Route: Kurumkan, r.Garga, d.Pod-Ikat, Ikat Pass, weather station Upper Ikat, Ikat lake, r.Ikat, r.Vitimkan, Ruzan Vit to w/d BAM Bridge, transfer to st.Hani, p.Hani, r.Olёkma, Lena river to Kachikattsy, hitchhiking to st.Neryungri.
Diary of a hike – the river Vitim
Romanovka from the BAM to the bridge part II
Part of the route is 750 km.
Sunday, July 3, 21 days on the road. Day stay
7-30. Rise. We drank some coffee with salted Lenk – only a day spent in the brine. Delicious! Then he dragged the canoe into the water and checked the net – empty. And yesterday a day or a fish. That’s what it means – naselёnka close. Well … then on oatmeal breakfast.
A typical day for a day of rest. Pile work. Dig a hole for the trough lining film, I heat the water for washing. Charging the battery from the solar battery. In the middle of the day, Irina ventured pancakes. Upstream motorboat passed, then another – with a propeller. Although most Romanovka motorboats on the banks we have not seen.
But below the village we saw a duralumin and one wooden. Still, for such a large village of the lack of boats – this is not normal. Before Romanovka about 25 km, I try to include CellPhones – works megaphone. I go out in ICQ – no one yet, too early, everyone is asleep. I turn on after 16 hours (the difference is +4 hours). I understood with maps and descriptions of further pieces of Romanovka Vitim and to bridge the BAM. According to descriptions of the nearest piece – it is 118km to Igrim promise Shiver 32 and 11 shoals. And four Shiver must be relatively complex.
14-50. Lunch – fritters and jelly. In the morning is very hot, the sun was hot. Gadfly atrocities – not much undress. The temperature dropped to 35 ° C, and before that it was + 37.5 ° C in the shade. In the morning, the water began to arrive, and by 15 o’clock level rose by 15-20cm.
According to the map on the left bank, and just above the hut should be – tried to check, but could not get past – to flip flops and swimming trunks pass through the taiga did not work, we went back. By evening, he built a bath and steam bath. Remove all the camp. We drank tea and climbed into the tent. A little chat with the people in the ICQ and lay down to sleep. Lights out.
More detailed photos №5 here
Monday, July 4, 22 day’s journey
Map N49-24
7 am. Coffee, breakfast, leisurely fees. We leave at 9:30. Some water was added, for a fast. shoals often go. But the passage of water to paddle missing. All side tributaries dry. Go easy, everything is on the move, is nothing complicated. The trees along the banks, mainly larch, have become taller and thicker than those that were in the upper reaches. And the height we have already fallen by almost 600 meters – from 1400 to 840m.
Birch is rarely caught, and those liquid. Shivera first met in 45 km from the Romanovka.
Coordinates: N 53° 24,446′ E 113° 05,548′
Try fishing. He replaced wobbler on the track on plain white spoons. First pecked small pike – a soup (which is vlazit a 2-liter pot for soup). After a while trolling and caught a decent pike, 60 centimeters.
After a snack and go one by one small shoals and Shiver.
A day in the air blue haze covers the sun, like the smoke from the fires. In the evening – more. Few clouds came running became overcast. On the beach, on the rocks met wrapped in a piece of film mattresses, side by side on the gravel is scattered pile of old potatoes, is a little sluggish. Apparently the fishermen left. Giving the film a stone, so the wind did not disclose. Porylis and took a few potatoes, even better. Seen in the most forgotten creek net. Two big pike surfaced already swollen and there was a stink.
Steel parked in 19 hours. Right Bank, a small pebble spit. On the other hand over the river cliff swallows live there. At the top and the whole evening screaming cuckoo sitting on a dry tree. Cuckoo correct – because the shouts correctly: cuckoo … cuckoo … cuckoo.
And there are there wrong cuckoo (or may not Cuckoo) – they shout:кy-Ku … Ku Kui!
For dinner, cook potatoes found. Pour 5 drops, well Burhunu cork.
Lights out in 22 hours. The night is warm – + 17 ° C.
In 0-35 heard footsteps. Past the tent took a deer. While getting out – he has already washed away. Dark sky and few stars visible. I went to the river, took a sip of water and then into the tent – to sleep on. In the morning we looked deer tracks from the shore to the water and back again.
Parking: N 53° 26,491′ E 113° 18,971′ H 839 m. S 546 km.
The day passed 44 km.
Tuesday, July 5, 23, a day’s journey
Map N49-24
7-30. Got out, washed, he made a fire and cooked a sip of coffee. In the morning sunny. Isle today less. Heat + 19 ° C. For breakfast is the ear of yesterday’s pike and perch 2, which caught the late afternoon. Well, a little fry fillets.
8-43. I append blog and start to gather.
10-30. Exit through the 1.5 km first shivera.
Point 027: N 53° 26,814′ E 113° 19,739′
And after a while – after a series of Shiver confluence left r.Mariktakan – from 028 point to 032 point:
Point 028: N 53° 27,405′ E 113° 22,020′ Н 832 m.
Point 032: N 53° 28,361′ E 113° 22,920′ Н 829 m.
And in another 1.5 km before the ruins of the base Kurlyktar.Kurlukta) – Shiver series.
Point 033: N 53° 28,445′ E 113° 24,406′ Н 827 m.
This is the hardest, level 2+ grade. Then, to the point of 036 – easier. 033: N 53° 28,445′ E 113° 24,406′ Н 827 m.
This is the hardest, level 2+ grade. Then, to the point of 036 – easier.
Point 036: N 53° 27,832′ E 113° 25,963′ Н 819 m.
And another one:
Point 038: N 53° 28,576′ E 113° 28,896′ Н 813 m.
Well, small rapids and simple Shiver I did not note – a lot of them, and they go without straining. I note more or less important, are worth paying attention to, if you go on a kayak.
Around 13 o’clock we met a group of Miass – 2 persons, two of Vladimir. Go on to the bridge and Romanovka BAM at normal fishing inflatable boats, but with paddle. All cargo is attached to the bow of the boat and covered with the opposing waves. On this route are fused for several years and that’s all they know. Go slowly, a lot of time. Go fishing, relax. Few dictate us valuable information, and Irina has recorded in his diary.
Then they overtook us when we are in the 14 hours began to bite and I pasted the kayak. Prior to this, on a pebble caught Shiver (and they then evil and sharp), and caught a small hole near the keelson. Then again caught Vladimirov about 18 hours – they became the parking lot.
Closer to 20 hours reached r.Konda. The water in it too little – solid Kamenyuki. A photo.
Pulled the clouds and start to rumble. Send down a bit and started to LB. Only the camp, as the small rain went. Dinner is ready in the rain. The 22-hour lay down to sleep. And the rain and walked most of the night.
Parking: N 53° 30,152′ E 113° 32,869′ H 803 m. S 586 km.
The day passed 40 km.
More detailed photos №5 here
Wednesday, July 6, 24 day’s journey
Map N49-24
In the morning light rain drizzling, but then temporarily stopped and gave prepare breakfast. Yesterday, the day caught one healthy and one soup pike, Lenca and several okuney.Tak that today we have fish and fish soup and fry. By 10 o’clock the rain stopped, even occasionally peeking sun. But overcast and clouds running, by 11 o’clock the wind rose. We roll up and move on. Wind counterclaim and all amplified.
To the mouth r.Inguri meet several Shiver:
Island: N 53° 30,618′ E 113° 36,464′ Н 804 m.
Point 039: N 53° 30,817′ E 113° 38,623′ Н 803 m.
Point 040: N 53° 32,101′ E 113° 40,750′ Н 801 m.
Point 041: N 53° 32,506′ E 113° 40,930′ Н 794 m.
Before the river Ingur made snack. On the left at the beginning of a large field (at the beginning of the former village Inguri) in birch lesochke- fishing park. Table, fireplace, traces of all-terrain vehicle. It is seen that frequently visited place. From the village there was nothing left. A small pile of logs prepared to export and 2 old larch. In one recently hit by lightning and turning the trunk, like a big flower. Samu Inguri river is not found – the bushes did not want to climb, and the water is not seen – apparently dried up this summer. After r.Ingur Shiver until the evening was not only simple rapids. After a snack, the wind dropped, then parrots the rain and the wind blew with renewed vigor and, of course, right in the forehead. Rowing, fighting, enjoy the surrounding views. For the mouth of r.Taloy before the island, on the right bank of the hut there.
Coordinates: N 53° 35,806′ E 113° 47,006′
We went to rest and warm up. Host name Yuri – came to the hay until it occupies the house. I gave him 5 pieces. tees for the spinners.
Time to 20 hours – passed another 9 km and became the parking lot. The rain broke, but quickly stopped. On the road we caught 2 pike 58 and 62 cm and 40 cm of perch at. Tent, wood, fire, fried pike, dinner. 5 drops – the day was heavy and cool exhausted. All the time go against the wind.
Parking: N 53° 37,537′ E 113° 53,005′ H 787 m. S 627 km.
The day passed 41 km.
At night there was a fog, heat + 17 ° C.
Thursday, July 7, 25 day’s journey
Map N49-24
7-30. The sun, the sky is blue, not yet hot. Conventional, measured and rolled morning chores. Irina fries big pike, and I started kayak. Plastered with a couple of small holes. Then breakfast and taxes.
In the 11-20 out. Water comes from Vitim little rain. Yesterday, 10cm, 15cm today.
Rises headwind, but not as strong as yesterday. Before r.Yumurchen on the left bank of the rock we saw at the cross shore. And around the corner, at the mouth of the Yumurchena – in the water a large rock, and on top of a white cross set. On the banks of the Vitim now met three times in the hut, we went to see sfotat and stretch your legs at the same time. Well, after all there is only entertainment and human footprints. See the huts device on life, on the environment. Well, the same people can be found.
Go ahead – long stretches, rolls. On the banks are increasingly comes birches. Irina had prepared a bunch of birch bark for kindling and shoved it into the case with bowlers and perekusochnuyu bag. Thrifty … Well, in principle, right, with birch bark is very easy and quick to make a fire, even in the rain. Fishing does not want to deal with today, pike and perch 3 was released, it took only one Lenca for pickling.
Before r.Nilhisya on the map marked cabin, though not on the beach, and a little farther. With water, immediately after the island, we did not notice it. We decided to walk and find using GPS. We went on a tour. Hut found at once – unerringly brought Navigator.
Gone little lake, and behind him came to the hut and accurately. 300 Meters from the Vitim. The cabin even tried blueberry jam on a spoon. Placed on a table in the bank.
Log hut: N 53° 43,803′ E 114° 05,193′
A little moved – even the hut on the left bank can be seen the smoke and people. They went out. The shepherds, grazing horses.
We treated us to tea. We talked for life. They complain that it is not profitable to work in agricultural cooperatives.
Last year run, and then run away. Loans and banks have quite the throat – do not earn much, and how many should stay. They begged me tee and trolling.
Log hut: N 53° 44,100′ E 114° 06,474′
The time to 20 hours, it’s time to get to the parking lot. Gone are the big island on the right channel, a long time could not find a place to camp. Steel already in 21 hours.
Parking: N 53° 44,263′ E 114° 11,641′ H 762 m. S 673 km.
The day was 47 km.
More detailed photos №5 here
Friday, July 8, 26 day’s journey
Map N50-19
We woke up about 7 hours outside of heavy fog. Breakfast and immediately begin collecting camp. We are 3 km from the MTF. Bugunda, the stories of yesterday’s shepherds, 3 families living there, and you can buy them milk.
8-38. Append blogs and leave. After 0.5 hours seemed Bugunda. Before the houses jumped on the small roll – I had to leave the kayaks and canoes to hold hands. Bailiff in the house with satellite dish (this payphone installed here). Here bought 1.5 liters of milk and a jar of cream for 100 rubles. Living 3 family, used to be a farm, now it destroyed the rulers, were separated, and the sense is not given. On the outskirts of visible pieces of abandoned farm machinery.
Go ahead. From 14 to 15 according to the plan we have overshot. Sour cream here is so thick and yellow, that it should be spread on bread like butter. Milk 2 cups and bread with sour cream. During snack we still caught up with cloud and rain livanul – had to put on coats and capes. And all calmed down and by the end of snacks.
In the morning, pulled by a spinner on the track, but only the beginning of the bite after 16 hours. First pecked small pickerel. Then spinning – 3 perch. Irina pulled spinning his first big perch – 32 cm!
All day long on the river plёsy wind on the forehead and a little rapids. Cloudy, rain broke twice. Several times swim – the water is relatively warm.
In the evening began at the parking lot on the right bank in the 19-20, 10 km to the d.Krasny Yar.
Parking: N 53° 53,220′ E 114° 34,758′ H 743м S 715км
The day was 47 km.
Saturday, July 9, 27 day’s journey
Map N50-19
7 am, the fog and overcast. Before 8-30 there is no sun, the temperature of + 17 ° C. In the morning I smelled the smell of smoke and burning taiga litter. First breed fire – boil some coffee. Drink salty Lenk. Then Irina engaged breakfast, and I dug in maps and descriptions, and then pee diary and began to turn off the camp. Today, let us enter the d.Krasny Yar – can buy more then milk. In 2 handles over pasta – much translate into blogs.
1.5 hours later, after the release was near the village. Irina bought 1.5 liters of milk, a jar of cream and was presented with a more loaf of freshly baked white bread. Thank you good people!
Just outside the village on the left bank of the red rocks. A photo. We stick to the left bank right behind them and made a snack – a mug of warm milk and white bread.
After 5 km on the right bank noticed barn beside it a pole with a cone like on the ground. Bailiff look. Upstairs, along the shore directly on the grass marked the runway for light aircraft. Maybe once and flew. And in this booth were box office and waiting room … with customs.
Just downstream – Monkova Island Spit. Behind it landed on the right bank in the sand and swim. Hot. On the horizon, a cloud appeared and began to rumble. We went for a turn and I saw the creek with grass – there should be a pike! I leave the turntable along the grass. 4 small pike and perch a couple. Already we are going to move on, well, I think, the last throw – far back. Then enough healthy hychnitsa! And I have a fishing line 0.22. And spinning arc, and can not take the paddle. Irina my cries did not understand until unfolded until razrulit … climbed into the grass kayak … Pike slipped under the grass and tore trolling … Much was just the four minnows in comparison with it. But I saw her – the water is clear! Baubles sorry … catchability was green.
15 hours – began to eat. Only had time to eat, like a heavy wind blew, drove a wave.
We had to kayak to almost half of the pull on the beach. They draped coats and wait a bad weather. Clean the fish caught, in order to save time. I took spinning and even walked along the beach – nothing. Irina left to collect items after a snack.
I relied on her beach is not checked. And she, too, looked attentively all. As a result of my flip flops on the beach and so remained. Then in the evening they will last, I remembered where change shoes into boots.
Go ahead. Even closer to 19 hours flew into a nasty Shiver.
The narrow space between the slash from the right bank and left rocky. The flow rushes into a narrow passage between the rocks. The output 2 polmetrovye pits, shafts, then another strip of random trees, slanting shafts to the left of the big Kamenyuki near the shore, and a large tree on the right oblique. Gone on the machine, though wet pants and drank a water in a kayak. Relax, so …
If I could have pulled the skirt. Already that day plёsy yes rapids, nothing interesting occurred.
The coordinates of this Shiver after passage: N 53° 58,930′ E 114° 55,619′
This is the first serious slate after slate before r.Ingur.
By evening, rolls of steel harder and toothy – any pebble and rocky.
We got to the next sharp turn, this time to the right (usually turns namyvaet decent pebble or sand bars). Normal nice and smooth pebble spit – a great place for tomorrow’s day’s rest. And here with parking once the stress is not recommended to yawn. Here and disembarked. Camped. And then it was discovered missing slap. They are so comfortable to run on the beach, and swim – do not lose.
Well – tomorrow we will solve the problem. In the meantime, cooked dinner, drank a cup of tea and lay down to sleep.
Parking: N 53° 59,767′ E 114° 56,813′ H 732 m. S 751 km.
The day passed 36 km.
Sunday, July 10, 28 day of the journey. Day of rest
Map N50-19
8 a.m. In the morning I make a decision – to go for sneakers in place snack. According to rough estimates – is 8 km away. Well, sort of close and – I run, anyway dnevka. And Irina herself cope with household chores. The weather is sunny and warm. He took the camera, navigator and went 10-10. Initially I am walking along the beach easily. Photographed yesterday Shiver. After a while it started to rain, then I went into the shower. And I do not take clothes – in a blouse with short sleeves and rubber boots. Just wet. In slippery stones to go – I went upstairs and took a little game trail along the shore. Then somewhere strayed, he went on marshy hay. Startled deer. I tried sfotat – but the unit slowly brings sharpness and quickly jumping deer. Nothing succeeded. I understand that far from leaving the river – had to fight right through through the bushes and fallen trees. I do not like it, just continue walking along the shore. Along the way I came across a couple of huts, which yesterday did not see from the water.
Hut on the right bank of the river at Talikichi: N 53° 57,109′ E 114° 52,008′
He came to the place of a snack at 15 o’clock, at the navigator had covered 15 km. Photographed sneakers, was about to leave, then I remembered that I’ll come after them. He came back and tied them to the camera strap behind his back. The rain had stopped, but still cloudy. Returning back, I reached r.Talikichi, went again into the hut, sat, a breath. Near found another old hut.
I opt ashore Vitim – look, there is a catamaran four under the motor. Quickly run to the water, waving his arms, trying to draw attention to themselves.
I scare people. Picture: – Runs from the taiga, bearded, wet, dirty man in a bog in blouse with short sleeves – but with slippers and a camera. And requested a ride … to the nearest corner. At first I did not understand and are wary.
Then try to explain that I am a tourist and go here, and the camp is far … and we dnevka and sneakers here … finally understand me and invite perching. Perching on backpacks in the middle, closer to the nose. The guys from Krasnokamensk – well, this is where uranium is mined. Go from Romanovka and the BAM to the bridge, they have a small motor. Go fishing, relax.
Shiver pass, a little flooded. I shiver below, at a depth of notice recessed paddle. Before turning to see Irina kayak, which abuts against the current. I have decided to meet me and came out to meet. They returned to the camp to the fire.
I drank tea with bacon. Few spoke. It turns out that Victor is living in my brother Boyarka on the next street. In Vitim it with his son. I write down the phone and the approximate address. Small world in our time.
Take a few pictures, we say goodbye. The boys slept us half a sack of potatoes. Thank you! The team topped up with petrol, the engine starts and goes on.
Irina me a little fed, given to drink tea. Then heated in water kettles and just showered. Irina day piled near the water of the stones stove for a bath, but time is about 20 hours. Protopit not have time. So today we will without a bath. By evening, the beginning of the coming water dramatically. Dragged the kayak higher up the tent.
I have now turned out not rest, and continuous running (15 + 6 = 21km), had covered on his own carelessness 21 km. Not inspected the snack before sailing, he relied on Irina. Irina instructed to assemble, and went spinning to leave … that’s got. Himself to blame.
I started to clean the solar battery and discovered that Victor was not picked up their batteries from the camera. I wanted to recharge and forget. I’ll have to get up early tomorrow and catch up with them. They were going to get to the weather station Hulugli today. Tomorrow, we catch up and deliver.
Remove all and subsided. The water all comes from. I put the label near the water.
Monday, July 11, 29 day of the journey
Map N50-14
6-30. Today, we get up poranshne. Coffee, breakfast, I parallel I turn off the camp, so that by the end of the cooking kayak was already practically loaded. Irina found one yesterday and this morning, several young aspen mushrooms – so that today we have in the breakfast soup with the first young mushrooms. The waters of the night came a lot more than a meter. Flooded my yesterday’s mark and a bath at the same time up to half. Kos almost all flooded, the water reached the grass and bushes near the shore. As we were then told on the weather station, known locally as the scythe “Dog mink.” We had breakfast and left around 9 hours. The course is quite fast – for GPS-going at 10 km / h. All spit and flooded shallows. By 11 o’clock we reached the weather station Hulugli.
At the right bank of the cost of the boat and our friend catamaran. Guys are just beginning to gather.
I give the forgotten batteries. We were treated meat – at the meteorological station of treated izyubryatinoy, share with us. Irina stuffed into kulёk 3 decent piece. Thank you!
Chatted, they tied the kayak and also went on a meteorological station. Greet, see express themselves and have a chat. On the way to go 600.Podhodim meters – 3 at home, farm, cows graze and horses huddle to smudge. Living there for 2 families, or rather, as it were, one large, because all the relatives. They invited us to tea. They told me a little about yourself. Along the way, it turns out that they do not have a computer works. I offer their services – at first just to see. Then it turns out that does not boot WinXP. We find the installation disks for XP and CD with drivers for all the hardware. Restore the system from the first attempt did not work, so just reinstall all over again – it’s faster. Moreover, there is already some work seriously. The system earned – everything is normal, find a CD with ARM meteorologist and install it. Debug did not, because the battery on the meteorological site and removed all the sensors are not working. Work on the old-fashioned way, all by hand. Yes, and maintain the whole system no one. I connect the printer yet – the old matrix, put the driver. And the printer has earned. A greater supply can not do anything – not where. But they are so happy. It turns out that not far away, in Krasny Yar, there are:
1 school,
1 teacher,
1 student,
1 computer,
1 Internet!
Then have themselves of the programs out there that will take and have put themselves. In the meantime, everything worked, and it’s enough.
I have a request to the tourists who read this report, and will be used to Vitim – bring your USB flash drive or a CD with software, toys, movies, books. Just a good gift for people.
Once again drink tea. Irina load on the road sugar wafers and a jar of jam. Thank you for the snacks we were a bit bored! While we were busy with the computer, I was a heavy downpour.
Good-bye, we come back to the shore to the kayak. Packaging, we pour the water after the rain and move on. The time is about 14 hours, and we still have to carry out normal day – 40 km.
Breaks down rain, then half an hour passes in a heavy downpour and thunderstorms. Packaging in raincoats, skirts and stretch the walk in the rain. Then the rain subsides a bit.
On the right bank, near the weather station, we meet the hut. At the shore is a boat. We rise to the high bank to the hut. Young guy with a weather station restore order after the invasion of bears. The dog growls a bit and throws himself on others – gets nape and thrown into the hut. A photo. We chatted a bit, and went on. Again, rain, rain from time to time, and for a long time … until 19 o’clock. Landfall near wintering Pnёva – water is not visible, and the rain to climb the high, wet grass is not very desirable. Yes, and cold on the beach – in a kayak warmer. There were up to 20 hours until the rain verse. Gone 2 Shiver – N50-14 on the map marked as roll Kazan. Two-stage, just behind the left turn of the river, location:
1. N 54° 14,003′ E 115° 17,361′
2. N 54° 14,088′ E 115° 18,609′
Gone are the second stage and began on the left bank spit on the stone – far away from the water.
Camp, dinner, retreat.
Parking: N 54° 14,288′ E 115° 18,864′ H 703 m. S 801 km.
The day was 50 km.
More detailed photos №5 here
Tuesday, July 12, 30 day of the journey
Map N50-14
7 am, crawl out of the tent. I look at your tags. The water has fallen by 15 cm and moved away from the shore about a meter. Cloudy, darts and a small short-term rain. Crawl into the tent append blog. Irina is busy at the fire. Today breakfast will be potatoes with meat of red deer. The rain had stopped, and I’m starting to gather. From pot obalditelnye odors. I drum circles around the fire and swallow saliva.
Heat + 17 ° C, at night it was + 16 ° C. Finally turn came before breakfast. Delicious!
They went out, did not have time to withdraw and kilometer as rain again. rolling in the shower … and for a long time.
We pack and go in the rain. In winter cabin Shipishka caught up with our friends from Krasnokamensk on a catamaran with a motor. They went out to chat and look at the the hut. Hut old and already almost dilapidated. Nearby is a device for hand washing gold – Butare. A photo. Rain died down, we go further. Met 2 Shiver:
1. N 54° 17,699′ E 115° 26,245′
2. N 54° 18,169′ E 115° 28,240′
Gone, and drew to the shore stretch their tails and the fifth point. Overtaken catamaran with engine and went forward. We waved. It starts drizzling rain. We stretch raincoats, packaging, and move on. In the course of seen 2 cabin, even baths. One was busy, but the people there were not. Before that, in the forest we heard voices and someone constantly shouting and running in the taiga. Apparently hunters chased the beast.
After a snack (usually from 14 to 15 hours) bit cleared and the rain stopped.
We went into the creek for the island and along the grass pike errands. One good and fat caught trolling, it immediately measured and measured – 62 cm began to clear, the sun came out, the clouds are gone, it seemed blue sky.. We start to dry out.
Became the parking lot early, around 19 o’clock. First, cooked milk porridge of oatmeal, tore it, and then start Irina pike fry. We do not resist, and even for dinner added 2 hot and juicy piece. Then Irina tried to leave the spinning – nothing great and the water is cloudy, do not bite. Once hooked on the rocks at the bottom – undressed and climbed into the water to save the spoon. Well, how else to learn not to lay down on the bottom of the spoon.
Parking: N 54° 26,485′ E 115° 45,731′ H 682 m. S 849 km.
During the day, there were 48 km, after the rains bears great.
Wednesday, July 13, the 31st day of the journey
Map N50-14,15
7-40. All routine routine – got out, washed, bathed, campfire coffee, then all the rest. In the morning was heavy fog, but has resolved to 8-30, and the wind has dispersed. I looked out the sun. At breakfast the ear of tails, heads, fins and remnants of the pike yesterday. Yesterday, when climbing in the coastal taiga in search of dry firewood, I saw honeysuckle bushes with berries. I’ll take a walk together after breakfast.
We ate soup, broke camp, dragged all herms to kayak and fully loaded. Then with circles followed honeysuckle. We have small – just for half a cup. Honeysuckle is already moving away, and almost all crumbled. We found a bit of berries of red currant. We returned to the beach, mixed with a spoon of sugar production and gobbled up, dividing equally. They went about 11 hours, maybe a little earlier. I do not have hours – Irina on his arm, but all the time to ask how you do not want. You can still look in the GPS on his neck still hangs – but somehow I did not think. Although usually I ask before going “monitoring time”.
Sunny and clear unfolded solar panel and charge on the go. After yesterday’s downpours of water in the river a little added. It carries well, going at a speed of 6-7 km / h, in the shallows of 8-10. The river is already wide – 100 … 150 m, go fast on the banks of the larch is already huge, not like in the upper – a dead match. And Birch has found normal. Increasingly they began to appear real pine, but mostly in inaccessible places where they were hard to get, and cut down. More affordable have long been cut down and sent to swim.
Fish all day is not caught, and the water is cloudy after a large rainfall. And naselёnka is near. When standing on a snack in r.Bereya, I approached the local youth team 6 people. 2-for motorboats, and riddled the entire roll. We catch 2 Lenca and went further to fish the next roll. Where here to catch something.
By the evening began to get involved in Vitim mountains – became more interesting on the river. Rocky shores, cliffs.
In the parking lot of steel in 19 hours. Do not pull on steel, because it seemed suspicious cloud and something there to rumble. Do not have time to put up a tent, it started to rain. Outlasted a little tent, then got out and began to prepare dinner. Climb along the shore, almost dragged dry wood, built a fire. Cook porridge of buckwheat with carrots dry. Dinner.
Then Irina something wanted, at nightfall, yeast pancakes – do. As she later admitted that she longed condensed milk. A condensed milk, is known to all – do not give out free pancakes! So I had to work ….
I did not interfere in the process of their stupid advice and crawled into a tent to write a diary, and then fell asleep – says Irina, and even began to snore. And the finished pancakes I have not had to try. And how many of them there are still hot to Irina devoured, still do not know.
Parking: N 54° 29,390′ E 116° 19,417′ H 660 m. S 898 km.
The day passed 49 km.
Thursday, July 14, 32 day of the journey
Map N50-15
In the morning, as usual. In addition, given that the condensed milk to tea c “night fritters”, which yesterday already dozharivalis by flashlight. Quickly and folded to 10 hours out. We now have an incentive – to reach faster to d.Ust-Karenga.
And by 12-30 bypassed Island 2 on left and went into the bayou river Karenga. Just up the river to the road on the left bank (spelling), which goes to the village. As it turned out, it was possible to go and the right duct Vitim, and at the beginning of the second island begins the same road. The waters here too much – coastal grass filled up to the bushes.
Irina immediately runs to the village – to her about 1km along the forest road, and I stay on the shore in a kayak. He returned 1.5 hours later. Brought bread, milk, cottage cheese, sour cream and jam. It was in the house of the principal. The products gave way without money – say, ever meet. Ask to see a computer – is not included. Irina, of course, blabbed about my abilities to animate every cunning electronics. Quickly drank milk with bread and ran. According to the story of Irina, the house once found, are already waiting for me.
The host and hostess – Luba and Sasha. Light is not, so Sasha drags extender and starts the engine. Look computer – is not included. I disassemble the power supply – fuse blows. Poor, usually fuse blows in the last turn. Is a thin wire and a fuse instead put “beetle”. Burns and “beetle”. We find out that one of the neighbors has a tester. Bring him to me. I am doing research on. Breaking through the switching transistors. Yeah … there is nothing to replace, need a repair shop or an experienced master.
Master is – no spares. We have to find another power supply. The school has one computer – drag oneself along the block there. He’s a little less power, but okay – so be it.
Includes – computer earned. Checking the system – everything is fine.
Luba greatly delighted – here she is all the documentation on the school. Study plans, orders, Office. He sits down itself and all the checks. Everything is there, and everything works.
He says he will soon come to her sister from Tyumen to her and they will order a new power supply. And this may give in for repair. A new block and put themselves. Tells and shows that much connected and fastened. Passed charge heavy rain. He waited until calms down and ran to Irina – as it there is one on the beach. She was in the old place, was not able to go up the river to the village, he returned. Well, okay. A little wet while fighting in the bushes along the creek. I am returning to the village on the road. I collect system unit, once all check.
Normal – runs. Once again, we drink tea. Sasha tells a little about the local life.
Ust-Karenga fairly large village. Residents at his own expense built the runway before here once a week to fly small planes. There was some connection with civilization. Then the authorities in the Chita Region has decided that it is not profitable, and flights were canceled. Although through the neighboring village of Vitim plane flies, there is beneficial – but already there Buryatia. In Buryatia profitable and not profitable in the Chita region. On the complaints and requests regional authorities simply stupid is not responding. Already wrote a letter and Putin and Medvedev. Without confusing – they have other problems … Sasha former pilot himself earlier this plane and flew, and now out of work, that’s when the school was attached to work. Primary school, 3 teachers.
Internet at school there – but now the holidays, everything is turned off. Electricity too is diesel in the mornings and evenings. So live. I write e-mail, saying goodbye, and ran to the shore. Irina has been waiting, sitting and fireman small fire. We drank more tea, loaded and moved on. We still have today and fulfill the daily norm. We say that a campaign with a need to take a portable radio workshop and a USB flash drive with a bunch of programs for diagnosis and repair. Or at least a small set of tools just have to deal with such cases.
At Stony Tunguska I also had to be repaired and the receiver, and the wiring in the house. And the TV to the weather station, potklyuchat to his satellite dish. Yes constantly confronted.
The matter is in the evening – and you can try to do fishing. We went into a small creek to leave the spoon. Throw, throw, then he snagged something. I thought for a log or algae. Then it floated that something big. Says Irina – come to the shore, on the grass.
Beach inconvenient, near to 2 meters bushes or turn around with spinning or run back out. I am getting a pike to the shore, seemed to fall out of the water. And a crocodile! More meters will. Irina yell: – “Help!”. She rushes to the pike, scares her. Jerk, crackling spinning, it breaks down into 2 areas, the line breaks. Irina catches pike, hoots into the water up to his waist – deep near the shore. Pike takes a spoon, a piece of fishing line and a spinning element.
Yeah … I was huge crocodile … undress and try to find the shore at the bottom of a piece of spinning. Uselessly. Negotiate the situation – understand that in the heat a little stupid thing.
It was necessary not to allow the cat to the shore, and lend it to roll over, to a fine place, but already there is output.
Well, blame themselves, have to regret later. Just pike today are more fortunate. Yes, and I’m to blame – it is high time to change the line to secure braid, since there are crocodiles live.
More this evening another spinning caught nothing.
There were up to 20 hours until caught cap suitable for parking.
We unload, put the tent. I brought firewood and do dinner. Took 5 drops of pike health. I got out of the mountains and a big full moon. Lights out.
Parking: N 54° 32,051′ E 116° 43,410′ H 642 m. S 944 km.
The day was 46 km.
Friday, July 15, 33 day of the journey
Map N50-15,N50-9
7 am, coffee, breakfast – all according to plan. In the morning I engaged in repairing spinning. Repair the tip, I put a bandage on the place of fracture. Then he found another place break – in thick link. Well, that’s for tomorrow. We must first find a jar of condensed milk, tubes for the band I have no more. Irina sews scraps of dead skin waterfowl mouse has.
He wants to scare the big fish. In the evening drags on a rolling stone.
By 11 o’clock came. Check the road bays. But a lot of water and at night she had arrived.
The water is turbid. mouse has to drag, trying different baits – nothing. The water reached the level of the bushes and places already flooded coastal grass. On the banks of a high rock wall replace one another. Gone Stones “Three Brothers” – a hefty 3 Kamenyuki in line Vitim.
In the 14 hours we began to bite. Wind came, then the storm and the rain came a little bit.
For the second day in a row because – from 14 to 15 thunderstorm and rain.
There were up to 19 hours. By the evening it was difficult to find parking. All shingle spit flooded.
We went into Delingde river – it is also without water, some solid stone. To twist in the mouth, leaving the spoon – empty. They put the grid and crossed the Vitim contrary to the opposite shore. Rocky Beach, but found a little sand, somehow perched tent.
Irina took dinner and I got remnabor and began to carve the tin on tin strip. It is necessary to make a bandage and finish repairs spinning. Irina, he is shorter, only 2.4 m, and it is much easier to throw a kayak. Wrap the strip of sheet metal break place, secured with tape, on top of a thin 2 mm polyamide cord imposed a tight bandage. Checked, I walked along the beach and along the creek. Throw normally, only spinning is not fully formed. But this will have to somehow tolerate.
By 21 o’clock dinner, we went to the front of the mouth and took Delingde grid. Empty.
They put her in her bra near the camp. Even he fiddled with spinning – braid wrapped on a spool.
Lights out. At night there was a big moon and fog.
Parking: N 54° 47,960′ E 116° 55,207′ H 606 m. S 994 km.
The day was 50 km.
More detailed photos №5 here
Saturday, July 16, 34 day of the journey
Map N50-9
7-30, no more coffee – ended. Irina prepared cocoa. To deal with maps and descriptions. Before r.Kalakan little more than 50 km. Can we reach today – tomorrow dnevka plan. While we are going normally and on schedule. During the night the water came, walked along the beach to the tent m 2, and at a height of about 30 cm. And coming. Check and remove the net – 1 perch and perch caught Malyavka. Okay – enough to soup … for the smell and the rest add potatoes. Especially because a lot of potatoes – thanks to the guys from Krasnokamensk, otsypali decently.
We have breakfast and leave. The weather begins to deteriorate, rumbles in the distance. On the way, we try to fish – check all flowing streams. Although the rains have been good, there is no water in them. And fish too. Rivers Siikta, Olgonda, Chaschevitaya – dry, not in the mouths of fish.
By lunchtime downpour fell under the sun. There is a very rare phenomenon – the rainbow ring.
Rainbow is the sky, and then continues in a spray of water bounces off the surface of the Vitim and goes to the bow and stern paddle. It turns out that a kayak is included in the rainbow ring. and is a continuation of it. Well, we are in the ring of the rainbow, of course. We sat open-mouthed.
Forget about the rain. For the second time in my life I am watching this. The first time I saw the lake in Karelia Karyalon (Karelia) August 7, 2004 (see. For 2004 diaries.) Then we made a portage of Narvozera in lip Lambash on Topozero. And also got into the shower with a rainbow in the water at the sun side. On the one hand shower, and on the other hand the sun illuminates.
Rain so that afraid to pull out cameras. Then, when the rain died down, there was a double raduga.Foto.
Water in Vitim lot, go with speed 7-8 km/h and the shallows up to 13 km/h on GPS.
Spit all filled, with parking a little problem, yawn is not necessary – it is necessary to look ahead and not miss normal.
By 19 hours reached r.Kalakan. A little rose on it to the top of the road. Quays, went to the weather station.
Coordinates: N 55° 07,300′ E 116° 45,550′ H 598 m.
Few talked, drank tea. They showed me a defective car radio, but what I can do. Neither tester or connect to nothing, no speakers, no spare parts. She twirled in his hands and gave. We talked about fishing – say that the fish will go in the fall when the water gets cold. Then, in August, there will be good fishing. And now all the fish hid in cold tributaries. They advised us a good parking area – slightly below three kilometers, for the second turn. We say goodbye, we escorted to kayaks, it is interesting to look at what it is we are going to pass the thresholds.
Time in the evening, it’s time to park. Gone 2 the rotation – that she spit. The bath was one built, the fire is still warm, the sand is dry – there was no shower. As I understand it, recently I left the group to K4. Apparently there they had a room and a day of rest. So tomorrow we will stop for a day and take a break.
We unload. A little tired, so I propose once without breaking camp, a sip of “Admiral keg”. Irina, of course, does not object and immediately ready to forgive zakus – a piece of bread with lard, and I extracted from herms cherished bottle. Drunk on the sip of vodka – for the first 1000 km Vitim! In little more than a browser – 1055km. Vitim we still have 200 kilometers left little vain, the tension eased. Then slowly put the tent. Firewood, bonfire, dinner. Everyone is engaged in their affairs. We have supper and sleep.
Parking: N 55° 06,830′ E 116° 43,152′ H 604 m. S 1055 km.
The day passed 61 km.
Sunday, July 17, 35 day of the journey. Day of rest
We slept through 9, because no one interfered, and pain in the ass not sverbelo, and all there deer wandered along the beach is not. But then we found fresh tracks near the tents. The deer come to drink water. Well this is how to sleep that night, even the creaking steps and pebbles not hear! Looks much so tired and dryhli without hind legs …
And maybe I heard something, but then woke up. Because at 6 out of the tent to irrigate the bushes. Fog over the river was, I remember, I do not remember the deer.
On the morning of cocoa instead of coffee. Coffee ended.
Then Irina quietly preparing breakfast – soup from one Okushko. I brought firewood and started the diary cards and the remaining pieces. According to the descriptions, we are waiting for a fairly complicated plot by r.Bambuyki.
Then breakfast. Irina started a laundry, I heat the water, dig a ditch under the trough, drying rope pull. The fine work on the camp. Engaged in the current repair kayaks. I found another 2 old small holes. Stick a big patch over the old one on the right rear cylinder, which always worries me.
During the day the heat up to + 34 ° C, in a tent + 42 ° C. Swimming, sunbathing. Breeze, horseflies and other flying fowl is relatively small. Then Irina leavened pancakes, until the dough is suitable, brought firewood for the campfire and promptly inserted into the fire – pan to work well, we need coal, instead of an open flame.
Gone are the three guys on the red inflatable boat with a motor. But the approach and did not communicate – to see Muscovites. In the evening on 2 inflatable kayaks have been guys from Tomsk and Sverdlovsk. Also planted were not in a hurry to the parking lot behind schedule. Who’s trying to fish, throw on the run spinners, but something was not biting. We talked a little bit and they went on. It is said that behind kilometers in 2, is a group of canoeists.
But we do so with 17 hours and did not wait – probably somewhere in the parking lot began.
Closer to 20 hours a stoker began bath. Then they washed and rinsed in Vitim and a little warm up, whipped with birch twigs.
We drank tea with condensed milk and pancakes, and began to pack. Remove all in the camp, canoe overturned and lay down.
23-20, a retreat. Before r.Kalar remaining 56 km.
Monday, July 18, 36 day of the journey
Map N50-9, N50-3
7-15. The rise of the team. At night it was + 18 ° C, with the morning mist around the mountain, and we are in the shade, the sun creeps out only after 8 hours. They drank cocoa with pancakes. Irina took breakfast, and I finished the diary and began to gather. While I shove everything in Hermia and breakfast arrived.
Snack and about 9:00 left. After some time, we came to the rolling Byankinsky.
Coordinates: N 55° 10,681′ E 116° 35,620′ H 594 m.
Water lot, so we ride on a small shafts, followed by chaotic turbulence.
Behind him another roll – Eight. Just roll with our water level.
7 Kilometers another roll, Mindunsky. This is already more powerful and more interesting.
Coordinates: N 55° 13,897′ E 116° 28,230′ H 590 m.
Few splashed on the kayak. During a roll reached a rivulet Mindunka fishing.
Just above a roll before noticed a group kayaking – I stopped and wandered along the bank with spinning. Then they caught up with us at 14 o’clock on a snack and stopped for lunch nearby. Moscow – Saratov, the commercial team. As I understand the conversations. Chief, if I do not get them mixed up, Alex Marenzio ([email protected]) from Saratov. I invite him to continue to go hand in hand, and on the thresholds to insure each other. But understanding is not met. Chatted, finished snack, and we went forward. It’s hot, the temperature rose to +34 °C.
Then we fished in the creek before the rivulet Konkorin, and they overtook us and went forward. Before the evening we have them and not seen, but agreed that become near r.Kalar. On perekatike caught quite good Lenca and even pecked at the little turntable small dace.
Before r.Kalar cabin should be on the map. They came out and looked – was not found. But a little downstream stumbled upon a completely new the hut.
Coordinates: N 55° 21,805′ E 116° 17,063′
At this point the river narrows, along the banks of the stone slabs. In the direction from the Kalari at the PB nice and big sand bar. They went out and looked – decided not to drive further and stay here for the night. Water in Kalar much cleaner and more transparent than in Vitim – probably because of the rains. Disembark and do chores. Today we fish. Ear of Lenca and even slices pickled in 0.5 liter jar. Rush to the dinner, we catch up with cloud and severely rattled behind. But then somehow all resorbed.
In the evening, trying to leave the spoon in Kalar, attempts were biting, but nothing has been caught. They swim right from the plates.
Parking at r.Kalar: N 55° 21,958′ E 116° 15,889′ H 564 m. S 1111 km.
The day passed 56 km.
More detailed photos №5 here
Tuesday, July 19, 37 day of the journey
Map N50-3, N50-2
7-15. At night it was hot and stuffy, even though the tent is not closed, only buttoned mosquito net. Water in Vitim fell sharply – for two days, approximately 1 meter.
Early in the morning, 6 hours, near the tent shouting mad crows or geese nedorezanny. Raised neither light nor dawn. They got out of the tent, washed, made a fire. Cocoa with salted Lenk. Then Irina took the soup of the Lenca, and I became absorbed in the colon and drove a little diary. Ahead of the most difficult part. Then he ran upstairs to the hill, climb the surrounding area. I came across traces of a bear and a fishing net from the remains of fish. More precisely from the fish bones remained, scales and tails. Apparently the bear pulled the net out of the water with the fish, dragged her upstairs into the bushes and there quietly vyel extraction from the grid. A network has remained among the bushes. Visible trace on the litter as it dragged up the hill. And a pile of debris entangled in the net. I looked down and went to the tent. Well, bear lives here, but so what – here its territory, and we are at a party.
We had breakfast, climbed up the hill to the larch, where nailed plaque with the inscription “Reserve” – and yet there is something – something blah-blah-blah and No way. Hanged commemorative green ribbon. As a gift to the spirits of the Vitim and Kalar – and that we were here, in the memory.
Once again I want to say that all of these reserves – reserves are not organized for the people and against the people, only for “tough” boss, that in these reserves and outrageously, both in his personal fiefdom. And rangers, foresters and inspectors – staff, gofer and beaters.
9-50. We came out after a while – a large pebble island, in front of him on the right bank of an old dugout. And below the island, on the right bank, a large grotto in the rock. Got out, climb, look. A photo.
Parking in the morning is not visible after the first decent Kalar parking only at 17 km. She slept Muscovites – stones fire is still warm. By lunchtime we reached r.Tsipa. Few went into it – a lot of water, too, carries a garbage shore covered with water, there is no place for a snack.
We returned to the Vitim and steel on the left side just below on the rocks by the stream of cold water. Snack, rested for an hour – and beyond. Rain is coming.
After 0.5 hours – roll Kamennuy: N 55° 25,194′ E 115° 55,290′ Н 542 m.
We pass under the right bank, close to the island, avoiding the trees on the right bank of stones.
Before we saw 2 people who were on the left bank and steel opposite the island. Or maybe they just enclosed with. Passed half rolling and just behind the island left in the shade, landed on the island. I ran around the island, trying to dokrichatsya – what happened and why stand.
But because of the rain and rolling noise you can not hear anything. Just make out that everything is fine and they’ll soon move on. He returned to the canoe, pulled skirts, packed and passed the final part of the roll-over. Below the island left and right channels merge – there are large trees, and on the left side seems to be more. Pull back closer to the right bank – here for more powerful and it presses the central shaft to the middle of the river. Is pressed to the right bank, dodging slanting shafts from the coast, passed along the edge towards the middle.
Kilometers Vitim 10 out of the mountains in the valley Bambuyskuyu. The river widens, for slowing down. Before you approach the large island to the right bank, go warm up.
On the shore of the trees found fishermen equipped parking, where some group left a surplus of products in 2 liter bottles. Rice, noodles, shells, pearl barley, salt, etc. Take the bottle out of the pile of shells and some sleep half a bottle of rice. Thank you!
The second island. Vitim expanded 400-500 meters. We try to follow the mainstream – then for faster and less likely to fly stranded. Rain had stopped, cloudy.
Kokorevka – base of jade earners. We go upstairs to talk. Two men, the rest away, waiting for lifting water to rinse mangled bulldozer braid. We met wary even offered tea, but it never came. Few spoke. Photographed carnelian and jade piece. It is said that on the spit in the left bank many carnelian. We said goodbye and went to the opposite side to the spit. Irina burned to produce a bunch of cornelian. We wandered for half an hour, and, of course, they found nothing.
In the parking lot got a little below the braid for rivulet Alandakan on LB. I had to fight a high bank, but there is flat ground, fireplace – someone has already stopped. Upload and drag things up. We put the tent. Then kayaking up to the creek and put mesh. Then do firewood, campfire and dinner. Irina Cooks Point makaroshki-shells, then going to fill with fried onions. About 8 o’clock in the evening, just before sunset, I noticed that on the coastal perekatikah jets and jumping fish. Beach steep, for fast and should be deep.
I took spinning and went to try his luck fishing. For half an hour caught 2 large and 2 small lenkov. Then another major. Most do not even expect, and the place seems wrong.
But the fish probably smarter than me and better know where to feed more. Dinner and I climbed into the tent – back ache. Irina has remained clean fish. Then I do not remember anything.
Parking: N 55° 35,697′ E 115° 52,555′ H 546 m. S 1169 km. + 2 km. dropped out
(exhausted batteries in the navigator and I immediately grabbed).
The day passed 60 km.
Wednesday, July 20, 38 day of the journey
Map N50-2
7-20. Climb. As always, the routine format – Cocoa morning (due to the lack of coffee) with a piece of bread and salt Lenk. Last night Irina another glass jar stuffed 0.5l solitsya. Then he checked the net – and there is quite good Lenca 2 and 1 small grayling.
Fish today we have a lot. Will and ear of Lena, and fry for 2 pans enough.
Yesterday a large flax pulled sharply and broke off the tip of the rod. Here I shall add blog and loans renovation. In the morning fog, clouds sat on the mountains – overcast. The solar cell is almost not working. And then the rain came and drove the tent. As a result, only came to the hour of the day, after the wind dispersed the clouds and the sun came out.
The weather improved, the temperature immediately jumped to + 30 ° C. Sunbathe and swim. On the river met the 4 brigade jade earners. Basically, half drunk young boys searched the coast and braids. The hollow Bambuyskoy local people earn their jade search.
Gone d.Gulinga – there was nothing there, only the ruins. And it is clear that more recently was a farm. Gone r.Bambuyka, followed immediately hugest pebble spit.
Island Cheremuhovo, near the remains of a fresh motor boat saw the parking lot of a group.
We walked along the beach and found a little cornelian – translucent yellowish stones that glow in the sun. After Doluga Vitim river is drawn to the mountains, hollow ended, it began narrowing channel.
Near the river Talakan drew to the shore, pulled clothes, shoes sneakers and put on life jackets.
Secured more reliably all by kayak. Difficult part begins.
The first roll is a “Big Spit”: N 55° 55,232′ E 115° 54,055′
In our water – a narrowing of the channel from the spit and chute. Shafts not, all the stones are filled.
Perekat “Shirokaya Rechka” near the stream wide and wintering “Shamanskaya Partiya” on the right side, just have not noticed, we slipped by.
5 Kilometers through fast flow – roll “Raspopovsky”. Rolling the roll, but kayaking is fairly complex threshold.
I give the name of the map on the scale of 2 kilometers 200k–n50-02.gif, which is downloaded to the campaign site www.poehali.org, when he was still very popular among tourists. It is a pity that he died, and all materials raked insolently commerce.
On the left is a long boulder spit, which presses the Vitim to the rocky right bank. A small turn to the left. And the bulk of the water and the main shaft at the right bank – and to us it is advisable not to fly. Near the spit at the entrance underwater view large boulders – there is a strong emotion, and from them is oblique to the center of the shaft.
We go by the language center on the left and leave the boulders back, then break through in the middle of the oblique shaft and go left to the Spit.
There are random shafts of 0.5 to 1.0 meters. But to go further to the right that you do not want, we are pressed to spit. I chatted a couple of times and lashed by kayak. At the end of the Shiver on the left bank of a huge sand bar – a great place to stop.
The time is 21-30, so here and become for the night. Upload, change clothes to dry.
Campfire, dinner and hang up.
Parking: N 55° 58,669′ E 115° 48,034′ H 518 m. S 1224 km.
The day passed 53 km.
Thursday, July 21, 39 day of the journey
Map N50-2, N50-32
7-30. Breakfast. To deal with a few descriptions of the most complex site zavershayushego Vitim to ASB Bridge. I read horror stories myself looking for some. Irina try ahead of time not to disturb. Packed in the morning to complete the form, even life jackets in the morning stretched. Irina makes inflate the life jacket more. Spinning dug deeper, spinners removed. Hermas linked double rope. I do not leave it on top.
At 10 o’clock came. Just around the corner to the right begins Verxne-Tuzulinskaya shivera.
In our water – just narrowing the channel and increasing the flow rate. Shafts not. Is calm.
After 0.5 hours – Nizgne-Tuzulinskaya shivera. This is already powerful. Water we have about average, but continues to fall already the 3rd day. Shiver pass closer to the left bank. The main stream and trees are in the middle. Under the left bank of the calm passage.
Coordinates p.055: N 56° 00,780′ E 115° 46,659′ H 507 m.
Then an hour Vitim calmly bears at a speed of 10-13 km/h. Before r.Tuldun (N50-32 card) first against the backdrop of high mountains there is a pyramidal mountain. As a small man-made pyramid. When they came closer, the pyramid is shifted to the left, the left seemed Tuldun river with transparent greenish water. The color of water is very different from the color of the water in Vitim. Then before the end of the spit water color is different.
Immediately after the confluence Tuldun begins spit and roll “Tulunskoye shivera” (as indicated on the map).
In line Tuldun seen large stones on which is oblique to the middle of the shaft Vitim.
Gone from the center of crossed oblique shaft and went left into the green water close to the the spit.
So on it and slid down to the end of the spit. Main shafts remained under the right bank. For the left oblique seen one house, although there has to be an abandoned construction camp Mokskoy GES with the symbolic name “Mnogoobeschayushaya Kosa”. They have promised a lot and did …
The coordinates of the point 056: N 56° 03,443′ E 115° 45,005′ H 506 m.
The coordinates of the point 057: N 56° 03,877′ E 115° 45,501′ H 504 m.
Km 5, before turning to the right, begins shivera Sivak !!! (indicated on the map – “Sivinsky shivera”)
First, the left runs the stream – it is a landmark. Here it begins Spit near the left bank. From this spit are powerful shafts. We passed close to the right bank. Below spit Vitim makes a slight turn to the left, and the entire flow of water rushes to the right bank, is reflected from it and after about 100 meters from the first, the second creates a roll group. We were trying to get away to the left, to get around the lower shafts, but stuck in a chaotic jumble of chaotic shafts in the middle, and flew into the center of the lower shaft. I had to turn the nose to the shafts and to go ahead. Powerful shafts, about 1-1.5 m with a white screw cap on top of the foam.
But nothing jumped, most importantly – to keep the kayak. But the soul jumped a little heel.
The coordinates of the point 058: N 56° 06,143′ E 115° 45,864′ H 501м
Cap’s only flew when the shaft was in the face, it was a pity – so many years together. And do not look back, to see. But then, already near the bridge Irina found it. She simply fell behind, and then tied the tent and bag with food for a quick meal with a cart – here it is between them and stuck. I was very glad!
It began to rain, visibility deteriorated.
After Shiver “Sivak” river makes a right turn. For a rock on the left bank of the hut is visible.
Then just below the middle of the river we see a low gravel island. This is the roll of “Blagodatnuy” or Taksimskaya shivera.
The coordinates of the point 059: N 56° 08,088′ E 115°47,752′ H 495 m.
For the island at the bottom right runs r.Taksimo.
Since the water can be seen only the left hand, right up to the end is not visible. We were left sleeve, clinging to the island. According to the descriptions in the right duct is a stove and a waterfall with her drain. Somewhere in the middle, I looked back and saw the right bank of the bayou at something seething. But it seemed to me that the passage close to the island is still there, it just is not visible from above.
At the confluence of the river Taksimo was some group, far under the trees. It seemed to me that this was the one commercial group that has overtaken us. Rain comes in and out is not wanted – on an idea, today we have to walk to the bridge and can even go, if you’re lucky.
Here the river begins immediately “Ivanovskaya shivera”.
The coordinates of the point 060: N 56° 08,756′ E 115°49,893′ H 491м
Немного попрыгали на валах. Ниже шиверы на правом берегу видели еще 2 группы, которые до этого обогнали нас.
Next Vitim out of the mountains. The flow calms down. Seemed Vitim Bridge.
14 hours, we stick to the left bank just under the bridge below. Up goes the path to the booth on the mound.
Vitim Bridge from the satellite.
Coordinates: N 56° 13,248′ E 115°43,540′ S 1263 km.
Today took place the last 39 km along the Vitim.
Under the bridge there are traces of disassembling the catamaran, the remains of the wooden frame. We take out herms and kayak to shore.
It is raining slightly. Parse canoe and pack backpacks. Dry it will not succeed, so let’s go. By 17 hours to pack and went out onto the platform. It is meters from the bridge at 300 to the west, there is a blue bench and a semblance of platform w / w plates. Rain never stops. The local train at Taksimo 18-20 local (Buryat) time. On the other bank of the Vitim is another time – Chita. Cascading to photograph the famous bridge across the Vitim, which is entirely without handrails and without barriers.
Finally shows locomotive, which hooked one car and open platform. Kayak throws on the platform, because from it flows and drips, and themselves with backpacks climb into the car. Tickets 65 rbl. per person.
In 19-40 hours we arrive in Taksim. Irina throws her backpack on the platform and immediately ran to the cashier. That’s due to arrive train №078 Moscow-Tynda. I paged kayak and drag the backpacks to the building of the station.
In 20 hours the train arrived Moscow -Tynda, parking 35 minutes. (Moscow time – departure at 15-35).
Irina arrived with the tickets, is loaded into the car. We’re all wet, dripping with backpacks.
I’m starting to shove everything on the shelves, and Irina jerked in the station shop for groceries. I’m placed on the shelves, and also went on to the platform. Drum circles beside the wagon and worried. Finally, for 5 minutes before the departure of Irina arrives. Dragged beer, cookies and crackers, what time to buy. I pushed her into the car.
Send SMS-ing home – work here “Megaphone”.
Go. Dinner beer and 0.5 l jar of pickled lenkov. Brew in circles MacCoffee. There was parking in Shiver, but it’s technical, nobody released and the station no. We sat by the window to the bridge over the Vitim, waved handle. It was almost dark – lay down to sleep. A little nap in Char even went to the station and take a picture of the station.
Go us 8 hours before st.Hani (arrive in 23-55 Moscow time). We fall asleep. On Hani station arrived at 6 am local and I almost overslept.
(To be continued)
Source: Home diary Chugai Valentina
Part 2 diary Chugai Valentina
Translation: Google
