On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk – part 4: river Lena (2011)

part 4: river Lena

Route: Kurumkan, r.Garga, d.Pod-Ikat, Ikat Pass, weather station Upper Ikat, Ikat lake, r.Ikat, r.Vitimkan, Ruzan Vit to w/d BAM Bridge, transfer to st.Hani, p.Hani, r.Olёkma, Lena river to Kachikattsy, hitchhiking to st.Neryungri.

Diary of a hike – the Lena River, ch.IV

Part of the route at 511 km and 690 km hitchhiking.

part 4: river Lena
Lena river.

Sunday, August 7, 56 day’s journey

Map Р51-31_32
Lena River in this place is wide, up to 1.5 km, within not less than Olekma, water is too high – up to the bushes on the bank. Small headwind, but tolerable, almost no drift.

Go while under the right bank. On the map is marked hut by the stream Third Executioner, rip up the steep bank. From the hut there is nothing left – just a pit and pieces of rotted logs. I ran down the path along the shore to the clearing a little further downstream. Accumulated bunch of oil in the cap did not intermeddle, had to be shipped in the hem of her shirt. And Irina at this time took a little lingonberry cap – not quite ripe, just beginning to blush on one side.

Below, the river crossing of the built Lena – here pass gas and oil pipes of large diameter. We need a little restock products, so you have to go across the river to the left bank. So, tomorrow morning to get to the d.Solyanka – the stories there is a shop.

I looked around, there was anything of a large and high-speed, and headed to the left bank. Minutes for 20 diagonally across him overcome. Wind small, almost no waves, and the matter was almost evening. We begin to look for parking. Near the beach is a road, so the parking lot. We came close to the village and found two kilometers for a secluded place.

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

Once out on the beach into the forest – there is an old fishing parking, a small clearing, fireplace old trail to the river. Okay, here and staying. Unload, dragged Hermetic bags, and then pulled the canoe up. Camp, campfire, cooking dinners. First warmed and eaten remnants of a morning mushroom soup, and then Irina began to clean and cook boletus. I dial the 2 pans. One ate at once, and the second Irina shoved into a quart jar – will be tomorrow at the snack.

In the evening, the moon seemed to have approached a fisherman on the motorboat and started throwing bottom fishing rods.
I wonder the same – what he catches. I walked to him to say hello. Conversation – sturgeon catches in the conventional worm. In this place of sand and muddy bottom, and it is a good bite. Yeah – to shook my mustache, urgently needs to dig up worms and take prey fish.

Noisy here – in construction machinery transition rumbled all night.
Subsided late hours of the night next 2 went some people. Crowded and uncomfortable here – have become estranged from the noise.
Parking: N 60°26,631 ‘E 120°42,698’ H 137 m, S 1950. Km.
The day passed: Olekma – 28 km, Lena – 9 km. Total: 37 km.

Great album “River Lena”

Monday, August 8, 57 day’s journey

Map Р51-31_32
7-40 am, climbing. Near the tent went horse – 5 pcs. On the construction of the transition from morning rumbling machines. Noisy here. Crawl out of the tent. Morning procedure breed a fire, cook on the sip of coffee. Then Irina took breakfast, and I, from harm’s way, was washed off in a tent. Little finished the blog, got new cards – this time on the Lena river.

Then he got out, ran along the shore and gather up oil – has noticed yesterday evening. Then he ran to the other side – to the road. Not far from us is camp – tent tarpaulin, table nearby, fireplace. The tent is fastened, no people. On the protection of a white cat – enormous eyes shining from under a bush. Next I came across a log cabin and a pair of rims. Someone is trying to build a hut. Eliminated in the road and came back.

We had breakfast and went 11-20. Yesterday, the fisherman said that as many as 3 Solianke store but are open from 10 am. Half an hour later were d.Solyanka. Irina ran to buy food, and I stayed on the bank to talk with the local peasants. I lend them a mug for drinking bottles. Sam refused. Soon came Irina – dragged product bag and left for another meal and want to drop in to the clinic with his knee. I came, nothing in her medical unit did not help. Pharmacies in the village no.

Go ahead along the left bank. Wind passing and small pushes in the back. Width 1.3 … 1.5km Lena, a lot of water, for a quick, on the navigator speed up to 7 km / h. I tried to drag the track – not biting, a lot of water and it is muddy.

After 18 hours, they began to look for parking. Left Bank went low, overgrown with grass and bushes. So go for the right bank, the cost of this maneuver is about 0.5 hours – prevented crosswind. Irina little Podmokly – strongly sprinkles with oars. The weather is cloudy, wind blows the clouds. In the west, the rain already, but we have not yet reached. Lander, the place is not very smooth, but we must hurry – can cover rain. I dig a trench and leveled the place under the tent. Once settled in, we put a tent, lit a fire. Cloud and rain slipped by.

At dinner – horns with mushrooms. Vodka in Solianke Irina did not sell – local law only after 14 hours. And the men on the shore drinking, and to store a bottle of … well, they can not buy in a store, and inventory from the last century are stored in the cellar …

So, we washed down with tea. They put on a fishnet night. Wind a bit of effort, but ceased to darkness. It subsided after 21 hours. Daylight hours gradually reduced.

Sun did not have a whole day to charge the batteries for nothing navigator.
Parking:. N 60 ° 37,894 ‘E 121 ° 21,414’ H 129 m, S 1995 km.
The day was 45 km.

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

Tuesday, 9 August, 58 days on the road

Map Р51-31_32
8-30, in the morning quiet and overcast. Welded some coffee, then went to pull the net. I got only one small sterlet. So today will be a soup. Nothing else caught in the net. Water a little sleep – about 0.5m per night, and, I believe, has brightened. Yesterday was much more turbid. Irina campfire roast mushrooms on snacking and cooking soup-ear.

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

10-30 – the rain, we drove into the tent. We sit. Here and there do daily rest. The pressure on the barometer (in hours and Irene in my browser) has grown steadily and is high. In the morning it was + 17 ° C, and at night is something cool, we had to pull the fleece suit.

In Solianke men said that mobile will no longer be up to the Yakutsk. So mobilki hide deep into the backpack. I wanted her to recharge and then later to hide – but there is no sun. Then somehow.

In the 11-30 out. The clouds began to drizzle – quietly gets wet. There were up to 16 hours. Snack. From all wet continuous rain. The fire spread almost under the trees, at the sub-wood pile. A bit dry in the drizzling rain. Snack dry potatoes (mashed steamed sublimated) with fried boletus from banks.

17-30 – go further. Fog, rain, mockney further. There were up to 20 hours. Beach interesting, but to remove problematic – drizzles all the time.

Rose strong wind, cold. We disembark on the right bank, put the tent. He started a fire – prevents the wind. I had the stones to lay out protective wall horseshoe, do something like fire. Rain verse cooked dinner. Snack, then put the grid in the creek at the confluence of the creek. Lights out.
Parking: N 60 ° 33,575 ‘E 122 ° 02,605’ H 122 m, S 2035. Km.
The day passed 40 km.

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

Wednesday, August 10, 59 day of the journey

Map Р51-33_34
Morning Cloudy, fog and cold. Campfire and coffee first thing. Then he checked the net – empty. Irina took breakfast. I adapt to the navigator found near the hut half dead battery “Liman” 2.6V 140 A / h. The second is the same battery with a bulb from a flashlight hung in the cabin lighting. These batteries are on the marker posts on the banks of the river in the dark and feed them to the navigation flashers. But local fishermen have adapted them for lighting huts.

Planed couple of pegs instead of the battery to press the wire, brought two thin wires of the navigator. Connected to a battery – Earn money! Now I have a navigator with an external power supply. Shook the battery in the film, I will shove under the seat or in the back of the stern. And then all the batteries are discharged because of this weather. You’re only 4 pieces. Irina in the camera, and the camera from moisture that works, refuses. Although she shoves it at night into his sleeping bag.

At about 12 came and went. Today, according to the plan it is necessary to reach d.Uritskoe – buy vodka, to warm, as they say. Well it may be able to get bread and a can of biscuits for tea.

At about 14 survived. Lena passed ahead of time before the village, although the wind from behind, but the driving wave and interferes with walking. Demolished km 4. Transitions 20-25 minutes, a width of about 1.5 km in this place. Rain a little verse. Irina ran to the store and returned to the 15-hours. As time went “Rocket” to the opposite bank – the people of Georgia directly afloat with motorboats. Berth no.

Irina brought 2 liters of milk and two loaves of white bread. Right there, right on the beach, and a snack of milk and bread. Then loaded bread in a sealed bag and walked away. Again, drizzling rain and did not stop till nightfall.
We went on a former farm (Uritskogo below), and dug up a jar of good worms. I climb on the forest along the beach and found some fungi. The wind increased. Cold and wet much.

There were up to 19 hours. Found in the bushes near the left lateral inflow – river Hatyng-Yuryakh, so to hide a little bit of wind, put the tent. They took off all wet – a whole bunch in the vestibule. Dressed in dry. Rain drumming on the tent. Poured by 3 sips of vodka, then another one. Biting bacon with bread. Drank milk residues. They pick up in sleeping bags and slept up to 22 hours. Rain verse. Selected, dragged the canoe into the water and almost in the dark, put in the creek net. did not cook dinner. Firewood in the dark to look problematic, and all the surrounding bushes wet after rain. We went to bed without supper.

Parking: N 60 ° 33,899 ‘E 122 ° 40,509’ H 122 m, S 2071. Km.
The day passed 36 km.

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

Thursday, August 11, 60 day of the journey

Map Р51-33_34
8 a.m. Weather slightly adjusted, but in the east there was a strip of light with the sun.
Welded some coffee. They checked the net – empty. It was decided that the river is not correct, because water therein colored clay. And yesterday on the dark, we just did not see where vkinuli grid. The Lena River water for the night fell another 0.5m. At breakfast – horns with fried mushrooms. Dry by the fire all wet things. Append blogs and begin to gather. Barges and tugs are on the Lena in the morning, one after another. And yesterday, when there was fog and rain, almost nothing happened. Lena River – the main transport highway Yakutia.

11-30 – out. The weather is better, the wind begins to slowly change the direction of the counter. From the east quietly blowing. Ahead of visible blue gleam in the clouds and the sun peeps. Quiet rejoice – already tired of getting wet and freeze.

We got to d.Hatyng-Tumul. On the shore of plaque on the pillar and bench – a public transport stop, as it were. They went out, went to sit on the bench. Came a curious guy, then two more. He limped an old man of 87 years. He began to tell me that on the train ride is terrible – they face, and then roll downhill. We talked about it. We decided that planes fly dangerous – out this week, only 2 pcs. crashed. The men said that an hour ago was another canoe – out only for the Cape disappeared. We say goodbye and go to catch up. We got to the Cape, the time for 14 hours.

On the horizon, a kilometer 4, flashed through the left bank of something white. They began to eat. Little chewed, drank a cup of tea. Well rested and at the same time.

In the 15 hours have gone to catch up on. I wonder who else is out there from Peter? Before going to anything on the forums are not heard. They gathered at Lena a couple of people – but not because of Peter. An hour later seen at the right side white inflatable kayak – homemade type “Pike-2”, but entirely without frame elements without spacers.

We leave. It turns out – is Sibirtseva, father and son. Stanislav and Vladimir. On the shore of a small meadow and hut. A good place. I decide to go no further, and stay here on a day vacation. Sibirtseva like staying only overnight and did not object, so we became close. Weather was adjusted – sunny and warm. Unload, we put a tent close to the hut. We started to engage in normal activities.

Stanislav helped to repair the tent. They burst arc yesterday. I take out a repair kit, find the length of the tube and everything you need to repair. Vladimir helps sort out the arc, common efforts give a tent in a working condition. The time in the afternoon, preparing dinner.

I do bottom of spinning fishing rods, ties the two leash hook. As the moon rises, I’ll try to catch sturgeon. Sibirtseva your spinning somewhere, or broken, or lost, or broke first, and then lost – is not clear. The entire camp searched but did not find him. Communicate, talk about everything. After dinner, the sun began to set – it’s time to go fishing.

At first bite, every little thing, ate worms. But when darkness fell and the moon rose – start to peck and sturgeon. Caught 4 sterlet and one burbot. People went to bed, and I sat there with a flashlight before 0-30, it is completely stopped pecking. Then he threw the two spinning at night, disguised them in the bushes and went to bed, too.
At night it was cold: + 5 ° C in the morning warmed up to + 7 ° C.
Parking: N 60 ° 35,481 ‘E 123 ° 04,292’ H 122 m, S 2093. Km.
The day was 22 km.

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

Great album “River Lena”

Friday, August 12, 61 day of the journey. daily rest

Map Р51-33_34
8 am, the night was cold, it was cold in the tent. I looked at the clock Irina – at night the temperature dropped to 5 ° C.
Morning coffee, then Irina cooks soup pot full of sterlet. We entertain and Sibirtseva. They also decide to stay on the rest day. Stanislav Helping to repair the balloon in kayaks – one pretty much poison, and they have to constantly paged.

We take out the bottle – he’s from some tricky three-layer transparent film. I propose to make a soapy water and coat the balloon. Well look for gas leaks. At the second attempt we find a small hole. Stanislav her once glued up. Pulls the balloon in place. Vladimir left to wander around the neighborhood no one saying anything. Stanislav said that he always does.

Then do your current business. Fireplace, hot water, laundry, rope, drying – cool, like a squirrel in a wheel. Today, sunny, so from morning to charge the battery from the solar battery. Stanislav went to the cabin to read the book.

After lunch, I carry stones and build the stove for a bath. Then fuels run for wood, harvested in parallel branches to the frame. Irina helps.

Finally bath ready. Climb, bathe. Then a little beat up with birch twigs. Good! Successful the room. We drank hot tea and half an hour into the tent to lie down – relax. Irina writes a diary, and I’m trying to take a nap, but has flown into the tent fly interfere. And catch her did not succeed. So provoeval to fly for half an hour.
18-20. We must get out of the tent. Helping build Stanislav zakidushku – he also wants to try in the evening to catch sturgeon.

After dinner, and after the sunset go three fish. First, Irina pulls sterlet, then I 2 pcs. contract. Stanislav also periodically something catches.
Irina clinging just 2 minnows.
By 24 o’clock in the dark and quite ceased to peck. I put bottom fishing rods for the night and go to sleep.

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

Saturday, August 13, 62 day of the journey

Map Р51-33_34
7-30. Someone walks by the tents – jump out. This Stanislav up already.
The temperature in the morning + 11 ° C. He took off his bottom fishing rods – there is another fish. Morning coffee, then I clean fish, Irina prepares breakfast. A little added entries in the diary, then had breakfast.

9 am, we start to turn off the camp and load the canoe. I came a man with a woman, began buhtet morning. Here he lost the net yesterday, I thought that we shot, but today in the morning found her. Because without putting floats, so no one dragged. But the place is sometimes forgotten, here and now had to trawl – well, that he had found. The cottage is not it – but still went and looked, what would we have not dragged. Chainsaw hidden away in the bush – also was found. Seems calmed down and he and the woman. Dispersed peacefully, I even took a picture of it. Together with a woman and her granddaughter.

A couple of hours reached d.Marha slightly climbed up the river Markha village center. Irina ran to the village and had got 2 liters of milk and 22 rubles / liter. Bread and 2 cucumber – just for pleasure. Markha River – quiet and clean the village, children on the beach with fishing rods pulls small fishes. Georgia and return to the Lena river.

Sibirtseva also landed and run through the village on his own business. And we went on. More we have not met. Their plane tickets from Yakutsk on 5 September, bought in December to 8 thousand rubles., And they rush to absolutely nowhere.
By snacking left bank became completely overgrown kuschami not prodereshsya. Passed 20 minutes to the right. Width 1.5 … 1.7 km away. Then, just before the evening, and went under the right bank.

Once selected for an open in the taiga. Irina ran into cranberries, began to gather, and I wandered around the neighborhood. I came across a great maturation – moss, litter large claws raked in one big pile. The diameter of three meters, a height of about 0.5m or slightly more. Here the soft haul someone gently rested. I did not find out who, and quickly drove Irina with berry trees and dragged to the kayak. It is, of course, began to be indignant. But a 1 liter cranberries dial still managed.

There were up to 18 hours have passed and Matar island landed on the right bank. We put up a tent. I poured on 2 sip. Lit with boiling water, dry the potatoes, bacon, cucumber – a snack. Irina drove me into the tent, and she started a lot of frying pancakes.

Aching back, twist a bit, I found the most comfortable position and sleep.
At 22 o’clock I came out – by the fire 2 pancakes hills. The second dinner.
Then he tried to throw a bottom fishing rods – do not bite, the bottom of the unfortunate, the grass, all the while clinging to the hooks. He scored out for the night – and sleep. During the night it never pecked. At night, + 11 ° C.

Parking: N 60°34,745 ‘E 123°45,794’ H 116 m, S 2132. Km.
The day passed 40 km. As GPS has lost about 1 km – took the battery and time is not observed.

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

Great album “River Lena”

Sunday, August 14, 63 day of the journey

Map Р51-33_34, Р51-35_36
8 am, start to honk tugs. Cloudy, Temperature: 14 ° C, at night it was + 11 ° C.
Slightly pokapatsya. But the south wind, and even at times a bit counter. So in good weather (I guess). On the bottom fishing rod only a dead worm and a bunch of green grass. Made a fire, cooked some coffee. We swallow with pancakes. Then Irina decided to cook millet milk porridge, and I climbed into the tent to write a diary.

9-06. We have breakfast and begin to slowly roll up.
10-20. They went out, and began to drizzle rain and immediately went up to 14 hours, to a snack. Although the east and north-east is visible blue stripe of clear sky, which slowly expands.

14-15. Snack. Potato puree with wild onions. The banks are high and mostly covered with dense larch. Exit on the right bank opposite d.Sanyyahtah – anything from mushrooms not found. Zimove also there (see. R51-35_36 map).

After 15 hours, the weather improved, the sun came out, blue sky. After a snack, we have embarked on a rock on the left bank, opposite d.Ust-Tuolba (Junk.), Passed on the left edge of the island. Before o.Kyllah-Ary came up to us motorboat with three locals – simply interesting to them, I want to talk. We talked a bit and told who we are and how many have already passed and where we are going. Asked us in the internet address of the page with reports about our campaigns. I had to tear a leaf from the diary and write, as paper no one had.

The time to 18 hours, daily norm (35 km) has already been completed, you can look for parking.
Before o.Kyllah-Ary greatly beginning to bear right to the southeast, in the side duct – but raked and went to the left bank.
The bailiff just below d.Elovka (Junk). On the shore you can see the cabin 1. Grazing small herd of 3 horses. The most daring and curious horse came up to meet us. All sniffed and photographed us.

I have already started looking for a place under the tent, but then we were approached by a guy – asking to carry to the island. He has a boat and a summer camp – the hay mow. And his children moved here and forgotten. It is 2 days in the hut sat, ate mushrooms. Shouted – shouted at the island, no one hears.

Well, what can you do … I tie up Hermetic bags, make a seat for Irina. It sits on top of the deck on the Hermetic bags, Man in its place. The paddle in hands and forward – rests. And I was behind the steering wheel and hold the balance. They crossed to the island, marooned Man – and vice versa.

Demolished our cool almost to the end of the island, the river below Big Hara-Yuryakh. Unload, Irina began to put the camp, and I jerked to look for mushrooms for dinner. Accumulated bit young boletuses returned – Irina had put up a tent and made a fire. Dinner will be pasta with mushrooms and stewed cranberries. Dinner took 2 sips.

Prettier and vain. Then we put the grid at night. Irina went to bed, and I took my bottom fishing rods and tried to fish. I sat on the bank of up to 23 hours – even not once pecked. I went to sleep.
Parking: N 60 ° 40,187 ‘E 124 ° 24,967’ H 116 m, S 2172. Km.
The day passed 40 km.

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

Monday, August 15, 64 day of the journey

Map Р51-29_30
8-20. The temperature in the autumn, at night and + 8 ° C, and in the morning + 12 ° C. Dew on the grass cold. But by 9 o’clock the sun came out from behind the clouds and warmed immediately. Morning chores, then the net and checked zakidushku – empty. So breakfast milk rice and cranberry compote. Near the coast crossed by a channel, and early in the morning are already tankers and tugboats pulling barges. Tankers are coming up empty – on the draft can be seen, be seen for the fuel to the rail. We came yesterday our friends horses – again curiously sniffed everything and gave himself the boldest stroke. A photo.
They gathered only 11 hours. Normal weather, sunny, almost warm – + 26 ° C. Wind small and fair, but weak – midge does not blow off. And animals that, an infection, a bit lacking. The screens our drowned on Olekma. The banks are low and not interesting.

Another day passed base Elovskaya career. They went out and talked a little bit with the guard.
3 year career, extract building stone for the w / d of the bridge across the Lena to Yakutsk. Because it makes a filler for concrete, which goes to support. The second such quarry only in Omsk. And before the stone carried out. And here is much closer. Here is mined, then the barge will be sent to Yakutsk. The village is just settling down – about 60 people. The technique of the bat brought all imported. Next to the office is receiving and transmitting plate, there is an Internet. Gone d.Malykan, it is far from the water, and therefore did not come.

Irina today is a sad day – drowned his glasses. We went ashore at the memorial sign – border Olekminsk ulus. There in the meadow grows old sacred pine branches which are tied with colored ribbons. We also tied shnurochek. Later moved away from the coast, Irina waved her hand to ward off a gnat, and carried the glasses. Only time – and no. Deep, all paddle for fast and the water is cloudy. Twirled in place – do not get it. How many times have told her – points to tie the lace, even hanging on the neck, so no – in a backpack carries. Well, somewhere in the rags lie spare glasses, old, even where it has been on the Angara and Yenisei. We agreed that it’s a string necessarily tie.

By evening, the wind weakened and very gradually began to seize the cat.
20-00. Became the parking lot on the left bank in front of the former d.Churan Mal.Churanka streams. Then it built a new hut until there is only a framework. Located on the shore on the sand, though it had little smoothed. Then it all, as usual in the evening. Is what happened to drink a sip of vodka and a bottle over – is the one that bought back in Uritskom 10 numbers.

I tried to fish – caught only 2 small ruff, and only eats worms trifle. Fishing has failed – at 23 o’clock went to sleep.
Parking at the cottage: N 60°46,246 ‘E 125°00,482’ H 109 m, S 2211. Km.
The day was 39 km. + I lost 2 kg due to battery discharge.

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

Tuesday, August 16, 65 days on the road

Map Р51-29_30
8 am, again at night and + 8 ° C in the morning + 14 ° C – then the cold wind blew from the west and the temperature dropped. The usual morning bustle. I figured on the map – it remains to 235 km, it is still up to us for a week with a day of rest.

10 am, we begin to gather – and the sun appeared. They went out at 11-30. On the left bank of a small rock – a little take pictures. Approached tract Hatyng-Ary. We ran through the bushes – gained little red currants, near the hut dug worms. And then in a meadow next to the hut, we ran into a very ripe red currants – collected in his mouth until he ate.

A little moved in the 14 hours began to bite. Snack dry potatoes with wild onions and tea. As a piece of bacon with bread.
Gathered, they moved away from the coast – and then I remember that did not include a navigator. I turn. And he occasionally there are kinks. When the flies message: – “Perform a master reset to factory settings Yes No?”. Or: – “Delete all user data Yes No?”.

And it is necessary to say: – “No”. A default is: – “Yes.” (The Dukes programmers from Garmin!)
Here, apparently, something popped up and, as I mechanically and in a hurry (just wave and wind put the kayak lag, and we had to turn sharply to the stern wave) is something out there and hit. And a factory reset. Pancake !!!
Missing more than 2220 km of track. However, after the Vitim I did an archive, but it also is not. Preserved what the pieces of automatic archives until July 25th. That’s how it is … I tried to keep track of all the campaign … and that’s on you. Sorry, I upset.

The cards that are on the outside of the flash drive, remained. So everything works. But the old Delete all cleaned. I decided not to write until the track to the end of the route there are only 220 km. Just sometimes I will look to compare the coordinates of the map. Maybe at home on the computer will be able to restore the deleted files. Part of the course will overwrite, but minimum.

By 19 hours reached d.Krestyah. Shown at the top of a house on the cliff, apparently lives one family. Send below, taking the place became drier and the parking lot. Again I dug trench paddle – leveled place under the tent. Tried fishing – 1 perch.

Happy little drizzling rain – all wet. In the evening there was a big cloud, but went to the left.
After the rain got out a little gnats, but once lit a fire and bit Nadym, she untied and do not bite. Dinner – and sleep.

Parking: N 60 ° 51,854 ‘E 125 ° 36,474’ H 106 m, S 2251. Km.
The day passed 37 km. According to the paper chart remains about 198 km.

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

Wednesday, August 17, 66 day of the journey. daily rest

Map Р51-29_30
8-30 in the morning, cloudy, 14 ° C, the cold wind from the west. Slightly warmed morning coffee. Then I got near the leading beacons discarded batteries “Liman” and began to build one from the pile at 5 volts. Their mark on the nail nailed hefty, and usually the central bank damage, and 2 side remain whole. Such long battery does not work. BLIND 2 pcs., Are connected in series all the elements came about 5.5 volts. I hit the road all in a bunch of tape and put the wires through the adapter connected to the Irinin mobile phone (Sony Ericsson w300i). A little tough, finally went charging – and after a while the phone alive.

Just there in the cold strongly discharged battery. Local people said that the link needs to be p.Sinske.
They came on horseback 2 people. – The old man and the girl from d.Krestyah. We chatted a bit. They’re one house live longer there is no village. Irina wanted to photograph, but her camera down again did not want to be included. While running after my – the guests left.

9 am – breakfast. Soup of 1 perch and young nettles. Tops and young leaves Irina naschipala yesterday near the hut when digging worms – there in the meadow next to the ruins of the stables. And all of them thickets of dense and high nettles.
After breakfast, up to 11 hours to write a diary, then I built a float rod and go fishing. On worm bite good small fish such as capelin size. What is the name – I do not know, but it was a lot. Irina perestirala little little things. In the intervals I built from stone oven. Stones had to carry on a cliff, rather far from the coast. Irina also helped a bit, but with her foot would be better not to do so. But unless she was forced to sit idle – when there built a bakery. Irina ventured to knead the dough into buns, I’m a little fireman stove. I had to hide behind a bush, as a fairly strong wind blew the fire. Finally baked buns. Kept in the oven for 20 minutes, then began glances and pulled preparedness.

Something they came out not very successful. We get a nice, but not very lush. You can not give a good approach for the second time, when laid out on a frying pan or the wind chill. Turned heavy, dense dough, not lavish.
Buns turned 2 pans. The second time, when the oven a little longer to heat, coals from the stove is not quite Raked, even a little left, and water (as the first time) the coals are not flooded. And pans (we have it as a small pan) put directly on the remains of coal. The second batch turned out better-baked and below even crackling.

For lunch we had a freshly baked bun with condensed milk and tea. I ate with pleasure. As it turns out – there is nothing complicated, it would wish. And at the stake can be oven pies.
Then another caught sprat. Counted – 49 pieces! And it is also necessary to train and clean … To detail this evening turned into 2 pans, and even on the left ear. Well, okay, that small – but fresh and tasty.

Then warmed water in kettles, and just showered at a fire. Bath was just 3 days ago. After dinner, he ran more along the coastal strip of the taiga, scored a little fungi. But it will be tomorrow. Clouds something running around, but the rain is not watered.

Irina turned the revision of food – almost at the end. But the days left to go 5 for acquiring the stuff in the nearest village Elance or Sinskaya.
By evening, the temperature dropped to 15° C.
21-30, a retreat.

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

Great album “River Lena”

Thursday, August 18, 67 day of the journey

Map Р51-29_30, Р52-25_26
6 am – drizzling rain, sleep on, the temperature of + 14° C.

part 4: river Lena

8 am – overcast, but no rain. Get out of the tent. Wash your face and proceed to business. by Lena Top start to traipse tugs and self-propelled barges. The tanker was. He hauled firewood, made a fire. A little pee diary. Irina is hosted by the fire – prepares soup soup from yesterday’s catch. Half of the fish pot – no matter what size it! Instead of potatoes – young and pretty impressive boletus, most importantly, that strong. Well, some vermysheli. And the rest – to taste. We had breakfast, leisurely packed up and left. Kilometre after three began the first findings.

On the left bank rolls, and probably for a long time, Kazanka, lies next to the blue barrel out of gasoline. The boat tied with a rope to a large rock. It is evident that sank – all in the mud.

Meters in 500 – one more, but this is already inverted keel up.
Then he met a tractor trailer with the piece of iron on it – it’s that trailed on 2 wheels, hay rake or stir. A little more passed – and on the shore is on the side of the motorcycle “IZH Planeta-5”. The bailiff, inspected – torn chain. Gasoline in the tank a little bit there.

Not so complicated, and repairs, as for me. What he was thrown …? The nearest village 20 kilometers, Until d.Krestyah – even closer. Do not arrived and left. It is here, perhaps, lies for a long time, went under water – all in the garbage half.
Then, on the banks saw a flag on a long zherdine – lying on the grass. They picked up and delivered. A photo. Later, when I moved away, I thought – and may knowingly raised, it can type alarm some. Well, for example: – “Transfer the me to the other side,” or “Take me out of here.” Hard to say.

The village Kytyl-Dura could not go – away from the water, a couple of kilometers to stomp. Just a bite in the bushes on the bank.

By evening we reached the MTF Oy-Muran. New church on the beach. Corral, some shacks for shelter. On the shore at the motorboat they had two children – asked about the shop. They said that there is no here and there d.Edey. Well then this is it will be tomorrow. Gone are below a couple of kilometers and became the parking lot. Camp fire dinner. I ran on the pine forests on the bank and got a bit of oil, syroezhek and even found some mushrooms. Will be on the soup tomorrow with boletus. Dinner and climbed into the tent.

Included Irinin CellPhones – is “MegaFon”. Telephone successfully underwent a deep discharge of the battery. And now, it keeps well. Released in ICQ, I chatted a bit with his sons – Andrew and Dima. At work I banged – everything is normal, expected in September, when I get back.

Do not have time to lie down, the outside noise was heard, and the lowing – cows back to the farm. I had to get out and drive away from the tents and kayaks most curious cows. And, of course, the cows in the county have imposed a bunch of minutes. End time is approaching 23 th hour.

Parking: N 61 ° 05,391 ‘E 126 ° 16,040’ SH 101m, S 2295. Km.
The day passed 44 km.

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

Friday, August 19, 68 day of the journey

Map Р52-25_26
6 am – cow stormed the tent, tapped his hand on the fabric and bark loudly. Jumps and surprised lowed. Get out and chasing them was too lazy, just looked. Cows go on their own, and even without a shepherd – probably all know and do not require supervision. Clever they are here. The herd has passed, and we fell asleep again.

9 in the morning, sunny, slight breeze, warm. Welded a sip of coffee, we found that sugar does at the end – there was only a tablespoon at breakfast. Irina began to cook soup with boletus, and I washed off in a tent – it is necessary to finish the blog for yesterday and today.

Then he knocked out the results on a map – there are about 155 km. Before lunch, we must go to the village and to make small purchases in the five-day products. And then it will be necessary to go to the right bank of the Lena, soon to appear Lena Pillars. To pass the measured waist – 100 cm (112 cm and was before the campaign). For 2.5 months to lose weight – and this is very good.

11-30. Pokapatsya little rain, a little hindered gather. Therefore came only 11-40. By the village Edey reached only 13-30. A break in the store from 13 to 15 hours. As a result, because of our slowness, I protorchal two o’clock on the shore in a kayak, and Irina 2 times ran to the store. First time dragged a little potato and a bottle of milk. Snack immediately in kayaks. Then he went below and started in front of the monument – it can be clearly seen from the water. From a bit closer to the store, and then waiting up to 15 hours. The village itself is located at the top, on the precipice. A photo. The village is quite large, 2 shops, one of them private. Located next.

Finally, there was a 15-20 Irina, downloaded products in a sealed bag and walked away. Immediately headed for the right bank. We moved closer to the island and started to look Haryyalah duct. Finally near o.Harusalah went into the canal with a notable passage, which led us to the right bank, right to the top of the stone rests.

Near the river Achchygy-Taryng shield is “Nature park Lena Pillars. Pass … tra-la-la … is prohibited.”

1111111111111111111

In big red letters. And then fuck PARK?! … I ask. This park does not even preserve some kind of hunting for local potentates. Well, there are no words. Okay – senility many in our country, and more and more every year. Although no longer in our – I’ll forget, I’m already in another fiefdom.

Principality is far away, and the famous Lena Pillars here they are – are … and perestoyat all this rat race …
We obtain from the hermetic bag camera and start shooting. Well-at … some candles are impressive. I would like to open his mouth and not close – it is necessary, what Nature has created. Wind does verse and began to take midge.
19-30. In the parking lot in front of steel p.Minsk on the right bank.

Tent set on a large slab of stone, just a little sand leveled. Irina took dinner – plans to cook the potatoes with mushrooms. I hitched a spinning lure and fishing. In recent days, the water subsided, and a little clear of dregs.

Starts peck fish. I caught 3 bass and what the silvery fish with a red tail and reddish spots – little spotted. I do not know the name – will probably never caught. Then he caught a small pike. Tomorrow will be a soup and maybe even get a piece of fried. The sun went down, and stopped biting.

He returned to the tent, dinner. Checked Mobil – works “Megaphone”. Released in ICQ – no one wanted to answer.
In the evening the temperature dropped to 15° C.
Parking: N 61 ° 05,823 ‘E 126 ° 47,766’ H 104 m, S 2327. Km.
The day was 32 km.

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

Great album “Lena Pillars”

Saturday, August 20, 69 day of the journey

Lena pillars

Map Р52-25_26
7-52, rise. In the morning a little cool – + 11 ° C, did not want to get out. Over the river is white fog. Coffee brews today Irina and supplies in a sleeping bag. Then he got out, cleaned the fish and brought firewood. I leave the spoon – do not bite. He engaged in the diary. The sun came out, beginning to warm rapidly – is + 19 ° C. I put mobilku to charge. Today promises a sunny day.

Starts to crawl out gnats, too, sensed the heat. You have to have breakfast in the smoke of the fire, though not so gnaws and does not climb into his mouth. The sky is covered with some kind of bluish haze – to see somewhere ahead on the right bank of lights taiga (just inside the park).

We come at 11 o’clock, and the farther you go, the more clearly heard the smell of burning taiga litter.
After 10 km on the right bank met hut. Staying there a bunch of lighters which are not yet empty, with gas, but a little junk, did not immediately ignite. And already unnecessary sheets with descriptions on Olekma.

It begins another long section of the Lena Pillars. Many take pictures. Irina earned a camera in manual mode. Many shoots and until the evening it does not shut down – afraid that the second time will not turn on.

After 13 hours have passed trailing smoke – over the taiga is a cloud, and it blows toward Lena. Very close. The sun came out, few clouds in the sky, but they almost do not interfere with shooting. After so many days of rain Nature has given the opportunity to take a picture of Lena Pillars. As for the order – thank you!

part 4: river Lena

And some of the columns are impressive: – “Oo-oo-oo-oo !!!”, or “Wow-AA !!!”.
But also about the fact that it is necessary to produce food, do not forget – 40 meters behind the lure drags. I catch a big one and a couple of small perch. So in the afternoon we will fish.

Near the o.Batamay-Aryta, near the biggest pillars, we met in the parking lot near the shore as much as three ship “Demian poor”, “Mechanic Kulibin” and “Mikhail Svetlov”. Looks like there they planned park – brought on a tour of a rest. On the shore a lot of people walking. Someone is trying to fish a noise. They photographed and passed on the shore of some houses next to fry kebabs or may sell beer.

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

Great album “Lena Pillars”

The matter is already in the evening, it is necessary to look for parking. Send a kilometer of four and began on the shore next to the regular columns. Unload, we put the tent right on the gravel. Bonfire, dinner – buckwheat with cucumber and fried pike. Starts to get dark, went down with the ship three vacationers people. Sunset, Moon got out.
Lights out.

Parking: N 61 ° 09,006 ‘E 127 ° 35,742’ H 104 m, S 2372. Km.
The day was 45 km.

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

Sunday, August 21, 70 day of the journey

Map Р52-25_26
On the morning after 6 hours of drumming rain and did not let out of the tent to 8-30.
Finally we got out of the tent – all wet, cloudy, but not cold. Koster and morning kofy for sifting and raise the tone for 1 hour until cooked breakfast. Irina took the soup, and I diary. I do not like it when I’m better near the fire and hungry eyes look in the pot. Well, if I was still silent, and then try to give wise advice. That drives away in a tent or go to hell.

A little pee diary, looked a map – there are still 80 km to the end of the route.
10-08. We have breakfast and going – go to 11-20.

From the west pulls the smoke from the fire, the sun in the south-east, the conditions for the shooting was not good.
But still a little bit trying to shoot. In contrast d.Chkalov (on the island of Tit-Ary) Lena Pillars end. Take a course across the Lena to the other side. By going through the duct to the left bank. Along the way, we made a snack. On the left bank before d.Elanka Irina wants to find a hiding place for geocaching.

We came to the specified coordinates, found a place described. Clambered a place as a mountain sheep. Described bifida is, and there is no hiding place. A whole hour of time ugrohali – no luck, then someone, you see, we brushed up in a brazen.

Then there came into d.Elanka. Irina has left the road in a new part of the village, where “yamschitsky farmstead” museum. And I’m stuck on the shore. Including mobile phones and sent home SMS-ku. “Megaphone” works here. Nearby paid camping site, fenced with poles, a corral. Then cafes and a lot of cars around him.

He climbed on the high bank to the right of the ravine, where there is an old part of the village. I looked through the passages between the islands to the right bank.

I came across an old cemetery. Graves coachmen 1914 and older, inscriptions on stone slabs to disassemble. He returned to the canoe, and then limped Irina. Nothing she did not find. The museum did not like – a new house, stylized antique. Several toll houses, commercial shop – everything is closed.

They climbed into a canoe and went to the right bank. On their way ducts 32 minutes. On the road we caught perch on wobbler. Little passed along the right bank, and stopped on the sand.

The time is about 20 hours, unload, put up tents. Irina has been preparing dinner and I took spinning and walked along the shore – leave the spoon. The water in the county continues to fall and is cleaner, more transparent. After beginning d.Edey caught fish. But today, do not bite, just Lena river – a great river, and fish somewhere train there. But where – who knows it.

Supper and lay down to sleep at 21-30.
Parking: N 61 ° 13,357 ‘E 128 ° 13,907’ H 103 m, S 2412. Km.
The day passed 40 km.

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

Great album “River Lena”

Monday, August 22, 71 days the way

Map Р52-25_26, Р52-27_28
7-50. Climb. The sun was hot already. At night it was cool – in a tent + 7 ° C, and in the morning already + 19 ° C. Wood, fire, sip coffee – and begin to deal with the usual morning chores.

9-30. We had breakfast. Temperature increases in the eyes – is + 22 ° C. A little pee diaries and began to turn off the camp. It remains 42 km – this may be our last move on the Lena river.

They went immediately released wobbler on the track – there is a small pike! Then something else hvatanuli. When moored to the shore, and handed spinning Irina began frantically put on one’s shoes. Irina exhausting line and screaming that something is difficult – it does not pull out, spinning strongly bent. And it gives me spinning. Slowly I dragged to the shore – and on the tail of a small pike clutched teeth and hanging another hefty pike!

She certainly did not want to shore – only opened her jaw and flashed its tail. But then I’ll see her good! Miracles! On the shore flew only a small pike. Her tail remained only traces of other hychnitsy teeth.
He walked along the shore, leaving the spinner. Even something a couple of times trying to miss, but frustrated. Finally, in a tributary creek hvatanuli decent pike – of course, not so great that it clung to the tail of his friend. Today we fish.

Next on the shore was a hut – cordon Park. And after a tur.kompleks “Deering Yuryakh”. Hit the beach, went to meet friends. There used to be excavated ancient man, but the museum itself is not – empty stands. They take pictures, get off the wooden stairs to the beach, on the hill. At the same time the top Irina found a hiding place for geocaching.

Deering-Yurah complex: N 61°12,292 ‘E 128°28,135’
Then after 6 km. Sands began. Naked gritty and the high bank. A photo. It tukulans (translated from the Evenki – Sands). The local people there having fun – rides on the ass on top of pre-pack wearing this very place, then immediately head over heels in Lena. A couple of troughs we saw. Irina also begged – but I did not let. Where it with a sore foot, and even climb on a cliff. In the evening we went to the mouth of r.Buotama. Here too, tourist complex to toll tourists.
500 rubles. per person + 150 rubles. for being in the park “Lena Pillars”.

Slightly higher r.Buotama located bison nursery. Canada presented 30 pieces. They have acclimatized and give offspring. Tourists to carry an additional cost.
In order to see the park ranger station. “Deny alloy sports tourists in 2011 and Blue rivers Buotama”. In connection with the fire … for the entire year. Yeah – and winter too …

Go ahead, go a little bit in the beginning and find r.Buotama Kachikatskoy ducts. Go through it to the s.Kachikattsy. Wow helped print the image from space. And between the islands and you can get lost looking at the night.

By 21 o’clock we reached the desired point – straight from the river is a good gravel road right up to the slopes. In the photo from space it can be clearly seen. Here and disembarked on the shore. More remains km 2. So it will overnight stay calm until the very village Kachikattsy. On the other side of the town lights visible Mokhsogollokh. The sun had set, but still not much dark. Time we have about half an hour. Quickly put the tent. Bonfire, cook gerkulesku as the fastest, and tea. We have supper. All managed to complete darkness. Lights out.

Parking: N 61 ° 18,176 ‘E 128 ° 54,239’ H 94 m, S 2452. Km.
The day passed 40 km. Total 2452 km. At the finish point out on schedule (21-23 August).

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

Tuesday, August 23, 72 day of the journey. daily rest

Map Р52-27_28
Time about 8 hours, in the morning southwest wind, strong enough, then slowly subsided. Coffee spoon scraped past – still left for tomorrow and all. Then Irina cooks soup of yesterday pike breakfast.

And then – a lot of cases. Dismantling, washing and drying kayaks. Washing clothes. Before lunch it was the sun, and then start to pull clouds and even a little pokapatsya. But all the time to dry and almost packed backpacks. We went for exploration to the highway. Irina first walk, looked at the surroundings – wanted to get to the village, but came across the river and back. And on the road get away – leg hurts. Then I went. Eliminated in the road – a branch from trunk to Kachikattsy.
Go 20 minutes, about 1.5 km. Then do not go, tomorrow drag backpacks here, and we will catch a ride. He returned to the camp.

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

Heated water in the pot and the kettle and made to wash in front of the road. Then tea with condensed milk. Porridge from the remnants of buckwheat and rice. Cereals have only one cooking – in the morning. For all products went almost to zero.
19-55. Dinner and removed all the little things added another in backpacks – and sleep.

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena
Medal “Lapa Wanderer”

part 4: river Lena
Awarded Irina Opanchuk.

part 4: river Lena
And I – the red cap.

part 4: river Lena
Bag on the road.

Wednesday, August 24, 73 day of the journey. Hitchhiking to Aldan.

We got up at 6 am. We drank some coffee last time in nature – scraped out of the bag last 2 teaspoons. At breakfast, milk porridge and tea. Maker decided not to take with them – left by the fire, but the bowler was taken. Another might be useful. Packed finally backpacks. We sat down on the track. I perched on a stump camera and made a parting shot.

Backpacks slung over his shoulders and stomped on the track. Kayaks on the truck – the road is normal, you can carry with him. So we go to one a pass. Half an hour later came to the highway – 1.6 kms.

part 4: river Lena

And once I stopped the UAZ – planted to the main road (M56) at the top. At the turn of cafes, snack machines stop. But something did not carry. Maybe soon be gone – but we have the same backpacks are not for hitchhiking, and another plus kayak on the trolley – a whole bunch of things. We stood up to 11 hours and went all 100 kilometers, to the river or something, it would seem Dobrolet. Road gravel road, not in very good condition.

Time 13 hours – again stand and vote. I wait a bit and turned up another UAZ – it already went away to Aldan. We drove nearly 20 hours. They told the peasants about his journey. The road to the main gravel road. Asphalt laid chunks of about 5 km Amga, Tommot, Aldan.

The Aldan was at 19.30, we stopped at the station. Tickets to Tynda worth 2300 only Compartment places expensive for a minibus about the same. We decided to get on hitchhiking. Again we went to the track, choose a seat at a crossroads, before the descent.

The time is now past. Local driver, the dispatcher routes, tossed from the intersection about 1 km down a little roadside cafe before. Then stop truckers. We stood still 1.5 hours – no one, looking for the night, not taking. Cloud creeps, storm, lightning. Somewhere near heavily struck by lightning. Soon we will cover.

Pull back a little further along the road (about 1 km from the house) to the water intake station. Turn right into the forest and after 100 meters of stop. So that the track was not visible and machine noise does not interfere with sleep. Irina puts a tent, and I ran to the water intake to the watchman. Accumulated water. I wanted to ask for the night, but my grandfather said he was not supposed to outsiders. He complains that the TV stopped working – and the city is also not shown.

Apparently in the TV tower struck by lightning before it. Grandfather warned that we spend the night across the road in the morning and still come to get water. It starts to rain, it is small. Fast dark. I come back to the tent with a pot of water, but the rain increases and pushes the tent. Bypass dinner dry rations – crackers and iced tea from a 2 liter bottle, which took the road in the morning. It begins showers and a heavy thunderstorm. But it’s not scary – we are in a tent. Bedding.

Pretty warm – +24°C. At night it was +14°C.
The day passed hitchhiking little more than 400 km.

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

Thursday, August 25, 74 day of the journey. Hitchhiking to Neryungri.

6-30. We get out of the tent. After yesterday’s rain and thunderstorms in the forest all wet, the trees it is better not to touch, drenched with a bucket of water. I ran along the paths – fungi found, and not surprisingly, naselenka near all trampled. So for breakfast scraped the last remnants of a handful of millet and powdered milk for dairy porridge. Bring water and again boil in a kettle for making tea and water all day. Pour into a 2 liter bottle. We roll up and go to the track.
8 hours stand. Finally stops UAZ signalers – go to prevention radio relay, about 28 km from here, and we pick up. We talk every time about his journey.

Then we pick up guys on the pickup truck with oxygen cylinders – carry them to refuel. Irina goes to the cockpit, and I have to sit in the back on the top of the tank. Well, that just passed the 28 km, but it would be completely repulsed the fifth point. The road is not asphalt. Then another move – at KAMAZ. Backpacks have to throw in the body.

KAMAZ stopped to turn to slide, so to shoulder backpacks on shoulders and climb up. Near visible mast radio relay station. After some time trucker stops with an empty body – drove the glass from Blagoveshchensk to Yakutsk, is now returning. Backpacks throws in the body, and themselves into the cockpit. It goes slow, about 50 km/h. The driver kept trying to elicit from us, and what is the trick here is such a journey.

And what kind of a vacation – for 3 months in the taiga, and even without a gun. And backpacks out such a huge drag. Why do you need it? Well there by plane from Yakutsk to depart by train from Tommot leave or out by shuttle bus takes you directly to the station – this is understandable. And that is why hitchhiking? … unclear. Yes, even with a bunch of transplants, with an overnight stay at the roads. So we have not come to a consensus. By evening transship ridge height up to 1400 m. The road became worse, although in many places repaired and laid new pieces. By sunset we reach Chulman, time is about 21 hours. At first we reach the local bus to Neryungri, to the city center and then by bus to the train №102 / Railway Station. It’s dark outside. Buy tickets for 075 train to Moscow. First sitting 7 train ride to Tynda, and then go to the second-class 13th and before the end. Well, at least so. Sitting in the waiting room until 22-57 in Moscow, and local (6 hour) until 4.57 am. And then go to 5 days. Money remains very little – almost exclusively on my ticket from Moscow to Kiev, and a little on the products on the road.

A little snack, Irina bought something there in the cupboard – I do not remember. They do each their own affairs – I wrote a diary and Irina crossword puzzles, which carry with them for 3 months. With a little bit talked passengers – Irina with a woman, I’m some guy.

And everyone wondering how this wind brought us here. Well, a little talked about our itinerary. Later we started and treat. The woman we bought coffee at the buffet and some food.

In 4-30 declared fit. Download, we go. Wagon sedentary as train only with soft seating. Before Tynda go 6 hours. If possible, sitting in a chair and lay down to sleep.
The day passed hitchhiking the last 280 km, and of little public transport.

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

Friday, August 26, 75 day of the journey. Tynda – went home.

About 11 o’clock arrived in Tynda, unloaded and moved to the station. Our train will reshape, add more cars, including our 13th.

Irina went to town to buy some food for the road, I loitered near the backpacks. They gave the train slowly began to drag everything into the car and shove on the top shelf. Irina came running with a bag of every meal. Finally, download and go. They settled, a little bite, drank tea and climbed back to bed on their shelves.

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

27 – August 30 Road, 76 – 79 days of travel

The first days were sleeping soundly for days. Varied passengers. Gypsies bit annoyed – drove the whole family, and behaved very arrogantly too. As if they were in the car the most important birds. Here you will come to mind talking (not even talk and yell) in mobilke when CellPhones enabled speaker on full volume (speakerphone) and hear the other side of the car …

And all this for half an hour … in their own language. It’s their mother so her friends gossiping.
We drove Baikal – this time from the north end of the road too close to the shore.
Then we went Severomuisk very long tunnel, the length of more than 15 km. 26 years of digging.

part 4: river Lena

Lena moved. Later we went to the familiar station – Korshunikha, Bratsk, Taishet, Krasnoyarsk, Novosibirsk. We pass through the Urals. Too long, old yet, tunnels.

At major stations wander out, stretch their tails and get some oxygen.
And in the rest of the time eating – sleeping – we looked out the window again, ate, drank tea.

Before Moscow chose the moment when people slept and washed in the toilet of the head – first, Irina, and then me. Scored boiling water, diluted in a circle, one merges – the other washes.
And then they clean up after themselves – there was a mop. But what to do – 5 days on the train.

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

part 4: river Lena

Wednesday, August 31, 80 day of the journey

In Moscow, we arrived about 6 am, the train did not even late. Immediately I ran to the cashier and bought a ticket to Kiev on 12-30. Well, do not have to hang around for a long time at the station.
Then he moved to the metro station Kiev, settled down in the waiting room.

At the station, the next upgrade, a pancake. One input – output from the opposite side.
Only pass through a metal detector, which rings incessantly – but nobody is paying attention. And guard at the entrance as much as 5 pcs. toil, and a dog. Periodically conduct shepherd dog on the waiting room, sniffing the bag. And our backpacks also sniffed. The poor animal, hot, tongue dumped. All side outlets are closed. Well, as in war. And all for our convenience and with theirs benefit you.

And other major stations – stations surrounded by 2 – 3 meter high fences, and the passage to the trains only through one narrow door with a guard. And in some places already and are metal detectors and ring. Merry time … That’s who need to catch up with the hysteria in our home with you?

Irina ran to the grocery store and dragged a whole bunch of money in the past.
I had half her stuff in a backpack. Well, why me so much, I just train one night to sleep, and there and Kiev.
Finally announced the landing, stuffed backpack and kayak on the shelves, I came to say goodbye to Irina. Few stood near the car, I said goodbye. She shouldered the backpack and went on the subway. She even today we need to get to Vladimir.
Go. At night – another insanity. 2 border and customs between the two autonomous principalities.

Thursday, September 1, 81 day’s journey

We arrived in Kiev, unloaded, moved to the suburban railway station.
The train, 25 minutes and Boyarka. All – I’m home.

part 4: river Lena

He finished the campaign.

Source: Home diary Chugai Valentina
Part 4 diary Chugai Valentina

Translation: Google

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