The calendar on September 7 and we are ready to go on a short journey – St. Petersburg, Moscow, Transib, Irkutsk, Baikal, Kachug, the upper reaches of the Lena River, Ust-Kut, BAM, Transib, Moscow, St. Petersburg
In Moscow, you can go as a modest and calm, no noise and dust, a second-class carriage, in order not to get a false start. The main event is scheduled for departure from the capital, namely 13-00, Kazan Railway Station, the train from Moscow to Chita. And finally, let’s go. We have the coupe as much as 4 days. Ahead of Irkutsk.
As we ride on the train, after half of the country, and five time zones, I will not describe, although the trip memorable – for the first time all the same so far by train. Therefore, only the photos.
We are all lovers of beer and so on almost every station tried to buy local varieties to sample. Most of all, it is recognized by all, like Abakanskoye beer, named like AYAN, now I can not remember. It is very similar to the old Soviet varieties with short shelf life and in the bottle when pouring remain like a honeycomb. Tasty beer with bitterness, though this may have nostalgia.
In Irkutsk have been busy getting the goods and so the rest left the next day – on Baikal. When we arrived by bus to Lake Baikal, first climbed to swim. The weather was as ordered – without a single cloud, and 25°C, but the water is 8 °C, instantly seizes up. Certainly surprised by the cleanliness of the water and the shore, bathed in a straight port, near seven pieces were launches, restaurant, cafe, hotel, but not on the water. nor on the pebbles are no divorces or debris.
Ate to open a small restaurant, overhanging the water, remember the sign at the entrance “with its fish do not go”.
All the while driving up the wedding procession from Irkutsk literally 5-10 minutes, apparently a tradition – to visit Lake Baikal, and then …
According to the plan we had to go by bus Irkutsk – Zhigalovo (430 km), but as it turned out we were with their belongings, and we had fourteen of packages, it just does not get into. Small “PAZ”, goes once a day, but still completely clogged. To order in a minivan gets pretty decent amount. Had to quickly change plans. “According to the newly approved plan” decided to get to the village Kachug (280 km), there was “Icarus” and the landing was half empty, right in the midst of the people crammed like herrings in a barrel, well, this is small change … The coach Irkutsk – Kachug, six o’clock in the way (how much we were going to be Zhigalovo?) and that side of the river Lena – the the slipway. Yes, the alloy increased by 150 km, and we only have 15 days to return train: Ust-Kut – Moscow.
How much I’ve read various reports on the upper Lena, just in Kachug trip and ended, as we are starting here and will go down to 475 km BAM, pos. Ust-Kut. Lena in the first portion of our journey much wagging between the hills, changing direction by 120° or even 180 °, forming a high of 50 – 70 m. in height, and the color red “cheeks”. The spectacle is impressive. Designated seem creepy and wild, although along the river, it is rare jumping, there is a road – priming, even bus service to “Lasik” Irkutsk-Zhigalovo.
Bus terminal pos. Kachug, just 30 meters river Lena, so disembark at the bus stop. The driver, a big thanks to him, went to the gas station, where we stocked up on all the travel petrol. A first and a very strong impression of the pile – a huge number of midges, in the end we had to immediately put on the head of the grid, with the local children were playing near completely oblivious to the attention of a gnat, it seemed she did not bother them at all. While inflated boats and packed things, sent a messenger to purchase products. And by 19 o’clock you are ready to start. Rakes to the center of the river, its width is 50 meters in Kachug, start motor, goodbye civilization.
Very quickly it gets dark, literally for two turns river changes format, much of the spill, the first time the night.
The first morning as the river was not very wide, especially in the mist and fog will now every morning, the right words from the song “and in the morning fog in the forest.” I really wanted to go further faster, so did without breakfast, have a bite in the boat. The first day was cool and overcast. In the afternoon, the river became very winding, the first “Lena cheek” red.
The river in this area is very small and fast, permanent stone rolls, used motor boats impossible, so the locals and they do not, and between the villages of rare sense of absolute wilderness. The first section of travel, 4 days, catching up on schedule and went without dnevok, but do not regret it – nature is very beautiful. “Lena” in these places is very winding, and then with one, then the other side there are up to 70 meters first red, then white “cheek”. Of the villages like Verkholensk, it is a beautiful Orthodox church (alas, we took pictures of it for some reason did not.) Yes, live everywhere on the Lena mostly Russian.
The Lena River Kachug-Zhigalovo
And here is the last place where you can replenish provisions and where we originally intended to start the village and district center Zhigalovo, but in principle – is a village of the village there is nothing interesting there but the shop.
It is virtually a dead end. The road ends after 30 km in the remote village of Ust-Ilga in this last bastion of civilization among the local population bought potatoes than their very pleased and surprised, saying that we are going to go down the river – only on winter roads and abandoned villages throughout 200 km, and they abandoned a long time ago, back in the 30’s of the last century.
Local residents, whether in jest, or in earnest, offered us to live in the village opposite, where five or six abandoned houses, one time there was a young guy and he moved out a year ago. Worry, however, is not settled here, the Chinese, all such common concerns hovering over the region.
The first day’s rest made of 20 kilometers below Zhigalovo. Here to fish (caught only lenkov, or rather caught, the fisherman was only one), and wandered around the forest, some hunted, but by that time we already had trophies in the form of duck, duck soup and ate smoked fish. In the evening program – cards, dominoes, vodka, girls … alas girls were not, but for some crazy tourists were on the other side of the river, which are searching for each other shouting from all sides for three hours, we did not understand, they found each other or not, just everything gradually subsided.
A small digression about the weather: The temperature drop hit – day + 25°C, -6 °C at night and so almost every day. The upper reaches of the Lena River – the area of permafrost, so the cold is coming from the ground. It is felt especially at night, and the “European” sleeping with a thin bottom has absolutely no good. Did not help, and inflatable mattresses. Community have seen – we need, sleeping well padded around the circuit, the longer one – and learn.
The format of the river has changed – it has become much wider, almost extinct rifts, “cheek” is rare, but there were massive and gently sloping hill, almost entirely covered with orange larches and leafless birch, very cold nights. Residential villages was no more, and came across an abandoned seen that for a long time.
I want to describe one unusual or does not say very peaceful night. We stopped for a day’s rest in a beautiful place, a large clearing in the Lena River empties into the pure “Chichapta” nice and fast roll of the bend, and around the hills and taiga.
This idyll enjoyed it so much that we decided – a couple of days we’ll stand, fishing and hunting. Smashed a small camp. And in the middle of the night, wolves begin to howl at first in the distance, then closer and closer … We think that the wolves. The tent Headhunter, where gun is all the time snoring sounds, he does not care for all. And we, we, each in a separate tent is not joking – it is simply terrible, it seems that already surround. Did not survive, and awoke hand, say the wolves are howling right under your nose, do you have any air in Strelna. What took so fired, like no longer howl again and snoring. A wolf in twenty minutes the sirens again. During the day found near our camp in a clearing at night located a herd of red deer (Siberian deer), have found more than ten lairs and every dunghill, and yesterday it was nothing. They are the ones at night and howling (and we thought, why some wolves at local high voices …), we were then, and local hunters have confirmed that the so-howl of red deer in mating season, and the real wolves howling hear more than once.
On this day’s rest, we were three days – hunted, fished, even put a grid, though this had to climb into the icy water up to his neck, and all in vain it was demolished in a couple of hours, but with pike and burbot.
“Pancake Day” – yes it’s true, on this day we were eating nothing but pancakes and drinks are different.
Nearby, on the other bank of the river Chichapty located an abandoned village “Sherstyannikova.” The characteristic style of these abandoned villages – This is the “Home Estate”, a huge house with carved gates, tall and massive porch.
Courtyard, paved with wood and surrounded by a variety of buildings. And around 15 pieces – 20 peasants, are not small houses. And it’s all very organically inscribed into the forest between the endless hills. Necessarily located near hayfields. If here to add a loud and clear river on the outskirts of the village, which flows into the Lena River, just drawn picture of paradise, and it is no exaggeration. But today is hard to believe that there is life reborn again, very much distant and remote places.
Separate conversation about the gnat even more precise about the famous “Lena” gnats. Although there was the second half of September and the nights were freezing, by the evening of the entire boat ice – this bastard midges did not give the day is no life without a net on his head, nor drink, nor eat, nor spit sorry, thank you for crossings on the river it no. When you’re in a tent is a feeling that comes pouring rain, so she thrashes on the awning. But, as the evening sun was hidden, just heavenly life, so a couple of rainy days in the campaign were even pleasant.
“The meeting with the hunters.” We pass a small abandoned village Syrovo and met sternly boat with a good motor (40 troops) in it two healthy guy with guns. Initially, a small distrust of each other: Where are you from, who they are, and where you … but it quickly dissipated, and we were invited to “Zaimka” cup of tea. I explained what we gulls vodka over, but it was almost true. On the previous evening under the unexpected sincere conversations we accidentally drank almost all stocks, well it is. And imagine the “boss” says this is what we are, and call some tea. 15 miles across the board on the left house with outbuildings, with a huge satellite dish, and car GAZ 66, although the roads in these areas is not there.
Go to the house, but was struck by a whole pack of huskies scurrying for us, scored 30, all ages, and a very happy new guests. The house has a great room, number seven beds, a large desk with a lampshade hanging over him, a solid Russian stove in the corner of a bit of food and to top it hanging TV. All in all, a very comfortable, especially for hunters. What a surprise it was when we were informed all accounts of games of “Zenith” (what we were told by Peter still on the river), for the last time, our wild life, and besides, they were all wins. (This year, the “Zenith” became the champion). Drank tea, and in the way we have supplied liter bottle of vodka, and a very good one. Such good people meet in the forest. Honestly, we just met such people, here and in future trips to Siberia.
Penultimate Day stay more memorable trek into the forest. Actually special purposes, we did not pursue, decided to walk to the river “Upper Kytyma” left tributary of the Lena River, and through the taiga is four kilometers. After a couple of kilometers we finally got lost and lost orientation, specifically looking at the «GPS». While bypassing one after the other hills, in cloudy weather, the direction is lost. Thank God, we’re just experimenting. Watched «GPS» go perpendicular right direction, and away from the rivers ahead for hundreds of kilometers, only taiga. To “Verxneyu Kytymy” with a large hook, we all still come down, the real taiga river – beauty.
Upon returning we were surprised by a fisherman – caught “trout”. Though he is small (2 kg), but still nice. In the evening we did with Lenka and eaten.
A small digression about trophies. Fish – is about six lenkov, a couple of pike, trout and burbot, grayling, alas, is not caught, or rather did not catch, fisherman, then we had one. Venison couple of ducks and a chic wood grouse, and almost crippled in Ust-Kut, on the last parking lot.
Unexpected meeting on the Lena – a handsome man, “the black stork in red boots.” This bird of the “Red Book” we met three times towards the end of our journey. Twice storks flew away when he saw us, but in the Selenga River delta, on a large sand spit, having admitted almost at arm’s length. It’s a shame the camera was in the cargo boat. High stately black bird with red legs and beak, did not even budge, but we spent some indifferent gaze. Somehow, it is believed that the black stork is not found in these places, as seen great exaggeration or he decided to go back … But the bear never saw them though, “Lena” taiga very much. Maybe for the better, somehow without them calmer. Whom the truth on the top so it’s a lot of Lena ducks, they fall all the way and in very large numbers, and the duck was already fully embarked on the wing.
And here is the last stage, it is necessary to go 120 km. Already met populated village, but no shop is not there, roads, among other things, also. Transportation – is motorboat. We have to plan the next day – moldboard in nature, and no alcohol! Hope for the village “Turuk”, but alas we arrive there at nine o’clock in the evening. Meet on the banks of the tractor, which, oddly enough about all of us know – that for many days go down the river, where were staying and so on … As for the liquor store, do not worry now open for all geologists will be?? And did not disappoint. Well, took us for geologists and well. I wanted to say, “Uh … are looking for oil.” Salesgirl we also did not dissuade. For that moldboard failed. Finally managed to get grouse are in the “suburbs” of Ust-Kut. It is good that we are in Irkutsk hunting license to take all three districts, which were held alloy.
The station “Lena” Ust-Kut.
Everything seems to be. And there is still a small, but important fragment.
Author: (text, picture) Alex.
Source: Travel company Valaam
Translation: Google
