Committed group of travelers pass (with one overnight stay in the canyon) River gorge Rita (Ryty) from Cape Rytogo on Lake Baikal to the source of the Lena River. July 16, 2007 they opened the source of the Lena River, which is likely the main river and increases the length of about 8-10 kilometers from the traditional calculus.
Polevanov Vladimir Pavlovich – team leader, academician, doctor of geological-mineralogical sciences, former Minister of Property Relations, Deputy Prime Minister of Russia, the former Governor of the Amur Region.
Podryabinnikov Andrei V. – retired colonel.
Eugene E. Lyubimov – master of sports legend skiing at Mt.
Sivyakov Valentin Viktorovich – geologist , entrepreneur.
Veryuzhsky Nikolai – Officer rescue services Irkutsk region.
Butakov Erastus Y. – this writer and others (author of “Around Baikal in 73 days”, “CCO”, “Knocked Up”, “Boulevard Postyshev”, “Eleven”).
Before (11-12 July), we made a “test” rise on the river to the waterfall Molokon “Glass Tape”. The text is often referred to this event. In the book it is described as a separate chapter.
Chapter Two (main): Rita and Lena
And in the morning they woke up. They woke up sick. And not because he had a drink – they do not drink much, but were on Molokonu, they loaded up their muscles a lot. Muscles ached and ached. And still ached those who did not go on Molokonu – these ached and ached, because drunk. In short, in the morning all was bad. And then wise Vladimir Pavlovich took, as he himself says, “ingenious solution”: “We are going to Kotelnikovsky in hot springs, health is improving!” And the ship went where he was told! (“Paws grabastaya” …)
You were on Kotelnikovo? If not, I ‘ll tell you.
In short, right near the shore in the gravel pit dug. You a thousand times to go past her, but did not realize that it is the healing power – muddy water, waves Baikal it sometimes overflowed stinks something, and all that. But she – water – hot there and therapeutic, really. Next, of course, built some resort: renovation, fence, tractor. It is said that he “Luzhkov”. Not worth much to believe – here everything “Pugachihino” then “Luzhkov”, then “Shoigu”. Not in this case. The point source. Overwhelm us there, and the water there is really hot. And if your feet in the mud, “stretch”, so there is generally – boiling water.
We lie about twenty minutes, someone even drank a beer (I did it to drink, smoke did not want after those loads that stretched on Molokone). And then the ship.
Alekseevich fire fried mushrooms, Andreevich – fish. Ate, drank … and personally I – went to sleep. Passed out. Pulling back, I remember vaguely: looked out the window – waves, coast somewhere ” gone”, the engine rumbles, all in a shroud of some sort. I’m tired. Forces were drawn. And all day, almost overslept. Pavlovich, however, asked for my book and took it, nothing to do, read on. And I – shall devour, and sleep. I wake up and see how the wind sways the ship. Scared, pray, have a look at the long-familiar places with binoculars and sleep again. So until the evening, until they came to Cape dead. Long sought to moor (wind prevented), and then shouted Naleykina said that Care Cape – he – on his motorcycle, where instead of the cradle box fish, and we – on the “Frigate” for Cape. There met.
– Good evening! – Naleykin was dressed in uniform with a badge.
– Hello, Anatoly ! – Andreich our captain Naleykina knew a long time ago.
Naleykin boots thundering on the iron ladder.
– Deal with the pass – I asked Vladimir Pavlovich.
So I went to investigate. We sat in the cockpit the captain. Anatoly Naleykin was with his wife Alena.
Drunk Sasha mechanic, which today – Friday the thirteenth – had a birthday, gave a giggling Alain apple, candy and something else. (Has the right!)
Naleykin important sat down and read our pass.
– Sign here , please – I asked him, looking like something there Sanya says Alain.
I remember this woman, when she was nineteen or twenty years. She “matured” but face remained the same – as if out of the window. I smiled involuntarily.
I also learned Naleykin (and my name is on the pass), but so far nothing.
He signed in the pass and began to tell me that there’s a lot of bears (sixteen pieces davicha he counted on a glade), and one – three year olds, generally insolent – Poles drove onto the roof! Those pictures of him… Not afraid of anything, only the bones of his chainsaw and can scare. Necessary permission to shoot in Moscow to ask – as if there was trouble. There, you hear dogs barking? It was he there shastaet.
Andreevich then invited all to drink for the meeting. I refused, I went to sleep, thanking for the invitation to join (I did not want to drink – on Molokone overloaded!)
– This is a book you wrote?
– Asked me Naleykin when I was leaving the cabin.
– Ya
– And I see a familiar face. I read.
– I know
– I said, and stopped. But nothing more came.
– Goodnight
– I wished.
– See you later.
– Maybe? …
– Naleykin nodded at the bottle.
– No, thank you. I – sleep. Tomorrow will be a difficult day – on Ryty go.
– On Ryty ?
– In the gorge.
– Ah! Trapeznikov last time there led schoolchildren.
– In what sense?
– Well, schoolchildren. After school. He was always someone leads. Last time – students. Put them on a ship, and the – back.
– Through Gorge Rita?
– Yes. Through the gorge. And what?
– So there is, write, people did not go.
– Went , Trapeznikov even then spent two priests when they chapel consecrated on source Lena. Trapeznikov always goes there.
– That is, it is passable?
– Of course.
– And why nobody knows anything?
– Who needs to know?
– I do not know. In the books they write – aliens, bears and all that.
– I do not know – did not go.Naleykin spoiled the mood.
– So, we – not the first.
– The meal always goes.
– Clearly, – I held out my hand. – Thanks for the information. I – sleep. Anatoly crooked smile and wished me good night.
Going into the cabin to Pavlovich with companions , I told her about Trapeznikova . This information is all a bit upset . But …
But still go – we officially announced! And if, and who went about everywhere in the world so anyone anywhere walked. (Although, of course, sorry that we are not the first !) We’ll see! (So reasoned Pavlovich).
Each of us , of course, nervous when we approached the Cape Rytomu . In the past year , cost us to step on this cape , we were ” greeted ” with a bear cub . Well, that’s not the main thing. Why not just write about this cape , and even more so about the gorge. We boys literate , able to read and there : aliens poltrgeyst , ball lightning , St. Elmo’s fire , a huge killer bees , perfume, base UFO -eating bears , radiation, poisonous snakes or worms , sharply rising water levels and flooding almost all V- shaped space , and all sorts of other troubles , which no one can escape , no matter how hard you try, and that whoever did not go into the gorge , he left to live a maximum of a year (assuming that he did live there choose) ! All this together for us, small nesmyshlenok who suddenly took a chance to pass a gorge , without consulting with the ” all-knowing ” shamans – PIPE ! What Trapeznikov went – and it can also zamanuha – who knows? We were nervous . And that’s why ! …
– Che stinks!
Sanya mechanic – ran!
All the smoke, toilet and shower – in a couple of engine running in a strange, buzzing – Oil drives! Troubleshoot.
Wind. Ship shakes, although the sky is cloudless! Ship shakes – stick nowhere. Alluvial fan than, in essence, is the Cape Ryty not end on waste, water on the mirror. There, under the water immediately seventy feet deep, and then more and more, to eight, so that the cone, even on top of a huge and under water – it is not a cone – it’s a pile of several hundred meters! What force “spit” from the gorge this incredibly vast array of stone and sand mixture to get the Cape Ryty. Where to approach? No more or less suitable location. Wind and waves will put the ship or stones incised with his bottom. Well, somehow, for a few minutes to approach, so we jumped off, and then go on Anyuthu, sucks on until the wind dies down. Wait for us two days here on Rytom. If you do not leave for two days – then gone. Two days later – on Shartlay go, we go down there, if you go through. But wait a couple of days here – who knows what!
– Got it?
– Of course!
Approached. Gathered out. Pi .. yks! Gangway vomited, and he fell into the water! How it all could snatch – specifically want, not weed. And then, like a toy – cotton, and his “licking” wave.- Begins – Cape Ryty!
Hour romping to catch, lift (heavy bastard !) And screw into place the ladder. Sasha Mechanical bathed after her birthday, pulling and tying fallen this fucking ship item – do not need to detox. Frozen! Zadubela! Wet as tsutsik.
Barely set it in place, and the waves pounded the ship on the coastal boulders. Had to “eject” on a rubber dinghy.
Going to Cape Ryty I brought along someone’s old slippers. Test campaign showed that without a change of footwear is nothing to do in the Taiga. Well, no tjazhelennye same sneakers I drag? Picked slippers – Right, right. The last time I knit beanie took (in the past year. Returned). Now – slippers, everything as it should be!
Cost me with a carbine (in the third race) to jump into the boat – there huntsman! Here is their something who asked to appear? I weapon we reserve will see – as will squeal!
Value appear rangers, screeching started already: “Who said? Where’s your permit? These can not stick – smoking, what is this painting? Who is this signed? What right had you not noted in the reserve berth What is it?!” La- la-la, fa -fa -fa, du – du – du… We tell them that were noted already at Naleykina. And they’re still in any why yes why, who allowed, but not necessary!…
And I have all this time on the bottom carbine is a rubber boat in the water (wave swept across the board), and I do not get it to the huntsman did not chikanulis. But you can not sit in the same general boat and climbs – is suspicious, especially when you consider that the waves hit the boat on the shore, and for some reason people sit there stubbornly. Had to contrive to jump, hiding the body and backpacks carbine. Work – have not noticed. But the huntsman did not stop whining and all they demanded something to explain why they have to burn gasoline State, catching us?
Eugene Efimovich, even though he was a man romantic and restrained, but in this situation … It reminded me of the movie “Lord of the Rings”, the first part. There’s an old keeper rings (some Bilbo, I think) gave “his treasure” young Frodo, and suddenly, for a moment he changed his mind! His face instantly took a beast, terrible expression … but a moment later he was again “good man”. Also happened to our dear “Cousteau”!
– You Th razorolsya something , Major ? You are normal can not ask ? You for whom we have received ?
– You do not check! – Major puffed out his chest (and why, in fact, Major?). – I burn gasoline State, here I go by sea…
– Heard already! – Eugene E. interrupted. – Are you on what service, Major? You’re in the public service! What do you still need something to burn gasoline? It’s your job! Ezdi and verify! Only human beings! Needless to let the foam – we do not boys, we all paid for and have permission! Do not believe me – climb aboard, verify! And do not yell at us! Got it! And then, no, God forbid, we ZAOr! Are there any questions? (Some expressions and phrases, allotted to them in the direction of checking, just in case I missed it – the community can not endorse).
“Major ” is not found the answer, turned the boat and headed for the ship. Eugene Efimovicha face again took the expression “good man”. Posharahavshis the deck with polepetav Andreyitch, rangers got back into the boat and went about their business ( shoot your network , as it turned out with binoculars).
– That’s what they state gasoline burn! – ITS chuckled.
And I had to disassemble and clean the rifle in the field, which flooded, that is, more time to waste, instead move faster – not rubber same day!
“Field” ramrod, or rather, rope pigtailed horsehair did not pass along the bore. Well, stuck, you bastard! Apparently, it was necessary first pigtail butter to grease. I wrapped the rope on the edge picked up a stick and tried to pull all the same. With great difficulty I managed over time.
– Ugh, you! Handed! – I wiped the sweat from his forehead and looked up.All holding our breath and looked at me.
– That’s more to do here, – said Eugene Efimovich.
– We’re on Rytom. And if stuck?
– Do not be stuck!
– Well, do not tell. We – on Rytom. And stay without weapons… Do not do more than that. Good?
– Good. I will not.
I put the cleaning supplies in a backpack, checked again carbine – all ready.
– Cleaned?
– Cleaned.
– Here you go.
I was handed a plastic cup of vodka.
Standing on the right knee ( as read), I squirted vodka spirits going and going. All have long been ready and just waiting for me – all gone.
“To begin with – to the rolling pin before the gorge without showing carbine – there understand – the main thing is to get away from the rangers quickly. And in the gorge, they will not go for us – frightened. ‘s Go! – Vladimir Pavlovich defined task. – Valentine! Forward!”.
Hot, stuffy, uncomfortable to walk on stones vyvorochennye but hard going, not stopping. Gone kilometer and a half or two, camp under the yellow rock to the right of the entrance to the gorge is rising from a treeless hillside. No we are not catching up (probably catch a large protected waters), to relax and to estimate the map and GPS where we are, what can we expect next, and water to drink greedily with pleasure!
From the coast to the rolling pin white, as was said, go about a kilometer and a half to two, that is, twenty to thirty minutes. And the further we move away from the coast, the greater was the distance between us and the rangers, and the likelihood that they will see the rifle even with binoculars, decreased, the more we disturb other thoughts. It was getting hot. Around the chirping crickets, and underfoot in dry grass crunched small stones. White edelweiss we tried not to push their own steps, but they were very much and it was not always possible. The road around the headland is far from ideal, all potholed and small, grassy bulk stones – you need to look at his feet. However, the entrance to the gorge approaching. And here came the very disturbing thought. What awaits us there? Personally, I know (or rather, heard from “eyewitnesses” and read) that there we certainly meet different kinds of trouble, and even worse. Not for nothing that the Cape we so reluctant to let the shore, considering all the damage and rangers – so it is, I suppose, flowers, compared with what will happen next. Last year, somewhere in this place we met about a bear with cubs. This year, they say, bears more! What else? I walked over and stared at the grass at his feet – the first thing that can be – snakes and ticks. This is ” tired .” Then inadvertently remembered all the stories: huge bee with “fatal” bite, fireballs, radiation. But as a man of experience, as I myself believed in this business pioneers, I clearly understood that the biggest trouble is tucked leg. Sprained foot – how to choose? And God forbid! … (I will not even think to not jinx it!). Bears – that’s a real danger – yes! In the narrow passage of the gorge (and we have done a lot Gorge map) meeting with clubfoot bodes no good. I recall that in Bargusinsky reserve, bears, do not yell much, especially out on the voice to see what’s for morons “name for dinner?” It is likely the same thing – they are not frightening, just people do not go to the gorge, moreover, there is also the reserve. They said back in ninety-two shepherds that all cows and horses, which went into the gorge, did not return – backwater. And the ones we ‘ve seen rotting on the shore in that distant time – is not proof of their words? Bears, oh, these bears? What if pops? What to do? – Shoot! Pops up, without further ado I’ll shoot – do not care that the reserve! After a look. And who will go to the Gorge to see where I shot a bear or not? So, since much drag carbine, so I’ll shoot – eh nothing on me guys hope? Just not now, not once, but then the guns huntsman exactly come running, and then they prove that you “did not want to”. And “fangs” Yefimich does not help here . Here too Rytogo metamorphosis: the kindest person can become … well, that we are with him in the same team! Something I do it all “Stalker” recalls: I grass crunching underfoot hear, and how the huntsman fish pulled from the networks, and the birds do not sing, and as a team we also have a loser writer looking for new sensations and instead of nuts with gauze vyazochkoy we Valyuha with a backpack and a cigarette forward like clockwork “flies”. All, like in the movies. Myself welling? Possible. But still, trying to joke. When I was scared or uncomfortable – I always try to make jokes. Do not cry yet? That’s it. And talking to myself. Too – here. Good for you! But with bears, nevertheless, keep your eyes open! And the aliens? Aliens – it’s even fun! That’s really who I could not care less – so it’s aliens. Very curious if that. See what it is, if there will be. Especially during nights will all eyes and ears look to see them. Yes, even if a plate of small notch – but the fact still can not get. Million people on Baikal “seen” plates, and I – no! Do not order! Well, everything – good Shuga! It seems to come rolling pin, a cigarette now, orient the map, as my comrades like using GPS, and ragged on the road into the cesspool! Break! And no other choice – only forward, then another will tell their grandchildren, and that it was! All – quietly Pervoprohodimets, everything will be okay, not the Bucs.
Sweat flowing stream – do not lie, we really squeezed shirts! Alekseevichu sucks (it yesterday so vain actively celebrate the birthday of mechanics!), And a bag of his most difficult. But he goes, and groans, if you ask: “How are you, Alexeitch?” Replies: “Niche – Nitsche, normal -normal”. But the same can be seen that soon his heart clicks 🙁 Ugh, ugh, ugh – what am I saying? – Just not enough! Fuck you all drank Alexeitch? How would save itself did not have a lifeguard. Pah-pah-pah, even times, do not think about the bad.)
As it is written in the magazines “GEO” (March 2007 page 170), I – I worry. Of course, worried! Alexeitch all behind, and it is possible that in every bush a bear – they’re hiding from the heat and roll, going out with their women, and kids. Alekseich reducing the distance, popret ahead, disturb them, and then!… I ‘m alert, look, looking through the eyes of the old man’s white panama between fluttering leaves, and in the open, “was playing” snap! I look closely and vperedistoyaschego bushes – something as should happen – Cape Ryty it, or what? Here – not spoil! We go into the gorge!
I pitied the old man at the heart of his sin. We are all waiting for him, wasting time. And only after it became clear that: “He brought two bottles of beer took!” – Told us on the ship after returning. Ah! Clear! That’s what caused the gaps! So, citizens, tourists, if you find in the bushes at the beginning of the river gorge Rita bottle or two of beer – do not judge us severely – we do not have noticed, I confess! A really shitty very Alexeitch was and correctly he did that for a couple of bottles opohmelki took – it is something your body knows. Would not it be his beer, then what? Normal -normal, Alexeitch! Who will judge you – you are the same. And you – you have the right.
When you look on the sea side of the gorge Cape Ryty – go there do not want to. Especially in bad weather or if a storm if you look at the gorge. Cliff faces, razor-sharp, clear vertical and tall, as the darling of the trap, the trap door as wary! It seems they are just waiting for the traveler absurd to capture him, and that he disappeared forever in this terrible place, in this trap! But!
But as soon as we go through these “spring the trap” in the form of two opposing cliffs, rock formations, which shamans call brothers and Azme Alme (so it seems ?), We hit the “Bois de Boulogne”! Poplar, ancient relic poplar grown in the valley! Birds sang discordant. Rita river is shallow, clean and brisk, gurgled, washing the walls of the canyon, the sun sparkled in its waters and the young foliage of trees. There was no mighty and fearsome pines, larches oppressed and all that that fills the other gorge, which is an integral part of the Siberian taiga, and that was supposed to be here, but here it was not. (All of these “endemic” Siberia grew only high on the slopes of the mountains, closer to the glaciers, but not in raspadkah). Bright day, joyful sunbeams on smooth walls clamps, Insanely blue sky – the sun, summer, heat, rush, great mood and beautiful scenery! Here should not be allowed tourists – all dirtied, shamans right – sacred, an unusual place – do not let anyone here, and burn my book, that nobody Poper look what I just nakalyakal! And again, do not believe that the warriors of fighting for possession on Rytom gorge as a hunting ground to get here sable and squirrel – from sable and squirrel in poplars?
And in general, I think that everyone who wrote anything about Ryty and claimed that he went to the gorge – disingenuous. I have never seen a stitch of poplar – and not notice them, do not pay attention to it – impossible! Poplars, aspens young … and stones stuck on the level of human growth in their branches and trunks between. Flows, so there really are violent! But poplar not notice – is not possible! And it surprises those who sees it!
After Molokona path along the river Rita seems to me not difficult. Of course, the canyon becomes narrower, and the path becomes steeper and steeper, and we sometimes have to climb over huge rocks and river jump back and forth and forth across kurumniku. Sometimes we go out on the slopes and go on animal trail – different ways of overcoming space. But “brilliant solution” Palycha banish us first for another river to “warm up” the desired muscle group, and after “throwing” in the Gorge Rita was impossible as very useful. Academician – what can I say! Yes! After Molokona (zadolbali this Molokon !) Go here is not difficult (yet not difficult). But this “now” will last until the evening there?
All along the way, I did not smoke – I did not even want to smoke. All along the way I was looking for footprints or anything that would have indicated that there were people before us – and did not find! Neither goby or bottle, no strings, no old bonfire – nothing! Fair to say that in the river we found a piece of rubber – old stlevshy piece. But he could get here with the spring flow, or the nearby mountains, or upper, or from anywhere – not the fact that it is “special” lost. And what is the product was – impossible to understand: no boots, no camera, nothing else. Even without a condom, if someone asks about it. Just stlevshy black piece of rubber stuck in the flow of the river among the rocks. Everything! Nothing more!
However, there is food for thought! All the same, nothing happens. River out as steeply gone – solid rock freaks. Hardly bears here are tumbling. What idiots or what? Who do you want? I do think that there are only small bears and extinguished by large ferocious. “Our” Bear last year – he is now two years old, I suppose? – He’s probably here and shit. (Sometimes it comes across pometik). A big to do that here – food supply zero. And for the young – salvation. Fish in the river , too, apparently, zero. But do not be distracted – from tires here? And that is, of what?
Several versions.
A) Could raft tourists here? Exclude! Neither the river to raft on it. So – it’s not a piece of rubber boat or raft. But if he did it, then brought it here from the upper Lena, there are all fused, and there are floods – th -th – s! Maybe somehow sucked into the river. Another is not given in terms of the alloy. Definitely!
B) Maybe it’s someone’s boots? Maybe. Whose? Trapeznikov lost? Or those whom he led: students, clergy? In principle, it can. But two questions: How does one go in one boot? And why cast boots, and not a burned or not taken – Trapeznikov would not allow “litter” in these places! And if the first question is the answer: “He’s shared friends, giving him something of spare shoes,” then the second question – the answer is no. Trapeznikov not allowed to litter! This is also clearly! So boots got here by accident – it also brought a stream.
C) What is there – go up? UFO base? Why do they need tires? And if there’s just some “installation” are? Maybe so. Then, once with the current side, this piece of rubber “in person” here is a man, his master, was not here. Again version stormy rains or floods. This is normal – it’s what we need, which means that does not prove anything about visiting these places other (except Trapeznikova and those whom he may have led) people.
D) And the most interesting under the letter “D”. This is purely to reduce the time. Version – “Condom”! Judging by the size – it is a very large male should be. Raptor any. Although lizards – every year they lay their eggs – why they condom? – They have nowhere to put it. Raptor – disappears. UFO? Do not bring such to meet! Dismisses this version soon! Pah-pah -pah, over the left shoulder. Giant bear? This is warmer. Then why black? Mourning? Apparently, something happened? And immediately after this question arises in mind: “I have one mogilnichek! … For mere pennies!” – Vadik Galigina face, hairy and cunning. Involuntarily smiled, “seek” version of the question: ” Why bears protected?” No, the version with a condom – not a roll. That leaves only a spring or stream terrible downpour! On that note, let us! Break.
By evening, we did not expect anything bad from this place. We even loved it . About ten or twelve miles – poplar grove – what ‘s wrong?
We photographed and photographed – well, that digital devices – the film would have to lug sacks six, no less! And on the night we stayed at the “direction” of the river, at an altitude of 1177, where he was as special for us, even the shore in small thickets of alder, poplar broken waterfall (as has already happened) and opposite, miraculously turned pink stone here cubic shapes with sharp angles, such a height exactly to become buffet table. How did it get here, but still as sharp as all the stones around ” licked” river? Pink table exactly on the arrow in front of a waterfall, at an altitude of just 1177 in the broken (probably lightning) huge poplar – well, if not mystic? So much Ryty! Think what you want.
What we have here Ryty “missed” gave us the right (and excuse) to drink brandy . (And a little vodka – it remained after the “spatter” at the Cape when we disembarked from the ship). Dined posushite things campfire, admired vechereyuschim sky, and went to sleep – we’ll see how the night goes to the so-called “cursed” location. We’ll see! While the cause for concern was not. Unusual place – who can argue? But whether it is bad? Here it is – a very controversial issue. Well, we’ll see, “that night coming for us”?
– Val, stoked the fire that night was not extinguished?
– Of course.
– Come on, brother! I – sleep!
– Come on!
The night passed quietly. No one around you ran, did not shout, do not hoot – there was nothing to worry about – we just “peacefully” sleeping.
That the river was near, that roaring waterfall in the glen on the contrary, that sometimes stray breeze blowing and rustling leaves, was the cause and consequence of certain sounds. Of course, I listened in the dark to try to catch something unusual. And sometimes I “hear” the voices of children, dogs barking, some snatches of music, and many more things. But this is – do not count!
If desired, any of us can murmur of the river, the sound of wind and the waterfall “turn” in any sounds. “Tune in” to a certain wave your imagination – and all! Can you tell everyone that you are in the gorge Rita heard the voices of aliens. Nothing of the sort – the murmur of water, waterfall and the wind! I hope these lines I immediately warned the various questions like: “Well, how do there at night? Scary? Heard anything?” Heard. Normal sounds taiga.
Morning, early, hasty breakfast, we set off. Left us quite a bit, according to the map, but what’s left – not an easy job. Less than a kilometer, we stumble upon the wall. The river here is bifurcated. One more subtle source fell between the stones on the left, the second – on the right side of the wall, but he was more assertive and polyhydramnios. Apparently, here ends “Bois de Boulogne” – our poplar grove. Wall – rock covered with cedar elfin wood, as all the space on the side and there rises further in the watershed, above, at the source of Rita. Well, let’s get the wall.
Valentin is logical to assume that the narrow, less water flow will climb easier and went to the left sleeve. We went after him. We flew on countless hordes of mosquitoes! Wall climb was difficult – not difficult, and difficult: a steep climb slippery rocks stream and elfin cedar thickets. But once on the plateau, we realized that this is just the beginning – in front of the ascent to the watershed. Maybe you had to walk on the right sleeve? Maybe there was some kind of animal tracks or trail Trapeznikova, or maybe there is generally easier to wade through the thicket of flexible branches, there may be altogether easier way? Who knows? Easy to say when you go second or third or sixth. First complicated. If he goes on the trail, everyone thinks it should be. If he lost the trail, all in the shower angry at him – as you lose the trail? And if there is no trail at all, then everyone thinks that he is not there wandered. But Valya experienced pioneer, and must bring us somewhere. And what is the conclusion? That slope, climb on it and everything – gorge behind but ahead there will be only source of Lena. But how to wade?
Thickets elfin worthless thing! Branch – whips flexible but easy tilting them, you suddenly feel “rollback”, and they’ll almost knocked down. Who has not walked in the wilds of elfin, he does not understand. Who went – no need to explain that. And then in the hands of another rifle. Prolazili need through the thickets, and to make sure that the trunk of your weapons was not directed toward the person. But how? Humans circle flicker between the bushes, then go – snake, each constantly seeks at least some “gap” between themselves for the stubborn branches. It turns out that the rifle – it is such chetyrehkilogrammovy damn uncomfortable sports equipment, something like a dumbbell that you want to overcome a thousand times with each hand until you get to the top. Yes, pressing this “dumbbell” need certain rules, which are called” safety in use, possession and transfer of firearms under impassable taiga”. Extra thrill!
Almost on the watershed, we found an old rusty jar – Well, at least some evidence that the person has been here. However, at the very top – it does not mean that the man went into the gorge, maybe he was picking berries here – enough currant bushes and cranberries all “sown”. In short, we really want to take that apart from us – there was no one down there in the canyon legendary wrapped in myths and gossip river.
– A Trapeznikov?
– What Trapeznikov? Well, Trapeznikov! Where he spent the priests here? In cassocks what?
– Why would not?
– Well, Trapeznikov Trapeznikov – it’s his job! We have something – officially announced! So – we are the first! Or are there other opinions? – Vladimir Pavlovich looked at them all.
Other opinions were not.
– Well, here! We have the right! – He added.
Who would mind? LET IT BE!
Everything! crawled out on top! Ended elfin! The “hole” of the gorge, the same ugly and unattractive as the entrance from the sea – is beneath us. Now I understand why few people want it “dive” – there should be creepy and scary, there must lie in wait in mortal danger, you can not go there – a taboo! “Where? Stop, miserable ! Wait, I tell you!” Such visibility! Now, sitting above the canyon, finally lighting up, we argue that the same can be really dangerous there – at the bottom.
And comes to mind only one, but it seems to us the most correct explanation. If you go even a little rain, the water flowing down from the sides of streams and waterfalls dramatically fills the river, and a plateau that we just climbed, for some time, apparently, rainwater accumulates and holds, and then it branches prognuv elfin, breaks down, and horrible flies flow through a narrow gorge. It turns out: the water is not only deepens the river sides, but also a huge flow from the upper washes everything in its path, and if anyone was in the canyon at the time – that nesdobrovat! Remember stones between trunks and branches of the poplars, which I mentioned in passing? That – and all to that is, all of this comes from. We were lucky – a half day or droplets from the sky. And here we sit, smoke, rain and going and gone! Now there will be svetopredstavlenie! And we have already passed! Lucky! Thank Ryty – missed ! Well, everything – went somewhere find water, and have lunch on a small brook, now feed the great Lena. “Ready – five minutes!” – Commands Pavlovich, we get up and throws himself on backpacks – breadwinners slackers sitting around our necks, figuratively speaking. We – the pioneers! It does not say, we – well done! The mood is good, though, and gray everything in this world of clouds and hlyabanya marshes. (Slap on the cheek – and 15.07.2007. Another mosquito is gone!)
What else to say about River Canyon Ryty?
The feeling is that just opened the gate – Well, go! You are not scared, “fire” in the engine room, you transcend the physical impossibility to come ashore, you have not stopped the authorities – all you endured, and proved that really want. Good! Gates open – go!
In other places it was something all the time: fatigue, irritation, tics, snakes, broken glass, turbulent flows, minor injuries, injury, fresh bear droppings, and the noise of his “master” in the bushes garbage. And here – nothing! Absolutely nothing! Quiet, calm, peace. No other medical air! (Radiation? Maybe!) River murmurs of unusual, unnatural colored stones in the poplar grove relic. And the taste of the water at the river too unusual! And the sky unusual! And rock canyon extraordinary! And grass and leaves, stones and again – all like a fairy tale! Yes, rocks, stones, stones around…
Such piles of piles of stones, I kind of want, dependence will bring, any story compose: will and calendar, and landing beacon, and ancient city , and the Acropolis – what you want! About “Pictures” on the rocks, I’m not saying by treating them in “Photoshop”, you can find “ABC” aliens or their message – writing to us earthlings. Anything would be a fantasy, “photoshop” and the popular rumor that “there’s something there!” – Legends gray distant centuries. Say this as one of the pioneers, – have the right! How have the right – to tell lies! Around to catch up on behalf of his myths, and intimidate those who want to walk along the gorge “with girls and accordion.” Whether they will use? Think about it ! In general, I already told you. Believe it or not – your right. And we did what they wanted. And we just open the gates! Us – lucky. Thank Ryty!
Let’s go on!
Spreading fire on a small lake, dinner, drank the remnants of that bottle of vodka, which we started at the cape, sipped on a sleepover and told here – until the end of the route, rest, as follows (the rain that dripped, then stopped, we do not particularly disturbing) we slowly packed up and moved on, to the right to us (according to the map) source of Lena. Today, there’s nowhere to hurry, find a suitable place, break camp, “patched”, and tomorrow, light, rounded up to the actual source, make measurements and recording, note it on a map and attach a sign that this year Valya not forgotten, and then go look for our “Frigate”. But it will happen, but for now we are going slowly on a white field moss, winding between dwarf birches and admire the stunning views.
Plateau (now the right of us) over the gorge Rita almost smooth and hairless, according to a large-scale map. And the hills like the tower – the same height, it’s hard not to notice. It goes from the plateau and gorges Baikal – impregnable rock and rubble, and by Lena – overgrown with dense cedar elfin wood steep climbs. To climb to the plateau, you need special few days. For the curious, this is an attractive place. But if you think, come up – and what you see? UFO landing strip? Intercontinental missile installation, which is guarded by towers, hills and boys in camouflage with big biceps? And there may be a helipad for international traffic forbidden potion – something dull place. Why do you see it? – Go easy on yourself, you’re done his job, and not be afraid of bears sui nose where the dog…
After an hour or two or three, we found a cool place on the shore of “Lena”, if you call this stream, which can easily go into a ford five-year boy with a plastic machine. And camped.
Sitting around the campfire, we watched through binoculars all the surrounding hills and glanced at the map, wondering what awaits us tomorrow. It turned out that nothing much waiting – eight kilometers on the way, “river”, about a nearby slope river makes a turn to the right, and there – at hand. Nothing special – no blockages, almost tundra, moss and all the way to a small rise. Just to bear not met. Beasts in the forest, they appear as you go – go, all of a sudden – bang! – Worth it! Location? There was no one! Is it worth it! More and merges with the landscape. All the time, for some reason, it seems that it is wet. (It may, however, they sweat? Like, should not!). It is something you have long heard and seen, and you saw it and immediately: alert, so to speak (although it is sometimes and heart pounding, something else happens – depending on who you’ll see!). Therefore, wandering through the forest, I always wary – uneven hour … Although Ryty already behind. However, there is still impassable taiga, one word – Reserve!
I wonder how unfamiliar terrain bends space. We looked through binoculars on the hills that seemed very distant, and in every unusual or dark stone beast seemed to us: a bear or deer. Tomorrow we learn that these mounds quite close, and very small pebbles, which we seemed beasts have only stones. But in an unfamiliar area, when you have yet to go for a turn, everything seems more meaningful and a little dangerous. The next evening, all these hills are… well, they will be in the fog… We will not hurry, read how it was…
Morning. Seven hours, probably (I watch the ship leave – was also something must leave). Lift, breakfast, and quickly go. As always! Here, Pavlovich – does not wobble, so this is his character. The weather is perfect, let’s go!
Directly across the river appeared camp geologists cabin, barn and trails in all directions, hiking and horseback. Valya – geologist from God, immediately identified – “our brother stood!” As long as we had other plans, cabin collapse did not – on the way back to reconnoiter. A little farther, 800 meters as claimed Valentin, will be another building with a slate roof.
– Oh, – said Valentine, – storage of explosives.
– What is “BB”? – Explosives warehouse. According to the technology of its build eight hundred meters from the camp and always with a slate roof – Valya knows everything.
We missed it too, turning over the hill by the river on the right.
– And why is it necessary with a slate roof?
– So as explosive! She has no right to get wet! By helicopter, but slate imported earlier. Technology, – explained to me unenlightened Valentin.
– It is clear, then, if in the forest house with slate, this warehouse of explosives!
– Exactly.
Here, fellow travelers! If you find a cabin in the wilderness with a slate roof – be careful – it is a warehouse of explosives, most likely. And if you decide to melt the campfire and throw a piece of “clay”, found in the cabin, do not be offended if he suddenly jerk (excuse the expression, but I write it specifically in such a way that you will remember forever!) You never know – what something plastids, toluene, or it would be dynamite! Do not take chances, you really ask! And the door sharply in these “houses” do not open!
And we step further, photographing and admiring the flat expanse of white and moss – the beauty, what not to say!
Ahead of the trees flashed something ginger.
– Beast! – Stood rooted to the spot, Valya.
I was third behind him and VI. Mechanically, I took a step and faced Pavlovich. Only after that I saw that flaunts Mezhuyev trees wapiti. Beautiful, red deer stopped looking, choosing where he would slip away. Quite a long time – a few seconds he twisted his head against hornless.
– Izyubriha – I dropped my carbine.
– Do not get in the way! – A voice Palycha over my head – he tried to get the camera. I stepped on “their” place. Hearing a human voice, a deer darted into the bushes and saw him no more.
When (in a minute), we moved on, I asked:
– And what does “not get in the way?”
– “Do not confuse” – corrected me Pavlovich.
– Well, well – “not to be confused,” so be it. What does this mean?
– Photograph interfere – this is the most, the survey closed! – Looking back on the move, I said blunt – Valentin.
– Thank you , Val ! Actually, I thought it was a bear.
– Yes, what is it a bear? – Val talked to me, chuckling. – It is visible, that, you know, red deer. Auburn though. Bear! … – He chuckled. – I thought the bear when you shouted, “The Beast.” – Yes elk – can be seen at once. This is the … – short, silent envy! – I interrupted Valya. – I’m like a normal person with a gun, seeing the danger, rushed to cover the breast team leader. How did I know that this deer? And if Misha? And I – “Do not get in the way!” – “Do not confuse” – just check me. – What’s the difference? – I spit in white, crunchy underfoot moss. – Do not appreciate us – vigilant guards! … And rescuers! Am I right, Alexeitch? – I turned to the representative saved. service, the last step with my backpack (We walked lightly, took only one backpack, boarding – my. His toting A.. carbine I lugged). Nikolai smiled … but said nothing.
After a couple of kilometers halt. Classy place – a small rock and snowfield “short ” young Lena. We stopped all photos unimaginable angles and views. Here, even elfin, twenty centimeters in height in all cones – hurry nature coming forth. At the same time, again by consulting the map and GPS (and without them?), It became clear that the source of Lena somewhere over there – one of two arms that come down from the hill about three kilometers in front of us. In binoculars Pavlovich determined that the right , visible to us stream should not be the main channel. Most likely, the mainstream left roots. But it is hard to see us – covers the hill. But it’s there – so decided Pavlovich. And we got up and went to check his assumptions.
1000 -year-old brandy, diluted 20 years – we have noted this finding and registering of official source Lena (height 1670) were two of them – the last two sleeves that could both become official origins of Lena. Had to split that examine both. Vladimir P. Valentin went on the left (if upstream, as we climbed) hose, and Eugene E. Andrei Valentinovichem went down the right stream. We stayed by Nikolai at the fork to wait the two groups, then to one of them to climb to the actual in our opinion. More below with binoculars, if you remember, we looked at both sleeves to immediately determine to which to go. Vladimir Pavlovich decided that the faithful one in which he is now gone. Eugene E. contrary was sure that the correct source of the one in which they went with Andrew Valentinovichem. Now we have to wait wranglers and find out who is right.
Throwing off his shoes, we Alexeitch lay in the grass, basking in the sun and “kayfuya” under a blue cloudy sky.
First returned with Valentin Pavlovich.
– 1648 meters – announced Vladimir Pavlovich, featuring readings GPS. – Let’s see what they have there.
Ten minutes later, a second group.
– How much? – Immediately asked Vladimir Pavlovich.
– 1670 – it’s a small lake, but there are higher, but there is water then goes under the stones.
– A regular, full current, – said Vladimir Pavlovich.
– Then – 1670, – said E. Eugene.
Vladimir Pavlovich thinking, calculating something in mind.
– I envy you! – Suddenly said Eugene E. . – And you will see that, and another source. And we’ll have to settle for just one.
– This thing – Valentine smiled – that’s for sure! We both see!
Vladimir Pavlovich looked up from the GPS and also razulybalsya .
– Yes, it turns out, we all origins Valley Lena see.
– It turns out – Eugene E. sighed. – Lucky you.
I laughed involuntarily:
– Yes, you, my friend, the diplomat! – I turned to Eugene Efimovich. – Very funny – all explained Vladimir Pavlovich. In any century, it was wrong, and to him, “Lucky you!” Very clever. And Pavlovich did not hurt, and at the same time, he now knows that all the sources seen, and that he was more fortunate than others, and he did not like the dispute in vain “lost”. Skillfully!
Everyone understood the above, smiled. Pavlovich understood and fairly nodding. Yefimitch slyly looked at me … What more laugh. And when it went to a small puddle when pasted plate (my name, unfortunately, was not there, but photographed against her I was allowed), so then we “sbryznuli” victory 1000 years old cognac.
( Pavlovich gave him a bottle, dug graves somewhere or lifted from the sea bottom – unfortunately I do not remember when. True or not – decide. Then – I do not care – I saw it for free, and did not ask. And if you ask: “what is the difference? “I answer,” I do not understand”. I do not know in what proportions it was diluted. Besides Pavlovich said that when he was brought back, it was almost a gel, almost solid. I – no doubt. And you – Decide for yourself !).
Immediately flew over us two bombers – as expected. Such aircraft in Russia only sixteen (according adjacent connoisseurs). Two of them over the world!
– Note Vladimir Pavlovich said, looking at his watch – exactly thirteen hundred.
– The planes, how to order…
– Well, that’s – agreed older. – And yet, the magic numbers: Today sixteenth zero seventh, and the source we found at a height of sixteen seventy – the numbers are the same, the combination is almost the same.
– Y-yes! – Have now agreed to everything – interesting happened!
Everyone thought for a few seconds, looking at his watch in the sky, wondering sequence of numbers – 13:00 – nowhere does not fit!
Then I fired a missile. Rocket, in honor of the source, burned me a hand. Skin became like singed pig. But it does not hurt, as there was after the blister, or other signs of burns. Wonders!…
Authors photo: E.Yu. Butakov V. Polevanov
Source: Angara.Net
Translation: Google
