A year ago, I heard from one person that’s such a thing, they say time faster and faster gaining momentum year after six months, the day is over half an hour for half an hour. Tightens us all cycles of time. Inexorably. Not enough time, not enough catastrophically, 24 hours a day is very little. Month flies as one week. And it’s not ignorance or not respecting the basics of time management, not poor organization of their working or personal time, it does not exist, as there is no air while diving underwater, just suffocate. Sometimes this occurs because of the moments of despair, do not forget, do not miss, remember, remind, learn to run, meet, again not forget to run. Catch. Life goes on, flies.
So it took almost half a year after the completion of the expedition with the newspaper “Yakutsk evening” “From source to mouth”. First, just to keep his word. Year. After last expedition agreed with Maria Ivanova, chief editor “Yakutsk Evening” that I will not publish my post earlier essays newspapers. Marika finished his story about our stay. Once upon a time. It turned out great. Well, Marika – it’s aerobatics journalism. Then I discovered that something, designed, and with the head goes to work. Then he flew, swam, went on a journey. And, too, it was not until the publication of the posts.
But better late than never. And so I begin my story. In the expedition did some recording, after a bit corrected them and now, virtually unchanged, erasures and dopisok spread. It’s already past is history, and there is nothing all that brush. Such things have turned recording made at the knees. So there you go.
Almost like a seagull Jonathan …
Starting. Day of a marmot. 26.07.2011
Two days on the ship. Only this time, do not ship “Lenaneft” and the cargo ship “Captain Markov”. All repeats. Similarly as in the past year. Sit, are, maemsya,sticks out on the ship. From you do not depend. Ships waiting for some regular inspection. Checks are mostly meaningless, just for the record, officials fulfill their own bread. After the “Bulgaria” sank, a wave of inspections, officials of various departments operate on the principle: “Better perebzdet than nedobzdet”. And away we go … The crew used, especially not rumbling, I ruined, her mother about yourself, but what’s the point. Although, who knows, maybe need all these workouts.
Regular training verification. Teletubbies, a pancake.
Speaking of the team. The First Mate, ie a senior assistant captain named Valentina, no, not Valentin and Valentina. Valentina Lepilova. Woman, that in itself is unusual, remember, there is an old belief that the woman on the ship – unfortunately. Yes to all of these ships would commanders. Without shouting, without mats, quiet, somehow feminine, quietly, but all commands are executed unconditionally. Captain, the ship’s captain – Alexander A. Eder, quiet man of few words. Profesional. That says it all.
“Terrible” and charming First Mate vessel.
Part of the team. Captain – from left.
Cook rather cook on the ship – Sardana. Magician and the enemy. Wizard for the stomach, and the enemy, our stomachs, because you feel like your weight increases on the eyes. Tomorrow, lunch, dinner and afternoon tea. Gain extra pounds worth nothing. Everything is delicious, home-style. Pancakes, pies, juice, jelly, soup, fried fish, rice, etc. etc. As in the pioneer camp.
God cuisine.
The kitchen itself. My theme 🙂
To somehow make your hands and be useful to society (ship command), I asked for and Sasha Pavlov work in the kitchen. Peel potatoes, cut meat in general, helped our chef. The bread we bought in Yakutsk, unfortunately, had to be cut and dry on crackers – petrified. Pita bread, also bought in Yakutsk (shall keep silent about the manufacturer) all went all into the garbage, all moldy and turned green.
Meat soup and patties 🙂
Bucket of potatoes – easy. The other hand time is running faster.
Rehearse a scene from “Titanic”. DiCaprio – Sasha Pavlov, his girl – Sardana, cook vessel.
Course to the North. In the Arctic.
My boat loaded by a crane on a ship. To do this, it had all the gut, remove from it all that can be separated. And then, electric davit last effort, pyzhilas and stiffened when lifted from the water my beauty. Glory boat lift could not, had to tie her to the ship. There was a risk, of course, that it can cover a wave tighten under the ship, and other fears, horrors, but God spared.
My joy on board, I’m happy 🙂
Slavin attach boat.
All right. Goes behind the vessel, as a calf after mother.
July 31. Standing the whole day in Batamae is just below the mouth of the Aldan, overloaded with cargo barges to the vessel. Delirium. This could be done in the river port of Yakutsk. Blah. There are no words. Navigation in Yakutia 3-4 months, every day, every hour must be on the bill, and what I’ve seen – it’s not even a mess, it’s just wrecking, logistics rest, it is not there.
Transhipment of cargo from ship to ship. Winged floating crane.
All members of the expedition.
Boss “Yakutsk evening”, Chief Editor – Maria Ivanova, at the very beginning of our expedition, tyschschu years ago I strained her laugh, then I’m used to it, but this time it’s with nothing comparable laughter acted on me like energizer than Marika more laughs, the easier it becomes and the better for the soul.
Alexander Lisitsyn, aka Lee – photographer of the newspaper “Yakutsk evening” and just-pro photographer. Accumulated photographic expedition as much as it weighs itself. Next on the photo, Alexander Pavlov – also boss, chief editor of “Lenski conductor” maniac fan and rivers, seas, ships. Always smiling, even when he sleeps.
Slava Levin – SUPERBOSS newspaper “Evening Yakutsk”, rarely smiling. Philosopher. I in the frame, because working, keep the camera. 🙂
August 1. Gone Sangary. Village, where you can shoot horror, disaster movies, the whole entourage, all the scenery is available. When stopped mining coal, the villagers were left without housing and throwing work gradually left the Sangar. These houses are abandoned and lonely and scary looking his empty eye sockets windows. The village has a mobile, MTS, so passing by can make a couple of calls, the next town to mobile communications is 370 km, Zhigansky.
August 2. Gone island Agraphena. Threw into the water a couple of cigarettes, just in case. Well it, you never can tell. Last year, after of Agrafena plumped for a stranded boat that even lay on its side. The interesting thing, almost every Christian Russians, but at heart we are all pagans. Feeding the fire, river, land, ask the Bayan luck on sacred sites reserve cigarettes, coins, candy. And our fathers did we do, our children will also be provided. Strange island, not a pleasant place. All Agrafena left behind.
The picture was taken after the mouth of the river Aldan. The water is dirty, as if the water poured cement. It rains in the upper reaches of the Aldan passed.
In the cabin, found the magazine “News of Yakutia” for 2004. Smiled. Most of the main characters of this magazine today or sitting in places not so remote or under investigation, or just got out of most of these places.
Still interesting to reread the old press. Even when you read the one – two year-old newspaper, was compared with the ensuing reality, naive smile articles, empty promises, Joe Blow politicians. A newspaper or magazine 5-6 years ago (what a ridiculous word – old) so all the treasure of anecdotes. I have the habit, when I go to the bath steamed in-law in the Old Tobago, the steam room take a heap of old junk one or two newspapers, pripaslivo saved father. You sit in the steam room, and leaf through the history of sweat. Here, for example, MP 6 years ago something beautiful promises. Of course, did not. Here is one company advertises its service as some exclusive, now this service is standard and common. Funny look at advertising in those years. Childishly naive. And at that time, probably, was riding creativity. It is interesting to compare the prices of certain goods or services. Ah, time is running out … Okay. Distracted.
Passed the Arctic Circle. Barely visible white stele of the Arctic Circle.
And it is near. The picture was taken two years ago, in the last expedition.
Guys t-shirt left the newspaper “Evening Yakutsk.” Sasha Lee and our Nastya Longinov, participant last expedition.
In the night from 2nd to 3rd August last Zhigansk Thieu. Already being felt by the white nights. They were taken at 23-55. Why such accuracy? Because August 3 at the son’s birthday, and that’s when you will be waiting to congratulate on the holiday. One son reproached me that for several years I was not present for his birthday. And he was right. Then in the forest, the water, somewhere, not in Russia. Dad, damn …
Zhigansk.
August 3, we disembarked from the ship, opposite the place where according to our calculations stood before a military unit with huge radiolokatarami. Marika and two Sasha went to look for it in the forest, and Slava started to prepare their boats for the expedition, to pack. Farewell cozy and warm bed cockpit hearty cuisine, pancakes and cakes. Ship out.
Evening were the cordon hunter Nikolai Stepanov. Last year we got to this place and turned back. Nicholas – a man with a unique memory, with an encyclopedic knowledge. And about our river, and about the history and about politics, everything. After drinking “tea” under osetrinku and caviar set out. 20 km was the first overnight. The next day at lunch were Siktyahe.
Siktyah.
In Siktyahe perfect man, a local. Talking. Showing to the former church. Ahh, said there was a church, then made (it ‘s a tradition in Russia) club, then a warehouse, now generally abandoned building. I told him that ‘s supposedly in Zhigansky out what church otgrohali can and you will be erected in the village of the little church. So, this guy hit me when I said that it would be better not to Siktyahe church was built, and the mosque. ?????? Many Muslims? – I ask. No, just the order would be more bans more. May not be drinking as drinking and drink now. Drink without limit. After “Belenky”, as the entire North calls the ship “Mechanic Kulibin”, which is barter fish – vodka, in the villages, as they say themselves locals, no 3 days of Soviet power. The whole village is abuzz in the insole to the fullest. Propyutsya, then fish, and again until the next arrival of “Belenky”. That sort of thing – life.
She former church.
In any village jambs are suitable people offer fish, olenininu, bear meat, there is something else, in short, any fish, any meat.
By the way. The photo shows the fishermen come up with their own “remote” motor. Worn on the arm of gas hose, which connects to the stick. Everything. Guy steers and using such a device controls the gas. Cheap and cheerful.
Ship “Omoloy”, which brought a flood in 2001. Sad place. It hung up at different times of 3 teenagers. Drunk. After these stories with hatred look at “Mechanics Kulibina”. Although, it’s certainly not in it.
The first and the last fish. Siktyah. More caught nothing. Neither that day nor the next. Muddy water, then the storm. I never thought that in the lower reaches of the Lena spinning I do not need.
Kyusyur. Mecca fishermen. Notorious fact that in the formative years of Soviet power, red shot about 300 locals. Like as for sympathy white. And what can be sympathy. Well come to white settlement, took a conductor with a local, especially without asking, and women fish – fry meat made for soldiers. And where you will get. That sympathy for such a spread out. However, the shooting and was not human. Part simply and without frills drowned in Lake township, some hanged on the gallows, and some to save ammo, butt kroili skull. Ekonomschiki…
The settlement leaves a a painful impression, was once seen, in the Brezhnev era, to build something, life somehow rattled. Now those days are gone, gradually fell into decay. But there is a sidewalk. Necessity. Otherwise in bad weather you can drown in the mud. Another feature. All residents go to the polls boots. Other shoes they probably do not recognize.
And tratuary instead of asphalt roads and highways of the tiles.
The local kids.
Marika his notes, Sasha Lee photographer and Sasha Pavlov, has nowhere to put their energy goes to the village, and we, the captains, lazy, guarded boats.
Walk through the village feeling of being full owners of the village, a pack of dogs. They do not roam with feverish hungrily as urban dog, no, they go imposingly sedately, looking at us with a sense of indulgence, like that, damn, urban, well, so we Poselkovaya life.
Main Street.
Our boat. Things jammed to capacity.
Photos by Alexander Lee. By the way, in the nachel post, where two seagulls also his photo.
Shop in Kyusyur.
End of Part One
P/S And these unique pictures just from the old stages of the expedition.
Path to the source. Drag raft pass through the dead. Perhaps we are the first who did it.
And then swamps and marshes.
Here is the lake where our originates Lena. A meter from me Lena begins. Most, the very beginning.
And this is Lena.
And it is also Lena.
And this is the next stage of the expedition. Shishkin petroglyphs. That’s where the legs grow our emblem.
Now exactly the end the first part.
Source: Dnevniki.Ykt.Ru
Translation: Google
