved dozens of people: employees of partner companies, from low-level to management, learning about our plan, interacted with us, regardless of personal interests. Perhaps the most accurate preparation of the final period can be characterized by the phrase “call at any time.”
Delivery of the new engines from Japan, loading in St. Petersburg, transporting them along with boats in Irkutsk, unloading and processing of documents – everything went exactly as planned. The specialists of “Sumeko” – the official distributor in Russia Tohatsu – gave us a comprehensive guide to the operation and phone numbers for emergency consultations. And the band went into the unknown …
Theoretically, we knew it would be difficult. In practice, it turned out a little differently. That is, sometimes it is not as known. And in some places – even beyond understanding. So, in the village of Sinskaya that housed the strategically important for us to the gas station, we were not able to approach the shore. It turned out the locals go to Lena on their boats only in the largest water. All the rest of the channels silt and sand zamyty and dredgers now Sinskaya not come. The village on the shore of a huge river – cut off from it.
Another interesting detail: in the upper reaches of Zhigalovo to Ust-Kut, the Lena River is considered navigable, and on the banks set target. However, to go on them – suicide. Fairway has changed more than once, long ago stopped shipping as unnecessary, dredging for many years are not conducted.
Another paradox: at some gas station we were denied service, on the grounds that we were using plastic containers. Arguments that are specialized fuel tanks, labeled and certified by the manufacturer in Russia, the result is not allowed. Because of this, twice had to look for alternative refueling.
Breeze, in the opinion of an outside observer, the confusion in the names of almost ended the collapse of travel: in the most desolate part of the route, between Zhigansky and Tiksi, by prior arrangement, we advance abandoned petrol from Yakutsk, in the village of Cictyax.
And we asked to deliver it to the village Kyusyur that at 190 km downstream of Lena. Upon arrival at the Cictyax, the group spent shooting on memory, mingle with the locals and almost “dry” tanks went to Kyusyur. We knew that in extreme cases, can even rafted before refueling point. Now imagine our disappointment …
Lost almost a week, waiting for parcels with spare screws in Olekminsk. Initially, it came on time, but in the package was not our cargo. Someone in the transport company overlooked, confusing a couple of words on the form. Trifle, which cost us dearly, became a serious lesson. After Olekminsk, we all learned: everything you need to service the equipment, you should take with you, to the maximum.
Any unreported change in routes high autonomy leads to a waste of time or money. Sometimes seem extremely high material costs – for example, gasoline for 150 rubles per liter – but in the end, time is still more expensive. Always.
Now, recalling the incredible movement and a half months on the Lena, I want to write a great book endless. List each roll on the housing kotoromtreschali our boats; count each log, each floe, every stone that “hunting” for our motors; draw a heavy orange haze of forest fires, which disappeared bright northern sun; fly again on the crest of a two-meter waves and crumble down; convey suspense that “right now all”. Alarm did not come true. Expedition group “Razbushlat” came to the island at the mouth of the Lena Post on schedule, completing the passage of the river on June 8. Four days, breaking even and a half thousand kilometers, the caravan finally finished in Yakutsk, at 8 am local time.
How was the distance of the boat
At all stages of the journey of the court proved to be excellent. Of course, the dimension speaks for itself: the most comfortable, due to the huge size and the two-piece canopy, appeared RIB SKYLARK. His own and loads more all. However, the “Golden Eagle” took almost as much cargo, but he got more on the shoals. For the metal we have experienced less than plastic, and it was always the first, paying for all of our navigation errors. RIB Skyboat, in addition to what was going on equal terms with “large”, traveling by boat used for rapid movements during stops and goes into the small tributaries.
How did motors
They passed – and you can finish this. But if you do not hesitate to emotions, we must admit that a complex mixture of surprise and delight does not leave me until now.
In Kyusyur, miraculously, the locals managed to persuade us to sell for some crazy money hundred liters of gasoline from emergency reserves. We went down into the pit with canisters abandoned village freezer to the waist of the flooded water. In the water, swam dvuhsotlitrovye rusty barrels. A chisel and a hammer, sparks, the owner opened one of the containers. By the light of lanterns poured out of the barrel something odorless. On the beach, the sun, murky “something” turned pale red color, as unfiltered beer …
We have returned to the gasoline and would require money back. Required. But, somewhere in another life. A Kyusyur life there was only one. And benzene was only one. No options.
However, at this moment with us stopped a tractor trailer which Aborigines brought a barrel for refueling his boat. They hung on the transom – do not believe it – 15-hp two-stroke Tohatsu. From the barrel into the tank before our eyes, they began to pour something brown. They looked like petrol oil diluted with kerosene. And then we realized – the options are, and our version is not the worst.
Results
We were saving motors and boats, as they could. But, in such a complicated route to a record distance of the definition of “cherished” becomes quite arbitrary. Technical means were subjected to the most severe tests on a number of objective reasons. Simply put: we squeezed the most from them, exploiting at the limit of. Limit is reached. Iron, plastic, and people were equally tenacious. Hence, we can move on.
Author Sergey Shinkarev, photo Arthur Lautenschläger.
Source: magazine “Power & Sail Boats”
Sergei Shinkareva film about an expedition to one of the largest rivers in the world for motor boats. More than 6500 km was proydёno per month.
TehSudProm boat RIB R570S in the expedition “Lena 2014”.
Translation: Google