A few days ago, the team captain water tourists from Severomorsk Olga Sergeeva sent a photo report on last year’s rafting on catamarans on the river and the Blue River Lena. The report was written during the winter and Olga, in my opinion, did not miss any important moment with this tour. It’s always interesting when we write about people from another region …
I myself this trip leave only positive memories. If we talk about the team, this team is just wonderful: cheerful, friendly, playful, energetic, experienced! Behind the team rafting Gorny Altai, Karelia …
Next photo story of Olga:
Yakutia in 2014 – a dream come true!
The report on a hike in August 2014 to Blue and Lena rivers with a travel agency “Nord Stream”.
Home path … Yakutsk
Several years ago, my friends and I conceived to be in Yakutia – the edge of the distant, wonderful and fabulous. Dreams come true when in this endeavor. And leave taken, tickets bought, collected backpacks, spinning and cameras. Good luck! We again shoulder to shoulder with those who have passed many routes, overcome mountain rivers and rapids, a peck of salt eaten and were in different parts of our motherland. The airport, loading the plane and 7 hours flight from Moscow passed unnoticed – the euphoria of the upcoming trip and chat with your friends who have not seen – brightened this journey. And the commander of the crew declared emergency landing, and we saw Lena with its floods, islands and sand !!!
Yakutsk we met tropical heat, the sun and the midges. The town has grown in recent years, built up and became a cultural and scientific center. Just do not forget that this is a port on the Lena River and the capital of the Republic of Sakha (Yakutia). My husband of 15 years live in Yakutsk and arriving many years later to his homeland was pleasantly surprised to see beautiful high-rise buildings and modern city infrastructure.
From the ship to the ball …
Settled in a hotel, which we booked in advance prudently employees of travel agencies “Nord Stream”, take a shower and dinner, we wasted no time in the day were able to visit three museums. (Here, thanks to Lena Marycheva it by telephone from Moscow prerecorded us on all tours.) And so we went into town.
This is the central area of Yakutsk
First on the list was the Geological Museum of the Institute of Geology of Diamond and Precious Metal SB RAS. The museum is divided into two sections: geology and room mammoth fauna. Very interesting and informative tour, we heard from an employee of the museum and a wonderful researcher and saw hundreds of different minerals, rocks, fossils, gemstones, diamonds and metals
Next on the list we had the underground laboratory of the Permafrost Institute, and we sat on the bus and drove 20 minutes rest, realizing that forces us to be very, very necessary
Mammoth Dima front of the laboratories and institutes
Main directions of scientific activity of the institute is to study permafrost. The history of the Institute began with a small research station, built through the efforts of Mikhail Sumgin, laid the foundations of the science of permafrost. In the Soviet Union there were several such stations with underground workings, which studied the temperature and properties of frozen rocks. There is a “dungeon” under the building and Permafrost Institute in Yakutsk. Now it is not used for research, so part of the underground mine cleared and turned into a museum. Museum dedicated to the permafrost, is interesting in many ways.
In the first place, underground, secondly, ice, thirdly, as a permanent exhibit in itself it serves northern nature. We warmly dressed in fur coats or jackets, which were kindly given at the entrance – descended to a depth of 12 meters and hit the real kingdom of the Snow Queen. Through special “windows” we looked at the frozen layers of rock, which has about ten thousand years.
The roof and walls are covered with ice crystals dungeon unusual shapes. The underground museum exhibited a plaster copy of the famous mammoth Dima. 90-pound “kid” hurt his leg and was drowned in a pit filled with water, tens of thousands of years ago. Amazing Yakut climate 100% retained his carcass. And after a photo session with paleontological finds.
Tours are conducted researcher at the Institute Dmitry, he told interesting and quite enthusiastically. After froze, all rushed to the surface in 35 – degree heat, where we waited for another adventure is already pretty tired and we ran to the bus and rushed rushed to the city center to catch the exhibition “Treasury of the Republic of Sakha (Yakutia).”
It was a real shock from what we saw! After Yakutia – is 95% of the Russian diamond and 15% of gold production. Treasury of the Republic of Sakha – is a small part of this huge, almost does not represent wealth – is a unique collection of nuggets of gold, silver, natural diamonds, kamnetsvetov and masterpieces of jewelry and carving art of Yakutia. This is a small part of what we are lucky to see a 40-minute tour …
Ring transformer “Galanthus”. Gold, silver, platinum, diamonds, emeralds
Bracelet “Aan Alahchyn Khotun.” Silver, mammoth ivory, bronze, gilding
Brooch “Deer.” Gold, diamonds
More than 3500 diamonds on this tray …
“Pole of Cold” – he called this masterpiece of gold and diamonds
Products made of gold …
Diamonds of Yakutia
And, of course, lots of exhibits, each of which is unique, beautiful and exclusive. At the end of the marathon – we rewarded ourselves dinner in a cozy restaurant “Mahtal” and tasted young horse meat and fish – whitefish and white salmon, tired but happy rushed to sleep …
The next morning, the guys – the instructor of the travel company “Nord Stream” – helped us with the bus and took us the whole day out of town near the village Tabaga on the river Lena, where we have a day of sunbathing, swimming, grilled kebabs and fished. The day passed quickly, and here we are in the evening at the hotel pack backpacks. Early in the morning – a welcome departure for the route. But before going to sleep, of course, we came across a friendly company in the kitchen and talked late into the night. Everyone was excited and barely slept the morning … Hurry !!!
On the route !!!
Six hours on the bus and back roads of taiga flew by. We sang songs, singing a remarkable collection, compiled by Michael Mestnikova (our guide and instructor), slept, joked, told interesting stories from our camp life, and once tight lunch at a roadside cafe. In general, life flowed in a carefree, happy and hurried direction, when each of us, at last – I realized – everything – we’re on vacation !!! On reaching the village Berdigestjah we dumped all our gear out of the bus, warmly said goodbye to our driver and shouting to him lastly our Naval threefold: Hooray! Hooray! Hooray! We have come to expect a miracle soon – terrain vehicle “Trekol.”
While waiting for “Trekol” – Mikhail group registered at the State Inspector of the mountain regions, as Our route passed through the territory of the National Nature Park AAN AYYLGA SIINE. Finally, all the formalities are settled and we are ready to continue the journey. Yes, by the way, there was an extreme point where the present mobile communication – we call-back home, friends and relatives to give a farewell to a long journey ahead of us after waiting 11 days rafting on the Blue and the Lena River. Everyone was very upbeat, fun and have really wanted to come to the river bank. Among us there were a few avid fishermen – is Misha, Sasha, my son Maxim and actually th, Olga. Of course, rather an opportunity to throw a spinning in the river fired the consciousness of the possibility of a successful, interesting fishing and catching trophy fish.
Well, perhaps it’s time to get acquainted with our team of 13 people. So – a captain, guide and instructor, director of travel company “Nord Stream” Michael Mestnikov – in person
That was such a part of our group – a close-knit, friendly, seasoned campaigns and that much important – very funny !!!
Meanwhile behind us came rover “Trekol” – we loaded bags and set off to the Blue River. We had to go 5 to 6 hours taiga, swamps and terrain, but if there’s true and reliable friends – and then a long road to joy.
A couple of times along the way – we had to go out of ATVs wheel stuck in the swampy mire and we were afraid to get stuck in the middle of the taiga, but it was great! Around noisy pristine forest, we gathered ripe cranberries and breathed a delicious, thick taiga air
Blue River
On arrival at the river bank of the Blue, we unloaded our belongings from the rover, listen to instructions from our guide Michael on the rules of stay in the territory of the National Nature Park. Tourists experienced and we are well aware that the nature should be protected and not allowed to litter, not only in places, and everywhere, wherever we traveled.
By the way I want to note that during our trip we did not leave behind a single gram of waste on the river banks, all banks, bottles and other … were exported in special garbage bags.
Here it is the long-awaited shore, and we proceed to the arrangement of the first camp on the River Blue (a tributary of the Lena River, length 597 km). The first night, Misha said – I am with you very easily, you experienced travelers themselves know what to do. This was absolutely true, is our way, and an hour later we were standing tents, and fire burned. The boys went to collect firewood …
Assigned duty do cooking dinner, Natalia Belova with the camera went to look for successful scenery, and I grabbed spinning, ran ashore. Soon I was joined by Sasha and Maxim. Fishing in the evening was a success – was to catch a few pike, roach and a great thick scoring perch. The fish, cleaned and carried to the kitchen, put the smoke and toast. And then there was the first dinner by the fire, talking and singing after midnight.
Tania cook near our first campfire – how many of them will still on our route, but the first fire, as the first dinner together, remembered most of all …
I would just touch on midges, of course, we overcame it shamelessly, climbed into the eyes, nose, ears – and everywhere the first half hour was a slight panic … We will eat these blood-sucking on the banks of the river Yakutsk. We certainly stocked repellents, but they acted just 20-30 minutes, and then everything starts from the beginning … we have eaten and gnawed !!! Once, several years ago we floated in the Altai Mountains on the rivers Chuya and Katun, and even on the banks of the river gnats and mosquitoes there – in the forest, these “beasts” are found in large numbers !!!!
Local residents then shared a recipe of salvation from these creatures, they took cooking vanilla and spreading 2-3 sachet into a glass of water, coated with a liquid prepared – successfully escaping from midges. With this in mind, a hike was purchased a large amount of vanillin. Michael also knew this recipe, but the divorce is not in the water, and vegetable oil – in the end, we got excellent protection against gnats and midges throughout the campaign, so that, if someone does not know – boldly take on arms helps! Of course, we still biting, but life has become possible, life has become happier, and soon we stopped at a gnat to pay much attention.
So, the first dinner and getting to know those in our team proved for the first time, it is Masha from Yakutsk, it was a sweet, kind, prepared by the tourist who knows the traditions, customs and traditions of the Yakut people – throughout the campaign Masha was simply irreplaceable !!!
Sasha and Tanya from Vladivostok, turned out to be excellent, sociable guys. It amazes me how Tanya (vegetarian, in fact) every morning with a straight face the whole group has cut raw sausage, put in containers sandwiches and quietly, quietly does a great part of the work in the kitchen! Sasha – an avid fisherman and supplier of fish to our table, the only one who caught the fly, with a straight tenacity fished all shavers and thresholds, and then taught the tricks of Maxim and Misha fly fishing!
Sitting around the campfire we remembered interesting stories from our camp life, sang songs, drank cho-cho (starts around the circle, each appears to talking about himself, who he is and from where the drink poured a sip of the drink and let cho-cho welcomed all the participants andIt transmits the next mug. But soon a hearty dinner, experience over the past day and a long road tomorrow early rise did their job – we wandered through the tent and went to sleep.
August 5 morning dawned sunny and after breakfast, we began to collect the camp and catamarans! Today we have to reach the area of the river “Kyra Tas” to see the rock “Three heroes” and visit the ancient petroglyphs “Andreevskie”.
It’s my first Yakut perch …
For dinner is smoked, tasty fish!
Catamarans collected things loaded carriages distributed – are preparing to go!
The first day we transplanted, bandages, learned to manage 8-seater loaded catamaran, raking each other, shot several times stranded stranded catamaran with this very shallow (water in the river Blue dropped to near the critical level).
I soon realized that continued our journey in this regard is quite complex – in some places in the river water was ankle-deep, but we rowed often practically dragged dragging our catamarans in shallow water, and that they are the first rocks on the river Blue
Valera and Max climbed to the top, clearly visible from here as the river became shallow blue.
Next, we visited the “St. Andrew” pisanitsa, it dates from 1 thousand years BC and suggests that people back in those ancient times have lived in these parts. The drawings made with red ocher, you can see scenes of hunting animals. Touching his hand to these rocks and eyes closed – you’re mentally transported to that distant time. And he grows wild hunter with spear in hand, to track down their prey … and feel the wisdom of the ages of the rocks, feel the heat emanating from the stone, and as if purified from all evil and become cleaner, kinder and wiser. It is an indescribable feeling I experienced only once – in the Altai … among these – the eternal mountains and rocks …
There we had a short rest and dinner. Having rested, we set off. Rocks are getting higher, and the surrounding landscape have all beautiful and soon we were in a fabulous, fantastic world of Blue River rocks.
This day was perhaps one of the most difficult for the entire trip, we often stopped and searched among shallowed Blue deeper places to pass and dragged again and again our catamarans and boating, but with all the beauty of these places has not ceased to amaze us, and Conversely every minute and every stroke we became happier understanding of where we are, what we see and what we have yet to see with their own eyes.
The next day, August 6, we decided to go fishing in the morning, cook dinner, and then pull off. The weather was wonderful, fishing, though not particularly successful (due to a strong fall in water level) – but the fishermen have caught their first Yakut Lenka. Duty cooked a delicious soup, to smoke fish and Lily baked cakes in our first campaign! Later I will tell you about this miracle of our campaign …
By the way, when we first smoked fish – I was surprised that in field conditions, where there are no alder, cherry, or of any other chips for smoking – at the bottom of the smoker Mikhail laid green willow leaves, which grow in abundance along the banks of the river and all ! Fish turned a light golden color with a pleasant aroma and delicious, so take the weapons, friends, tourists!
And this is – Alexander with the first Lenk – caught that day.
But the camp is assembled, loaded things, spinners tied. The way!
Again, the beauty Sinskaya pillars and the space around with happiness, you live, you see it all, go shoulder to shoulder with the great guys, friends, children, and not on what nezhishsya – either Turkey or Egypt resort, and in his great and vast country traveling the most beautiful corners of nature. Without pathos to say that each of us was happy and proud of myself for what I could, wanted and flew thousands of kilometers in this extraordinarily beautiful region !!!
On this day the gods Yakut Masha took her cell phone … he fell into the deepest part of the river, we stopped – dived and tried to find him, but to no avail. “Let him they will …” – said Masha and smiled! “I’ll start a new life with a clean slate!” – And we believe it, that it will be so! In life, as always, something to lose and something to find!
Slowly wielding oars and often making great efforts during the passage of shoals, we walked along the river, enjoying the bizarre topography of rocks, and were really happy …
On this day, our transition has been very short, Michael decided to make us a gift and give a rest and after 4 hours – we came to the foot of the cliffs kissing. Here we set up camp and made a bath day (or night).
Kissing rocks Blue River
Beauty and flax meal, made from lenkov caught for dinner.
Recipe: Fish cleaned, cut, add salt and pepper, add the onion and lemon juice, close tightly and shake for 5-7 minutes. Fish is ready !!! How was it delicious!
Moon Path
Then there was fishing, dinner by the fire, and extraordinarily beautiful, moonlit night forced us to pick up the camera, and then long to sit by the fire and quietly, so as not to anger the spirits (as we explained Masha) – sing, when we all heard, that on the other side, somewhere high in the mountains – howling wolf … that was the song leader, he said, as we admired the moon, as we sang quietly and charmingly, and was not afraid of the proximity of a wild animal, we justWe feel the merger with these rocks, the river, the moon and even to a wolf.
On the morning of August 7, we have a little fishing. Asan caught his first fish in my life and it was a flax! As he was glad this little victory and proudly brought their catch at one table, and we are sincerely happy with it! I also caught a few Maxim Lena, Sasha hunted grayling! But soon the attendants shouted “Zhooor!” And we quickly had breakfast and turning the camp, set off by the Blue River
It captures the spirit of the beauty of this region
This excerpt from a song on the route composed extemporaneously our aunt Tanya:
Again smell repellents
At Blue we go again,
And we enjoy the moment,
Grebe and “Gummi Bears” drink,
After the turning stranded we
Catamaran again had to carry,
But Michael, Max, Valerie did everything themselves
I did not have wet feet and …
On this day, we walked to the river Nachabyl. Rise to rock group “Heart”, examined the grottos and caves in the rocks along the banks of the Blue and reached the rocks, located at the mouth of r.Homus Yuryuyete. The day was sunny, warm and full of impressions from what we’ve seen. The river did not become deeper, and increasingly we had to jump from almost catamarans and uploaded to drag our ship through the shallows. I must say that this work is not easy.
There certainly must say a special thank you to our men – Valera, Max and Mike on our kata and Grisha and Sasha Asan second catamaran the entire burden of this very difficult process took over. Portage River, of course, knocked down the pace, there is a loss of time, but when the team is friendly, cohesive and experienced, prepared physically and mentally stable, the difficulties are overcome easier and easier, and a sense of humor (which every one of our team was in excess) – It gives additional strength.
Ancient warrior to protect the peace of the Blue River. Bizarre castles … all this we were lucky enough to see the route
By the evening of the planned kilometers have been completed. We set the camp, dinner and a little after sitting around the campfire (all certainly tired that day we rowed nearly 9 hours), we went to sleep in tents.
On the morning of August 8, we got up earlier than usual, and after breakfast pasta with stewed meat and gathered for lunch snack, quickly broke camp, loaded catamarans and set out. On this day we have been waiting a long transition, we started a little bit to keep up with the scheduled plan, as I have already said, the river became shallow, and we lost a lot of time in crossing the shallows.
On this day we planned to visit the petroglyphs Amma Chygyn-in-mouth r.Ulahan Chagyn and climb on the rocks “Ottonoh.”
And again, the unearthly beauty of the pillars in the river until the evening Blue accompanies us
We rowed and catch fish in promising locations …
At the dinner will be roast pike …
Yakutia – a wonderful, beautiful and magic land!
But not all the plans that day had come true … in the late afternoon when passing another shoal – we heard a strong cotton and the balloon descends quickly realized – we – ripped. Unload the shore guys dismantled catamaran, and Masha, armed with a needle, more than an hour sewed impressive hole. Michael then put a patch and as all this had yet to dry – we decided to stop here for the night.
On the morning of August 9, the delicious breakfast was waiting for us on Lily. Pancakes with raisins and candied fruit, and children on special order it baked pancakes with ham. It should be noted that the starter Lily brought with her from Severomorsk, in the evenings made the brew in the morning or in the afternoon often spoiled us with delicious cakes or pancakes.
While the boys collected refurbished catamaran fishermen caught lenkov and we cooked the fish baked in foil – amazingly tasty dish!
And now we are ready for a new adventure and once again repelled paddle from the shore! Good luck!
After a couple of hours, we caught up with a group of tourists walking the same route as we do from our travel agency “Nord Stream” and stopped to climb on the rocks “Otonnoh.”
Heat goodbye to tourists from other groups, we have set out. Realizing that soon we will have to part with this beautiful river with its wonderful world of rocks and mountains, with its fishing, we became honest, sad, and we tried to remember and capture on camera every bend in the river and every rock bizarrely grown …
Time passed and now the evening sun gave us an amazing opportunity to make smart pictures Sinskaya pillars!
And this is reflected in the river Sinskaya poles – a great job Natalia Belova, our main photojournalist, experienced tourists traveled almost the whole of Russia, and half of the world, very good company, wonderful man, a true and reliable friend!
And our scheduled nearly 27 kilometers on that day have been passed and we are tired, but happy camp, dinner and a little after sitting and talking (sharing experiences in the past day) went to bed.
August 10 morning was foggy, but the sun soon rose again … 35 – degree heat !!!
On this day, we again had to go more than 25 km to the confluence of the river and the cliffs Sylbah № 32. The day was very hot, and we are right in the clothes jumped into the water with catamarans, pleasure swim, dive and talked about that summer in Yakutia – much better than the sea!
On this day, we met on the banks of musk deer, but it was not possible to take a picture, because when she saw us, very quickly disappeared in coastal bushes. More on the sandy shore, we saw traces of female bears and bear. Wild horses began to appear more and more often (they are certainly not quite wild), but from spring to late fall grazing by themselves.
Along the way we fished, relaxed on the beach, and once Misha, moored to the stone island, showed us a lot of remains of some prehistoric animal bones were fossilized and dark – brown. He told us that the park can be found the remains of Quaternary mammals: mammoths, bison, rhinoceros, horses and deer.
And somewhere in the region of 16 hours, even when the sun was shining and we are tourists, there is nothing unaware, Michael tells us that approaching thunderstorm and rain. We began immediately to look for a parking space and an unplanned overnight stay. After 10 minutes on the coast saw quite cozy and very quick clearing (by that time already felt the approach of a storm), they began to unload the stuff and put up tents. Only we threw sleeping bags and backpacks to tents and began to pull the tent “Aleksika» 8x 6 meters as a strong gust ripped a piece of curtain, and dropped the first large drops of rain. We have managed to tie the rain torn awning, cover food and other social things and tucked tent oars friendly company climbed under it, the good place at all enough. And then it began the moment doomsday.
Lightning flew both vertically and horizontally, thunder – an echo of the mountains, and I repeat it increased tenfold, and it was really scary. The heavy wind and rain lashed from all sides, and we chilled wet and clung to each other … sang songs, drank “Gummi Bears” eating sprats, laughing to stupor and were happy! We were with friends, family and loved ones in spirit, and we were good together! Two hours later, the downpour stopped, we dragged the tent, dig in a tent by the water flowing everywhere and bite – collapsed to sleep!
Morning of August 11. On this day, we have to say goodbye to the Blue. To reach the village Sinskaya and cross to the right bank of the Lena River. In total, it is necessary to leg it a little more than 30 km. But we already no stranger to work together oars and, after breakfast, we packed up and drove off!
And when left to Sinskaya 2:00 course, we heard the familiar cotton and realized that our catamaran again naporovshis on a sharp rock – has sprung a leak. Rescue and repair work was carried out very quickly and smoothly. Time, which we and so lacked, melting eyes, but there was nothing. Lily took out a set of surgical instruments, took cleverly and skillfully sew impressive size hole.
Then glued patch, dried, and collected the catamaran, losing only two hours – pushed off from the shore. According to the plan in the village Sinskaya we were going to restock products. A short stop on the way and the picture on the memory of the Blue River.
We said goodbye to this amazing river and say thank you to our guide Michael for what he developed and organized the route for one of the most beautiful rivers in the world. We laughed, smiled, and my heart was sad, will we see more, ever, these bizarre and unique columns Blue River.
So far we have seen the first house, the boat and realized that arrive in the village Sinskaya. On the beach with catamarans were few people and the rest, breaking the steep climb, we went in search of the store.
Having 20 minutes of fairly deserted and desolate streets of the village, our searches were unsuccessful. We ran in all three shops on the patch of 50 meters within 15 minutes made it probably a week’s earnings. But we are now again with sausage and cheese, and Pepsi (like a very nasty) with beer and various pechenyushki and sweets, and fresh fruits and vegetables. Even buy a bag of potatoes, we looked around the impressive mountain products and became sad as we all Dothan to the river ??? The locals looked at us in amazement as savages, but friendly. Smiling, greeted and laughed as we all will drag?
Having 20 minutes of fairly deserted and desolate streets of the village, our searches were unsuccessful. We ran in all three shops on the patch of 50 meters within 15 minutes made it probably a week’s earnings. But we are now again with sausage and cheese, and Pepsi (like a very nasty), and various pechenyushki and sweets, and fresh fruits and vegetables. Even buy a bag of potatoes, we looked around the impressive mountain products and became sad as we all Dothan to the river ??? The locals looked at us in amazement as savages, but friendly. Smiling, greeted and laughed as we all will drag?
Here because of the miracle of turning left the car stopped at the store, the driver got out and stood up, stretching in the sun. I quickly walked over to him and plaintively asked us to bring products to the river. To my surprise, he happily agreed and helped throw multiple boxes, sacks and bags in the car. Then we climbed into the truck and drove to the songs his catamaran.
After downloading all of our goodies in catamarans, we set out. And a little historical information about the settlement. Sinskaya, the village forms Sinskaya nasleg Khangalassky region of Yakutia. The village is located at the mouth of the Blue – a tributary of the Lena River, 185 km south-west of Yakutsk.
On the shore of a monument to soldiers killed in the Great Patriotic War
As soon as we are through the surrounded us on all sides we tried to reach the shallows of the Lena, the fog crept upon us …
After a few minutes the majestic river Lena took us in his arms, and blue, we bowed and shouted our threefold: Hooray! Hooray! Hooray!
See something in the fog is dense surrounded us was not possible, the width of the Lena River in this place was nearly 5 km. Michael said to stay close and catamarans, focusing only on the river, we set off.
Hard to us was given this transition, to be honest. Everyone was already very tired from long hours of rowing. Evening was approaching inexorably and in addition the fog began to get dark already, but there was no choice, and we collect will in a fist and clenched his teeth furiously rowing and rowing. And he awaited the shore! The camp is pitched quickly. At this point, still had a problem with the wood, but the fire is lit, dinner cooked, and we, in spite of the fatigue, cover the holiday table. Today is the birthday of Alexander Shilov and there is no reason not to drink to the health of a remarkable man on the banks of the Lena! And then Lena Marycheva put down on the arrival of the river – the namesake! At the height of the dinner we come for us to visit the local people – four small, furry hare! Running out to light the fire, they clung to each other and were not afraid of us at all, and even enjoyed participated in a photo shoot. Four hours they sat and ran beside us, and then fled.
Friendly gatherings dragged into the night. With the girls we went to the bank and asked Lena Yakut all the gods, to the morning fog cleared. I really wanted to see Lena Pillars in all its glory and make a keepsake photos of our stay in one of the most beautiful places not only our homeland, but also all over the world! But over and a second wind, and we went to the tents to sleep.
On the morning of August 12, I got up early and on the banks of Maxim with spinning already fishing. That day I was on duty in the kitchen. The fog was still thick curtain.
Maxim caught soon brought Lenca, and then they were all amazed, usually the fish caught in the rapids, shoals – where there is a strong current and the jet, and Lena catch Lenka – a rarity. That morning, I had caught a pike, and we as a supplement for breakfast baked fish in foil with cranberries. Very tasty dish turned out, it should be noted! Masha Yakut baked tortillas on the fire, took them to the bank of the Lena and feed “our Ebe” so tenderly she called Lena, that this majestic river was us kind and generous. Here all surprisingly began to dissipate fog and by the time we push off from the shore, the sun came out! We were happy!
Beauty, strength and breadth of Lena impressed us! And not for nothing, because it is the largest river in North – Eastern Siberia, it flows into the Laptev Sea. Lena is the tenth in the world in length, and the eighth in the world in affluent, its length is 4400 km! On the way from us was required maximum attention and coordinated work of the oars, because for the place it was swift and we had to strictly maintain its course.
Rounding one of the many islands that come our way, Michael noticed a deep whirlpool and proposed in this promising place to go fishing. Moored to the island, we grabbed spinners, and went their fishing experience happiness. In less than five minutes, followed by Misha powerful bite and after a five-minute fight on shore was quite large vyuzhena spotted pike beautiful. Then Maxim shouted: “There!” Valera with podsaki ran to help him, and that after a few minutes another toothy beauty was on the beach!
Then, for 20 minutes, and Maxim Misha fished for another impressive pike, and we decided that we fish for dinner enough for the eyes, staged a photo shoot and production of downloading in a bag and tying on a catamaran, very pleased continued our route!
The biggest pike was 98 cm and weights we, unfortunately, are not.
In the evening, dinner was fried pike in batter (batter remains of the cakes and traveled with us) ear pike and pike smoked. We ate everything! We shared experiences in the past day. Several times caught myself thinking that I want to make a stop – frame to extend the feeling of joy of life to communicate with friends and the outdoors!
That morning came on August 13. Today we have to reach the Lena Pillars. The way!
A couple of hours of hard work the oars, our friendly company approached the shore at the National Natural Park “Lena Pillars”, located near the mouth of the river Labydya.
Almost an hour we climbed up into the sky leaving a horizontal trail. Heat, midges and all the other pleasures of life (we forgot to take with water and dying of thirst) accompanied us in this recovery, but now, finally, we are on the viewing platform! Guys, this is a must see! It was worth the four who fly, and to whom, and six thousand kilometers and then came all the way by bus, jeep and catamarans, to see the beauty of the Lena River and its pearl – Lena Pillars! A little background information …
Natural Park “Lena Pillars” is a system of protected areas of national importance. July 2, 2012 World Heritage Committee included the Nature Park “Lena Pillars” in the UNESCO World Heritage List.
This is a complex vertically elongated rocks, seat height over 200 meters, stretching for many kilometers along the Lena River.
Until today these rocks scaring people with awe, and for Yakut and Evenk this place is considered sacred. Previously, the common people the way there was ordered because they feared the wrath of the spirits of the rocks. We do not disturb the peace of the spirits, and we tried not to make noise and behave respectfully, and also cares for what we see. We clearly understand that such beauty (columns like frozen statues of people) we are on our planet Earth will not see anywhere else, and were very grateful to imagine the fate of each other and our instructor Michael that we are in this incredibly beautiful place and see all with my own eyes.
Downstairs, we had lunch, bought souvenirs and pushed off from the shore. Our alloy was held under the Lena Pillars to the island, where we stopped for the night.
Many good and warm words I want to say about each of our campaign. All of us, of different ages, diverse, with different specialties complemented each other, and we were very comfortable in our company. Aunt Tanya … 59 years, has gone through many mountain rivers and overcame serious rapids and start alloys do in ’52! “Raftomagnitolla” – so nicknamed her our instructors in the Altai. He knows incredible bunch of songs, poems and stories, an excellent cook, a wonderful and irreplaceable person in our group. The boys took care of her, and when they are dragged into the shallows catamarans, Tanya was once even after a cup of coffee. But she did a lot of work on the farm. And our guys? Max Valera on our kata and Grisha and Asan on the other, how much effort they spent on these shoals, wires torn – but dragged heavily loaded kata. We load and unload all our gear. Engaged in logging. Funny, Funny, honest and open with each trip … more responsible and irreplaceable! The best in the world – our children! Girls: Lily, Natasha, Tanya, Lena, Masha, Olga – all highly trained tourists. Knowing how and what to do in any situation, interesting interlocutor, have a lively sense of humor, that the campaign is very important and true, reliable friend! As sung in one of our rafting song: “I’m for a friend and hand and heart, and the heart will give …” So, it’s about each of our team! Suddenly remembered such uncomplicated lines …
So happy days that with the sun,
What I snow I heat – all equally.
And my friends, mulberries, side by side,
And step, we in one direction.
We were all happy and the fact that we just have each other, from time to time we get together and really – we walk in the same direction!
In the morning we dressed especially for this alloy made T-shirt and took photos, the Lena Pillars in front!
On the day we had to move many kilometers tukulans and we decided to rent boats with motors of local fishermen, the guys tied to our catamarans boats and a couple of hours two Yakut fisherman comfortably towed us to the right place. Thus, we have saved time and again went to the schedule of our rafting on the river.
Moored to the right bank of the Lena River, we said goodbye (to pay them the amount, negotiated in advance for delivery) Yakut with our new friends. They really liked our St. Andrew’s flag, and they asked him a gift, but we explained that the flag was with us the entire route, and will be on the right at the end of our hike passed instructor Michael.
And we are waiting for another miracle of this region – tukulans – Sands of Yakutia. This is the realm of this desert among green taiga. There is speculation that tukulans are ancient sand bars Lena, which probably tens of thousands of years ago flowed west of its current channel. According to other versions, tukulans formed sand has spread by the wind from the foot of the mountains with glaciers that descend about 20 thousand years ago. Or due to the erosion of ancient sandy strata who have risen in the vertical motions of the crust. A unique and beautiful place. Rising to tukulans, we were fascinated opened kind, saw fresh tracks of moose – receding into the distance, wild rose bushes, covered with ripe, red berries.
Lily in the kingdom of sand, found an ancient dagger, we photographed and given to Michael, to transfer to the museum. Then Mike told us that the cross dates from the 19th century, as it was in the sand? And Lily was able to see him?
Good warm up and cool tukulans in Lena, we pushed off from the right bank. We had to go through the final segment of our route and land on the left bank near the village Bulgunyahtah. The task did not seem complicated. On the way we stopped for firewood, because at the final point of disembarkation we were to spend the night, and with the wood there, as Mike said, it does not matter. To get to the left bank, it was necessary to get around the island and to shovel against the tide. I had to work all together and we piled on the oars. And here we are moored to a parking lot and removed from the route. All the usual: unloading catamarans campsite cooking dinner.
Dinner was tinged with sadness, we knew that tomorrow will have to part with this beauty. Misha and Masha gave us a stunning view of magnets Sinskaya pillars. After dinner we sat around the fire for a long time. The songs are not sung. The night was quiet. Each of us, obviously remembering the stages of the route traveled. How quickly it was over!
August 15 morning was sunny. We dismantled and dried catamarans. Then our whole team wrote reviews, wishes and words of gratitude to the flag of St. Andrew brought us from Severomorsk. Then I solemnly under the Naval, threefold: Hooray! Hooray! Hooray! – Handed the flag on the storage and memory Mestnikova Michael. That bus down for us from the high bank of the Lena. We ship equipment and personal belongings. It’s time to go, as he sang Vladimir Vysotsky:
In the bustle of the city and in heavy traffic
Returns We – just nowhere to go!
And come down from the conquered peaks,
Leaving the mountains, leaving his heart in the mountains.
We left my heart on the shores of two beautiful rivers: the Blue and Lena. We left with a sense of transience traveled route, with thousands of wonderful pictures with gratitude to the friends that were there and a lot of impressions from what we’ve seen and experienced.
Farewell to the great Siberian river Lena, Lena Pillars with unique, Blue River with no less, and in some places and more impressive Sinskaya pillars, with excellent fishing and an indescribable feeling. Behind the more than 280 km route. We left behind a piece of their heart and their soul, and we hope that will be enough impressions for a long time. Goodbye!
And maybe … GOODBYE?
P.S. Michael Mestnikova and travel agency “Nord Stream” thank you for the perfectly organized campaign! Everything was perfect! Equipment, food, shuttle – everything! Suggestions: hiking bath and two days plus the route to have dnevki and more free time for fishing. And yet … in August 2016, we decided to return with friends in Yakutia and Michael take a trip on the river Amga.
We wish all the new and interesting routes, loyal, reliable friends and a lot of positive impressions from contact with nature! She is beautiful!
The report used photos Mestnikova Michael, Natalia Belova, Tatiana Gromik Lilies Korolenko, Olga Sergeeva.
Thank Lilies Korolenko and Tatiana Gromik for assistance in compiling this report.
Olga Sergeeva. Severomorsk
Source: Dnevniki.Ykt.ru
Translation: Google
