Marching season ended, summer red, golden autumn gave way to a dull bad weather with rain, gradually turning into sleet. Fall off-season – for me it is time to summarize the past season. So now once more be happy to remember the events of last summer, bright colors that have remained in my memory.
Rafting with the Upper Lena – this route is preparing slowly, very carefully, because this was a “pipe dream” of the last years of our entire team. Amicable and proven people, necessary equipment, the careful study of the route, support for emergency services, the organization of visits to the protected area of the Baikal-Lena Reserve and the request from the heavens for good weather – everything was accounted for and put together. Only five of us, “packaged” to all and sundry, the catamaran “Big Inzer” on our own, courtesy of a burden shoulders. As our boatswain: “A shoulder at us, hoo, wide!”. In addition to the alloy itself, being on the route we have learned about the many interesting and even mysterious places. And, of course, in my story, and I certainly remember about them.
July 7, 250 km from Irkutsk, we are already on the lake, in the port of the IFA. Rebooting on the boat such as “Yaroslavets” under the glorious name of “Breaker”, we continue our way on the lake almost due north, to an area called Zama. Each time, after time, he found himself on the lake, feel a sense of something unusual and unknown. “Man always took aback at the sight of the lake, because it did not fit within his view: Baikal lay not where something like this could be, was not what they could be, and acted on the head other than acting” normal ” nature. This is something special, unusual and exceptional “- so aptly VG Rasputin. Our proud “Burun” under the cry of gulls famously cut the nose of the emerald water, carrying farther from civilization. What a grace around: we are moving through the deepest lake in the world, and overhead bottomless “fifth ocean” – the blue sky.
Zama. Beautiful, extensive alluvial plain meadow. Her name is associated with giving. When the ancestors Olkhon Buryats in the 17-18 centuries. settled on the shore of Lake Baikal, the path to the north of them blocked the mountain. They shouted, “Zam ungeree”, which means the road ended, and laid the settlement. From the village Zama pass through the old road leading to the gold mines and Ilikty Right on the river. Chanchur (left tributary of the Lena River). This road in 1990 on the shore of Lake Baikal Kachug passed rally «Camel Trophy». Rises above the plain cape Aral, which in ancient times was an island. At the top of the cape remains of the ancient Kurykanskaya outpost, surrounded by a stone wall (6-11 cc. District. E.). Iconic, magical place.
Overnight, the second day of the journey we are on two boats “Yamaha” and “Alyumokraft” with the breeze moving to Cape Solar (deceased). Beauty. On the left side after the Primorsky ridge narrow strip extends to the floor of Lake Baikal Baikal Mountains. It clearly looked through the dissected form alpine terrain as steep cliffs and deeply incised river canyons and valleys. Right on. Olkhon and its most northerly point – Cape Khoboy. He further and further remains “astern”. The coast was clear, no wind, the sky turned over to the mirrored water, and only our presence violates this great calmness and tranquility. And here is the grim Cape Ryty.
Cape Ryty (Hyr Khushun) refers to sarkalnym places Baikal. According to ancient Buryat legends Ryty is “scary and sacred place” where live the angry gods, sons of gods Uher, sending strong winds. It registered the repeated catastrophic debris emissions into the lake gryazekamennyh streams with trees and turf. River Valley reserves depressing. There is often a lightning strikes the ground, and in winter in front of the Cape every year there is a crack in the ice Stanovaia. Cape pitted with narrow, winding ravines, hence the name of the cape – Ryty. The river valley is considered to be among the Buryats sacred and forbidden to visit. There are ancient rules: do not visit this place women and men leave there the insole of the shoe. If you wander up the valley livestock, no one dares to chase him out of there.
A little more and we are leaning “nose to the ground,” to approach the Cape Sun. Autotechnical part of the route is over. Place of amazing beauty. The human eye can distinguish ten million colors and, perhaps, all the variety of colors gathered in the turquoise water of Lake Baikal, shimmering in the rays of the evening sun. Picturesque rocky shore with fanciful shapes and caves. Bottom as in a magnifying glass, can be seen in every detail. Flocks of grayling rapidly rushing in depth, finally flashed silver sides. There is a cordon reserve “Coast of brown bears.” The nature of their eternal lives, measured life, here she did not have no one to defend themselves and “lick their wounds”. Taking a pair of binoculars, consider seals. Apparently, sailed with Ushkaniye islands where their permanent rookery. The islands are located right in front of us on that side of the lake. They were dark Holy Nose Peninsula, Chivyrkuisky Barguzinsky and bays. It is believed that it was here, on the contrary Barguzinsky Bay is located on the widest part of Lake Baikal 79.5 km. It is interesting that every year it is getting wider. The research of recent years has allowed geophysicists to hypothesize that Baikal is a nascent ocean, as its banks diverge at a rate of 2 cm per year, like the continents of Africa and South America.
Tomorrow will be a hard day tomorrow, we have to climb a mountain pass in the valley of the river Lena. Today, we are just happy that we’re here, that a clear sky above his head. Today the Moon and the planet-satellite traced its light on the surface of the lake Quaking moonlit road. Perhaps, in this way no one has walked. Here we are, as a matter decided that surely will be back here.
Baikal-Lena State Reserve, located on the northwest shore of Lake Baikal, organized in 1986, its territory in 1996 included in the UNESCO list of World Cultural and Natural Heritage of the planet. This is the largest conservation area in the Lake Baikal. Its area is 660 hectares. The reserve includes 110 km of coastline on p. Hreym to Cape Elokhin, impenetrable plot Baikal Mountains and the upper reaches of the Lena River and its tributaries. According to the Cape Elokhin the border of the Irkutsk region and the Republic of Buryatia. Nature Reserve – a wild and dense taiga. This is the highest number of bear mainland and not without reason one of the forest areas called “Coast of brown bears.” There are rare birds: White-tailed eagle, black stork, hawk-nosed scoter, Ogar, gray cranes.
Morning, the sun, the weather whispers. Harsh rule – who long sleep, he is in a dream, has not been canceled. We are mobile and easy going. After breakfast, finally finishing off the tent and bedding for the most “do not want” our backpacks and more time looking back with gratitude on sparkling Lake Baikal, measured start our motion to pass. The trail starts right from the meteorological station located on the shore of Lake Baikal. At first it is flat, but then goes into a deep canyon Solntsepad who nicknamed so because of the glare of evening sun setting over the mountains Pribaykalskoye. His fading and lost in the evening twilight rays for some time sanctify sparkling shore of Lake Baikal. Here in the canyon begins huge rock slides and, consequently, the tedious heavy lifting. Throughout the climb, only two of the stream and then the other is located at the pass. Reloading a complete, usually twice will wear gear, but we decided – we’ll do in one fell swoop. After all, the boatswain unequivocally said: “My feet at us, guys, hoo, strong!”. Boatswain’s talking! Now puffing like a locomotive, burning calories and with every hour becoming slimmer. And yet – better to wear out than rust!
Whenever a gift to us on the path we find a small viewing platform from which, looking back, you can admire the arching crescent of Lake Baikal, and taking a heavy load, to breathe deeply all its vastness.
More than once we climbed the mountain passes and ridges of the Baikal Mountains. And every time I pass achievement – an exceptional event, the emotional, the apotheosis of the upward movement. And as always, the long-awaited passage appeared quite unexpectedly opened before us a vast valley of the Lena River with three canals and a group of small lakes. Behind spread over half the world Father Baikal. At the top of the pass is round, a lot of records in all languages of the world. In one note read, “I am here for the second time, impressions are the same, ie awesome! “. Amazingly, the river is not broke just a few tens of meters to connect with Baikal. The hypothesis that the seal fell into the lake from the northern seas, has become quite obvious to me. Here and there on the flat tops of the mountains seen patches of snow, up the river all year round glacier lies.
Separately, it should be said about the origins of Lena. Latest satellite images of the study allowed to determine the genuine source and establish a place where the key is making its way out from under a stone ridge. So at an altitude of 1503 meters above the ocean level, among the low ridges and mountain pines in the sedge and sphagnum moss-covered swamp begins, cut through from south to north almost the whole of Siberia river Lena. The river length of 4472 km and a basin area of 24,250,000 km. square, occupying the length of the third largest Asian rivers Russia (after the Ob and Yenisei) and eighth in the world. With huge energy reserves, with a delta of 30,000 square meters. km, exceeding its size, even a huge delta of the Nile, and 20 times the delta of the Volga. Its source – the seven streams onto a large width of 15-20 cm and a depth of 3-5 cm, such Lena in his cradle. Brooks joined in twos and threes, and soon come together. Lena reaches meters wide and several centimeters in depth. In 1997, the source of the Lena marked a wooden chapel in honor of the 250th anniversary of the birth of St. Innocent – a native of the village of Hanga Kachug district, later canonized. Lena’s main power, as well as almost all of its tributaries are melted snow and rain water, so they are in the permafrost zone. Below Yakutsk Lena takes two of its major tributaries – the Aldan and Viluy. Now it’s a giant stream of water, even where it is one channel, its width reaches up to 10 km, and the depth of 16-20 m above the same place, where many islands, Lena bottled at 20-30 km. The river banks are harsh and deserted. Approximately 150 km from the confluence of the Laptev Sea, a vast delta of the Lena begins. The Arctic Circle, on 74 degrees north latitude ends its way great Siberian river.
The first information about the river migrated to the Russian, who lived in Siberia, in the early XVII century. To the east one after another sent small detachments of Cossacks who did the exploration of unknown territory. In 1628 came a long way from the Cossack Vasili Knoll squad. Climbing up the Angara, Ilim they went from there, “walking foot” crossed the watershed and the river Kuta came to Lena. In a few years this way repeated centurion Peter Beketov. His detachment found in the mouth of Kuta’s first home. Thus began the city of Ust-Kut, where later explorer Erofei P. Khabarov becoming the first salt works. In 1632 put Yakut jail. Later members of the 2nd Kamchatka Expedition (1733-43) conducted research Lena and its tributaries.
Penetrating the pass a little further, we leave to the confluence of the three flow in one direction. Great place to spend the night and early alloy. Judging by the organized fireplaces, so we thought not only! At night there was frost, frozen water in kettles, tents zadubeli, all the vegetation around the frozen droplets. In the rays of the rising sun drops sparkle, but soon disappear under the breath of the sun’s heat and wind. By noon starting to put our battle ship – four catamaran. Well, that brought a catamaran with a fully modular frame, as appropriate for the construction of the trees is not in sight. Vegetation and is a little stunted, one word – tundra, where the height, the cold and the wind and do their thing. After a few hours of creative work comes the solemn moment of the descent of the water and the catamaran otchalivaniya.
The cargo is securely fixed to the deck, put on life jackets and knees in the stirrups, paddle in hand, the operator is ready to shoot. Prompt for grabs and we are directly involved in the work. A boatswain uttered: “We can not be led astray, but right now we paddle!” Boatswain’s got a point, the river will lead to the right place. Rowed 25 minutes chalimsya impassable waterfall and a run-out on the left bank, where the water breaks with a crash on the spray.
Once again, the oars, the river does not relax. Water small, have to be especially careful when passing thresholds for narrow corridors, many small rapids. Lamellar structure of the cliffs, so the banks and even on the bottom of the river a lot of sharp rocks. Thresholds are cascades in several pieces. When planning a route once laid the margin of time in two days. And one day they decided to use for the survey of the Lena River and fishing. After all, this is the most difficult and interesting places, and rafters are usually fascinated by the alloy, slip them in one fell swoop. A lot of take videos, take pictures. For the story there is no need to go far, they beg the lens.
And in the next few days was a fight! Who knows what the alloy in the upper reaches of the mountain rivers, that will understand me. Who knows, let one try, and I hope, too, will understand! Each day, the alloy is a small victory over himself. On his “I can not”, “fail”, “may suffice.” And, in general, the success – it is a journey, not a destination.
Growls and bubbles in the upper reaches of the river.
Cuts on the cliff.
Here, only the full and to end.
We ourselves have taken the challenge!
In the cascade of rapids examine ourselves
Paddles we will be like the wings.
Hey, right on the bot, do not be sorry-ka-fire!
And the thunder stones like the song!
On the fortieth kilometer from the start of the alloy, according to sailing should fall river. Little Lena. Slipped her still arguing about where she was. This is the last place you can go down the path to the shore of Lake Baikal, and, generally, to the people. Next there is no trail, you can move only along the river, around which many wetlands. So now we have a ticket in one direction only. As said the boatswain, “do not throw the wounded, take no prisoners!” Boatswain’s talking! Around the dense taiga. We know that in this area inhabited by a large population of bears. Smart and cautious animal feeds now mostly vegetarian diet. We are not armed (spinners do not count), so we try a little more to make noise, not to accidentally run into him “face to face”, and that we can successfully. We’ve five, it’s like gromyhnut “fist on the table.” Perhaps we are too loud, ognennodymnye and just taste good, because for all 11 days of our rafting, we’ve seen a lot of signs around his presence, but never himself. That slavnenko! That’s good! Although, if you carefully raft in silence along the bed of the river, then around the corner you can easily see at a watering moose with calf or deer. Almost everywhere, in every creek ducks with ducklings. They are frightened by the unprecedented multi-colored “beast” with four legs and five heads, scratching “on foot” in front of the catamaran on the river until you guess hiding near the shore.
The average pass 30-40 miles a day. On the sixth day of the thresholds over. The river starts to zigzag turns surprisingly similar to each other. And sailing on the map attached very difficult. Would help the GPS-navigator, but nothing river sooner or later will bring, you just have to work more fun paddle. And then the boatswain said, as snapped: “Taran weapons heroes!” Oh what we do know is that the boatswain’s got a point, and therefore rowing as energetic hares on batteries Durasell.
Notes from traveling diary: “The seventh day of the journey. Slept well. Dreaming potatoes with butter and chop. Lost track of the days. Left a couple of loaves of bread, we do not need the money. This conclusion last night by the fire. A need: bread, meat, fishing, sugar, woman, and that there was no midges and mosquitoes. “A day to determine their location, they decided to do a day’s rest. At last, we have time to organize a real bath. Today, we are to “bone” steamed birch twigs, with all the fluff flops in cold water Lena. I guess it’s funny how on the beach with wild cries of delight worn five naked men. Today, we are clean and indecently funny, in short, the guys – no matter where!
On the river began to appear a lot of debris timber. One Kura constant already for many years is the same location. It cut through the tunnel for those who floated in canoes, but we did not go through sideways, so again unload and obtaskivaem left bank of the dam.
Gone left tributary. Anai, then p. Chanchur a suspension bridge across the Lena and semi-abandoned village on the shore.
Here, then, we meet with a very interesting person, local historian, curator Trapeznikov Vladimir Petrovich. This middle-aged, but very energetic, goal-oriented person told us about his firm intention to establish in the source of the Lena stone obelisk of consecrated the church bell in honor Kurbata Ivanov, the Russian explorer, who with his party first came to the shores of Lake Baikal. Vladimir was very pleased to learn that we are from the 2nd of Irkutsk, where the Irkutsk aircraft factory. Asked to help with the manufacture of bells in our company. He noted with gratitude that one aircraft factory has assisted him.
After a week of alloy there is a feeling that this is – just our life. Everyone knows their job: someone is responsible for a fire someone for cooking, organizing accommodation, freshly caught fish. Plus, as a bonus, zalihvastsky, deterrent whistle, do not abate laughter and laughter raznogolosnye songs without accompaniment, but almost always “encore”. Which is conveniently located at the evening fire flame, I catch myself thinking that does not want that our dashing rafting life came to an end. But the river, obey the laws of physics, not so fast, but nevertheless true, carries us to the final destination – the village spillikin.
Here we are waiting for a minibus with Sergei Skripkin at the wheel to return to Irkutsk. After all, we believe there and wait. Back in his native city of happy wanderers who startanuli here 11 days ago with full of hopes and desires backpacks. And all of us, returning to the starting point of the route and rewind through the Siberian land almost 1,000 km, we close the circle and once again prove that the Earth is round. From the madding crowd, we now head flushed the peace and quiet, easy cleaned of soot and exhaust oxygen taiga wind, stomach, disinfected and filled with spring water of the Baikal Mountains, extra fat and tosksiny burned at the oars and kilometers traveled, and germs on the body just died under hot sun and our tans (although, as noted by the boatswain, there is a suspicion that we just do not see them!). No wonder they say, the tourist people live longer!Most researchers believe that the name of the Lena River – is altered Russian Tungusic “Өlүөne” (Yeh-lii-Ene), which means “Big River”. But for some reason it seems to me that in the upper reaches of the Lena still looks more like a girl, with such fluffy eyelashes and hair braided blond braids, and we are on them for so long, long time circling. With sparkling beads around his neck, like rivers and streams, playfully replenishing its turquoise waters. With shining like the sun, eyes that every day delighted and dazzled us. And even with freckles, like the stars that twinkle in the night sky. Here’s a you, Lena!
All this splendor is amazing region remains in our memories and in the photo and video material that has been processed and turned into a fascinating film. It will take its rightful place in the collection of our films on Sobolinoye Lake, Fr. Ilchir location, Munku-Sardyko, p. Irkut, Fr. Lake Baikal and be reminded of the glorious time we were together, “in a bundle” on the route. Me and our entire team, it would be interesting to exchange views, ideas and material to those who are interested in the factory organized rest on the water, as well as the alloy.
At the end of the story will name the names of the alloy, who was there, shoulder-to-shoulder with the oars “at the ready” in capable hands: Safonov Vyacheslav (Slava simply, cheerful and funny) Polovinsky Dima (thoughtful and observant), Kapitonov Leonid (trouble-free and restrained ), Leo Demidov (just Loew, experienced and catchability). I also want to thank the Irkutsk regional branch of the party “United Russia” in the person of Vladimir Konovalov Pezhimskogo and Andrew for their support and for providing equipment.Having been in an unspoilt corner of the reserved nature, I am once again convinced of the need for the utmost discretion and respect for her. There is no doubt Nature sooner or later, in one form or another will bring back all their debts with interest. And we, who live here, we can be pleased that there are a mighty Lake Baikal is the great Siberian river Lena, which flows into the Arctic Ocean far. His route to their desire and kilometers traveled, we, nevertheless, put them together. “Roads and thresholds will be enough for everyone” – looking back with a smile boomed boatswain. Yes, as always, the boatswain’s talking!
Source: Irkutsk fishing forum Mayak
Translation: Google
