Your attention is a travel diary Eugene and Natalya Sukhacheva on a catamaran along the rivers Chara and Lena smoky Yakutia 30.06-18.08.2014 year.
July 4
We woke up on the train, in anticipation of the start of the journey, our train was approaching the station inexorably Novaya Chara – the starting point of the route. The train met with the residents of New Enchantment and immediately agreed that we were being taken to drive to the store, and then taken ashore Enchantment. In the village we found that of telephone operators work only Megafon and MTS had to buy a sim card – to inform children about the output of the route.
The car took us to the river bank to the bridge at 13 o’clock local time, the temperature of 15, but there was no rain. Immediately put the tent and began to disassemble and move the products bought all sorts of products, but not all were in the store of what we had planned. There were no lentils, carrots, green radish, spent on products of about 8000 I do not know how many days we will be enough rest as much as possible we will buy more in the way. Boil tea, we drank with sandwiches and went to work.
In the 14 hours began a little annoying rain that slowly, reluctantly came to 23 hours. Mosquitoes and gnats much rain this does not frighten them, and to us after the city is still unusual. In the 17 hours began to collect and leisurely catamaran in three hours he collected. In 20 hours, we climbed into the tent, drank tea from a thermos with canned fish and waffles. And after an hour or so we bedtime. Water in the river is not enough and flows in our opinion – not bad 4-5km. View of the river is beautiful. In the mountains, where some still snow. Tomorrow is the first day of running, you need a good night’s sleep, and the first night in a tent, and not far from the village, always sleeps very sensitive and anxious.
July 5 – The first day of the journey
We left at 9:30 am today. In the morning there is drizzle, frowning. The first day is usually a long time everything is laid, all things as if looking for a place in a catamaran. The river flows snake first days at the foot of the ridge Kodar. Mountains of the approach, it is deleted. On the banks of a lot of the sand dunes of varying heights and shapes. Yesterday the mountains were blue velvet – Today colorful. The water gradually decreases. Several times was warm and the sun peeped, it seems the weather is getting better. On the banks of growing larch and wild rose bushes. Beaches in many places swampy.
In the 14 hours we have seen gorgeous pebble parking with a good place for a tent and campfire. And they decided to no where even today not to go and stay for the night. We tried to fish – it is useless. Water is muddy after the rains. Place virtually no mosquitoes and gnats. Day went to an hour, sleep. As we leave.
July 6 – The second day of the journey
At night, we slept well, the morning was chilly, the code woke up at 7, then the feeling was eight. In the morning the sun came up and it was reheated. They went out at 9:30, no mosquitoes or midges, we do not interfere. The weather is sunny. And if up to 14 hours to sail was comfortable, it was very hot then.
The second day we bathe, wash off the urban bustle and hassle empty. There were up to 17 hours, stood on the high bank, near the lake, tried to fish – to no avail. I do not know how many we have passed today but then tired. At dinner with potato salad.
This is our apparatus К2- RED
July 7 – The third day of the journey
Morning and night were quite warm. Mosquitoes and black flies were in abundance, even water had to wear mosquito nets. There was no wind, the water to get a snack. Gone today Chopo Ologo, the first town on our way. Do not moor. We know that the store is not there, and the need to store the same no. In the afternoon it was very hot all day swimming. Beach sand. and in some places the sand falls through the legs and feet get stuck, you can easily go without shoes.
The water level continues to fall. We stopped for the night at 14.30 in the high long spit of sand, surrounded by mountains. The sky was like approaching rain. So very quickly we unloaded and set camp. But the rain never got. In the evening, we have heard very fearful snarling and vizig seems that one beast tore another. and all this is very close to the tent. scared we cool. Weapons we are not. They do not fall asleep easily.
The picturesque river
The first village on our way Chopo-Ologo
July 8 – The fourth day of the journey
We slept for a long time, woke up at 8:00 am and sunny. They went out at 10.00. A strong wind blew all the gnat and midge with us. The river overflowed and even more became shallow, per night spent 40cm of water. There were very hard. Frontal wind and constant stranded in the middle of the river slows down our way. Often I had to jump into the water and smuggling in the catamaran. Today on our way was a lake Arbokalir with warm thermal spring, which we planned to stay. But as we looked at the map or on the beach, we still got through. It is seen not destiny. We got to the parking lot at five o’clock, exhausted in the trash. Place under a tent in the sand had to align. Tomorrow is the first threshold, they have heard a little bit. Happy seen on the shore of a small Olezhka. He did not want to be photographed – leaped into the bushes.
July 9 – The fifth day of the journey
We slept well, woke up 7:30, the night was warm, the mosquitoes are not annoyed. They went to the route at 9:30 and went to look thresholds. About 11 were already at the first stage Sulumatskogo threshold. Marinas and went to view the threshold. Sulumat virtually dried up river, the water has fallen by 30 centimeters The first step is simply a direct drain on the center. Then turn to the right but we have to go, and probably for good reason. Did you have to keep to the left. Well, went on stream. Life jackets dressed, tied everything as it should be. Gone are the sink, turned, and there are two barrels. One passed, and flew into the second but not the nose and under 45 degrees, well, gone of course, but banked great wave and swept a meter above his head. Clearly be seen from the adrenaline flowing. Well, the picture is oil. Scary! Schwer per barrel in Schwer shafts 1.5 -2 meters. We soaked from head to toe. Next came rifts and Schwer, and walked for about three hours. We are tired of them, and they do not stop and approaching hard on the shores of the stones.
During one of the stops I was bitten by a wasp, painful and unpleasant on the skin acted as an allergic reaction throughout the body, and lasted two hours. They reached the river Taryng Yuryakh think somewhere at the confluence stop. On the high bank is a new cabin. Inside a large stock of products, clearly abandoned helicopter. Stayed in the hut we did not want, and near, there is a good place. We decided to go to the river Konda, good it is not far away, there once stood base geologists. We find a suitable place for the night. Very hot, swim, swim, swim. I had to pull the awning – even Kokaya is but the shadow. Gnats and midges missing. In the evening I threw lure, caught two Lenca, per kilogram and 400 grams per day was very intense physically like a lot and had not plowed. And emotionally, sitting all the time in tension, and even heat.
first Shiver
July 10 – The sixth day – day parking
In the morning wake up, a lot of mosquitoes and midges, cool, though the night was quite warm. In the morning we decided to walk up condo. Scouting the way to the river Tocco. First, we go along the river, in a vperlis chapyzhnik that without a backpack to go very hard. Zavala, marsh, streams, bumps, high moss. Some climbed on both gorushku, there seems to become easier. Pine appeared, but a lot piled on each other trees. Mote as horror – we are sitting on so tight that the clothes do not, in principle, be seen. Back down the hill, away from the river, it is much easier to go. And not far from the camp took to the road, which is marked on the map as a Nartova trail. In fact, it tracked all the way from, however, pretty overgrown. But move it much easier. The whole tour took us about a half hour, and we this is quite enough to form an impression of the way that travelers expect when portage to Tocco.
It should be a very strong heat, it feels 35 degrees -40, swim all day. The water is cool, swimming enough for 40-50 minutes, and again in the water. So much for Yakutia. Happy engaged in economic affairs, Wash. I tried to catch a fish on a bait on the synthetic worm. The case has gone. He caught 18 grayling. Natasha happy. Is engaged in repair catamaran began to veer to the blower Seats. For a long time they could not find a place where the air comes out. Kind of like we found taped. In the evening fish fry. Put to cook pearl barley as clever, not the same one fish. While waiting for barley, still, they began to eat the fish. Forgot about barley, barley, all burned. I had to throw it. We ate fish – was very tasty. As it is not entirely successfully put the tent, all the while under the back of sharp rocks. Three times moved. It is ridiculous!
On the opposite shore condo place like the parking lot of clever Masha – Natasha idea to get across the river. For a long time she tries on, I think I can help her, or go with her, she was one scary. But without waiting for assistance, he took a stick and started to wade across the river. Wet on most aya- yay. I satisfy your curiosity and it became easier.
But for the last two days the vegetation along the banks changed. There were pine, spruce, cedar elfin, larch was noticeably smaller. The water continues to decrease for 2 days at 30-35cm. If this goes on, we will finish the trek on foot. Mountain river, summer floods, a normal phenomenon. The water for a few hours can go up to 2 – 3 meters. On the river Timpton and Olekma we’ve been through. Therefore, the level of water should be vigilant.
11 and July 12 – At the river Hacho
They went out at 8:30. The course is very fast and has already reached 13.30 to the left tributary of the river Chara Hacho, where he planned to stay. In the evening we went on a kayak alone guest. He himself from Irkutsk.
In Sulumatskom threshold he turned over and sank half of his uncomplicated equipment. He stood next to us. Utopia paddle. I had to do something new, than could have helped him. In the evening he prepared ear of the Siberian grayling caught me. The whole evening was not very heavy rain.
The next day, in the morning we planned to radial access to one of the adjacent vershinok. But as Valera stayed with the release, then we went out for about 12 hours. I managed to catch grayling morning. Our route was first on the forest, then parched Bayou Hacho. We went there a couple of hours, several times crossed the ford of the sleeve. But when they realized that we did not we reach nowhere, because the time for many, but to rise to the circus, we need a way the day turned back. On the way back very tired and were soaked. Gather up a few mushrooms aspen mushrooms, however, a lot of worm-eaten but we were on the mycelium with enough potatoes. Well, that time turned. In the evening, still caught grayling. Then grilled fish, prepared mycelium. Then it started to rain with the wind, but warm. We pulled the tent, made of planks makeshift table. They get drunk and sleep. A pile of food still left for tomorrow. Tomorrow we are waiting for the thresholds.
In general, the place where we stand, is very beautiful. The river Hocho very beautiful, clear, turquoise water. The river is short, but very powerful, especially in the flood. At this river is required to do a day’s rest.
Stormy inflows
grayling
Wonderful river Hacho
pyramid
loach
Without the veil can not go
July 13 – The ninth day of the journey
The whole night was rain. We slept not very good, probably overworked yesterday. We are going very slowly and reached only 9.30. Frowning, drizzle, go cool. We passed two thresholds, more like a powerful Schwer. It was very beautiful left tributary – the river the Lake with a small waterfall. Then, on our way river Big Thor, at the confluence of the living cabin is very well equipped with a generator. Did not stop. In contrast to the right-hand side is a beautiful cliff Goёbul powerful. They stopped, after two kilometers on the left bank, on a friendly sandy shelf. I had to pull the awning, light rain began. Tomorrow is going through rapids Tor, and we plan to reach the river canopy. By evening the weather improved, the sun came out.
Everything is very serious
waterfall
Here is a concise label
And it myself cordon
July 14 – The tenth day of the journey
Woke up late, at twenty-eight. While swung until ready for the rapids, and put life jackets, all consolidated on a catamaran out. Mosquitoes and gnats got us once had to wear a hat with netting. The first stage Tor thresholds. We waited of something strong and powerful. In fact, nothing special. Several barrels and shafts 1-1.5 meters, were all without looking. The second stage a bit more difficult, but, too, expected more. Then came yet what that threshold bespontovy. And that’s the rapids on Char ended. Then the sun came up, and it became hot and started blowing headwind. But for another good, the bad and pulls. By 16 o’clock we went to the river canopy. They gathered at the confluence where the stop, but get absolutely nowhere. The river itself is very pleasant, powerful with beautiful clear water, it is a pity that it was not possible to stay there.
Let’s go ahead and reached the river Imalyk. River like a good, but not a wintering or fishing park, nothing. And the parking lot, then not. Come on. Send two kilometers and landed on the island. Long went in search of a place. Finally we got up and spat. Force has no no, the heat under 40, there is no wind, hungry bite was weak, tired. The time is about 19 hours. Quickly cooked pasta, opened a can of canned food, drank brandy gramulke swim. Well, now just sleep. Counted remaining mileage. Now you need 35 – 40 kilometers to pass, that would leave on August 1, Lena. And in fact, and we do not have time to work.
sunset
And this is another cordon, most similar to the cottage
July 15 – The eleventh day of the journey
We got up at 7 am, the street well so prohladnenko. We are going to organize and quickly, so at 9.00 went to the route. There were not approaching, four hours. For well – so far. By the end of the day met the fishermen in the motorboat, they stand in the cabin. Put the network, the fish stored in the glacier. Then pass – because the money and earn. One of the guys, Afghan, disabled pension of 14 thousand. They gave us dinner two small Lenk us that you have not caught anything.
The eternal problem – finding a place to park. At one point we saw a beautiful park, but did not have time to scrape it. It has carried over. From 11:00 began to swim, and to the rebound. Hot, even to the water already used, and in fact it is not more than 12-14 degrees. The day passed 46 km. not reached the river kilometer Torgo three, four.
The first rolling pin
July 16 – The twelfth day of the journey
We woke up at 7 am, come quickly, come out in the chill of 8.35, for very well. The sky is a cloud. Stops at interesting wintering. Storage shed made of bark. With the 14 hours began to swim, and keep an eye on the parking lot. Parking was found rather quickly at 15:00 in a large, beautiful cliffs. It took about forty kilometers to the river Chewing not reached 10 kilometers, but we did not try. Generally already been drawn, it goes well, still not hot. In the evening I was making bread. The result will learn in the morning, when cool. But the rose is very good.
It seems over the river
Winter storeroom
July 17 – Thirteenth day of the journey. Ust-Zhuya
We woke up as usual at 7 o’clock, the sky is usually not a cloud the sun is shining, the music plays … Came 8.30, bake was too early. We have invented a new method of cooling the body. We swim in the storm costumes. And then very slowly dries in a catamaran. Coolness lasts longer in the body, to go easier. I feel like in the sun 40 degrees. We passed the confluence of the Zhuya. Water from it some sort of yellow-brown, turbid flows. In the upper reaches of the river is a drag, pan for gold. In Char water became muddy bottom is not visible, it is not visible stones, boring, swimming unpleasant.
In Ust-Zhue one house, not moored. We saw a few motor boats, owners have not seen. Long could not find a parking space, rose only 16.30 tired. Its 40 kilometers we passed. We could take more if it were not for the heat. But for already weak, rowing without peredyhu. We put up a tent in the shade. We got into it and nap for an hour. In the sky the clouds gathered, the wind picked up, rattled, but, alas, not a single drop on us and did not fall. And how would.
Yes, the bread gone right on glory!!!
July 18 – The fourteenth day of the journey
They went out very early, at 8.10 in the morning a light breeze, the walk was very comfortable the first three hours. The third day of burning taiga, hangs could smell did not seem strong, but no visibility. Difficult to navigate, or the confluence of the rivers, nor the ruling vershinok not seen yet and the water is cloudy. And of course a pity to go on such a beautiful place and that does not see. With 14 hours, unbearably hot, swim. We went today to 16 hours. They swim very beautiful mountains – different colors pink, reddish gold veins, purple. I was in Mexico, but I think there are mountains.
Who would have told us that the middle of July, at 9 pm, all entrances to the tent open, lying naked in a tent and wait, when will even the slightest chill breeze or that you could fall asleep. Sleep impossible. The sun is still very high above the horizon, warming may not have much, but very light. In the sky, that it is constantly rattles, but no rain, like a dry storm. Therefore Taiga is burning. Here the weather in Yakutia, in July, on the river Chara.
day of judgment
July 20 – The sixteenth day of the journey
The whole night was a very strong storm. Rain is not shed much, but rattled three hours is very strong, even tent was terrible to sit. Some fell asleep. In the morning the sky is covered with clouds the sun no wind either. Quickly gathered, captured with a birch chock that evening to bake bread. There were long today to 14.30. The wind was favorable, the sun peeped, drizzling rain to see any small, the flow velocity is very small. I do not have time to put the camp as Sergei went kayaking. He was raised a few days on the river Sen upstream. And then he changed his mind, and now caught up with us. Watered with tea. I explain to him what and how, given the cards on the Lena. And he went on.
I tried to catch a fish – to no avail. Bake two loaves of bread. We get different density test. But both tasty and well-propeklis. Navarro mushroom soup of dried mushrooms, which were taken from the home. In the evening I went motorboat with local children from Byas-Kuele. They said that in the village there is a shop. But strive to get into it, we will not get, go, do not get let us enter the Tocco.
Tocco more, and it was full of shops. To revise products, determine what you need to purchase. Gone now only 25 kilometers.
July 21 – The seventeenth day of the journey
We woke up as usual at 7. Over the river fog, fog in the mountains. It is impossible to navigate, no mountain is not visible or not visible islands. The sun seemed to drive a little, and then hid. Up to 12 hours were close to the shore, afraid of losing him. The 12 landed dinner started wind and natural counter. Buried, torment another two hours and a half, spat and got up. Place like high pines. While the camp set, we thought we would eat with giblets and mosquitoes and gnats, and what that small reptiles. And everybody wants to bite. Lit chimney fire drives away as we can. Here is such a day.
July 22 – The eighteenth day of the journey
We got up early at 6.10 the night was very cold probably the coldest in this campaign, in a sense no more than 10 degrees. Closed tent, the first time I buttoned sleeping. But in the morning, beauty, no reptiles, were frozen. The river has risen by 60 centimeters, is very pleased with us. The river widened and became more shallow water. Quickly came and went at 7.40 Fog such that ten meters, can not see anything.
First 3 hours were literally at the touch, 10 to 15 meters from the shore. On the water it was pretty cool, even Natasha wore gloves on his hands. After 12 began to blow strong headwind and we immediately began to look for parking. Parking found very admirable. Sandy slope, and below pebble spit. Not the small pebbles in the overall Princess and the Pea rests precisely. Well, for us to go.
Suitable for a local motorboat. Motorboats become much after Byas-Kuele. Powerboat go to Tocco and back per day counted 10 pieces. The Byas-Kuele lives of 70 people, bred cows and horses, and of hunting and fishing do. But the fish here is not to hurt a lot of water still after the confluence of the river so muddy Jouy and goes. In the evening, I caught on spinning, two large groupers. By night carousing day, the sky cleared.
July 23 – Nineteenth day of the journey
I woke up at seven o’clock. At night and in the morning cool 10 – 12 degrees. Fog is not strong, stretches near the mountains. They went out at 7.40 Shlos very good boating pleasure and quickly moved on the map.
At 10:30 left on a left tributary of the river Chara ISDB. The river was not very pleased, of course the water is clean, but not to approach, to stop or to go fishing anywhere. We started to look for parking. Two times tried to stop, but it’s not that. It was only at 15.30 already risen. After 6 – 7 hours of rowing, such as the already tired and wanted to get to the parking lot. We got back to gravel, and midges smaller and close to the water, bathe and wash convenient, has its advantages. In the evening a success fishing, caught two pike, perch, two, and five dace. Natasha night erased all dried up instantly. Baggage long fish, lay too late.
July 24 – The village of Tocco
We woke up at 6 am, the weather is about 12 degrees. They went fast. For three hours we reached the village of Tocco, where about 5 ulits.V village Tocco lives of about 3,000 people. Lots of tiny shops gathered in the center of the village. Sell the same at the same rate. Different owners only. Yakut village, they say everything in Yakutsk. But when we ask, respond to Russian. Hours was enough for me that would buy everything you need. They learned that the village has cellular communication Beeline. It was good that we had Bilaynovskaya Simca. Messages sent to all children.
After Tocco, walked two and a half hours already hard, hot and tired already. During the slow loop large. Berths I has caught dace, Natasha fry, but made an omelet. Dinner Natasha went to bathe. Already 21 hours, and the tent is still very hot. In the evening, he phoned his son and exchanged news. According to our calculations to the Lena River 4 more days’ journey.
July 25 – The twenty-first day of the journey
They went out at 7:50. The first two hours were a blur. About 13 hours went up to the confluence of the Tocco in Chara. We went into the Tocco upstream and saw on the shores of a motorboat, thought that there cabin. But it turned out that there is a children’s camp adventure tourism, which has existed for almost 30 years, no. The children come for free for two weeks, go hiking, live only in tents, cook it yourself on the fire.
As we approached, a change just ended, there was only a teacher, his assistant and three students. The camp is very friendly person. I decided to provide us with products we either refused, he did not listen to us. He gave us a kilo of sweets, a jar of condensed milk, three cans of canned fish, a jar of jam, a kilogram of butter. Here in the camp we stayed the night.
place Squad
Children’s camp at the confluence of the river Chara Tocco
July 26 – The twenty-second day of the journey
In the morning a very heavy fog. The first two hours moving 10 to 15 meters from the shore. Only then were able to navigate around the map – see where we are. Then the fog lifted, the sun got out, it was very hot. They walked and walked, the mileage has a wound, and nowhere to stay. And only 17 hours notice a small path up the mountain. Berths, up the path, and in the depths of the forest found a wonderful cabin, very clean, well maintained and lovingly.
No options have decided to stay in it, though rarely stand up to the cabin. But here, and tired, and what are the prospects with parking unclear. Bathhouse wonderful, but without owners hesitate to heat, and the water from the creek owners gain, but it was dry. And wearing out of the river so far. The dry forest, all the crunches underfoot, and naturally no mushrooms. Today, caught a few dace, and there is no strength to cook, tired as a dog, 10 hours on the water, it is difficult for us. 6:00 That is for us the most, well, 7, 8 well, and after that soup.
July 27 – Hello Olekma
The last day on the river Chara. We slept all they could wake up at 7.30 although had to get up at 6. Outside, the drizzle, and therefore sleep nicely. But we especially do not hurry. In the morning, we not prepared, boiled gulls on the Primus then – then devoured, no bread – eaten. As a result, after three hours already hungry.
On the river, a phenomenon that even Met could not determine with certainty. Whether it could, or fog, or smoke is whether all together. Whether here all the time, so whether it’s terrible luck with this unusual weather events. Well, I’ll tell you a little, not that that would be difficult to breathe, can not see nifiga. Rocks, mountains all offer very late, all in a haze.
We came to the village of Ust-Chara, the descriptions are not habitable. Actually core. 4 – 5 residential houses exactly seen a herd of horses with a shepherd. On the shore is a few motorboats. Immediately after the Ust-Chara began to look Olekma parking. But it is not. One bank of low, swampy, another rock. We come and go, waiting for what used to be over. Rock forward ended. We went to a hill of gravel and sand, and pine shelf above, can be, but very high. But at least it is clear where you will spend the night, and then you can go an hour or two or three or even knows where to stand. So we got up at three o’clock. Ten kilometers passed by Olekma. And fifteen left to Troitsk.
Today, a batch of bread, for that of the winter quarters, taking a few birch logs and birch coals gives very good that we want. Shelf though pine and high on blown into the potash, but living creatures, I’ll tell you. Mosquitoes, gnats, flies, gadflies, bees and three varieties of ants. In general, we with Natasha, was born at the same time as that idea home in Yandex to request bloodsucking Yakutia. And if such a monograph yet. We are ready to write such a work. Describe the types, specify how many who sucks blood. in liters, and so on. You look, to earn money for a helicopter to get to the upper reaches of the Aldan.
…to be continued…
Album of the rafting on the rivers Chara and Lena (2014) – the river Chara watch.
Album of the rafting on the rivers Chara and Lena (2014) – Lena river watch.
Topographic maps of the route of the rafting on the rivers Chara and Lena here.
Source: Marshruty.ru
Translation: Google
