I remember how my boat sank. Big waves. Up and down, up and down like a roller coaster, then watch the sky, then fly down to the waves. Two or three waves pass thus covers next to your head and you feel submariners, as a matter of seconds the boat is under water. Scary at all.
Pumping water out of the boat broke another station Post (slots in the impeller Stoch. Bastards, do so fragile, unreliable things.) Sasha Pavlov pumps water manually. It turns slowly, the boat filled with water. Went to the beach. At this time, the motor cuts off, as it turned out later, Sasha drain the water accidentally disconnected the battery weight. It was only later, examining the flights on the shore, we found out the reason. And then I could not even imagine it to check the switch mass. Adrenaline raging matrix peremat. Marine loses control, Sasha jumps overboard, the benefit we’re almost near the shore. I’m trying to draw water bucket, but it is useless, we are transom to a wave – one bucket I pour out of the boat, at the same time in a boat filled with 10 buckets. To drag the boat to the shore is not obtained, prevents motor lowered, rocky bottom. When he realized that the boat can not save, save things started. Importantly, kept dry passport fotonakopitel all files with the expedition. Everything else – camera, binoculars, all things, food, in short everything was under water. The consequences of this flood long made themselves felt . My camera, SONY NEX- 5, which I presented myself at the new, 2011, alas, was not subject to repair. This sad news was told to me later in Yakutsk.
I’ve always said that I – a happy man. As if by magic, suddenly out of nowhere appears Puteiskiy boat 405. Rope tied to the boat, pulling her to him, lifted, water is drained from the board. And the boat is already on the boat. When loading torn duck boats, motor slightly damaged, but all this stuff. Decided to “Progress” to leave the station “Lena-Nordenskiold” is very close, 3-4 kilometers below.
Sasha Pavlov unexpectedly leaving us, he decides to get to the “Ways of Communication” to Tiksi and work there in the archives of the seaport. Well, it’s his decision, his choice. In general, he swims, we remain on the shore. In surprise. Friends gave me dry things, I warmed up alcohol, taking him a fair amount inside. Fine. All are alive and well. About two hours later, and it was already 4:00 am gathered all(!) Things on the boat and slowly Glory went to the station. When approached to Lena – Nordenskiöld only felt that there are no forces, squeezed like a lemon and emotionally and physically. No strength to even speak.
I dry the clothes
International Biological Station Lena Nordenskjold. My boat was unloaded “Puteiskiy” ashore mournfully dries up in the experience turmoil. We met Paul – the duty inspector station, conducted in advance for us flooded bath, we have not really wondering from wild fatigue, climbed onto the shelves in the steam room, feeling neither heat nor steam. Zombie frostbitten. Wanted only one thing – sleep, sleep, sleep. Sleep and forget this difficult day.
About the station. Part of dough invested to build the Swedish branch WWF – World Wildlife Fund. (remember the Panda logo) Therefore station was given the name of the Swedish polar explorer Adolf Erik Nordenskiöld, the first who was completely the Northern Sea Route. July 22, 1995 our President Mikhail Nikolayev and WWF President HRH Prince Philip, Duke of Edinburgh officially opened the station. Oh, sorry I was not on the discovery, it would be interesting to look at the prince ‘s face when he saw it. That built its huge money. (millions of dollars). They say Prince Philip cut the ribbon, spent half an hour and left. Never appeared. Money stolen without any conscience. The first station director Lena Nordenskjold committed suicide. Hung up on him all the looted money. Incidentally, dogonku. Next Director of the same station disappeared without a trace. Rather, then found the footprints that led to Lena. On the shore were neatly folded things – cap, boots, pants. Left on the boat a few people came without a chief, said he drowned. Something like this.
Than it is now engaged in the station is not clear. Previously, scientists still coming, gradually, over time, everything was faded, scientists began to dry up the flow. One time here come the children of Tiksi type children’s environmental camp. Now no children.
Boss.
Kitchen. Rather dining.
Morning inspected his boat. Twisted candles, spun the engine a couple of times, poured water from the air filter, changed the fuel. And! Oh, the expected miracle wound motor. Sneezed a couple of times and earned as much as if she had never tried water treatments. As the clock. Blah, Japanese fellows. Decided to go further, but the huntsman from the station we strongly dissuaded. The maximum that you will pass, say it 10 miles, then just not realistic. Storm will not start. Drown. So we stayed another 5 days at the station Lena Nordenskjold. And nothing to do, especially in the tundra do not resemble, and even gusty wind, knocks down, drizzle mercilessly strike the eye. Consciousness of complete inactivity, complete inability to get out of this situation – that was the hardest. When you realize that in this situation, anything from you is independent.
It’s cold.
After a few days, patience is exhausted, to hell storm, somehow go. Started collecting things in the boat. Passes by the indefatigable “Puteiskiy”. The captain came on the radio station with the words. “And where these dead gathered?” Ran polyarki director Vladimir Ivanovich, and says – keep fucking drown, age does not forgive, that did not stop you. And another day spent at the station.
As the sea. Only dolphins lacking.
Sasha Lee clambered all tundra near the station. Photos – it.
So lonely look these buildings on a background station tundra.
Children gathered the bones of ancient animals. These bones here very much.
Another wrecked helicopter. Rather, his remains.
Black Island. Once all ends sooner or later. That seemingly endless wind, which verse. To horse, or rather on the boats and on. Just drove off, the motor went from Slavin any problem, we lost each other. Our boat went some subtle protowhich thought popped up on the fairway, at least on the sailing course was specified. And that was our fault. After going 15 kilometers away saw the glacier. Headed for him.
Then the screw was hurt bottom ducts. Yeah, fine. First pulled one boat on melyam, then to help me and pulled Sasha Lee. (he went to my boat station after Lena Nordenskjold instead has left our expedition Sasha Pavlov) Do not Lie boots and it pushes the boat barefoot. Water ice. Absurd situation, I was sweating, and Sasha brings your feet from cold, Arctic pancake. In general, pushed five kilometers, there is still 15 kilometers to the line, turned, and five kilometers dragged the boat back. Where to go, no one will help. There’s just me, Sasha, endless ice water and the boat. These sites are not seen people probably several years, the same can not see.
Went to check how far reaching stranded. And he walked away to the horizon.
Barge Haulers on the Lena.
Pulled as boatmen. Prior to back pain, bruising on his shoulders, to the bloody blisters on his hands. Seen swans. They gracefully swam 20 meters away from us, not at all afraid. No strength once again to dive into the boat for the camera. Whew, took to the water, but that difficulties are not over. Send algae. When visitors come into the channel, the sun was shining bright, we passed Airboat and have not noticed yet another scourge – algae. As in the sea. When were burlaks, the sun disappeared behind the clouds, everything is gray, poor visibility, respectively planing do not go out, around the rocks. So screw you stacked whole stack of grass. Will pass twenty yards, lift motor, and there’s a whole shock of greenery. So go for another hour. Finally came to the big water. Exhausted but happy that you were in the fairway, flew. Rather, the “flying” so Sasha driving, I stand near the engine, looking up from the tent, because that something visible. Here in this situation, four hands, passed one of the most difficult rapids Lena Delta – “Dasha”.
Drastically increased wind. Decided to approach the shore, to wait until dawn, and then, suddenly the wind calms down. Boiled tea, concocted pasta with stewed meat. Meanwhile, the dawn. Look, there is a pusher, drags two barges loaded with coal. We fell in behind him in line, but after passing the 300 meters, had to come back to the shore. Wave hits the boat with the “head”. Describe these sensations difficult and complicated. Wave such that at first you see the sky, then the bottom of the river, then you slide down the wave again, you’re covering the next wave, and two or three seconds, your boat becomes a submarine. To hell with scuba diving. to shore. Again, wait until the storm is over. Until Bykov cape, to the Laptev Sea only some 20 kilometers. Reach, but alas. The worst part of this situation that we did not know where Glory and Marika. Where do they go back to the station, or wait and worry for us on the Cape Bykov? Gloomy thoughts.
Kindled a fire, sushimsya. Wind, fog, rolling in the drizzle. Suddenly, my peripheral vision I see even more feel that someone is me. Eshkin root! Glory! His bad weather forced to cling to the shore is just 400 meters from our camp. Fantastic! Incredible! It’s hard to believe it’s just unreal! There are miracles in the world! Disperse, lost among the endless Arctic, and eventually get back together. I have always said that we are happy.
Together.
Yearning.
Hedgehog in the fog.
Come to their camp, helped collect things crossed us. Pulled the tent and waited for the wind to subside. It took a half day. Then, as if someone is there at the top, waved a magic wand, the wind died down. In a way. In some few dozen kilometers is the Laptev Sea. The sea! The sea! The sea!
Incidentally, a few words about the name of this sea. The sea is named after the Russian polar explorers cousins Dmitry Laptev and Chariton. And earlier this sea bore the name Nordenskjold. (Adolf Nordenskiöld-Swedish geographer, Arctic explorer, navigator).
Hariton Laptev (1700-1763) with the task to describe the shore of the Arctic Ocean to the west of Lena came from Yakutsk to dubel-boat “Yakutsk” and got to the ocean, then, went to the river mouth Olenyok. Describing part of the mouth, went to Hatangsky lips, where he was detained by ice. He described the coast of Taimyr, Nordenskiöld Archipelago. Subsequently, the entire section called shore Chariton Laptev. Continued to serve on ships of the Baltic Fleet.
Bulls Cape. Laptev Sea. Finish. Everything. The last feature of our expedition “from source to mouth.” Rounded Cape, out to sea. Glory undressed symbolic bathing in the sea. I have a desire to have arisen, but the boat ran aground, had to go into the water to push. To cry, to shout, to congratulate each other. Then moored to the shore and went to the village.
Laptev Sea.
Empty shops, the price tag – just do not fit in the head. And this despite the official salary of 12-15 thousand rubles. The entire economy of the North turned on its head. It was said that two-bedroom apartment in a stone house sold for 12,000 rubles. But this 2-3 sack of potatoes, or 2 boxes of various canned goods. Barter-fish bag – 5 bottles of vodka, fish – petrol, fish clothing. Well, for the money and sell the same white salmon, 150-200 rubles – nelmy pounds, well, if you squeeze, the circuit one – vodka – fish. In fact, here stops circulation of the ruble.
To us to the bonfire approached the villagers.
Well, a little advertising.
Graveyard of ships.
A reminder. The border zone.
Monument to the Fallen Lithuanians and Finns.
Communication!
Near Cape Bykov is Tiksi. This is one of the largest settlements in the Russian Arctic. Tiksi translates as “shallow ” or “dock ” or “meeting”. The bay is located in the village used to be called Burned. So called her and mapped in 1739 Dmitry Laptev, when he saw the burning local coal deposits in the valley of the Gulf of Sogo. Tiksi Bay is about 44 kilometers long and 23 kilometers wide, and is separated from the ducts Bykovskaya isthmus width of 4 kilometers. The first permanent residents of the village Tiksi appeared in the early 20th century, the first weather station opened in 1932. In the same year appeared Main Directorate of the Northern Sea Route. Then came the war, the village became an important strategic center. Population in good times, reaching 20 000 people. Now the population of the village is a few scant thousand.
Stvor. Boarded the “Stvor.” The same ship that took our fuel to his board at the beginning of the expedition. Again, this ship, Captain again. Our benefactor – Kourdakov Krutkov team respectfully called him “Sanych.” On the way stop in almost every village. Everyone knows him, love and respect. To bag-parcel to the city transfer student-rascal who carry a barrel of gasoline who canister oil. In general, there is something to love and respect the captain.
Captain.
Loading our boats.
But along the way, and the sunken boat was pulled. Fishermen checking network wind blew sharply, did not manage to reach the shore, the boat sank. Benefit themselves were alive and well.
Everything is great , we are sailing home, but … and this “but” it was just unbearable. Ship is slow, going at a speed of 10-12 km per hour. Ie to Yakutsk we had to get through 10-12 (!) days. I bleed from the nose had to be on August 28 in Yakutsk (I have a ticket for this number), all the parameters on this vessel not fused. August 24 I went to Zhigansky order to fly the plane home. Plane ticket Zhigansk – wife bought me Yakutsk Yakutsk. Someone agreed, someone asked, I have not delved into the details, my job was to come to an airline ticket counter and pick up a ticket and fly out the next day.
But those plans went awry. Drizzling rain, washed away the earthen airstrip in the village, the flight was canceled. Blah, ambush. One hope for Meteor, which departs the next day. Especially because it is moored to the ship “Landmark ” in which I slept . So to speak, on the spot. On the “Landmark” I determined straight passed from hand to hand captain “target ” Sanych. All captains who ply the waters for decades our rivers know each other. Captain “Peg” – Tatarchenko Konstantin. Short, a man of few. Dad. For him, this ship is like a home. Due to family circumstances, let cook for a while the ship, so that Constantine and commanded and cook on the ship.
The vessel was built in 1959. And swims, and carries cargo properly. Imagine, for example, a motor vehicle in 1959, this is a rarity living on the streets for such cars look back, fingers show, and the river is normal, ordinary trucks. Although it’s still not normal. Ushatanny our entire fleet. So go old men puffing, but go.
Purchase ticket at the box office, too, was not simple. Local color decorates his life, special paint. Here everything is relative, there is no clear framework, rigid rules. It’s like posting on the door of the store in Cape Bykov: “Store does not work. Gone on vacation. “Ticket on the door, absolutely no ads or briefs. – It seems to be gone to the hospital, told me in the next room, where the administration Zhigansky Evenk National naslega. What do I do, just wait for the good time I had nowhere else. Three hours later, I was greeted by a happy and joyful coming cashier got my ticket. That’s it.
Ha, when the flight was canceled, I went back to take the ticket and, of course, saw the closed door. But. But! Progress. Note, “I will be 14-00”. Civilization there.
Black caviar in a store costs 4,000 rubles – 500 grams, officially sold in one shop Zhigansk. In Yakutsk, the same caviar worth 15,000 rubles per kilogram. With hands offer 3 – liter jar of caviar for 8000 rubles. In one of the shops of the village seen in the sale of frozen sturgeon costs 350 rubles per kg. And you these sturgeon brought from Yakutsk, I ask the seller. Seller is not understood my irony. After all, a real nonsense, not the market price. Price in Yakutsk , and in fact it Zhigansk where even the emblem painted sturgeon . Prey fish engaged the entire male population (and women help) sell fish for 50 rubles – a kilo.
Morning. 4-20. Passengers begin to run on the “Meteor”. Ruck people trample each other side, nervous, pass over the heads of bags, buckets, children. Children understand the importance of the moment and silent, feeling small bag of. People hang in clusters on the railing the crew yelling obscenities good, too zealous ottiskivaya ago. Fun. Climbed all the remaining space. All penetrations made buckets, bags, bales, drinking bottle and cans. BANNER deal with sturgeon capital going to the capital of the Republic, all there relatives, friends, children in institutions learn some fish as a present lucky someone as a gift. And turns the ship department Meat Fish food store.
Started. Cool. And here again popadalovo. Only departed from Zhigansk, caught in dense fog. Visibility is almost zero. Captain apparently walked through the old trail navigator, did not get up on the wing. Large Hedgehog in the Fog. Speed turtle, duck and understandable. Fog sold to 11 hours behind schedule at 4:00. Flight attendant spreading suhpay announced that likely will stay for the night because they do not settle in the light time. Blah, this is still not enough.
In a way “Meteor” 3-4 times suited to different vessels on the river, taking on passengers.
Tried borpitanie. Who collected apparently humorous person. Large portion of melted cheese and pate and a small bank stale bun. What that spread or just swallow spoonfuls pate and cheese.
The evening came. Dark. Then no longer visible nifiga. Darkness like a negro in there somewhere. The captain is on the luminous environment and on the navigator. This, of course, cool, it’s skill, but the risk is very high. A little more, a little more, and I’m home. End of the expedition. However, after 33 hours I fly from Yakutsk. Soon I will take a hot shower, jump on a soft bed with delicious-smelling sheets. Happiness. Farewell tent, sleeping bag, campfire with simmering kettle. Rather, goodbye. Until next time.
27.08.2011
P.S. Words Norwegian polar explorer Fridtjof Nansen – “While the human ear can hear the waves hitting the high seas as the human eye sees flashes of the aurora borealis over the silent expanse of snow, while human thought rushes to distant luminaries vast universe – until the dream of the unknown will entrain the human spirit forward and upward”.
Just good and good pictures.
Thirst for life.
My precious. My “Progress.”
Slavin boat.
Interesting picture. The best protection from the wind.
Catamaran Glory Levin. Rime. Lena in the Irkutsk region.
Somewhere in the Irkutsk region. Village near the river
It’s cold. End of September.
Irkutsk region. Captain Vladimir Fedorov and his super boat.
The upper reaches of the Lena River.
Peleduy. Our journey under sail.
Lena. District petroglyphs Shishkin. Irkutsk region.
The very beginning of of the Lena River. From coast to coast – one step.
Lenaneft. Life on the floor.
Ran aground. Had to throw off all the stuff from the boat to facilitate the the housing.
Dzhardzhan. Nicholas House.
Somewhere on the Lena.
Vilyuya estuary. A few minutes ago went bear.
In Yakutsk, I spent all my childhood in a house on the street Kalvitsa. This monument Kalvitsa. Pilot. In Sangare.
Well, you can read. Arctic Circle.
Thunderstorm.
Yeah, how long ago it was. Baikal region. The dead pass. Go to the source of the Lena. I, Vladimir Fedorov, Alexander Pavlov, Maria Ivanova, Slava Levin. (I have a thick and almost bald :))
Is our Lena.
Chapel near the source.
Everything.
Source: Dnevniki.Ykt.Ru
Translation: Google
