Island Post. In principle, it is believed that the river Lena ends on the island pillar, then begins a river delta. And therefore, for us to post – this is almost the end of our expedition. Everything else was a bonus for us. Nope, we have the sea, Laptev Sea!
Are approaching.
Because of squalls, walked along the right bank of the Cape and turned over to the island. Climbed the steep slope. The height of the island at 114 meters. Everything. Everything! Hooray! The goal is achieved! Dreams Come True! Six years ago, I stepped over the trickle that turned into a great river.
We are pleased to congratulate each other. Here include the brain, remember that you forgot a plaque and my poster. Someone needs to go down to the boats, resets on matches. “Lucky” to Slava, he and volunteer Pavlov go down to the boats. A-aah, I’d better go, too – wind penetrates to the bone.
At the top of the island stands serge, meteovyshka in very poor condition and two pillars built of stone. According to legend, in this place were buried two shamans.
There is something to be proud of Sasha Pavlov.
Photographed, nailed plate, drank a glass of “Grushevitsy” Slava you stashed away for the occasion. Then he lay on the ground, looked up into the sky. Happiness.
Advertising “Panda and the Crane” :))
And “Yakutsk Evening” :))
View of the Lena Delta Bykovskaya duct.
Not earthly view of.
Ended six years of the expedition.
Meanwhile, the wind became unbearable, had to descend.
At the bottom of my “charm”.
Polar station “Post”. Leaving the island pillar moved to the Post. So called polar station. Rather, earlier so called, now its official name – the polar station Habarova. In honor of the first chief Tiksi radiomettsentra, Habarova Zhivago. However, all the boatman called and called to this day the station Sokol, named mountain of the same name. On the shore we waited our barrels of gasoline. We sent them earlier convenient opportunity, on the ship “Stvor”. Assumed to refuel, to talk about life-being with explorers and 2-3 hours to go.
Lena storm changed our plans, and as a result, we spent 6 days at the station. Threw a winch boat ashore to body wave smashed against the rocks. Meteorologists met us as Siberians meet – friendly, welcoming, as they say, with bread and salt. Only instead of bread had pancakes, pies, soups, a variety of main dishes, venison, venison and again venison, fish, fish and fish again. Some of their stocks and dragged us. Once entered into the main room of the station, stupefied. Two walls of the living room are made to the floor-to- ceiling book shelves just bursting with heavy volumes, solid library. Guys, feral without books, immediately rushed to the shelves. I thank God, the books were uploaded to the gazhdety, read – not – read.
Another wall in the room – the same.
On the wall hangs a real steering wheel of the ship, next to the corner proudly shines bell (ship’s bell). Head of the polar station – Alexander, who is also a hydrologist, his colleague, and part his wife Galina, she meteorologist. Perfect cleanliness and absolute order anywhere and everywhere – her handiwork.
Alexander and Galina.
Not necessarily the ones we were to live on the station. Storm introduced us to Moscow photographer Vladimir and Vladimir Ogloblin (Fu – you forgot the name, sorry). The guys toured many remote corners of our planet. Karakum, Tuva, Fann Mountains, Kyzyl Kum, Samarkand, Bukhara, Altai, Franz Josef Land, Taimyr, Tianshan, Kolyma, Lake Jack London, Solovetsky Islands, Carpathians, Karelia, Chukotka and Magadan … the list goes on. They showed part of their work. Hats off to the true pros.
Sat at the table, until morning and talked. It was interesting to listen to us, we, in turn, with their mouths open listening to them. Photographer – it’s a lifestyle, it’s a calling. Our team is sitting in a warm house, reading books, doing nothing has been hard, and they wear raincoats, take their equipment and the tundra – to remove the stamens, pistils, all living creatures. Then look at the pictures and just amazed where they find such beauty.
Vladimir Ogloblin, Alexander Pavlov, Alexander Lee. See photos.
Volodya one at work.
And the other one.
Also, because of the weather, with us stuck commercial director of the International Biological Station Lena-Nordenskiöld Semen Troev. Storm, meanwhile, is gaining momentum and was not going to subside. Such waves on the Lena, I’ve never seen. Scary and huge. Go on such a wave – suicide.
In winter, when the wild wind blows everything in its path, when the snow fills in minutes – just scored – fills all the that can be filled – zaporoshit not to get lost in the three meters from the house because of a blizzard, broke into the ground poles, are tied to them rope. So, holding the rope, people go from building to building.
Strange creature man: when it’s hot – he wants a cool, refreshing cold when cold circle – dreams of warmth. Several years ago there was a show – “Survivor”. Popzvezdy, artists, entertainers had for a month to “survive” on an island in the warm Caribbean Sea. Genial sunshine, gentle waves, stormy tropical vegetation, shore sandy beach, swimming in the sea, sekos under the palm trees, coconuts and bananas … A lot of people all around: cameramen, directors, lighting assistants. And advertising, advertising. If this is extreme – that I am a Chinese spy. These would be the “heroes” in the Arctic. All of them, including “last” in a real extreme, without assistants and cameras would have died in a few days ( what there a month). Laptev Sea is not a tropical paradise.
Where does all this. Those few days when we waited out the storm at the station, a lot of what we said Alexander – owner of “Sokol.” Prior to this the polar station, he spent many years on the polar weather station on the island of Boiler. (Boiler Island (yakut. Olguydaah aryy) – the largest island in the archipelago of the New Siberian Islands. Area – 23200 km2. Opened in 1773 Russian merchant Ivan Lyakhov).
For him, it ‘s just life, ordinary, routine. Fresh water is not present, the terms of the salty sea, recruited from puddles after rain. Winter, but of course the same, snow stoked. No tree around, nor shrub, one tundra. And polar bears. Showed their photos, where a huge bear looks into the window station. Umka, blah! Photo or where foxes sitting on the roof of the station. However, foxes, stray dogs – says Alexander did not leave in the yard, all staschat scattered. Door of the house open only inward to where the snow blizzard nametet above the roof, the door is possible in principle was open, and then dig – dig in the snow moves like a mole. Telling it all, the master station laughs. For him, it ‘s just life. Normal. Yes, after seeing a funny show ” Survivor.”
Is our Lena.
Have guessed what it is?
Base Ust-Lena Reserve. Samoilov Island.
When the waves calmed down a bit, we are light, things went without the cordon Ust-Lena Reserve, he is on the island Samoilovsky. Expected there to meet with the head of Alexander Gukova Reserve, the author of “Mysterious Yakutia” and “Black Arctic”. Unfortunately, it was not there. (At this time Tiksi expect Putin’s arrival, all were there. By the way, Putin has not arrived, was the head of the Security Council Nikolai Patrushev).
About the book “Mysterious Yakutia”, “Black Arctic.” Read all. Highly recommend. One thing. In Yakutsk them on sale there. I bought through the Internet.
“Ust -Lensky ” State Nature Reserve, organized in 1985. The total area of the protected territory – 1,433,000 ha. (!) Reserve polar maritime climate is very harsh. Duration of snow cover is 250-270 days. (!) Average length of the frost-free period in the north of the reserve of 40 days. ( !) And in just such conditions grow unique plants, many of which are listed in the Red Book, a large number of nesting birds (109 species), such as: the American goose, white gull, ivory-billed loon, the largest golden eagle, red-breasted goose, Bewick’s swan, white-tailed eagle, white crane, white goose, common eider and the northern, gray crane, Gulls and others. Walk, roam, swim about 33 species of mammals such as the polar bear, walrus Laptev Sea, a rare species of cetaceans – Narwhal (unicorn), beluga, bighorn sheep, lynx, musk ox and other animals. In general, a normal zoo gathered in one place.
Cordon for many years going research. This is class! Only here Russian scientists . Hmm … 🙁 Germans, Dutch, French. Every summer, about 20 scholars come to the Ust-Lena Reserve for the study and observation of permafrost, with the release of methane. Said that the Arctic is a tremendous reservoir of biomass that can be temperature increases environment start to give off methane. and it can be a time bomb for our entire Earth. Germans living in tents, science, science, and I want them to grab Russian exoticism and romance.
Dwellings scientists.
Employee station. Our, Russian woman! Of their own free smile immediately obvious!
And this is an alien 🙂
Near the crates of equipment worth greenhouse. (!) One of the Germans grows spinach in it! He likes it green. Due to the polar-clock day, time to grow. Wonders.
This stuff is full of islands. Washes of ice and permafrost.
After the last visit of Putin, it was decided to build on Samoilovsky large observatory. No sooner said than done. Putin said means to salute and forward without delay. Indeed, immediately was brought technology, about 130 builders(!) Contractors – military engineers – Spetsstroy. All clearly, specifically, minted team, work in full swing. It is unusual to see land on the edge of such a large number of people and equipment. By next September, scheduled delivery of the station.
Work has begun to boil.
Island Bouhor Khaya. Go further. Island Bouhor Khaya. Unique place. Grand. Ice age a million. Brain refuses to accept it. But! Ice melts. Who would not say, but warming on Earth is felt here. Really. And apparently. Moistened hands in this ancient water. Found a phalanx of foot mammoth. Look, sound like, and here you can find the bald trait.
This ice remember the entire history of the Earth.
Slava Levin – isslededovatel antiquities.
Grandly!
Piece Mammoth fingers.
Marika ice storms.
Photos on the memory.
The brain does not want to accept what they see.
Three hours studied cracks and gaps in the ice, photographed. Canned meat snack with bread and moved on.
Island American Haya. Tomb De Long.
Long getting to the memorial tomb of George Washington De Long. Olenyek duct Lena Delta. The river became shallow, and we had to leave the boat 4 kilometers below the hill with the tomb.
Is the tomb on the island of American Haya. Strangely enough, in such places and such a name. Named in honor of the first expedition to the Arctic Central Americans. It equips the means of the publisher of the newspaper “New York Herald” DG Bennett. Head of the expedition, the polar explorer De Long. On the ship “Jeannette” De Long tried to go north, stuck in the ice, drifted 21 months. Opened a number of new land, which he called the island of Jeannette, Ganrietty (names his decherey) and Bennett . Then wooden ship was crushed by ice, the team left the ship. De Long decided to take a course on the New Siberian Islands, then by boat to reach the mouth of the Lena planned and get to some of the village. In the Lena Delta caught in a storm (we already know what it is). All casualties in the dark boat team lost each other and divided. Unfortunately, some people who were with De Long suffering from frostbite, starved to death. The second group under the command of Melville survived, got to the village, and in the spring organized a search expedition. She and buried their comrades on the mountain Kyuegel Khaya. Now it was renamed American Haya. Above the tomb was a wooden cross, on which the inscription reads: “In memory of 12 officers and sailors from the American polar ship “Jeannette”, died of starvation in the Lena Delta in October 1881. The next year remains DeLong and his companions were taken to Yakutsk where they were taken to America.
Now we are near and look at the expanse of tundra, which is seen in his last hour expedition members De Long. Courage and heroism have no nationality.
Left – right. Alexander Pavlov, Maria Ivanova, Slava Levin, downstairs Semyon Troev, Volodya Ogloblin. I’m worth Volodya – Moscow photographer.
Remains of old graves
Nameplate
And the monument from the of Komsomol members Tiksi.
Deer tracks on the island as a human footprints on the beach on a hot day – all trampled. We Sasha Pavlov go first, followed by us, is 150 meters Marika, Sasha Lee and Slava. Between us calmly and slowly (!) Runs wild deer. Like in a zoo.
Go across the tundra to the boats. Along small streams across trap foxes, the so-called mouth. Is a long box of hewn ax sticks with one hand closed tightly. Over the open side of heavy log fastened to mere triggers tied bait. Arctic Fox pulls the bait timber falls, animal remains clamped in the box. Incidentally, the fox in the tundra is not afraid of man, as hunters do not shoot fox gun. Each hunter to feed. Climb into the wrong, is considered one of the greatest sins in the Arctic. Sometimes, to feed did not bring snow under them make an oblong mound of stones or turf. From the side it looks like a lonely, abandoned grave.
Fuzzies.
They myagikie like a little piece of cotton wool.
By evening, the wind increased, decided to return to the station Sokol. Again the storm, endless wind pushes us back into the building polar station “Post”. You can go mad from boredom. The wind is blowing, the days go by. For some time the wind dies down, we immediately begin to gather together the world began to gather their belongings and Semen Troev – komdirektor station Lena Nordenskjold. But, again rising wind forced him to abandon his plans. No, says I’m not crazy and not suicidal, in this weather will not go. We decided to take a chance and moved. Oh, who would I whispered in his ear that I ‘ll be in 5 hours to sink, a boat that overflowed my water and it will sink. Alas, no “not podstelil straw” and we were on our way.
Photos by Alexander Lee (mostly), Alexander Pavlov, and mine.
The end of the third portion.
Source: Dnevniki.Ykt.Ru
Translation: Google
