Route: Kurumkan, r.Garga, d.Pod-Ikat, Ikat Pass, weather station Upper Ikat, Ikat lake, r.Ikat, r.Vitimkan, Ruzan Vit to w/d BAM Bridge, transfer to st.Hani, p.Hani, r.Olёkma, Lena river to Kachikattsy, hitchhiking to st.Neryungri.
Diary of a hike – Hani rivers, Olekma ch.III
Part of the route is 668 km.
Friday, July 22, 40 day of the journey. Hani Station
Map O50-30, O51-25
6 a.m. Disembark at Hani station. The train is 16 minutes. The conductor woke up when the train was already standing at the station. With fright, and in an emergency rush dress, shoes, and everything is going to throw out on the platform. I ran again in the car and check – if anything forgotten. The people in the car sleeping peacefully, one I have something moving around. After 5 minutes, the train leaves. Early in the morning, almost no people. Few ran through the station as determined as it is more convenient to go to the river. Right down through the station down to the south. Small compact settlement with a dozen of panel five-story building. Heating pipes – on top of the ground. We pass between the five-story building, cross the playground with a football field. Over the five-story building on the bank of the river, the small vegetable gardens, dachas. On the road between them down to the river. On the navigator marks the point:
st.Hani N 56° 54,696′ E 119° 57,563′ H 682 m., S 1274 km.
From this point we begin the second part of our itinerary. Situated on a small patch of the river. Water in the river Hani little, but naduvnushek should suffice. Shops in the village opened in 10-11 hours, so not much hurry. Cook porridge, oatmeal, a little breakfast. Resorted two formidable aunts quarreling with the intention – to find out who it is then blows smoke on theirs cottages and debris on the shore ?! Poulybatsya and porascprashival of the village, and asked where to buy bread and where is the shops. Bread – in the shop at the station. There are a few shops right in their homes.
They also said that the entire summer there was no rain and the water in the river is very small – but what I can see for myself. They dispersed peacefully. Irina went to the shops – to buy some food. I pumped up the kayak and slowly shift the stuff of backpacks in Germ. Kilson on “Viking 4.7” has not yet put – and a lot of small Kamenyuki. Let’s go while in the “Pike”.
Before going to the library of reports on sports trips Moscow city center tourist club http://tlib.ru unearthed and opened the report №4454 Eastern Siberia (Baikal): pos. Hani – p. Hani – p. Olekma – mouth. R. Cross – dies – p. Tuolba – p. Lena – pos. Alekseevka 1983 5KS, water, Medvedev E. (Leningrad).
More or less intelligible description of our route. He took the sheets with a description and a little r.Hani read.
Began shower, covered all the film, pulled his cloak and went to save Irina. But it is not found, he reached the five-story building and the rain stopped. He returned to the canoe, and after 5 minutes and ran Irina – she spent in the store. Is indignant at crazy prices – everything is almost 2 times more expensive.
And then, on closer examination we found that she lectured milk with expired shelf life, and yogurt – all the bloated, fermented, overdue. But with yogurt we realized when he drank half a loaf. Pour did not – drank. Irina wanted to run to the store and make trouble, but I kept it. Drunk Well yogurt – well … maybe not blow over. I ran on the shore downstream to see and appreciate the little river. OK – small but passable. Along the coast is quite clean, garbage is not practical. It is evident that this is a place of rest to local residents, such as the park.
12-05. Packed all herms finally changed into a wet-operating, and pushed off.
River rapids at level 2, 2+. Jewels are many, and not always seen a clear passage. We have to turn and often go out and shove one’s way through between the rocks. So we are sitting in boots and no skirts.
Within 3 minutes after the start of the alloy drank a canoe full of water – crushed between the stones. Unload, they poured water and walked on. Then again scored the water – this time not to unload steel – otcherpali circles. Then regularly, almost after each threshold otcherpyvali water. Sitting wet to the waist and above. But while in the heat does not freeze, and the weather is quite warm. While water lapped ice.
Half an hour after the village r.Hani departed from the mountains and spread over the pebble braids. Finely, sometimes you have to go out and carry the kayak hands. Gone 2 the bridge – w/e and cars.
After the bridge trying to leave the spoon – empty.
By 13 o’clock in the water in the river has increased and the going became easier. Constantly go rapids and Shiver, quickly losing altitude. After the snack was very good. Water is already scarce, there is room for maneuver. Sometimes there are small stretches.
River Ust-Kyuёl added water. (Map О51-25).
Railroad goes right, sometimes almost on the shore, and along the river at the bottom of the mound. We see that constantly pour a mound and strengthen, although the river, too, does not give up – sometimes tempted the weak areas.
There were up to 18 hours, until they saw that the weather began to deteriorate. They began to spit, put the tent, dragged all things. Strong gusts of wind and rain driven into the tent. They piled on mats without undressing, and fell asleep. We woke up for about 22 hours.
Crawled, cooked lasagne, dinner. I tried to walk on the beach and leave the spoon – it’s getting dark, the fish are not biting.
Parking: N 57° 00,025′ E 120° 14,760′ H 562 м., S 1302 км.
In less than a day, there were 28 km. Loss of height – 120 m Fun and wet stream -. I still like it, Irina also beeps. Pants exactly wet all day, and even a little higher.
More detailed photos №6 here
Saturday, July 23, 41 days the way
Map О51-25
8 a.m. Temperature + 21.5 ° C. Overcast, mist small. For breakfast oatmeal. For 10 hours we finish diaries and turn the camp. Exit 11. Come closer to the shoals, Shiver thresholds. And the further down – the more powerful. Lateral inflows of water is added. Count the number of Shiver and rapids meaningless – they immediately one after the other. At level 2 complexity.
The closer to Olekma station – the harder it is to level 2+ complexity.
At the exit of almost every threshold standing trees 0.5 … 0.8m. First came without skirts, and after each threshold otcherpyvali water. Most were in fine rifts jump and provodit- smuggling in a kayak. Therefore, the skirts are not pulled. Quite often r.Hani smeared on the pebbles into many branches, and not always guess the most abounding and correct. Sometimes a small lake spreads wide on the fine gravel, and then many streams merging with cobble steps into the mainstream. So wander on the ankle in the middle of the river, groping passage. A pre-review every suspicious place – does not make sense, they go one after another, almost every 100 meters Here and jumping.. Pleso is very rare. Bystrotok, shivera or threshold – and so the whole river today. So go ahead, not looking at anything. Yes, and there is nothing too complicated. We go so far without kilson mode, the depth is not allowed. Railroad of BAM is almost on the bank of the river, sometimes we go next to the embankment. The trains pass occasionally. We saw workers, which is something poked on the mound.
Irina continues to knock the camera. That does not turn, you do not want to record the recorded image on a USB flash drive. This extends even to the Vitim. I think he’s just damp. Tried to take him at night in a sleeping bag and warm – sometimes helps a little noticeably higher and knocks again. My soapbox is removes.
17-30. We went to the w / d station Olekma, moored near the beach. Up goes the path that leads out to the road. Further to the right and on the road to the village. If the left – it is to the train station. Irina ran the Food shopping. And I do footcloths land on the sun, and wander along the beach.
There was no one, then came the local … the guy with the bag of beer and a woman, came to the canoe to take a look. Well, I came out of the bushes, toward them. Then the guy on me – like that I immediately took their place, they come here to bathe. But as I came closer, the more it was reduced in size. I poulybalsya and offered footcloths outweigh the other side, if they interfere with them so much swim. Woman Man dragged away. they did not bathe – water ice, just sunbathing on the rocks. Although the sun at times got out of Tucek and was hot.
Half an hour later came to Irina. Product selection here is richer and less price than in Hani. He says he bought better near the school or in the shop a little further away.
As she ran, I dried the foot-cloths and wet his pants. Download product in sealed bags. All sank. We pulled skirts, sealed and moved on. Water no longer, and she became a full-flowing and r.Hani wider and more powerful rapids. Gone 2 the bridge – w / e and cars. Car without a handrail and without barriers – a small copy of the Vitim. Before the slide empties into the river on the right Kuranah. We begin to look for parking – tomorrow as planned we should have a day rest. A couple of fun rapids, rolls up to 1 meter. Sometimes it fills up to my chest.
Finally, after a threshold under a rock on the left bank seemed sand. Gone are the long cobblestone spit landed on the left bank. I Walked, looked – slightly below found a great place to camp among the trees on the sand. We go back to unload, drag everything under the trees. First of all change clothes at all dry.
Then he drank a sip to relieve stress, ate bacon with bread. Yet Hani – a fun river, the continuous rapid-place, which did not allow us to relax the whole day. I keep on their toes.
We put the tent, brought firewood. Bonfire, dinner – the usual evening business.
Parking: N 57° 01,814′ E 120° 48,080′ H 422 m., S 1341 km.
In less than a day was 39 km. Loss of height – 140 m.
Sunday, July 24, 42 day of the journey. Day rest
Map О51-25
8-30. Today, we sleep a little longer, there’s no hurry. Yesterday’s thresholds thorough tired. At night it was + 19 ° C + 22 ° morning C. In the morning sun, blue sky and wonderful weather!
Then still I forced myself to get out of the tent. Morning coffee with gingerbread (Irina bought in Olekma).
Then Irina took up cooking breakfast, and I kayak repair. Plastered with a few small punctures. For a long time fiddling with a large patch on the rear right cylinder. Again start the grass. Remove the valve, I tried to apply the patch inside. Changed valve replacement – something began to be manufactured, already tortured – often jammed and can not be closed.
The problems with the batteries, a feeling that they have increased Rvnutr. I picked up 4 pc. better and put it on charging from the solar battery. Then Irina put them in your camera. Normally I earned. Hooray!
But solar panel is something sdyhaet – fell current given off. Can I soaked it. Hard to say…
For lunch – traditional pancakes with condensed milk. Irina perestirala all the odds and ends, hung on a rope, dried. Well, when the sun and no rain. And they have a little bit tortured.
Weather whole day wonderful – warm and sunny. And the place is just wonderful!
There is a sand and the sun, and trees, where you can hide in the shadows. Under the feet of the sand, and then to the river – pebbles and cobbles.
After lunch, a long time fiddling with the kayak. In the evening the wind rose, swooped clouds. By the night cold. 2 pot of water heated and just showered – bath did not, tired of the day messing around with kayak. Then we went to walk along the coastal taiga. Ate little red currants, we returned to the camp and went to the other side, downstream to the end of the sand. Then they ran into the blueberry bushes. Long grazing, collecting directly into the mouth, is not tired of seeing and teeth do not start cramp. After this began to collect in the p / e package.
Wandering through the bog bilberry to 22 hours, is already beginning to darken. Only then returned to the tent.
22-44 appends diaries. Lights out.
Monday, July 25, 43 day of the journey
Map О51-25, О51-26
8 a.m. After st.Olёkma we had ground coffee. So now you can start each morning with a sip of freshly brewed coffee.
Then breakfast – oatmeal and a bowl of blueberries and sugar. We are going to immediately put on life jackets and skirts – Yesterday’s thresholds are impressed, they have become more powerful and more difficult. In line appeared healthy Kamenyuki, not just one pebble. Ramparts great floods kayak.
10-50. They went out. Immediately went thresholds between small areas chute. Plёsov virtually none. We continue to lose height significantly. 4 kilometers across two bridges, the railroad goes to the right bank r.Hani.
Even closer to the mouth, on the right bank opposite the prominent rock and saw a dugout near the canopy of the boards.
They went out and looked. A little depth – not very old grave with a fence.
At the deepest place rocks and virtually no current. Apparently there is well caught fish.
Dugout: N 57° 03,621′ E 120° 54,450′
And even after an hour, and came to r.Olёkma.
Arrow: N 57° 02,598’E 121° 00,813′ H 378 m, S 1368. Km.
Total r.Hani – passed 86 km in height dropped by 304 m.
River Hani passed! A few photos.
More detailed photos №6 here
River Olekma
Gone for about 1 km away and began to eat. I unloaded the kayak and put in place kilson. All Hani river we passed in naduvashki-punt mode without kilson.
Water in Olekma significantly larger river is wider, deeper and more powerful. It can feel the sensations on the water. The color is darker and it is not as clear as in Hani (there is quite an aquarium with stones). Today, July 25, as long as we go on in advance to schedule up to 1 day.
15-40. Finished snack and kayak loaded. Go ahead. After 2 km starting the first rapids. Descriptions sensible for r.Olёkma we do not have, so I go completely zadraennye – in skirts and lifejackets. And the rapids went serious – more powerful than before that we went to Vitim. Shafts of up to 1.5 m, and some more white, turned in the opposite direction foamy crests. The village women said that recently died in the rapids guy on the motorboat – it just turned over the stern roller. There was no life jacket and swam. The coolest ass trying to get, and I do not climb trees. Especially because the kayak confidently behaves on such rough water and we can easily walk across in any direction. Abutted together and the speed is enough to leave. Sometimes it gushes through the kayak, but it’s not scary – Hermetic bags securely tied and we skirts.
Character rapids is about the same. Spit of huge boulders, the size of a soccer ball to the tent. The restriction, all the power of the water goes into the narrow passage. In the middle of the spit starts a turn in one direction or another, the water piles on the rocky shore and then formed the most powerful and high rollers. Close to the rocky shore of the external oblique shafts are from the coastal big rocks.
From the spit too shafts, where these trees are found on the main jet and formed the largest shafts and barrels. We tried to go closer to the spit, if allowed to stones, or on the edge of the main jet is closer to spit and not to climb into the barrels. All this was possible due to good maneuverability and stability kayaks “Viking 4.7”.
From then on, hearing the noise threshold, trying to come to places closer to spit on internal small radius and threshold to pass close to the main shaft. If too much noise – then we go and peruse. But still with a view of the coast quite different than those already on the water near large rocks and trees outside. And yet – at the end of the rapids are often smooth and powerful closing shafts up to 2 meters … maybe more. How to measure – comparing the eye with an increase in sedentary kayak sailor, about 1m. But they are not dangerous if you keep your nose paddle all the time on them and do not get a lag. Just fun – take a ride on the shafts.
By the evening appeared on the Navigator 7 marks such thresholds. I noted Small Shiver.
The first major threshold – Syrylyr (Map O51-25). Two series of shafts. Initially passed along the edge of the first series is closer to spit PB, then went sharply to the left from the 3-meter ugly shaft with the opposite ridge on top. This is not the only motorboat will turn over the stern …
Threshold Tureex-Mastax – just ride for 2 meter shafts.
Before the threshold of Hadar on the right bank of excellent hefty sand spit. We got almost to the end and became the parking lot. For this it was necessary to go up, 3-4 meters, close to the willow bushes. For fire lumped fin on the spit.
Parking: N 57 ° 10,940 ‘E 120 ° 56,927’ H 347 m, S 1385 km.
Passed the Olekma at 25 km, and only a day – 44 km.
He discovered that the home is not flooded in the navigator map 2 kilometrovku Olekma. Sorry – you have to go through the paper version.
Tuesday, July 26, 44 day of the journey
Map О51-25, О51-26
Morning, the sun, the heat, the beach. To deal with paper maps and not quite accurate and meager descriptions. According to estimates, today should reach the hot springs. Water in the river came a bit.
9-30. For breakfast porridge, fish is not caught. Near the tent we saw traces of a small bear. Yesterday, late in the afternoon, saw the first live bear on Olekma. He noticed us and rode up the hill, did not have time to take a picture. Irina long pulled out cameras from Hermetic bags. As always at the right time all tangled and stuck.
11-05. They went out. Turn left and immediately begins the threshold Hadar, rather long, 2-stage, shafts. Just beyond the threshold on the right bank of the hut with white trims and a canopy on the left.
And before the river begins ples Tumullur. Beside her on the left bank of living hut. Living almost all year round, two men – Nicholas and Eugene. Near spinning squirrel dog. We went to talk. We sat a little, drank a cup of tea. Nikolai tells a little about life in the forest. Spring here is not spotted and a large water duralumin blown off the boat, they now have only an old rubber. Irina little photographs. Beautiful sandy clearing. Next to the hut sauna. Vegetable garden with potatoes, beds with dill, onion and other greens. Greenhouse cucumbers. Nikolay treats us smoked grayling. Thank you!
We packed and move on. Just beyond the river Tumullursky threshold begins. Come quickly, for a snack (14 hr.) Overcame 16 km. A little snack, try smoked grayling – delicious! Thanks again Nick!
After a series of thresholds snack again. Waypoints do not list them too much.
Then at home, when you make a diary choose from a saved track.
On the left river flows. Oldongdo, turn right, and at the end of the rotation, less than 1 km Oldongdo begins a series of rapids. Passed the normal, then rolls Tokur and after the river Tungurchakan another roll with good rolls – Tungurchakansky.
After he began to look out for along the banks of the hydrological post and seismic station. According to various old descriptions there should be close Olekminsk hot springs. As it turned out – these descriptions are wrong, and indicate the location by mistake. In fact, the hot spring well is located between the rivers and Tungurchakan Tungurcha, closer to the river. Tungurcha (this is different river – hence, apparently, and confusion). A hydrological post and seismic station has long been removed.
At about 19 heard the sound of the engine and on the right bank appeared a number of new houses with red roofs, a hangar for small aircraft, near the windmill. Part of the coast is cut and aligned under the runway. We set down for the hangar, close to the houses, the stairs. We walked along the houses, found men – Vladimir and Marina. Invite to stop and spend the night. The time is the night, so gratefully accept the invitation.
In one of the houses – a swimming pool with hot water, hydrogen sulfide. We were allowed to dip and warm their bones. The water in the pool is quite hot, more than 40 ° C, hard climb. Somehow I manage to get accustomed. We sat for 10 minutes, so for the first time more and can not be, can affect health. After dinner, tea, conversations and television. I went to bed, and even chatted with Irina Marina. Begun some series, it seems, “Fire”, Irina has gone to bed, too, and Marina still looked up to 3 o’clock in the morning.
At the new place to sleep quietly, always cool and woke up. During the night it began to rain.
Hot spring: N 57°17,481’E 121°28,698′ H 286 m, S 1434. Km.
The day passed 49 km.
Wednesday, July 27, 45 day of the journey
Map О51-26, О51-20
In the morning rain. Overlaid all thorough and long. We had breakfast. I put it on the charging of batteries. Few watched TV. But I do not like trying to find something to do, but Vladimir does everything himself, by refusing to help. We went with Irene again in the pool, splash in the hot water. Water a little cool for the night, and it was much nicer. And yesterday felt boiled crawfish.
Vladimir and his partner built the second – a small, deep pool. Cooked just the grid for concreting the bottom of the pool.
He threw his cloak and walked in the rain along the shore. I found a place right out of the cracks hot water flowing into the river. Slightly higher on the shore – the old well, it is installed subsurface pump, which pumps hot water through the pipes in the houses and in the pool. In winter, the same hot water is used for heating the houses – they are conventional batteries installed.
As Vladimir in winter the whole coast and the river does not freeze, the water level is low and you can swim right on the beach among the rocks in a natural bath. In winter, when the winter roads open, the ice people coming even from Olekminsk. Winter road and rolled the whole winter here there is a road. That winter, heavy equipment for the construction of the runway landing strip on it and threw.
And in the summer, when the water is not too falls message motorboat or boat. That plane will be more. Now this place is redeemed president some large Moscow company and settles here.
Here are this year’s runway did, and ended up backfilling of alignment – left cover bed. The hangar was built there. Technique and goryuchku delivered by winter road or on a barge on the big water. The water is very low and there was no rain for a long time. Today, this is the first rain.
At about 12 slightly brightened, it appeared window without rain. They began to gather.
Marina again fed us, baked pastries on the road. We had lunch, said goodbye to the hospitable hosts. Photo goodbye. Thanks for the hospitality!
At 14 o’clock came, rain began to drizzle. All in white mist. In hot weather warmed up the mountain, and now cool, give off heat. Vladimir said that in the hollow still a lot of snow and a rain dramatically enhances its Taen, the water should rise.
Passed the River Tungurcha BOP. Half an hour later began a long and angry Mahochen threshold.
On the map O51-20 designated as roll Mahochen. There were, hugging the left bank of the spit at the edge of the large trees. Then there were a few rapids and Shiver. Rain did not stop, keeps us wet. The fog, the visibility of small – meter 300. Next is a white wall and can not see anything. We start to get wet and freeze. Look out for the hut on the right bank before r.Chenche – not seen.
A little further saw the house on the left bank – did not like. Windows shattered, draft walks, muddy bear harm done. Come on – to the next hut on the map. Something and its present.
Rain go up to 19 hours, then stopped, stood a little cloudy. We found a place where you can settle down and become the parking lot. After a day of rain all wet – even inside. They drank first thing in 5 drops. We put up a tent. He built a fire. Dinner.
Nearby flows a stream of cold water. He took leave and went spinning – empty. Happy, too, tried to fish. Even pecked and frustrated three times. No luck today.
Replaced trolling – still do not bite.
Settled at 21-30.
Parking: N 57°34,956 ‘E 121°40,532’ H 266 m, S 1477. Km.
Passed the for the day – 43 km.
More detailed photos №6 here
What to do, when to do anything you can not?
Or emergency situations, where we are in a heap of their own foolishness.
Thursday, July 28, 46 day of the journey
Map О51-20
At night and in the morning the rain. At night someone rattling stones nearby footsteps. While unfastened the tent before climbed – have silence, and no one in sight.
8-30. A little rain verse. They got out, made a fire, cooked coffee. Cheer up a bit.
Again the rain, we had to pull the film over the fire, and already so prepare breakfast.
Then he had breakfast and got into the tent – well, then soak in vain. Engaged is on writing diaries.
11-07. Seems verse rain – turn off the camp. Yesterday, the water has fallen by more than a meter, but now have started to rise.
Passed the Chokchoy roll top, followed by the river. We stopped to leave the spoon. Caught 2 large Lenca, one escaped. The next river Lower Chokchoy pecked healthy flax, kilograms 3. Called Irene to help pull. And for good reason. Pulled up his already almost to the shore, to the grass. And then he breaks down and freezes in fear close to the shore on a small spot. Well, Irina did not lose – rushed at him and put her hand to the grass, then he grabbed the gills and thrown out on the shore, away from the water.
Hooray! Today we have a good catch, is considered the first normal on Olekma. A photo. Irina brings fish bag with two smaller Lenk, pushes back our handsome. Then I notice the corner of his eye that carries the kayak over from the shore. I am giving up spinning on the grass and ran to the canoe, catch and pull it to the shore on the rocks. I am angry at Irina – tied again!
Critic Irina. Self spinning reels off, I get out of the line of grass. We sat down and push off. And somehow all on happiness or anger, forget about a bag of fish prey. He remains on the rocks on the shore. Irina felt that I take the bag to him, and I thought that she had stuffed in his kayak. Two mug …
Passed the rifts Chokchai and Connery. When our water, they are almost invisible – just chute.
The time to 14 hours, it’s time to get to the snack. Sticks to PB after passing the cliffs – here the shore shallow, and you can get to the beach and have the opportunity to come to the forest for firewood dry. Rain is verse. Unloaded the rocks bag with dishes and snack, cover with bowlers. Next put the oars, threw them a life jacket.
And now it turns out that there is no fish bag … Damn! Forgot … this production! I had hoped to Irina, she thought, I pushed the fish to his feet. And I did not check before going ashore. I try to always check the same and no one else hope.
– Well, let’s go on the beach and take away, – says Irina – here an hour has passed.
– Yes, still to catch …
Irina persistently persuades. And my brain completely disconnected – well, you look at a map, remember that in the shallows speed up to 15 km/h. Well eclipse found. Listen to a woman and do the opposite. Somehow I agree …
Pulled kayak half body on the rocks, drove the mooring wire end with a pin under the stones. He pulled still – are securely held.
Error №1
– Do not throw a kayak on the river, and if the waste is pulled ashore and tie behind the thickest tree!
– Do not leave things on the oars and the beach! Knock down all the kayak and tie!
And we were on the rocks oars, pots, a bag with dishes and food, as well as a life jacket (a lifejacket Irina gave the seat to the canoe).
– Come on, – says Irina – will be back soon.
Irina sneakers, I was fishing boots and a suit. I took a GPS and a camera. It marks a point on the navigator. The captured still my cape and Irinin rain jacket in case of rain.
Come on. The water still had a little rock and passed the bottom of the water’s edge. We walked along the water on the right bank – the rocks, the bushes, somewhere upstairs into the forest and walked along the game trail that always goes along the river. We stumbled on the ruined hut, and next to it a huge trap.
Near the river Yaelah unturned left bundle of coats and jackets. Top still crushed stone. Well, to pick up on the way back …
Error №2
– Do not leave things in the forest, whether that can happen a little …
– And if you leave, then tie on a tree taller.
Before the river Nizhny Chokchai ran along the coast in 4 hours, it was 15 km.
And you do not know the place … It seems similar, but the water something much. And the bag with the fish present. They began to doubt, can we forget at the next river – Upper Chokchoy. Before him, only 1.5 km away. Let’s go already there, if it came. We got over 0.5 hours. Yes, this is the place where the first two lenkov caught. But a lot of water !!!
To me sneaking a quiet panic. Rapidly, almost running, we go back. The water comes right before our eyes. All the time Customized Irene, but in sneakers on the rocks not much overclocking. And throw it is also not desirable. I ask, trying to persuade hurry. Ran to the river, where they left coats – they are not recessed, the stones covered with water. Carried already muddy water, with debris. Will be dark soon, time is about 20 hours. And to go further 4 hours at least. And then I realize the picture of the whole situation. I understand that we’re in trouble great! And, perhaps even very large – up to the loss of all equipment.
And all the water comes and floods the shore.
It begins to darken. Irina has been going slowly, does not have time for me, we have all the time it expected. Trying to beg, that was faster – simply can not. Something must be addressed. We agree that I will run run to the kayak, and it slowly, 2 hours, crawls. To gather strength and running.
Water has already approached the bushes and flooded coastal strip. We have to fight through the bushes and coastal cliffs. Very dark, but I have run out of strength, start times fall. And then there was rain and went. As he was not in time … The stones were slippery, but only a cotton suit me.
In some places already at the shore does not pass, we have to look round riding, on the rocks.
It was dark. Wade to touch the rocks, guided by the sound of water, try not to deviate far from the shore. Periodically turn navigator – to paddle for about 2 km.
And then I stumble upon a rock. One attempt, second, third. I picked up a long stick and I measure the depth of the rock – more than two meters. All! Impassable place. Today, not pass, a steep rock, I’m on it just slides off.
And then there was the rain did not stop. Wet to the skin and further more. From boots sparkled with water several times.
He sat down and thought. I turn on the Navigator – 0-58 time to paddle another 2 km. Sucks. It is necessary to go back and look for Irina. He remembered that she had weak eyesight, glasses with a big net, and in the evening she almost can not see anything. Not to mention the dark. I went up and I fight back. But now with the wild cries – not to the care already.
Finally, after half an hour he heard an answering cry, Irina speaks. I find it near the water. Climbing on some rocks and can not get out. Stick in hand. All wet. It turns out that she fell off a cliff, fell into the water gurgled from his head, but managed to somehow get out. He said that go bad – a sore right knee. What’s with the leg – it is not recognized, but very lame. We are trying to somehow touch to go to the level ground. Poor – very dark, you can not see what is being done in a couple of meters. But Irina did not see anything – lead her by the hand. The rain stopped. Before the destruction of huts, which have seen the day, today is clearly not get. But to get on a relatively flat area, and there is something out. Stumbles upon a slab cornice hanging over the rocky slope, width of about one meter.
But there it is possible to get, and once out of the rain. There is more or less dry. I find a few sticks, break them, do something like litter on which to sit. It’s cold and wet. Palpable and possibly look around the knee Irina. Swelling will be a big bruise, but there is no obvious fracture. I propose to tear my shirt into strips and wrap tightly. But Irina categorically refuses, on me and so little clothing. Undressing and twisted clothes, poured water from his boots. At least Irene fleece jacket and tarpaulin, and I’m only a thin shirt with short sleeves and cotton clothes. Starts to hurt his feet and whipped by rubbing knees and folds of wet clothes.
Presses, trying to keep warm – it turns bad. We begin to negotiate the situation – everyone feels guilty. But quietly, without reproach and without charges. Both understand that seriously blundered by his own stupidity. And we must look for a way out of this trouble. The closest accommodation to people – is 60 km upstream Olekma to the hot springs, where we camped.
A few kilometers above us there are two ruined huts (we saw them during the day) – where you can escape somehow from the rain and sleep. More needs to be a hut on the banks of our rivers have Cenci – talked about it to Vladimir.
We begin to freeze, because sitting still. And outside the rain – do not jump. So we must do something. Pick Pocket – Irina camera, a folding knife, caramels and 2 poludohly gas lighter.
I have a navigator on the neck, in pockets find a little piece of candle. We are trying to strike sharply cigarette lighter – the spark is there, but does not ignite. Offer does not strike sharply Irina nothing, but from the beginning to dry under the arm. Irina little land me – so dry lighter trust it. I got out to the nearest birch and with a knife kicked patches of birch bark. Wet, but nothing – lights. I rummage under the eaves, slab under all the dry gap and mining a few dry leaves, sticks, moss, any dry garbage.
After a while, unable to start the lighter and light a candle stub. And only with the help kindle a tiny campfire. First, at the top of the cracks under the stove – there is no wind blowing. And then grabbed it on a flat stone and gently moved down between us. Bloat, enclose already wet branches – smoke, but they flare up. Substituting in turn the different pieces of the body, and once warmed. Have fun. Slightly warming. The rain stopped. After 5 hours of beginning to turn gray, visibility appeared.
Coordinates kayak: N 57°44,473′ E 121°44,279′ H 240 m, S 1495. Km.
Прошли за день по воде – 18 км. Ну а пешком, по собственной глупости – больше 30 км.
Friday, July 29, 47 day of the journey
Our night shelter
Map О51-20
5-30. I decide to make another attempt to break through to a kayak, or at least make sure it’s not there. Water arrived at 3 meters, along the water does not pass. Irina is sitting under the eaves at the fire and waiting for me. Rain drizzles, though a little verse. Wade through the bushes, kurumniku, on the rocks. Eliminated the rock, it is wet and slippery from the rain. I’m trying to go down in different places – impassable. At the bottom of the water depth, at this point just turn the whole mass of water on the rock piles. You can undress and swim jerk … well … and back as? Upstream not swim out – bears much. And in Boots Bog poplyvёsh not, and there is still stomping through the taiga. There are only 2 km barefoot and back? If the canoe has drifted?
Scrolls different options – is no solution. I decide to take up as much as possible along the cliffs. Maybe you can get around on top? The narrow game trail goes up. I fight up – where on all fours, where the knees. Rests in a narrow place, the path goes left to vershinku, but cleft width of half a meter and narrow karnizik. It is evident that the beasts, or whoever filled the trail, this spot simply jump. But I’m not a mountain goat. I try on and either way – scary. And the rocks are slippery from the rain. And down the thunder do not want to – there still waiting for Irina. I go back down a bit, trying to go to the right. I stumble upon a very steep rock wall – this way there is even a trace of the animals. Impassable place. Pereobutsya sat down and poured water from his boots. On the feet is added more scratches and worn out skin. But now, not before. The head bad thoughts climb.
What is called – sailed. Increasingly convinced that because of his own stupidity, we lost everything – equipment, boat documents, money, food. Well, that Irina lives in Vladimir, it is easier. And I – so do other State. And where he was without papers and without money – in Yakutia, where the attitude to the Russian not very friendly (no offense to simple Yakuts, I could be wrong). Similarly, for a spy and will be put in jail for a couple of months for identification (maybe I’m kidding – did not manage to try).
Error №3
– Well if departing from the kayak, then hang on ksivnik neck with documents and money.
– Take lёgonky backpack with the most essential in the forest:
matches, lighters, a map, a compass, an ax, a knife, a pot, a minimum of food,
what a raincoat, or at least a piece polyethylene film.
The nearest people 60 km, it is necessary to return to the Hot Spring. And with the right, without falling into a panic, and as long as there is power, and we can go. It is not known how much the rains will come.
Returning to Irina, I explain the situation. It accepts all in silence, without any objection.
Until we solve to get to the ruined hut, where they saw a big trap. Her knees swollen and badly hurt. I break out a stick to build, and start to get out of this steep, steep cliffs. 1 hour overpowered just 1 km away. Irina legs almost can not attack. I palpate the knee – a cup is not broken, stir. Fracture explicitly do not feel. Apparently strong sprain near the knee joint. Bruising and swelling increase.
Choose from the rocks more or less flat area. It was easier to go. But the rain still does not stop.
In turn, 2 km to the cliff overlooking the river behind a rock, downstream.
I notice that there is water on something loose. But it is not confident to the point of perception. And if you get around the cliff top, the ridge, to get between the rocks, it is possible to get to the other side, behind the rock. From far away it all seems easily passable. We decided that Irina slowly stomping to the cabin, and there waiting for me. Or somewhere close to dissolve a fire, if he can not go. I try the third attempt to get to the kayak.
Rain a little verse, but still cloudy.
Go back and already from our night shelter decide to take immediately higher. Passed 3 kurumnika, huge stones, sometimes covered with moss, between thickets deciduous young forest. All the water from the leaves to me by the collar. I climbed pretty high, and as it turned out in vain. I ran into the rock, which could circumvent the bottom. I not got there.
I descend rapidly losing, so painstakingly typed, height. I went down almost to the water and walk around the bottom of the steep bank. Then again, I fight up kurumniku. It began to rain, slippery. I climb over kurumnik to large larch. Some trails go up steeply. Whether the bears, or wapiti go here. Rises higher, the rain feet slip on the mat and stones. At times I had to crawl on his knees, clinging to the soil and roots.
I climbed up on the rock. I turn on the Navigator.
N 57° 43,827′ E 121° 44,713′ H 407 m
Before kayaks are 2 km away. I now just above the place where it is not able to pass under the rock.
But it opens the way down. Above I see the remnant of some stone images. The rain subsides. Raspadok between rocks. Down goes the scree-kurumnik Kamenyuki of the huge, overgrown with bright green moss cushion. I walk carefully, because the foot can fall into the gap, which is not visible beneath the moss.
Rocks the size of a tent. Several times fell, sat down to rest, took off his boots and pants. Unscrew them and foot wraps. On the feet it is better not to watch. Abrasions, bruising under the skin of the knees have wiped up the living flesh. Wow aches. But now is not to sores. Near noticed raspberry bushes, took a handful of red berries and sweet into his mouth.
Kurumnik sharply breaks down and ends. Further large and ancient larch.
Sliding down on the ass and see fresh bear tracks. Close under the roots of a large larch I see a hole in the den. But the entrance is not very wide – a bear, you see, small size. But anyway, I’m such a meeting is not needed. Quickly leaving down.
50-100 meters down – and another den under the big stones. Well, this is already a lot more. Many traces. Quickly clean up with this place. For myself, I decide that if I have to go back, neither in the life of this road will not go. It is better to go around the circle. Quickly roll down. Very steep descent, 60 degrees, well that down. How then will climb back? Leg clings to the root, tumbling through the head, but fails to catch the hand of a young tree and stay. I hang uncomfortable on the slope of the head down, feet somewhere above. Twisting the feet down. I opt out of the bushes. Smashed face, nose, bruised hip cool.
But we can already see the river. Slowly descend. Navigator shows that up to another 1.5 km kayak. But I walked around the rock, then you can walk along the shore. Many bush willow, but this is small in comparison with what has already passed. I wade through them. Rain died down, but I have enough water that remains on the leaves.
Finally for the next turn I see a kayak – swaying on a string in the strong current. As I was delighted !!! How many kind words to think about our canoe named “Ryska” … Well, words do not know how to tell …
Berthing end straight down beneath the sea, but still keeps. For him, still caught spinning lure and also holds. At the time I had – as well, which is not vomited pin of the stones!
The entire coast of the bushes filled – by rushing muddy water with debris. Up to 10 meters kayaks.
Undress, take zherdinu two meters and try to get to the kayak. The water is cold. I am leaning on a stick, for a strong, trying to carry. I went to the waist, chest – it’s hard to resist.
I rest with a stick, but my blows. Returning to the shore, I go upstream and swim to the canoe. I suffice near the nose of the harness. Well, now I only by kayak teeth to tear off! Trying to pull the mooring end – can not be. Well, I jammed it between the stones. And moreover, once on the machine, even unconsciously. Dive holding the rope. Hand rid pin from under the stones. And comes up with all the dope dragging kayak to shore.
Selected, dragged “Rysku” to the left clothes, pulled ashore, tied to a log that lay on the beach. In my heart I feel better – you can tell, we are saved and we were lucky. Praise guardian angel! They poked us a good nose – in the forest can not relax.
Twisting the clothes, foot wraps – dress. Change into dry does not make sense – to me else would need to somehow get to Irene, and this 5-6 km against the rapid current (eye velocity is now 10-15 km/h). Counts loss. Gone 2 paddles, life vest, a bag with all the utensils and food, mosquito nets and Coy – what products. That is all that was left on the shore on the rocks. On the cover was a kayak with a frying pan, ax, chain saw and large knife. There is a board on which the cleaned fish and where I was sitting when very ill back. We’ll have to sacrifice it, and make paddle boards. I ran down to the shore to the trees and ran through the forest. She could not be found in this place raw, thin and strong dry wood. We had to cut a thin birch. I am returning to the canoe and start a fast pace to do the paddle.
14-20. I understand that I have little time, and before nightfall we must also get to Irene.
Sawn board into 2 parts, pull out of the repair kit a few nails and screws. I nailed to a birch stick blade. It has turned primitive crooked paddle. And how heavy the – board lying in the rain, and engorged with water, and birch stick too wet and heavy. And I have yet to row it is necessary, not only to raise.
I am uploading all in a kayak and spend the sea trials of a new paddle. Where there! It carries a sliver, against the flow really can not go. Quickly rake up the coast. Completely unload the kayak, I carry higher Hermetic bags, put in a pile. The kayak has left only a rope, twine to go on shore. Next to a bunch of stuff I stick a stick and attached to her yellow p / e package. This flag I observe from afar.
Even on an empty kayak turn to the left bank of the river – it is more shallow and near him for not so strong. It demolished me far away, but here you can walk along the shore and pull a kayak twine. What I try and do. It turns out badly – kayak light and her nails all the time by the wind to the shore. One terribly inconvenient – there is nobody to push off from the bushes and stones. A little tough, and then at the bow and stern put on healthy cobbles. It went more fun. But the forces already at the limit. Sore bruised body and blood in the legs worn … But we must go.
Eliminated in the rotation before a roll. Further on this side the bushes and up roll. It’s not to go through. I picked up the paddle and send it back to the right bank. Very much it demolished, but still managed to hit the beach before the rocks. Another 2 km combating river, and, for the most part, with a. Ida already at the limit. At last I see the smoke rolling fire and Irina.
But the cry is not responding, and my way is not looking. We still have to get closer. I pull out the kayak and I fall on the rocks near the bushes on a piece of sand, ten minutes to rest up. Then on the shore of delirium Irina, I was a little sways from side to side. Finally, she notices me and hobbling toward me. I sit down on a rock and waiting. Physical force is already zero. Irina lame came, she came across in front of rolling fin, made a fire, dry clothes and even a little nap in the warm near the fire. A little wet to dry the camera (it yesterday gurgled along with him, but I was not recognized).
I notice that the fire is still smokes – go up to him and threw sand. Do not leave a fire burning in the forest, though here the bushes and all wet. We reach a kayak, give a homemade paddle Irina, push off. Irina rows along the right bank, so as not to slip past my flag. I allow myself to relax a bit and starts pounding me trembling. It sucks, it is necessary quickly to the left on the shore of things, not enough even sick. I take Irina’s camera and took a few pictures of the right bank, where we spent the night, and rocks that blocked the way to the kayak. Finally my yellow flag appeared. Moors. First change into dry. Pour 3 sips of vodka. Biting bread with lard. I stopped shaking, the body begins to flood the heat. Vain …
I pull more and fleece suit themselves, slowly warming. Irina also departs.
Looked Beach – wet, bumps, no place for the tent. Georgia – urgently needs to find a parking space and put up a tent. Push off, Irina rows, and I peered into the bushes right bank – it may be able to notice that some of the things uplyvshih. And no wonder – in a small catch notice something blue. Match closer – paddle! Hooray! Already good. After 2 km there is a sand bar on the left bank, unloaded, put up tents, take out the kayak higher. Irina takes off his pants – is unbearable to endure the pain of abrasions. And then all the wounds stuffed a bunch of gnats and bites into fresh meat.
To drive her into the tent. At dinner, cooking no strength – physically and so fall to the ground. On the right bank Olekma wandering bear a strange shape. On my cries are not paying attention. Well, let him walk – he lives here. I take out the first aid kit and climb into the tent. We start treating wounds. And for me and Irina wiped off the skin on the legs and behind the knees to the meat. Irina is another problem – the midges bit into the wounds so deep that each black dot have to rip out fingernails. Obscure “rescuers” and seal the plaster. Large wounds streptotsidom sleep. Irina knee bandage elastic bandage.
But it is the little things – heal. The main saving equipment and can continue the route. And that is great. Climb in sleeping bags and immediately turns off.
Parking: N 57° 45,648′ E 121° 44,014′
More detailed photos №6 here
Saturday, July 30, 48 day of the journey
Map О51-20, О51-14
Morning, everybody hurts. Irina knee wrapped with an elastic bandage – well, that was in the medicine cabinet. Because we get out of the tent on all fours. But slowly we begin to walk.
I breed fire. Houseware virtually none. In the presence of 1 cup, 2 teaspoons, a knife and a frying pan – well, such as a small pan. Oatmeal cook in a frying pan. Nothing – unscrew. Can someone meet – will have to ask for the dishes. Good people help out, not without it. Here paddle worse. It is urgent to do the latter, and for this we need to find somewhere a piece of sheet metal – even the old bucket.
We had breakfast oatmeal, then boiled tea in a pan. I begin to slowly gather. I go like anything. Feet badly hurt, the most unpleasant that folds under the knees. Irina also moves with difficulty. But somehow we cope, turn and leave the camp.
On the banks of the cliff. We stop near the rivers and Belyaev Lyty – manage to catch 2 large Lenk, then another. One 3.100 (on the cordon and then weighed). Water night fell a little, but in the morning began to arrive again. Bears at a speed of 10-12 km/h (according to the navigator).
By the afternoon were former weather station Enyuk (right falls r.Enyuk). All abandoned, in the house on one side of the roof has collapsed. And before that it was a strong economy. Good healthy home, in the yard of a summer kitchen, cellar and other outbuildings. And the place is wonderful.
We try to find something of the dishes and the material for the paddle. I find the house on a piece of duralumin boats and small aluminum bowl. But it gained paint. Nothing – otmoyu. Bowler or some pots can not be found. On the banks do snack – cook oatmeal in the frying pan. I’m trying to pull out the paint in a bowl – but it lends itself with difficulty.
At 16 o’clock we go on. At about 20 we reach the beginning of the reserve Olekminsk(http://oopt.info/olekma/index.html), river and cordon Tas-Heiko. (Карта О51-14)
On the banks meet the state inspector Alexander Sergeyevich Gonarovskogo.
Hello, it seems. He invites us to his hut, treats the tea, and then dinner. Tells about herself and how, in what mess hit by his own stupidity.
On the cordon is now full of people. He arrived on a boat with an air bag the director of the reserve – Edward M. Gabyshev with scientists, even his wife, Lyudmila, and two children. And Alexander, frankly, not up to us and our problems. But he promises to help than he can. His wife, Lyubov Stepanovna, now out, should come in a few days. It is one on the farm.
Soon there and the other guests. Scientists from the University of Irkutsk Light and Kostya, director of the reserve with his wife Lyudmila and 2 children. I bring our lenkov at the common table.
Women are beginning to fry fish. And from the great Edward M. Lenca makes some exotic dish – says it will land, they have the whole package all condiments and supplies for this. Promises that will be ready in the morning.
Once again, we talk about their “adventures”, and in general about the route and other joint travels.
Aleksandr Sergeevich leaves us to spend the night – suits in the bath, because all the other rooms are occupied by guests. It promises to help with equipment. Finds us duralumin paddle from “Taimen” – before he had a kayak and he went to her, but then the skin has come into disrepair, there were only bones. Bring a saucepan, a camp kettle, mug for the Irene, two tablespoons. Extracts from the bag of sugar for all this dishes – we are your bag and the bag with dishes and food drowned.
Then I spent briefing and issued a pass to pass through the reserve for 3 days.
Dinner and we went to the bath. They settled on the floor – mats spread out sleeping bags and dumped. They began to lick their wounds. We process all the sores, taped, bandaged. Then cut down the engine, the lights went out, and I just felt a mite. I had to get flashlights and twisting its thread in the dark.
We fall asleep quickly. At night, it was painful to turn – groaned in turn.
Coordinates cordon: N 58°10,487’E 121°36,877′ H 203 m, S 1560 Km.
Two days passed 65 km.
Sunday, July 31, 49 day of the journey
Map О51-14, О51-8
8 am, the engine worked, and we woke up from the noise. Sasha has hosted in the kitchen.
We drank tea and talked with the owner. He complained about the tourists who often fed him and con. And then they also have to help out. Yet Olekma – treacherous river. Some ask – do not fish in the reserve on the right bank, so there is – just go away, and the network is stretched, and then the bottom inspection. And once the dog was stolen, we want to eat. Good on motorboat caught up and rescued. Steal often – this is a nylon rope dragged, tied the boat. Anyway there are a lot to any “tourist” had seen enough.
I woke up the rest of the people. Had breakfast, we said goodbye – Alexander Sergeyevich thanked for their hospitality and went on. Water lot, and it seems it is still a big profit. Come quickly. We need to find a place for relaxing during the day. And the weather is nice. And here again drizzling rain, the clouds sat on the mountain peaks not seen much cloudy.
Again soaked in the rain. Occasionally there are gaps, trying to take pictures.
Parking on the left bank there is practically no – cliffs, steep coast. And on the right do not want to stop – also promised not to fail.
In the parking lot it was too late, for about 20 hours. somewhere after the creek Kurung. All was not a suitable place – the rock. the steep banks, not out. And this place is not so. Steep coast, a little sand behind the rocks. I dug a ditch, lined pad 1×2 meters. He put a couple of brevnyshek from the river and fortified with stakes – but in order not to sink into the water at night. “Hanger” tent. Nothing – we will lie. Paddle dug and leveled a little space for the fire, and of the trail to the fire.
Dinner and sleep.
Parking Coordinates: N 58 ° 52,691 ‘E 121 ° 34,892’ H 175 m, S 1647 Km.
The day passed 87 km.
Monday, August 1, 50 day’s journey
Map О51-8
In the morning from 6 to 8 hours, and knocks on the tent a good rain, does not get out of the tent.
Finally fell silent. Welded some coffee – thanks to women from the cordon, gave their reserves. They are still going to leave today in Olekminsk. Then we do breakfast. I’m a little pissed blog while Irina was busy at the fire. Water per night rose by 1 m. Turbid, carries a lot of debris, branches and logs. Had breakfast, quickly rolled up and pushed off.
The place is beautiful – lots of cliffs, pillars, steep banks. In r.Krestyah mouth at the right bank of the wooden cross standing on a rock. Underneath the eaves and under the eaves of the right upright on a flat stone made out of ancient paintings of the artist, painted dark red. It is best seen deer figure, men still make out shapes.
But after the rain all the waters streaked, wet – hard to see. Many take pictures.
By the afternoon we reached the weather station Dikimdya. It hosted Anatoliy Vladimirovich Leysman with his wife Nina. We met Nina, sat at the table, fed and watered tea. I was treated to fresh cucumbers and tomatoes, which are grown in the greenhouse itself. Nina said that a few days ago went on an inflatable canoe father and son of Peter.
Approached Anatoliy Vladimirovich – I asked him for a piece of steel wire and suspension made for our pans and a couple of hooks. Share with them the first aid kit – pills on the pressure and plaster. Nina gave us 4 cans of condensed milk and a few large blocks of dry potatoes. It was given to them last time rations. Nina, thanks for treats and gifts! We sat with them until 17 o’clock.
Then he went on. Today try to reach the end of the reserve, to cordon Bederdyah.
Before he left 21 km. Again it began to rain. Tried to fish in streams from the left side – a lot of garbage, the water is cloudy, I caught nothing.
By 19 o’clock we approached the cordon Bederdyah. At this time there were Vera Ivanovna and son Sasha Dergunov. We gave them permission to pass the reserve and were asked to spend the night.
Vera Ivanovna heated the bath for us, fed dinner. After long conversations, television. Hostess has conceded us his room to heat the stove. In the bath hung out to dry all the wet clothes. We sat talking for up to 23 hours.
Cordon Bederdyah: N 59 ° 11,648 ‘E 121 ° 45,364’ S 1693 km.
The day was 46 km.
More detailed photos №6 here
Tuesday, August 2, 51 day’s journey
Map О51-8
8 a.m. Vera Ivanovna fed from a pile of home fried eggs, then drank tea.
I once again ran to the beach to kayak. Water arrives by 1 m. According to the observations was the water in the summer just 2.30, and now has risen by about 8 meters. Sasha started the engine and turned on the transmitting-receiving dish and a computer. I immediately put my battery on charge. Sasha Satellite Internet for 8000 rubles / month. I used to be a package for 5000 rubles., But a very slow speed. First, some sat Irina, and then I was asked to go on the Internet. Released in “ICQ” and sent to all the same message. On“Wanderer” marked on the forum in the section “News from the route” (тема –
“Vitim, Olekma”). Then he sat down to his diary writings, a little late with the records in the last days, you have to adjust. I spent almost 13 hours.
Then Vera Ivanovna has called fried potatoes with fresh homemade tomato.
Not eaten, I remembered the batteries, and ran to the Sasha. It turned out that under his bed is defective LCD Monitor – garbage on the screen. They pulled out, find tools and dismantled. At first I thought it was dried up electrolytic capacitors in the power supply, but after disassembly and inspection it turned out that capacitors are not inflated, everything is normal. I shuddered cables in connectors – and earned the monitor. Well I earned and well. Twist back. Connected to a computer two monitors at once – good two-headed graphics card. Sasha showed how to work with two screens at once.
He returned to the women in the kitchen. They are all the time, crackled, like magpies – missed communication. Ate the potatoes in a pan. Irina started to adjust – it’s time to get ready.
At 14-20, said goodbye to the owners of the cordon –thank you so much for your hospitality!
Water in the river are many, and even for the night added. It carries a lot of garbage, a lot of logs.
The speed of 10-12 km/h. The water is cloudy, the mouth of streams and rivers filled up the bushes and densely packed with logs and debris. Fishing is not obtained. They began to meet on the banks of the hut. One closer to the cordon, was normal. Next to building a new bath – frame and roof, but the door has not even propylene. From cutting boards sawed off a piece of 70 cm for Seats in the kayak. Lodge on the deck when the back starts to hurt, and sit higher.
Further huts were shut. Strange – in the forest and on the locks. Well, like it here. Although a number near the firewood ax lies. That’s when we were in Karelia, the local fishermen say that the hut close impossible, and that may burn. You never know who and what kind of situation will come to the hut.
After the river has become a broad cordon, map 400m, and now, at high water, and then more.
On the banks began to appear more and more pine forests. Sometimes I see and trees. He went out, wandered into a place on the mushrooms – do not have anything yet, too early. Although the rains have already gone. The day was sunny today +30 … + 35 ° C.
Later in the afternoon met on the left bank of the old man – Reindeer Herder, young boy with him. Tent canvas, it is clear that too damp. Things are dried on the branches.
The old man says they alfiny instead Yakut (although I have a nationality and do not know). Deer graze here for yourself. We chatted and walked on.
We met another motorboat with fishermen – Yakuts. They questioned us for about 20 minutes, as we are on such a small boat and went Olekma, but also going to Lena.
Along the way came into d.Grishko (non-residential). There are 2 houses, lives Lyudmila nephews. A former teacher from Yakutsk. We bought her a jar of milk and sour cream.
After 20 hours, we began to look for a parking lot, and with them there napryazhenka, especially at high water, as we have. We found at last something. Unload. In the west, it seemed to cloud and began to rumble. But we managed to do everything quickly, and put up a tent and cook dinner.
it began to rain, when it subsided.
Parking: N 59°13,250 ‘E 121°04,522’ H 153 m, S 1743 Km.
The day was 50 km.
Wednesday, August 3, 52 day journey. Day rest
Map О51-8
8 in the morning, cloudy and cloud close. We make coffee. Water is even more arrived, it carries a lot of debris and trees. Let’s try to make today a day of rest, although the weather brings. Working set of pants and shirts had already begun whiff – urgently needs to be washed. Last vacation day was July 24, it’s been 9 days, and then there was rain and solid – do not dry properly.
Last night, before going to bed, licking their wounds. 2 pcs. on my feet almost zadzhili and dried. 3 pcs. under the knees on the sides and one side – wet and began to fester.
He took off all the plaster stickers, promotional peroxide, crushed pills in a spoon and densely streptotsida all asleep. Top bandaged bandage and so lay down – at night trying not to turn, so the bandages are not peeled. By morning streptocid prisoh and formed a crust on the wound. In the morning the bandages had to be removed. Irina severe swelling right knee, started to descend. Elastic bandage bandage and swallows some pills painkillers.
Yesterday’s weather station Nina gave a little ointment in a tube – “concoctions” of a series of 911 for the night, too, smeared – he says that the pain somewhat let go, you can have a little step on the right foot. Bruising and swelling still hold – and it looks like this for a long time. On the morning of tightly bandaged knee and moves too slowly. In general, all this stuff – slowly comes to life, not gone the route, everything would be fine.
it began to rain – drizzle tedious. Breakfast is ready in the rain. Periodically subsides and begins again. But things still to do. In the next window washing staged – perestirali only the most necessary. Then things dried by the fire. Heavy rain driven into the tent. I had to take with them, and the dough, which is set around the campfire Irina approached.
Half an hour later all was quiet. By 16 o’clock the clouds were gone. Fry pancakes, they had lunch with condensed milk and tea.
We decided that the condensed milk in a campaign – the best cure for all ills.
Then the weather really was adjusted – it seemed the sun, blue sky. It was sunny and hot. Urgent stretched rope and hung to dry everything. We deal with all sorts of economic affairs. Podremontirovat solar battery. Water comes already and went to the fire itself. The river carries a lot of logs.
The good weather held up to 20 hours. In 20-20 blew out a sharp, gusty wind – until the squall. Urgent pushed all odezhku to the tent – and it is almost dry. The wind began to bend and press down the tent – it was necessary to press down on the edges of the stones and hermetic bags. Imported cloud. At first it seemed very bright rainbow, and then vdaril short downpour. Outlasted in a tent, then we got out, supper – and sleep. Day rest is more or less success. The main thing that is physically a little rest and at the same time have altered a bunch of necessary things.
Thursday, August 4, 53 day’s journey
Map О51-8,О51-2
8 in the morning, at night it was + 10 ° C, but now + 17 ° C. Fog over the river. Today, less garbage in the river and the water a little sleep. Breakfast, packed up and left at 10 o’clock. The river is wide, and more than 400 meters. They tried to approach the rivers to fish – to no avail, all scored debris and water flooded coastal bushes. Do not leave the baubles. On the track, too, do not bite. Soon, the village has to seem Kudu-Kyuёl.
After the island-Ary Matar on the right bank met Yakut reindeer herders. Nicholas from Yakutsk to these places already the 5th year of reindeer herding. Says Olekma – the only place where there are no mosquitoes. And them there really is almost there. But Lena mosquitoes will eat us.
We went to the village of Kudu-Kyuёl. Irina ran to the village, I’m stuck on the shore in a kayak. Soon bottom boat approached the director of the reserve Olekminsk – driven by the cordon Tas-Heiko Love Stepanovna, wife of Alexander Gonarovskogo. Few talked. They then planned stop – refuel with gasoline and go further. Brought from the village of gasoline in cans, filled and moved on. I was alone on the beach, I wandered around a little – the rain, we had to hide under a tree on the beach. He limped Irina – nothing bought. The village, though large, under 1,000 residents, but there is no pharmacy, shop there, but inferior. Wait until the rain and went on.
Near lake Ebe-Kuel (on the map marked with the barn – but it has not, the ruins and the hay next) scored liter jar of redcurrant.
19-30. We started to look for a parking lot, we reached r.Tigan and disembarked on the right bank of the mouth of a little further. A cloud on the approach and rumbles. Quickly put the tent and threw into things.
Wait a little rain – went to the left. Choose from the tent, made a fire, began to prepare dinner. Took 5 drops on each tooth.
After 21 hours went by kayak out into the river Tegan, where there is no debris and logs, and put the net. And before that, I did the bait and tried to catch the bait – not even a bite. Water is cloudy and a lot of garbage.
Parking: N 59 ° 31,698 ‘E 121 ° 24,292’ H 150 m, S 1797 Km.
The day passed 54 km.
Friday, August 5, 54 day’s journey
Map О51-2
8 am, the fog over the whole of the river, opposite shore is not visible. We drank some coffee and I went to take a net – Irina left the tent. Far as we departed yesterday from the camp …
I sailed to the grid – checked and pulled. And here is empty – fish went to the side of the river to clean water, do not like it this slime.
He returned to the camp – Irina already cooked milk rice porridge. We had breakfast. To tea was poured on a bowl of red currants and sugar. The fog slowly dissipates.
10-53, the temperature of + 24 ° C, in the morning it was + 20 ° C. I begin to fold the camp.
11-30. They went out, went to the river is not interesting – wide and 400-500 meters. Lateral inflows clogged debris. Although the water bed and slept for about 1 m, but still flooded coastal bushes. Fish is not caught. The current fast – going at a speed of 10-12 km/h. Strongly do not strain – Mach oars pleasure.
At about 14 met the right beoegu camp of reindeer herders. We went to talk to. Irina photographed a lot of deer in the paddock and on the horns begged trim souvenirs. Slightly sat and talked and went on. Irina advised to put the knee young leaves of plantain – reduce swelling and relieve pain. For turning left off, and from 15 to 16 hours staged a lunch.
After r.Tuotayy began a long, 20 kilometers to the straight section to r.Syukdyu. In front of her on the left bank Syukden cabin and a monument on the shore. But we did not go near it stood a motorboat full of people. Today is Friday evening, people are leaving on a fishing trip.
Island Syukden-Ary passed to the left along a narrow duct. We met a few motorboats with fishermen, who have been up the river. The boat went up to the darkness. We already it’s time to park, but as luck would have anything approaching all does not come across. With some difficulty found a place inferior to almost Olekminsk pillars, on the right bank, at the turn of the bushes.
Not very sharp, but chopped thin twigs, grass sketched and put the tent. We just spend the night. Dinner, sip on relaxation. Mosquitoes are surprisingly few, although they have become among the bushes and grass.
Parking: N 59 ° 58,608 ‘E 121 ° 09,769’ H 144 m, S 1862 Km.
The day passed 65 km.
More detailed photos №6 here
Saturday, August 6, 55 day’s journey
Map О51-2, Р51-31,32
8 am, the temperature is + 20 ° C, above the river heavy fog. Koster and morning coffee, then took up the diary, and Irina – breakfast. She does not like when I look in the pot and your bad advice breaking all the feng shui cooking breakfast. I only allowed to bring firewood and look after the fire, and that is not much interfering in the process of bubbling pot.
Today we have to get to the village of Ust-Chara, there should appear on talk mobile communications.
9 am – fog became thinner, a bit scattered. Wounds on the legs I had almost healed, broken face, too, have been bruised. Rank on the nose has healed, too, has not a trace. People will not have to scare. Irina has a tumor on his knee and the swelling is still holding.
Yesterday, on the banks found some plantain leaves – primatyvala at night, says a lot better afterwards. Today, I will still look on the shore near the huts.
I measure the volume of your waist – 101 cm (before the campaign was 112 cm). In favor of the taiga is life!
They went about 11 hours, and immediately went Olekminsk poles. Their 2 wall on the left bank, and a little farther on the right bank.
Coordinates:
1. N 59° 59,476′ E 121° 07,848′
2. N 60° 00,268′ E 121° 07,433′
3. N 60° 07,936′ E 121° 11,259′
Great album “Olekminsk pillars”
Much photographed – the details will already understand the house. Landfall – found the first boletus. On a snack Irina them immediately cleaned and boil. Fold in a jar – preparation for the evening.
Today we go to the mouth of r.Chary, fishermen said that there begins to emerge a mobile communication. Charges its CellPhones – Irina battery in CellPhones quite dead, does not want to be charged from a solar battery at a low current. I have an old Nokia, not so demanding to be charged.
At about 18 reached the ducts and turned into it. By LB high sandy open arc. Passed the along it and in the end drew to the shore. We decided to go no further, and stay here. Upstairs on the sandy cliff nice pine forest. Came upon a yellow boletus, they began to comb the pine and gradually plucked up the whole cap. And then just below, by the river, along the shore at the birches there were also young birch. We stumbled on a wonderful parking lot – probably fishermen stopped. A small clearing, covered by bushes river.
Distilled kayak back to unload. Here and settled. When put up tents, still I found a pile podberёzovikov. So for dinner we had the buckwheat with mushrooms and still whole pan fried butter. Drank vodka balances – has turned to 3 mouthfuls. One bottle stretched the entire r.Olёkmu. Tomorrow will Troitsk, I think it will buy a little more food.
I am trying to revive the battery in CellPhones Irene. Instead, connect the charging 4 AA battery, and then five. Deaf, mobilka flew into some file transfer mode and no button to bring it out of this mode does not work. Tormented for a long time – to no purpose. Maybe because at deep discharge it needs a large charging current. I disassembled all their temporary system and postponed for later. I gather up along the paths of young leaves of plantain – Irina overnight strapped to his knee.
By the evening unraveled the net and put near the shore, in the bushes. Lights out.
Parking: N 60°19,322’E 120°53,565′ H 138 m, S 1913 Km.
The day was 52 km.
Sunday, August 7, 56 day’s journey
Map Р51-31,32
8-30 am. Climb. Welded a sip of coffee, then pulled the kayak into the water and checked the net – empty except for debris scored. No luck us with fishing at the wrong time hit.
He ran on the coastal bushes and even gather up the young boletuses. For breakfast will be soup with mushrooms. We have breakfast and go to Troitsk. Irina last even a bag of a bag of sugar sewed and sewed handles normal. As they say – in anticipation of the store (from the word shopping, because the shops there from birth was not found). Before Troitsk about 26 km, and of there until the Lena river is still 3 kilometers.
We go so far in graphics, even a little ahead – according to plan on the Lena river should go out August 10. Narwhal fresh plantain and besieged knee Irina, bandage elastic bandage. She said that from the plantain becomes better.
The 11-30 came and just behind the cape opened view of the r.Chara – hefty river, the width is the same as Olekma. The water in it too much, the bushes along the shore filled carries debris and timber. Visible houses d.Ust-Chara, I counted 5 houses. Obviously Floor, yesterday saw a cliff next to the cattle and dogs barking. The village did not come – we have to plan today Troitsk.
Not reaching d.Yanki (non-residential)., Landed on the right bank at the beginning of the winter road. Upstairs nice pine forest and went to the right road. Wander around and get some young oil. In the forest on the mound we found an old cemetery. A couple of photos.
At about 15 came to Troitsk. Irina went to look for shops and a pharmacy. But, as it turned out, everything is closed on Sunday. But she still bought 2 liters. milk and 2 had got boo. white bread. They sat right on the beach on a pebble and had a snack. Vdul all the milk and ate almost a whole loaf of bread. Irina says that the store is closed today – the day off.
That last up to 15 hours, then I took a kayak from St. Petersburg – that they had in store. It turns out that we have someone catching up, and may even meet. Here works of cellular Olekminsk – Megafon and MTS, but not very stable. it is necessary to look for a place. But near the mouth Olekma, at the confluence of the Lena river MTS will work with confidence. Since then it has turned out.
We got to the mouth, turned to the right, just passed the Lena along the winter road to PB – there shore razed by bulldozers, and the road goes up. We stopped to stretch their legs. Included CellPhones – there MTS. Send SMS-ki home, waiting for an answer.
All r.Olёkma passed on GPS – 1942 km. Total Olekma on p. Hani we pulled 668 km.
It remains until the end of the route is about 500 km of the Lena River.
(To be continued)
Source: Home diary Chugai Valentina
Part 3 diary Chugai Valentina
Translation: Google
