Last forest. A few hundred kilometers range is one the Arctic tundra.
Bulun. I read in one clever book. “One of the points of historical development of the North- East – s.Bulun first jail, then the center of the circle and a huge area – almost turned his existence. Village not only the name, which gave the name of district. Bulunsky Ulus. And once a thriving central settlement. Bulunsky ulus as an administrative and economic unit was formed in 1930. naslega in the 9th district (villages). administrative Center – Tiksi. resident population as of 01.01.2007. was 9.5 thousand people, the urban population – 5 6 thousand (it’s about Tiksi, although now, for sure, a lot less – I), agriculture – 3.9 thousand people, and it is in the territory of 225 square kilometers in the Horse!” But the village itself is Bulun not disappeared. Absolutely. All overgrown with weeds, bushes and grass. Empty, one or two dilapidated buildings, the old cemetery on the mountain already unreadable graves, yes monument to the dead soldiers of the Red Army. To him earlier were presented wreaths, flowers all sorts, and then, someone very clever dig deeper into the archives and found that were buried at this site Whites that they shot well – mowing Kyusyur residents. Stopped laying wreaths, monument abandoned. In truth he really keeps on parole, another 3-4 years and he collapsed. History – a funny thing. It is necessary, for many years near this monument , for sure, took the Pioneers, to salute, swore loyalty to the ideals of Lenin, Stalin, and it turned out that buried in that place ideological opponents of the Communists.
Drove up to the village Bulun. Former village.
That’s the whole Bulun. Last building sohranivsheevsya miracle.
Old home made torch. Found him near the ruins of the old ship. Marika in screens. Because midges hard to breathe. And all nepochem Pavlov.
Iron barrel – a scourge of the Arctic. They are everywhere. They were imported fuel, and drums – as spent packaging thrown away and now rasbrosany throughout the North. In the background is a monument to the heroes of the Red Army, who were Whites.
Monument near. He is really strong rotten. Perhaps this is one of his last pictures.
Going to look for the grave Sannikov.
The old cemetery of the village. Time takes its mercilessly. Memory goes. Forever.
The view from the hill where the cemetery is just breathtaking. On the one hand the mighty Lena, on the other, a view of the river meandering snake Bulunkan.
Estuary Bulunkan.
One of the goals for me in this expedition was to visit the grave of Sannikov. The man who supposedly broke new ground , which , as it turned out and nebilo. Yakut rich merchant. Financed and fitted out many polar expeditions. Received a gold medal from the Swedish king for help F.Nansenu. Northerners said, the sky god in the North – Sannikov. Here is what the story Sannikov. From local residents heard rumors about the mysterious land lying far in the Arctic Ocean. First saw the land on the horizon in 1811, industrialist (from the word ” earn one) Yakov Sannikov. He saw in the distance in the fog high rocky mountains. They even brought a map with the coordinates 77 degrees 30 minutes north latitude and 142 degrees 20 minutes east longitude. Russian polar explorer Eduard Vasilevich Toll later organized an expedition to the area in which, unfortunately, killing all members of the expedition, including Toll. Efforts and other attempts to find the mysterious Sannikov Land, but all ended in vain. sushi nebilo No trace found on those coordinates. So it remained a concept – Sannikov Land, something mysterious, distant, inspired by the heroism, courage and honor and valor. All that is connected with Sannikov Land, Eduard Toll, cause I have memories of my youthful dreams, dreams of travel, heroes of polar explorers. One of my favorite books from childhood, is “Two Captains” by Veniamin Kaverin.
Been looking for these graves. From the river up the mountain, to the cemetery. It virtually no headstones, mercilessly time to work, and people have tried. Looking for a place, which according to our notions, must be the most beautiful, the most-most, while it was necessary to make an amendment is not the time, still more than a century has passed. Well, no grave Sannikov, can not find. Then, including the brain. Went from reverse. It should be a place with a good view, not buried at the cemetery, but not the edge (not suicidal same). Monument to the Red Guards – Whites put much later and had to rely on a “solid – prestigious” place, ie Sannikov close to the monument. And, indeed, in 30-40 meters, in the impenetrable thickets found what we were looking for.
So I got the same to the memorial tomb of the man, the legend. Another one of my personal goals this expedition I reached. Another one of my dream that I gave birth to a child, inspired by books about brave polar pioneers, true. These brave, courageous people were my idols since childhood. They lived thirst for discovery, the desire to find new and uncharted lands. As I wanted to be like these heroes!
Earlier in the grave were embedded icon and watch the ship. People barbarians long pulled these items. Freaks.
Near the grave Sannikov is another grave, grave sailor yacht with Tryphon Nosov “Dawn”, which explored our North. The sailor said to have died some random, absurd death.
Chekurovka. Next stop – a small village and the famous Chekurovka Chekurovskie sands. Some of the oldest fishing sand, caught in the past century, the year before, and now caught. The village itself is a 12-15 houses, live in it only in the summer, when fishermen fish extract. In winter, there is only one family for protection.
And of course the famous chekurovskie cheeks, famous Lena pipe. Huge cliffs narrow river to a minimum, for accelerated as you go down the canyon. As if it is not our deepest river and a raging torrent some mountain river. The spectacle is fantastic, it’s hard to believe that it all happens in the real world, it is our Lena, our Yakutia.
Panorama. The eyes see, the brain refuses to accept it all. This is our Yakutia!
Unreal reality.
Meanwhile, the wind increases.
Another attraction Chekurovki – it’s a plane, which crashed into a mountain Kuorat Khaya that almost opposite the village. Tourists who are sailing on “Mikhail Svetlov” down in Tiksi guides always show the remains of the aircraft. HA! To tourists a better view, it was painted in yellow. Idiots. But as the plane actually looks. Pictures posted Thank Levin. He pulled out of the aircraft with one of the fuel tanks should be put into the Yakut Museum.
Slava rises to the mountain to photograph the remains of the aircraft.
Hobbits living here.
And here, actually, and the plane itself. This is his invisible part, dear. Green.
And this is what they see tourists from afar. Yellow plane. Not much tensed when painted. If only one could see a mountain backdrop.
But it is not only in Chekurovke crashed plane, there is another. And it does not show the tourists. At 14 km from the village was located before a military unit. Evenki living in those places called gorge between the mountains, whence flew aircraft from the runway – not only as a mountain, giving birth to heaven sled. Marika, Lisitsin Sasha and Sasha Pavlov went to this airfield. Here are the remains of a military plane crashed during landing can be seen. And Pavlov posing as a pilot model. 🙂
The fate of the aerodrome. Everywhere you can see a large number of abandoned equipment, buildings are in perfect condition, some warehouses full of belongings, cement storages, long turned to stone. A feeling that everything abandoned in a hurry. And proved. Nearby, kilometers in 60 areas in the river Ayakit, in Soviet times, experienced a “peaceful” atom doing underground nuclear explosions. After the explosion occurred some emissions, leakage emissions and wind contaminated air had to go to a military airfield. Here it extra and moved. As it turned out nothing. The wind blew the consequences of “peaceful” nuclear explosion in the area of the river Olenyok. Hello clean air, land and water.
The boys went to investigate this airfield, Slava remained in the camp, directly opposite Chekurovki agreement that take them when they come down to the river.
Due to poor visibility Slava twice for nothing went to the village , down to the river are not our guys. In his next trip to Chekurovku Glory brought me to the camp of a local boy , Vanya , so 10-12 years . Man tired me literally 5 minutes. Managing to continuously ask endless questions , eating , chewing sunflower seeds, seizing candy, spinning confused , scattered seasoning , cover lost from the eyepieces of binoculars , soaked my boots , something- something. This whirlwind some walking . What happiness seeing their binoculars , I took a sad father in this village child.
Wind began. My tent is all bent and eventually broke. Wind raises the sand, he plunges sharp needles into the skin, the eyes of the whole camp to sleep. Despite the wind and big wave decided to move on. Boat shakes as if sitting astride a furious bull at a rodeo. Insides slowly descend. That smell squash caviar, then one of the cans in the forepeak on the nose broke from shock. Yes, the river shows its temper, it is not only soft and quiet. Wind, wave just crazy. I thought no longer happens. Naive, what we experienced a few days later, here it was this wave, and so, just flowers.
Striking phenomenon – polar day. Light always. Landmark lost in time. Do you know how many now, 12 nights or 3 nights-light. Pieter with his white nights nervously smoking in aside. Polar day ends on August 6 after a short time the sun is setting over the horizon and then goes again. Sunset, Dawn immediately.
This picture was taken late at night. Only now it is not clear if it was day or night. With the habit hard.
Tit-Ary. The interesting thing is – life. My mother was born in Tit-Arah Hangalassky district (now ulus). As a child I spent quite a long time in this village. And here again Tit-Ary, just outside of the Laptev Sea. Something in it.
Walked along the main street. Rumour has it on the river in front of us. People come to us, communicate, have heard about us. 15-20 village houses, inhabited only by fishermen from Kyusyur, Tiksi. In winter, there is only one family, as a guard. People are simple, kind, friendly. Even despite the fact that the recently passed “Belenky” – “The Mechanic Kulibin” drunk like would not be seen.
Main street Tit-Ary.
Tit-Arin fishermen. It is possible that tasty stroganina, which we will feed sweetly on New Year’s caught these guys. These hardworking.
Here in this tub carrying fish caught in the glacier.
Rather weak catch today. Storms.
Photographing fish in ledikite us banned. Photos on the memory input only.
And this piece of plate swims. Do not believe it.
And during the war, our Yakut fish rescued many from starvation.
In Tit-Arah as well as throughout the North, there is a cemetery Churapchinsky settlers exiled Poles, Estonians, Latvians. Relatives buried Balts sometimes come watch graves trafficked remains. Remains of our countrymen scattered throughout the cemetery. Shame. Forces buried deep body was not dead and buried so deep. Deeps pushed coffins out of the sand, the wind finished their dirty work. Remains of many graves lie on the ground. It did not take pictures.
Speaking of climate. Tit-Ary village last place where larch grows. (the name speaks for itself, Yakut, larch Island) just below the tundra. This information we have gathered from various sources. So, this is no longer true. Listvyashka slowly begins to grow even 30 kilometers down the Lena. Change, brothers, climate change.
And that’s the real Arctic tundra. That’s how it all looks.
And again about climate. Snow cover on average around Ulus Bulunsky 220 – 250 days!!! Winter winds prevail from land to sea, and in the summer – in the opposite direction. Maximum winters wind speed reaches 35 m/sec. and 20 m./sec. – summer.
Grave 9 shamans. In Yakutia many sacred , magical places. This is Death Valley in Viliuisk ulus and Labynkyr and Ilbenge and island near Zhigansk Agrippina . And the island in the early post delta.
One of such places – this is the tomb 9 shamans. A magical place. Strange and scary place. Located near the river Aryngystah, there is always a strong wind blows. Hunters, fishermen try to get round this strange place. In Kyusyur communicating with local peasants, asked about these graves. Yes, they say, we know these places, but even under pain of death will not go there. Scary place. Thought there materialize think bad about the man and he will die a bad death. Think and think there must be very careful. Not speak loudly, do not scream, do not laugh. Behaved badly on this earth – you will not live long. Sometimes, hunters wandered see there a huge deer. Just going to shoot, and he disappears. Suited to the place where he stood, and there is even a trace of no hooves. Immediately run away. Buried there, according to rumors, the most powerful shamans 9 and not only Yakutia. 8 men and 1 woman. Near the river Aryngystah are large blocks of ice. We went out with Pavlov boat, I did not bring a camera to take even, ugh, ugh, ugh, just in case. I believe all these legends and beliefs. Took his camera Sasha Pavlov. Photographed. Return Court. Posted on Aryngystahe lot of pictures. Already in Yakutsk, when I copied his memory card to your PC, there was no picture. Not one. They just disappeared.
Some photos then still took more time Pavlov. Here they are.
Go to the grave 9 shamans
View from the mountain, at the bottom a river flowing Aryngystah. Away our boat.
Across from Tit-Ary, 10-15 kilometers (if my memory serves me right) is or was a summer camp geological faculty of YSU. Here is what is left of the camp. Sasha Pavlov found a piece of tin, made pipe, lit the stove, the guys spent the night in the hut. I and Slava Levin slept in tents, so familiar.
Hey, guys from GRF-84, who left this inscription, respond, tell me about your life-being in those places.
Sasha Lee out to make their masterpieces. Photographer he and the Arctic photographer. Always find the right frame, the desired angle.
Marika decided to feed the men fish caught and went spinning on the extraction.
This black dot continue – Island Post. In principle, the end of the Lena delta start.
And it photographs from past years our expedition of.
Maria Lena at the source. A few meters of our great river. These pictures do not sin and grandchildren future to show.
In the upper Lena looks like a mountain river with violent tetchy. Obstructions, congestion.
Our steering. End of September. Chill dog. How not to wear warm, still freeze to the bone.
In the morning, all the things in the ice. Of a sleeping bag is not want to go.
Expedition of one we were under sail. Catamaran Glory Levin. Passed on it from Ust-Kut to Peleduya. With us was Kostya Fedorov. Showed us – yungam as are controlled sail.
And this miracle – we were going to punt Biryulek (Irkutsk region) to Ust-Kut. Miracles virtuznogo driving showed us Volodya Fedorov.
Photos used by Alexander Lee, Maria Ivanova, Vyacheslav Levin and Alexander Skripin.
The end of the second part.
Source: Dnevniki.Ykt.Ru
Translation: Google
