Your attention is a continuation of a day trip Eugene and Natalya Sukhacheva on a catamaran along the rivers Chara and Lena smoky Yakutia 30.06-18.08.2014 year.
July 28 – Lena
Woke up at 5.45 in the street is very heavy fog, so that even this beach to be seen, not so much so. The night was cold, strong winds with fog, podmerzli little. In the morning all by herself dressed warm, we drank some coffee, gathered, pushed off 7.30. The first hour of walking like normal, then vpёrlis in which the stranded and more and smaller. As a result, we got out of the catamaran and 20 minutes of pushing him, and dragged, and all this in the middle of the river, to the coast of 200 meters, but these shores we do not see, dense fog, which push on this do not understand. Well, sort of went aground not see shores. Then we see the left bank approached him and began to stick by his side. Then it was over, we decided that it was an island. Twenty minutes no shore is not visible and strong wind, and there is almost no flow. Well, you have to go, here we go somewhere imagine. Wind grebёm counter that there is strength. And thus we rowing two hours. Then flew back to what it aground, and we feel that power has to go there is not any.
Came ashore, stranded steel watch that virtually impassable. They sat in a catamaran, we began to think. Think, think. And before I say, well, we all like a compass is no longer needed, and everything is clear, put it in a backpack. Well, that got a compass, we can not understand anything – where are we? In general, as it turned out, a little later, two and a half hours, we were not only against the wind, but also against the current. As in the proverb. Sail – ALL NIGHT rowing in a boat untied forgotten. Let’s go back again to face the wind but the tide. Finally we decided on where we are. Send to Troicki. Normal people to Troitsk two o’clock stroke, and so we, in exactly four and a half. Troitsk were 13 hours. He went to the store, and he from 13 to 15 break for lunch. Naturally wait two hours on the beach, we did not have any desire.
Come on, a strong head wind, going the last kilometers of Olekma, well, very hard, there is a matter, Lena props. After 1.5 hours, we came to Lena. It became a little easier. The wind had dropped, and for Lena was much stronger than in the past Olekma kilometers. Map marked with small tributaries of the 1st executioner executioner 2nd, 3rd executioner. No executioners are not visible, but the whole shore break and bulldozers have paved the embankment, which is expensive, well, in general it is clear nothing.
Then what is the workers that were dug on the bank explained that it felts pipeline Toli Toli pipeline pull, felts upgrade. No one, or anything, really can not explain. Parking spaces are normally not present, and already the fifth hour, we are tired as a dog. Finally got up on the cobbles bulldozer leveled a bit. Put up a tent, built a fire. He came up to us a small barge from it began to unload sacks are any crane, in bags, marble chips. The Lena water dark, but clear, the depth is very large even at the coast. Well, dinner, sip and sleep. Day, I’ll tell you a success.
July 29 – Twenty-fifth day of the journey
Night and morning cool. We got up at 6, left 7.40. Fog and haze from the fires, a week can not put out, no visibility, the opposite shore is not visible. We decided to go to the village of Salsola, on the left bank. Poti once it came out, first passed the village of exploration, there is something such as shift camp. And right behind him 500 inhabitants village two shops one works with the other 9 to 10 am. Wait 30 minutes, we waited discovery. But, unfortunately, no potatoes, no cigarettes, bought biscuits, waffles, a few cans of food, two jars of jam that what we wanted, and even sugar.
Then we decided to go to the left bank. But what a nasty beach, sand dunes stretch, the end is not in sight. Bypassing the dunes, and can not see any one bank, to go very sad. So we decided to leave again to the right bank. About 15 hours were met quite suitable pebble area, decided to stay on it. Natasha took dinner, I went fishing. 7 good perch caught on spinning, but the pike fell, well, God bless her. Gone on the map a little more than 40 km. By the evening of raging midge hours to 20, and as it becomes cooler midges become much smaller. Visibility is poor, and the camera does not We reach.
July 30 – The twenty-sixth day of the journey
The day started very interesting. It is interesting because we have stood watch. After seeing the camera in time added 6 hours in the morning to think badly, after all of this decided to get up. They went out, the wind counter haze rested for a long time. Since we can not be guided. We see is a boat, which means somewhere near the hut. They went out, went to look and found the hut, and two seniors from Olekminsk. Guys are excellent. All of us showed explained everything, gave us a lot of products. When approached the boat, they were going to go home, we caught pike kilograms 2 and immediately gave us. That such people have got on our way. They are us, and we take pictures of, and on the left.
As always, the problem with parking, walked right up to 18.30. Force has no no no place, though not much, but 19 hours is no longer wanted to touch. Quickly put the camp, I went to leave the spinning. 4 caught perch, pike small one and a half kilos, and even Lenca. Yes, even the pike, which are presented. The fish we eat will not have time. Today, it began to appear beautiful rocks of different shapes and colors. But, unfortunately, there is not any shooting possibilities – haze, and against the light. Tired, 10 hours in water.
Friends of Olekminsk
Here and rowed through life
July 31 – Twenty-seventh day
In the morning cool, cloudy and a strong headwind. On the morning of fried pike. Sail, passed about 15 minutes remembered that on the bank forgot to spinning. I had to walk back, well not far behind. The wind is blowing fiercely, rowed on all cylinders. We are moving very slowly. We crossed to the left bank of the Lena. In the evening, we felt moved at a speed of 3 km per hour. In the village Uritskoye came to 15 hours. Before the store 30 minutes to travel 30 back. Behind the village, large sandbanks and must bend around. The wind did not let up, do not have any flow, and we are tired. Rowing hours to 18. We feel that these shoals pass today, we can not, and on this side there is no place to stand, people walk, ride the machine on headlands are horses.
We decided to go to the right bank. Crosses long and landed only 20 hours. 12 hours for the water – tin. Overtired. We do not have to cook, nakipyatili tea, made sandwiches with cheese. Mote is complete. Lena met us bad, do not give us rest. Walk like a little, and get nowhere, we planned to wash, and there is no place like it does not add anything. Gone are the Lena River about 200 km. If you go today, 20 – 24 km. That’s how we come again to frost. Headwind does not go faster, stop can not even begin to drive backwards. Today it has become a bit better visibility, whether the fire is extinguished, or the wind dispersed.
what are the open spaces
Yakut horse
impressive
August 1 – The twenty-eighth day
They went out as usual. Calm, visibility is good. Later, even the wind was passing. They walked quietly, without straining at one of the stops caught a small pike. The plan was to walk to the river and Tuolbachan her up. We pretty quickly before it reached two o’clock were already in place. I caught in the shallows Lenca 1.5 kilograms, the evening will be toast. Nakupalis, rinsed all the clothes on the banks of the tent and spread it all dried rope pull nowhere. I tried to clean the pots, he transported the whole, up to the eyebrows with soot. Mote much. dinner in a tent. Natasha said that the fish already ate.
Lenok on the Lena River
August 2 – The twenty-ninth day
The fifth day of the Lena River. Visibility is bad and getting worse, the wind shifted to the passing bears – great. With a headwind did not blow away a gnat. Today we mahanuli about 50 km. although woke up late and went out late, because cooked fish and buckwheat. We went to five o’clock in the evening. Thunder rumbles 3 hours already, and not a drop of rain. Fishing did not even past have not eaten, and had eaten already. So far, the Lena River, than especially disheartening. The second time we go to Lena barely.
August 3 – The thirtieth day of the journey
The sixth day the Lena River. Woke can not see anything at all. At night rumbled, rattled, the rain was 15 minutes a little bit soaked earth and everything. In the morning a continuous smoke from the fires, the opposite side of the Lena is not visible at all. They went out at seven in the morning and went up to five hours of hard, cool not rested. All day pestering gnats. Gone are the order of 50-52 kilometers. And even not very exhausted. I managed to catch more bass and tear favorite catchability lure.
In the morning the wind was favorable, and with this wind, we constantly pushes the stern in one direction and then the other. Then he shifted to the side. And then pick up, says his wife, in this crap out of which barely got, sand, sand, sand, and other bank and not see him leave because we can not. For a long time it was along these shoals have not yet seen the opposite shore, and soon they saw him. And there is a very high cliff beautiful, then gorushki lower but with a beautiful pine forest on top. On the map there was a village Elovka unclear why. After the terms of some pine trees! On the shore grazing by themselves, and indeed elsewhere in Yakutia, horses and cows. Then for a long time could not understand what kind of facilities on the beach. And it is not clear at the water barrier. What would surprise nobody from the river to the shore is not popped up. Like this.
As it turned out, a small zavodishko mining and processing of building stone. Come on, almost on the bare shore near the water is a brand new doroguschy jeep doors open – and no “good people go, take that you liked.” Next zaplutali in sand spits that find each other, and between them ducts with the currents in different directions. Something where we even had to go to carry out the catamaran. But something all the same out.
Crossing the channel with very poor visibility, almost crushed bead double barge carrying coal, apparently “northern delivery”. They barely barely dodged us. I do not know how the barge, and we got cold feet a little. Time was already five, and after five criteria for choosing a site for the tent we are already close to zero. In theory, we are ready to stand up anywhere, with anyone and on any surface. Today is the first time in this campaign, we sleep on the clay when it is necessary to try something. Today celebrated the 30th day of the journey in the campaign. Drunk spirtyazhki Maleh, we are passing all the creeping thing, and going to sleep.
August 4 – Thirty-first day of the journey
The seventh day of the Lena River.
Paradise – a tent, in which nothing is flying.
Yakuts like Yakutia because there are no midges nine months.
These are the thoughts sometimes come to mind.
They went out at five minutes past seven, cold, wind, visibility is not. There were up to 15 hours, the wind passing, to 12 hours, on the side. Not tired. We landed on the small river to throw spoon. Well pecking perch, caught 25 pieces. Roast them on coals and immediately brushed them away from the skin and bones. One meat piled into banks. Carry in this form is very convenient, and dinner is not the same water. Well, the truth had to tinker a little. At dinner, cooked potatoes. We stand on a gravel spit that came gnats were not, the wind was blowing. And after the wind died and nine began … the whole day on the Lena very busy traffic. Barges and scurry to the top, and down the fairway is very close to the right bank. We have to go 5-10 meters from the shore. A day later, “Lena Pillars”.
Not on this planet
The bed really became shallow
perch
So, roast over coals
August 5 – Thirty-second day of the journey
We woke up late in the eighth hour, slept badly, covered poorly, prevented the strong wind. We went into the wind passing 8.30, which pleases. The whole day is almost never seen gnats, strong wind and cold. Several times a day going to the black clouds, but the rain did not take place. The landscape has not changed, the rocks are beautiful, but to skirt sandbanks is not very sweet. Transitioning from coast to coast are not very comfortable catamaran no canoe, not the speed.
Along the way, I caught bass 5 grams per 500 and a small pike. We repeated yesterday evening the cooking process. We really enjoyed dinner on the go, eating fish a spoon from the jar. Today, we noticed that salt ends. It must be somewhere to look. The evening was a light rain, we were ready, do not dunk. In general, colder to 12 – 14 degrees, and now do not want to swim. Called youngest son, audibility bad, but then we realized he was still alive, and the rest of the lyrics.
August 6 – Thirty-third day
The ninth day of the Lena River. Day very successful. Woke up at 6.10 came in 7.40, visibility is good, no smoke, no midges. True night was very strong gusty wind, thought will carry the tent. It was very cold, draughty tent. By morning the wind died down, and it was warm. The going was very comfortable. At the first inflow started to fish and catch all day and the evening turned out they weighed more than eight kilograms. There were two pike 1 and 4 kg, the rest perches. So we decided to get up early and prepare your fish. And we planned to bake two loaves of bread. Not only had the pike fry, left for tomorrow morning because the afternoon bumped midge.
Today again the whole day bathing. We met a fisherman asked him salt, he said that in his cabin near. It turned out to ranger of the National Park “Lena Pillars”. He has a great house for 5-6 beds, Russian stove, a huge veranda, sauna, garden furniture, all in excellent condition. This is the upper cordon. We offered it to rest, but we politely declined. A person plans work. And we have wanted to go home and do not want to delay the campaign
August 7 – the thirty-fourth day of the journey
The night is warm. In the morning dozharivali pike. When all laid out on the bank received four kilograms of finished fish meat without bones. Fishing vetoed. Catch can but necessarily go. Gathered quickly. The first hour there was no wind, then blew out the side, and then the counter began to grow. And we talked about this time as the time went around the sand bar and we went around her infinite amount of time. Envelope and no end in sight, no guidelines, goes beyond the horizon, and nothing more moving or standing, is unclear.
For a long time were tired, you can not stop immediately blows back. For lunch we moored to the Spit. Results of sport fishing: two pike at 2 and 4 kg, and all five big perch is successfully released. Since it was hard to go, we got up early. Come on already near the poles, photograph, Moors, walk along the shore. Everything is beautiful. In one cabin Natasha wanted to take pictures of chipmunk, but he refused, they say not ready for a photo shoot, before you need to prevent.
August 8 – Thirty-fifth day
I woke up very early today, at five o’clock. At 6.40 already left. Two hours went when no wind, and moved very well. Approach to our motorboat Inspector of Administration nat. Park, very politely submitted all told. Nestroy was very friendly. Two hours later we came to the central park of the estate. We walk, look, talk to employees and the Yakut family vacationers at the base. We moved on.
Then I caught a pike at 4,600 – filmed and released. Then he blew out the headwind. Today, we go through the main part of the column, but is said to have eyes zamylenny. The first examines the rock, looking for a variety of figures, one is struck by the grandeur and beauty. But with every kilometer wonder less and less. And then you look like what it is self-evident. At 60 kilometers Ohoven and APB just is not enough. Gone on this day a lot, because the water was more than 10 hours. In the evening swimming. It is going to rain, but never met. All the most interesting in this campaign look like, feel like home already.
August 9 – Thirty-sixth day
In the morning a lot of gnats and mosquitoes. And this despite the fact that the head wind blowing so strong that an hour of rowing, were forced ashore to rest. We waited gusts that would then move on. Clouds gathered and went not very heavy rain. Start today is very difficult. We are moving closer to Yakutsk, the heavy traffic on the river. Today is Saturday, and of course a lot more motorboats – people relax.
He caught 27 bass and pike – sport fishing continues. We stopped about six, I wanted to get closer to the Kachikattsam. Natasha now found wild black currant, very tasty and not at all sour. Natasha says in the river bottom was wrong, viscous, and the water is so-so, and the stones stopped to wash – where the staff is looking, what they think is unclear. It is time to end
August 10 – Thirty-seventh day
The last day of the journey, it is what we thought. In the morning the wind, though not very strong, but in the face. Shlos good and we like it quickly passed that have not passed yesterday. We got to tulukanov, met there Yakut tourists they “tritonovskom ‘sailing catamaran” Typhoon “. It weighs 160 kilograms, but certainly handsome. We came specifically that would rise to the top tulukanov. They we took off, we have them.
It was very hot, we had to approach the Cape for swimming – there is a perfect place, and sand from the shore and immediately deep, and for not very strong, and there is the shadow of the trees. Then, quite quickly reached the last cordon National Park, which is located at the mouth of the river Buotoma, did not go there. In Buotome amazing purity and transparency of water. There is some quite decent buildings and most of all it looks like a recreation center. At this point begins Kachikatskaya duct. Log into it looking for a long time, local fishermen do not know it. And it still is, that very little has been Buotome water, and the entrance into the channel width of one meter and 20 centimeters deep. To enter, pick up one gondola catamaran and carried her in his arms. Something like squeezed.
Gone 100 meters, and then it is not clear where to go, around the sands, shoals, and dozens duct. And virtually no flow. Steep spinning eventually Natalia during the regular leashes catamaran got into a quicksand where it was really sucks. Plunged almost ay ay I’m in the sand, afraid drowned one slipper. The second had to be thrown. We walked along this duct is very long and tedious. Very hot, forty degrees, headwind. Seen through binoculars at home, we decided that this is the beginning of the village.
Berths that would not have near the village to spend the night. In the evening, all the stuff is too dry, shaken up, counted, repack. 5-6 kg of the product remains, which we will present to someone, leaving only what may be needed in the train. We sat in the tent at night and dreamed of tomorrow will get out of this wonderful edge to rail. We knew we had that we will …
11 – August 13 – Completion
The thirteenth of August we thank God in the train. The tickets we bought very well, up to the Samara. Before Neryungri arrived and there had 15 hours to wait. Well, first things first.
When stopped yesterday, we believed that the village is very close and we are at most an hour before we reach him. But it turned out all wrong, and the port and the ferry is still very far away. Where is approaching do not know exactly. Several times approaches, asking if they found someone, moved on. And so for about four hours. Finally yet arrived. Catamaran dragged out to dry, and themselves quickly began to collect things. Ferries are suitable not something that would rarely, but still fit. We stand on the way we vote, but no one takes us. Hungry. We ate at a roadside cafe conditionally edible food, no choice. Come vote on. But do not take us all here. Time is already five hours to the night thing.
Finally stopped a good man, his name is Alex, and he did not really want us to take. But we persuaded him – seen by this time we had a kind of miserable and bleak prospects. We climbed, with some difficulty, in Chinese 35 ton dump truck. Themselves into the cockpit, backpacks dirty body. My God, in what form we will get them. The dump truck carry basalt, and on the way there was a rain. The road – do not forget it for a lifetime. First road asphalt chunks, and where there is no asphalt that something terrible that way do not dare to call. More first two hours, nothing, and when to go 10:00 on a road that is something with something. From Kachikattsev Tommot to 380 kilometers.
Alex tried as best he could, but in such a way that little depends on him. We are certainly very much regret it, work at it – hell, no money is not needed, and the enemy does not want. Several times stayed in a roadside cafe, they are not so much, 3-4 380 kms. Bad poor, but we were brought Tommot three in the morning and once in the familiar from last year and the only one on the entire Tommot hotel. Very warm goodbye to Alex, he still would not take the money, barely persuaded. Meetings with such people are remembered for a lifetime.
The hotel, by the way, is designed for 10 – 15 people. And there are free places are not always. Thank God, the duty did not see in what form our backpacks. Finally namylis in the shower and went to sleep for a couple of hours. In the morning I went to buy tickets at the station. In the afternoon we went to the familiar from last year cafés “Hope”, which is very tasty and not very expensive to prepare. In the evening we went to the station, where at 18 o’clock train took us to Neryungri, where we arrived at three o’clock. Desperately wanted to sleep. Torment to eight, and then settled in a single room at the station, where literally fell off to sleep. Waking up, after 5 hours, we went to the city, a walk, had lunch, bought food for the journey. Well, here we are in the train and after 122 hours will be on the threshold of his apartment. So ended the campaign Chara – Lena 2014.
at the beginning of a hike
returning from a hike
Album of the rafting on the rivers Chara and Lena (2014) – the river Chara watch.
Album of the rafting on the rivers Chara and Lena (2014) – Lena river watch.
Topographic maps of the route of the rafting on the rivers Chara and Lena here.
Source: Marshruty.ru
Translation: Google
