Idea
The idea of the alloy on the Lena visited unexpectedly, and just as suddenly met approval in the face of two comrades, somewhere in the depths of the soul thirsting for diversity in the joint rest.
Many write that such an event prompted their adventures of Tom Sawyer, whitewater rafting down the Mississippi … I do not know … I’m already rather rusty Twain’s works, but the fact that it is an unrealized dream of childhood, I fully agree.
Preparatory work
Thus, the scheme raft drawn by during an emotional debate ideas crooked stick in the sand, migrated to AutoCAD drawings. In this case, has been studied plotostroiteley a similar experience on the Internet, as well as some of the material on the route, as none of us on Kachug never was.
As carriers (floating) elements are used mainly plastic bottles of the camera truck. But we have rejected the first because of their large number and the lack of time for their harvest (collection), and the latter because of the high prices. As a result of staying on metal 200 liter barrels, which is however, not regretted Schork them over the rocks on the numerous shoals. Not without difficulty all 8 essential barrels were collected and sent to Kachug on associated timber transport. Also, the advance were prepared under oars, metal tripod, trivet from the cut 200 l drums, ropes, tent of the banner and a bunch of other useful things needed in this journey. Because for us it was the first experience of boating, we felt it necessary to consult the GIMS. Inspector to hear where and what we are going to put it mildly, surprised at the question of registration, navigation on this site purely nominal. However, the recommendations were given safety, we have tried to do (life jackets, luggage, rope, flashlight). Unfortunately, the register of emergency and rescue services, we have not had time. And finally, for a little bit of orienteering maps printed pieces (images from Google), marked a few towns along the river and the distance between them. The evening of 12 July, we in two cars almost completely packed with junk left from Irkutsk.
The construction of the raft
Monday (July 13) was completely devoted to the construction of the raft. A little bit about his design: the size of 3.0 * 5.5 m, main bearing element was the wooden frame of the forty, the longitudinal ribs connected cross members, which also served as stops for the barrels. All connections are made on the screws. Since the place of assembly to the shore of the Lena was 300-400 m, and the frame of the raft is not easy design, it was decided to make it a collapsible four separate sections (for 2 drums) joined together by bolts (photo 1). Barrels stood right between the longitudinal ribs (photo 2) and below were tied with plastic tape is used for mounting boxes for cargo transportation (in the right quantity were taken on w / e the ways in Creek). The frame with the barrels after a preliminary adjustment in parts was transported to the shore (photo 3), gathered together and launched (photo 4). Solid floor of inch single was fixed already in the water.
All of our romp with a raft aroused great interest among the locals, Uneven company from little old ladies to rebyatni located in the area of the bridge over the Lena and was looking forward to when these kooks finally set sail. However, the departure time was pushed all because of technical improvements, the prolonged loading and cumulative fatigue. The audience, in desperation, slowly dispersed, leaving only the most persistent.
The first kilometers (miles)
Finally, around 8:00 pm last belongings were thrown to the deck (photo 5), and we awkwardly working Grebe and poles, pushed off from the shore under the laughter mourners and “Farewell of Slav” (photo 6). It is then we will become true “sea (river) Wolves”, one hand approaching the shore and easily avoiding various obstacles. But now our disorganized team tried unsuccessfully to align the raft, which seems only he lived his slave life, and it suited him well. Finally fatigue won, we gave up, threw the paddle and sat on the deck (photo 7). Beer, carefully stored in a cardboard suitcase rarity, helped restore a bit of strength and peace of mind. Raft in the meantime found acceptable to his position and slowly slid down the river. The flow velocity seemed so small that we somehow doubted that will be able to go the distance to the planned end of the week. Behind the scenes were all Kachug, finally waved mourners, overtaken us by car and is located on the suspension bridge, and all – forward towards the unknown (photo 8).
Walked a few miles away, was assailed by midge (very useful combined with a mosquito nets), it was getting dark. Chose a convenient place and not easily approached. Bonfire, barbecue, a small dose of “fire water” for a good start. Canopy has not yet been made, and had to spend the night with no amenities: on a raft under the banner and on land, covered with polyethylene. Somewhere on the other side is a children’s camp, loud music was played at the disco, but the fatigue accumulated during the day, has had an effect, we are disconnected, barely covering his eyes.
The second day (July 14)
The day was sunny, washing up, we decided to move off immediately and cook breakfast on a raft. To do this, on the banks of the cut in the trivet barrels poured 10 cm of the soil and put it in the corner of the raft, so our focus has a permanent position for the entire route. The next stop was planned famous reserve “Shishkin pisanitsa” with ancient petroglyphs, the distance from place to sleep for about 20 km. In my opinion, natural landscape in this segment is one of the most beautiful Lena is replete with numerous bends, rocky shores of red sandstone (photo 9-11). A highway runs away from the river, and the seats seem to be more wild, despite the proximity of the district center. In support of this rather rare bird – the black stork, listed in the Red Book (photo 12). Breakfast is ready, the weather is glad everything is going as planned. Rubber boat tied side raft Skidan there a part of things, freeing the deck. Relaxed in conversation, came close to the shore and branches of bushes overturned bucket of boiling water, luckily no one was hurt. The first time stranded, barrels grated unpleasantly on the rocks. It should be noted that the depth of the river to Zhigalovo mostly not exceed human growth. And while we were at high water, several times a day, met the ambush site.
By lunchtime, to approach the petroglyphs Shishkin, stop short, not climbed the rock. However, in the last stage of the journey had seen plenty of modern petroglyphs with the text of “Here was John of …” to “Hello from some sailors of the fleet” (what they are doing there is a mystery). Well represented not only the geography of the area, but also the entire country.
Continue the path, trying unsuccessfully to fish, spit on this occupation and decide zamastryachit necessary furniture. After a while, ready to table and two benches, hooray, now sail in comfort. On the way to the Upper Lena again sit stranded (Photo 13) to continue driving normally enough time to throw overboard the bodies of passengers weighing at least 270 kg.
Finally Verkholensk – the largest village on our way. Leisurely sneaking along the coast, irritating local dogs are thrilled with the appearance of a floating bridge and consider furbished old cathedral – the main attraction of the village (photo 14). We know that the path we have to go through three pontoon bridges, but how it will look in nature, were with difficulty. The main problems were over, the presence of large debris under the bridge and tensioned steel cables of setting section. But this time, our fears were unfounded: for in the end spans of the bridge was almost zero, it was a bit rubbish, and we slipped neatly between the sections, not even getting off the raft.
Night is falling, you need to look for a place to stay overnight. We toss a few words with a boat sailing by local peasants, who check the network. In response to a phrase that fishermen unimportant and so we did and were not able to catch the boat from a distance of 3 meters to the deck flies large flax – a present for dinner (photo 15). Approaches, preparing dinner in the dark canopy of the city. Sleep under a roof over your head certainly interesting, chop off instantly, the day was very busy.
Day Three (July 15)
Cellular communication all the way missing. The handset is turned off to conserve the batteries, and watch no one. We woke up at dawn, gathered, cast off. After breakfast we decide to see the time, turn on the phone, e … – seven hours. It turns out, got about five, but quite enough sleep, that’s what it means to sleep in the open air. It is foggy, are heard in the silence of the rare bursts of large fish.
Meet periodically tributary of the Lena rather large streams, the noise from them can be heard from afar. The speed of the river is slightly increased, note the time on the marked section of the route on the map: it turns around 3.5 km / h
Almost constantly blowing headwind, but our raft heavy construction and barrels, buried on 2/3, perfectly fulfill the role of “water sail” – and on the velocity of the wind has no effect (but a positive effect on reducing the number of insects).
Starts to rain, briefly grew into a real downpour, we have to get some warm clothes (that’s you and July). Weather Verhnelenskih areas can be very different from Irkutsk. We rejoice as children that passed the night overcame laziness and put a canopy (photo 16). Now, sitting at a table under an awning, you can safely over a glass of tea to watch the vagaries of weather and passing scenery (photos 17-19). Pontoon bridges will not come today, you can relax.
The road follows the river and periodically emerges from the bushes. Timber trucks passing by honking taxis and, in response, we also happily waving their hands.
Rain had stopped for dinner, and even the sun peeps, but the sun today is clearly not necessary. Again, unsuccessfully trying to fish, made “ship” clocked “flies” of different breeds and colors. But tastes Lenca obviously have not guessed, apparently, fish is a good idea only caught on the network. Great pecking Galyany only along the coast to the worms.
Lena, thanks to the flowing rivulets and streams, it becomes much wider. From time to time come across a duck with a brood, who are trying to keep us from a safe distance, again saw a stork. The villages are rare, most of them live only a few families. And on the right and the left banks of the many abandoned huts with rickety cabins, which seem to recall that once there was life.
Choose a long parking lot, resulting moors to the island. A bird (or bat) all night loud and nasty peeps in the bush near the raft, everyone is ready to tear it in his nightmares, but getting up for retribution would not be desirable.
The fourth day (July 16)
Yesterday’s weather is gone, the day is expected to warm. A feeling that only now is the long-awaited state of relaxation. Heat, life adjusted, swim and enjoy. It was only ever encountered the island on the way (20 photos) do not relax (raft somehow always bears directly on them), it is sometimes necessary to take up the paddle. Still missed the point and firmly stranded (photo 21). Today, however, it seems unnecessary distraction and the possibility to go to the beach (photo 22).
In the evening there is some tension, as the front of another bridge between the villages and Vorobievo Ponomarevo. Maps on this site is not, Lena sharp winds, visibility is not quite straight. And because there is a regular rotation of the crossing. Near the new bridge is being built out of steel. Rowing at random to the left bank. Yeah, you do not Verkholensk, the flow between the pontoons are much more serious, the coastal areas are inundated with large debris. Dashing daring explorers somewhere disappears, it becomes a little uncomfortable, approach, go see the surrounding area. Suitable feral builders who welcome all the events taking place on the river, offering to throw the raft crane. But we refuse to proudly … of course, only because of the reluctance to partition a mass movement on the bridge and the risk of damage to the raft. What to do? -That there is no place to retreat. De-coiling ropes, oars and remove canopy. One on the raft, two shore-etched ropes. Slowly moving, lifting or pritaplivaya cables of the bridge, building on the protruding beams and reinforced concrete. It’s now all seems pretty simple and straightforward, but believe me, keep the raft weighing about a ton, which is a rate of slightly less than 1 m / s, very difficult. The following year, the bridge is not likely to be the builders promise a new finish.
Minimum program to date is made necessary kilometers passed. Last night on the river tomorrow and finish another bridge.
Day Five (July 17)
Morning, after a few kilometers, starts to catch Cellular, confirming the proximity Zhigalovo. Follow-up calls and home thrashing from home (they are not even suspect that the four days of us will not be any news). Place over the plains, the river winds through meadows and mowing. The bridge in the village of Tutura seen from afar (photo 23), the first flight for the passage of no good, but the experience has increased and more coolly crossing overcome even have time to take some pictures (photo 24).
Until Zhigalovo only 6 km, on the joys of drink all the remaining beer and almost flew past the end point. Located in the middle of the beach (photo 25), the last time preparing lunch on a raft and begin the dismantling (photo 26). Raft and luggage completely beaten body ZiL. All the trash that had accumulated during the journey, disposed of in the trash of the settlement.
Not at pokrivlyu soul, if I say that the most extreme part of the trip was way back in Kachug on night road. Numerous pits and potholes, which may fall out of the seal, the dust from the machines, which creates a continuous curtain for a few minutes, blinding headlights of oncoming traffic, solid turns and tripping … fatigued could not overcome the periodic release of adrenaline, we did not close the eyes for 2.5 hours all the way.
All …, sauna, sleep, and home tomorrow.
Epilogue
So, covered about 160 miles in four days. Despite the fact that this section of the river there is no extreme, and the alloy can be considered practically a box, all the same, this idea requires quite a serious and deliberate training. In general, very quiet Lena changes the character of a bad weather and floods. Let’s hope that this report will be useful for those who want to pass this way. Recreation success, we have set a goal and went this route, getting a lot of positive emotions and expanding his knowledge of the geography of his native land. And let envious of those who refused to make a company or twisted his finger to his temple. Raft, disassembled waiting in the garden next Zhigalovsky launching. Maybe next year we zamahnemsya the route Zhigalovo – Ust-Kut, longer, more desolate and wild, and this is perhaps more interesting. And maybe again go through the same route, because in pursuit of kilometers had a lot to miss.
In conclusion, as in the end credits of the movie, I want to express all our gratitude to the company:
– Zhdanovs family for welcoming haven in Kachug, assistance in purchasing lumber and construction of the raft;
– Family Butkovyh for PHOTOCHRONICLE training and assistance in the construction of the raft;
– Verkholenskaya peasants for the fish;
– Family Bystrov for the heartfelt welcome to Zhigalovo help to disassemble and transport craft our tired, but satisfied bodies back to Kachug.
Source: Angara.Net
Translation: Google