On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk – part 1: the river Vitim to Romanovka(2011)

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

Route: Kurumkan, r.Garga, d.Pod-Ikat, Ikat Pass, weather station Upper Ikat, Ikat lake, r.Ikat, r.Vitimkan, Ruzan Vit to w/d BAM Bridge, transfer to st.Hani, p.Hani, r.Olёkma, Lena river to Kachikattsy, hitchhiking to st.Neryungri.

Diary of a hike – the river Vitim to Romanovka ch.I

The first 500 km.

How do we get to Vitim.
7 … 12 June 2011

History after hibernation usual and standard over the past few years. Asking with others – who owes what to whom and why is required. At work, at the beginning of the year, when they began to share the holiday, he said to me did not take into account – I will retire. In these games I do not play. People tried to be indignant, how well – you sum up the team … Well, I do not reach – I fired from the 1st of June. Like this? We afford it can not, but you are quitting … And if you do not take back ?! I’m not worried. Pension drips (I’m still 58 years old). Anyway, once the moment will come that will have to do without the work. Well, not without a job, and if more precisely – work for someone.

Slowly squabbling subsided, 2 weeks gave a statement on the dismissal and from June 1st come to grips with the preparation. All – until September free. Before that, during this month I bought a ticket to Moscow, and Irina – 2 tickets from Moscow to Ulan-Ude.

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

In my spare time I earn route. Initially we planned to go all the Vitim Lena continue to Yakutsk, but there Vitimsky Reserve. Correspondence with the director of the reserve Vitimsky Chechetkina LG … I will not comment. The attempt to impose a “mythical tour services.” Fee for air. Who cares – can be read here.

You could of course go so, but choose the best and the more difficult option of moving to the river Hani (also rarely visited) and further on to the Lena r.Olёkma further. Irina does not object, the more difficult it – the more interesting.

Preparing map 2km. to fly the route. This year we will have a satellite navigator Garmin Dakota 20, which allows you to fill raster topographic maps in it. But in addition to the electronic version of the card is printed on a laser printer has a black-and-white 2 kilometrovki entire route. Well, you never know, Navigator and others. Electronics also have to be charged, and the paper will be in reserve.

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1Bold point, where possible mobile telephony.

Rough estimate of the distance to kayaking:
1. Ikat -50km
2. Vitimkan -50km
3. by r.China to s.Dzhilinda 130km, there a shop
4. the Romanovka to 400 kilometers, there is a large store
5. s.Romanovka- Krasny Yar – 235 km a shop
6. Krasny Yar – r.Kalar – 365 km
7. Before the bridge Vitim 150 km
======
all along the river Vitim 1250 km
—————————————
8. r.Hani – 80 km
9. r.Olekma – 562 km
10. Lena river – 500 km
—————————————
Total: 2 452 km.

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1
In Vitim decided to throw in the upper most – where r.Vitimkan merges with r.Chinoy turns itself Vitim River. We chose the hard way of getting to – from the Barguzin valley along the rivers Garg and Under-Ikat Ikat through the pass (1450m) Ikat on the lake. Well, and after that just – it follows from lakes Ikat river, which flows into the r.Vitimkan.

The most difficult – is to move with a backpack and kayak through the pass. Therefore, take the equipment to a minimum.
Products also to take only the first store – about 8 kg.

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

The Internet did not find description of this option to enter the Vitim. Gotcha old report of the Kiev group (№2069 1971), which started rafting from Karaftit village and throws to the airplane AN-2. The report on a hike up to Karaftita the Romanovka counted as IVk.s. Well, it’s been a long time, and it all depends on the water level. So in advance will not be afraid, take a life jacket. And we will be ready, at least morally to certain thresholds IIIk.s.
The plane does not suit us for financial reasons. By the beginning of the route we will go on foot, the more that has never tried to fight through the mountains.

June 7 villages in Kiev on the train to Moscow, the 8th arrived, moved to Kazan metro station. Soon appeared Irina, escorted her daughter and son. At 13-10 in the loaded train №082 Moscow – Ulan-Ude and drove off. June 8-12 road. We sleep – eat – sometimes go out to breathe oxygen at stops. Before Irkutsk tried to call dispatchers minibuses that go to Barguzin. We order 2 seats. One bus in the evening, the second in 14 hours, but up to Ust-Barguzin. Upon arrival we will have to deal on the spot.

On June 12, early in the morning drove past the lake. Dawn over the lake, on the other hand one can see the mountains, even in some places in the snow. We are trying to take pictures on the go.

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

In the 10-31 arrived at the railway / train station in Ulan-Ude. Upload, drag backpacks and canoe on the platform to the train station. Irina runs a minibus to look on the forecourt – the people on the train said that they should be. After 5 minutes resorts – there is bus to Barguzin and place 1 500 rubles per person, backpacks go free. Nothing – not sit on the same station. We grab backpacks and ran to the bus. Backpacks and kayak ship up at the trunk. I sit down on an empty seat, Irina first primaschivaetsya in the aisle on the mat, then the woman with the child shifted, and the three of them arranged on one seat. In went 11-20. Road tolerant – places the asphalt chunks, sometimes gravel road. In Ust-Barguzin on the ferry crossed to the right bank of the Barguzin River. Another 300 km to Barguzin went up 18-30. Driver razvez all passengers to their homes, and we drove to the bridge over the river Nesteriha. With his permission, the bus driver on the phone Barguzin – (mobile 89246575761 Misha.).

Download the driver left, and the first thing we walked along the river, looked around. It can be seen that the place haunted, exit to the water and a lot of tracks. Nearby, a little downhill, there is a big yellow bulldozer and tents – Brigade firefighters extinguishes taiga. At the top of the mountains, by the lake, one can see smoke and smell of burning. Today Brigade weekends and holidays and in general – they are resting. And let Taiga is burning, all will not burn out, and it is not theirs. The men are already “good” and even sent messengers to the village.

Drag and drop the backpacks on the other side of the road, find a secluded place, so that the road could not be seen and began to settle down. Put up a tent, lit a small fire, cooked supper – and sleep. Normally the night.

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

More detailed photos №1 here

Monday, June 13, 1 day hike

We woke up early – at 5.30 yesterday, the driver said that in the morning at 7 o’clock in the bus to be on Kurumkan. By morning, the smoke from the burning taiga became even more – but it is far away. I’m all morning looking at the mountains – but the fire did not reach us. Quickly cooked gerkulesku, bite, broke camp and went 7-10 on the road to the bridge. Here and local bus turned up – “Barguzin-Kurumkan”. Vote and downloadable. Little people, the ticket -145 rubles. per person. Along the road, on the part of Baikal taiga pieces svezhevygorevshey go. Mostly still smokes litter.

Around 9:00 Kurumkan arrived at the bus station. Today is a holiday, so the bus at Argadu 13 hours there, and only in the evening will be in 17-18 hours. Irina ran to the store and bought bread and bagels. I tried to Stop the car, but no one to go to Argadu does not want to, although they say that the road is good, passenger car will pass easily. Comes Irina, and we decide to go to the main track, as bus on a side street.

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1
s.Kurumkan

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1
Garginsky resort

Here in this hut and flows out of cracks hot radon source.
Thermal water source rocks erupting from fissures Ikat ridge, at an altitude of about 100 m.
On the composition of the water sulphate-sodium with radon content of 35 to 43 Eman.
Water flowing down the hollow, forms the travertine deposits, the original form. The discharge source is 5 l / s, the water temperature -74-75’S.
Hot water, steam comes. Hand hold impossible.

Few went and saw Irina Mitsubishi jeep which drove up to the court. Dima agreed to take us to the driver, but uncertainly, to Under-Ikat for 2500 rubles., But require 30 liters of gasoline to fill immediately. Suspiciously it seemed … well, the choice is not present.

Boot, we call in to the gas station and dressed it for 847 rubles. Before Argady reached quickly and with the wind, and then it turns out, Dima does not know the road … Here, a pancake. Pulled out his navigator Garmin Dacota 20, in which before a campaign filled 720 MB raster – genshtabovskie 2 kilometrovki with poexali.org. Then I show the way for the navigator. Good thing I tied them quite accurately. They arrived at the bridge over the r.Garga – there is no bridge. We caught before that another car – Japanese Land Cruiser with the fishermen. They suggested a ford across the river. The men offered to go on together, but Dima refused – in a hurry, they say. Returned back a little, moved ford. Road crap, but somehow got to Garginskogo resort. We stopped to rest and watch the resort.

Spa, as such, no longer exists – the terms of devastation and ruin. Water from a source hardly flows. We went upstairs to a hot key to the hut. But there’s much hot water. You can swim, but it is necessary to take the cup and water – no more. We returned back to the car. The driver refused to go further, such as gasoline ends on the way back is not enough. Well, of course … the road was afraid the car sorry. Well, to hell with him – gave him another 1,000 rubles and said goodbye.

Total before Gagarin resort we got for 1847 rubles. Before Argady 47 km normal road (local bus service) and then to Garginskogo resort has 30 km of the road really bad. You need a car with a good cross, like the UAZ.

Before we all pofotkat as another car drove up with old friends who met at the bridge. The driver Sergey povozmuschalis that we abandoned in the forest, not able to take to the agreed place and offered little throw – they go to the winter quarters. Threw backpacks and kayak on the top rack, top tie inflated rubber boat. Go…

The cabin 7 people – in close quarters, but not mad. Thank you helped out! The men go fishing, or simply relax in nature, periodically stop and “splash Burhunu”, and of myself, of course – the custom of this, we are also Burhuna respect and, if there is – it is also the cork, pour, him and all the local spirits. We refuse, today we still carry backpacks. Forest Road usual places trodden, and sometimes complete ass, blurred water. For bridges for a long time no one is watching, and the local fishermen, hunters, and it is not necessary. But somehow manages to travel, often we go out and go on foot.

The men are already “good” – trying to find out a few times, who we are and how it turned out. Re-acquainted. Sergey done – and masterfully keeps driving. Finally we arrived at the winter quarters – a small hut on the banks of Gargi.
Few Sergei sat by the fire, drank some coffee. Money he did not want to take, left him a bottle of “Pepper”, which was brought from Kiev. The men down to the hut did not go – fell asleep right at the top of the road. Say goodbye to Sergei, we shouldered the backpacks and stamped on the sly. Kayaks at this time I’m taking on a small 2-wheel cart.

Gone for about an hour – a half, as we are again catching up with old friends. Guys a little rest and uboltali Sergei to go further – to Marekty. Georgia once again and continue our journey. The road a little better, so we go with the breeze, even with songs – Irina sings cheerful company. In the evening we reach the tract Marekta – in front of a rather large pigweed. Guys say that all dried up, the last rain was in the beginning of May, would not otherwise travel. And so you can try on the lower road. There are upper, under the slide.

We are catching up another car with the Buryats – men, too, fishing and hunting. Few stood up and went to the winter hut, which at the end of the tract. A little wet, and even a swamp, but Sergei masterfully conducts the car. Just before winter hut men suit small race and Sergey bypasses UAZ and first comes to the hut. In general – have reached fun. Thanks to Sergey, and the whole company! The time is approaching 22nd hours, soon it gets dark. We say goodbye to the guys and go further along the road to the river Marektan.

Gone about 1.5-2.0km and 24th hours came to a clearing by the river Garga, where Marektan falls just below. On the shore meadow and big old trees, near their old fire. It was dark, get a lamp and break camp in the darkness. Bonfire, dinner tent. We put to bed as early as the 2nd night hours. Irina pulled two ticks – not terrible, it is to be vaccinated before going.

Up Pod-Ikata10 left Hiccups km. The day broke the 194 km, and it us very lucky!
Thanks Sergey again!
Parking Coordinates: N 54° 27.112’ E 111° 13.914’

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

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On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

River Garga and Ikat Pass

Tuesday, June 14, 2 day’s journey

In the morning sun, the heat, well, silence around the river only slightly audible.

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

After breakfast I took the trolley to the kayak and went on the road, what type of exploration. View the road, well, at the same time pull the kayak. It has been roughly 900 m – the road is normal, there is no swamp, go easy. He left the kayak on the road and returned to the tent. We broke camp and 13 hours to come. Come in 2 separate raids, approximately 0.9 – 1.0 km.
Slowly it turns out, but what can you do. Shuttles have to go 3 times more.

By 16 o’clock we came to a ford across r.Garga. Here on the coast we built a fire and had a snack. While Irina was engaged in the fire, I turned the canoe and pumped it. Then try to go against the flow along the river of string, if possible. Backpacks tied directly to the deck, not perepakovyvaya in Germ. Snack, drank tea and left. Pulled his fishing boots.

First came the fine, then went continuous rapids, the river narrowed, for strong and solid Kamenyuki. Hardly alone carry the kayak, spray a couple of times trying to fill in and flip the kayak. I had to let go of the rope and make a second attempt. Go slowly. By 20 hours reached the river closer to the road, there is a shed marked on the map.

In fact, there hut. They pulled out all the things to the house. On the threshold of the water in a kayak drank a little Podmokly perekusochnaya bag, which was bread, biscuits, bagels. Do not worry – be dried and eaten.

We put up tents near the hut. In the hut did not want to spend the night – there are lots of mosquitoes. Although smaller than the outside. So dinner in the hut at the table, and went to sleep in a tent. Because of the mountains to the east and crept huge bright moon – I tried to photograph her. It turns out bad, weak camera, and even better to have a tripod in such cases.

Then he found himself glaring at the Mite – twisted thread. Throws him the noose around his neck, and gently tighten the string with your fingers twist counterclockwise. Cauterized the wound with iodine and drank just in case 2 Doxycycline capsules (according to the instructions – 200 mg in the first 72 hours after the bite).

To settle down in a tent already dark after 23 hours. The day passed 8 km, 3.8 km and 4.2 km on foot through the water against the flow – also on foot.
The coordinates of the hut: N 54° 25.597’ E 111° 19.004’

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

Wednesday, June 15, Day 3 ways

At night in the tent was seven. We slept up to 8 hours. Unhurried breakfast, dries things watered yesterday at Gargi thresholds. The road along the coast can be seen dry and rolled – go on foot in 2 separate raids.

10-48 Writing blogs in the hut at the table. Here cool and not reach gadflies and horseflies. As soon as the sun rose and started to bake, they got out and began to attack. The hotter the sun – the more of them. They went 12-10 in, go approximately 0.8 – 1.0 km on the navigator, and then come back for the second part of the cargo. In the distance, with the Under-Ikat, on the slopes of the mountains seen sluggish burning fire, bluish-white smoke rises. We have been observed for the second day.

We got to r.Ikat – there is no bridge, power lines, marked on the map, too, no. The truth is sometimes met charred stumps of pillars – it means there was still. We saw pieces of rusted steel wire. Before the river overgrown with bushes.

At this point, the river is divided into several small duct. Took off his shoes, flip flops and pereobulsya in forded, based on selected drin. It can be seen that here recently passed rover – caterpillars tracks are still fresh. Once out on the dry beach before the village, pereobulsya in shoes. They returned to the river and scored 1.5l bottle of water. Homes are gone, you can only guess at the pits where they stood.

In some places the remains of foundations and cellars. None of the hut is no longer whole. The road goes east along the river Ikat, all the while gaining altitude. Gone are 5 km away and began half an hour to eat. Boil a cup of tea, chewed bread with lard and went on.

18-30. The road came close to the river. And rumble something in the north. We decided to stay here and not looking to tear the night. Water is, put a tent on the road – until the morning will lie. We put the tent and ran inside. Outside hot and tics 35 atrocities. A little nap. By 20 hours the temperature dropped to 27 and feisty fowl became smaller. They got out of the tent, engaged in preparing dinner. Around Dry, so a small fire in a rut and small.

Buckwheat porridge with dried carrots and tea with bagels. Then boiled water pot, and went down to wash away the sweat daily to the river. Dilute the boiled water in a cup of water from the river and poured in succession to each other. The water in the river ice, just upstream near the shore is still snow.

21-40. Already in the tent, write blogs – each his own. The temperature dropped to 19.
From the ford through Ikat began the climb – a GPS already 921m.
Parking Coordinates: N 54° 24.772’ E 111° 23.541’ Н 921м.

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

Thursday, June 16, Day 4 way

We got up early – at 6 o’clock, so that in the morning rush most difficult part with big backpacks, while not very hot. After lunch return to the canoe and other small things. Quick breakfast, taxes – and go 7-15.
Height is slowly growing. The water in the river to the ruins of the Cossack is, and then go under the stones. We are with a 1.5 liter bottle of water, so it is not very dependent on the availability of water in the river. Dear old, abandoned, sometimes completely eroded deep gullies.

Along the road there are the pillars of the old single-wire communication line. Post, an insulator and a conductor. Now there are none. Apparently it was a line at the weather station Upper Ikat. In some places the road pieces simply washed away the river – go straight on the bed, on the rocks. In some areas, the water in the line appears, and then goes underground again. So several times. Summer is dry, rain was not there, all the side tributaries completely dry – just a pile of stones.

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1The road to the pass Ikat

The last 3 kg before the pass – the most difficult, steep climb, approximately 300m. At an altitude of 1329m stumbled upon last spring before the pass – on the water on the way there.
The coordinates of the spring: N 54° 21.879’ E 111° 28.304’ Н 1329м.
From here to the weather station is 1.96 km. Finally, in 12-30 climbed to the pass 1450 m, there used to be a weather station.
Coordinates the weather station: N 54° 21.639’ E 111° 28.935’ Н 1450 м.

More detailed photos №1 here

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

Wander in the district – the ruins of houses burnt, the water source is not found, it should be the same. May was well or spring where – who knows … We decided to go down a bit along the dry creek, to the first water. Further to the east the valley opens to the tundra, sometimes covered with larch islands. The road from the weather station goes down and forks. One is left under the hill, and the second straight across the tundra and bog. Here on it and we went. While the left has to be drier and more easily traversed. But it’s only then it dawned on me. A 1.15 km of the old vezdehodke leading due south, found a couple of pools with drinking water. Here and stopped. Right on the road we have put a tent.

13-15. We did snack, a little rest. Freed backpack Irene, all thrown into the tent and closed it. In a pool of water gathered in a bottle, with a camera and took a GPS and lightly moved back. After 3 hours, we ran – down the hill along the familiar road turns faster. A little rest, and is packed in 16-40 went back with the second best-selling. The last kilometers were fighting already struggling – all the same for 3 times had covered more than 30 km, and 2 times with backpacks up the hill. Dragged to the tent barely alive in the 21-30. We ate a piece of bread and bacon washed down with a mug of cold water with the sugar and 22 hours have fallen off to sleep. The day progressed by 13.5 km and 40.5 km had covered legs.

Parking Coordinates: N 54° 21.189’ E 111° 29.572’ Н 1417 м.

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

Friday, June 17, Day 5 ways

Map 200k–n49-16.
6 am – the rise! Cold-7. Above a small swamp fog. Divorce fire, morning coffee and breakfast. From the mountains the sun rises, it starts to warm up dramatically and there are mosquitoes.
8-20. We finish blogs and start to pack. As I wrote, from the weather station to the south are 2 cross-country road, one directly due south along the right edge of the swamp, and the other picks up the left, closer to the forest and mountains. Theoretically, it should be drier. All the same, they both then go to the lakes and river. Ikat. The right road seemed shorter, and we went through it.

Come in 2 separate raids approximately 500 m, the average rate would be about 1 km / h. Then it became a wet bog, began to fall into the potholes, speed dropped. Yesterday, tearing the pass, new shoes stuffed legs, internal seams began to rub the bones. And the water in any way will not be saved. I had to gut backpack Irina and get waders and foot wraps. Pereobulsya – it became easier. Approximately 1.5 km dotopali to the creek.
brook Coordinates: N 54° 20.045’ E 111° 30.102’ Н 1384 м.

It’s hot, the sun was hot cool, the temperature rose to + 29 … 30 degrees. Slightly pull out the mosquitoes, gadflies and horseflies. Shrugs birch twigs. Around the marsh, moss, dwarf birch, sometimes islands of stunted larches, a lot of dead. Water for drinking take directly from the puddles in the swamp and small streams, flowing from trying. The taste is different everywhere.

About 15 hours made a stop at the snack. A little rest and we trudged on. The road through the swamp given hard, are exhausted. At about 18 crawled to the confluence of two streams. One flows from the snows on Mount Tovokko (2315 m). On its slope is visible round the crater – until it is about 4 km. This place is called “the tract Bowl.” It is visible in the photographs from space. A little farther from the stream directly on the cross-country track taking the place drier, a little trim bumps added moss in the pit – put the tent. Climbed inside and disconnected – wait until the heat subsides. We wake up to 20-30. In the east, a little rumble intermittently, but with the rain cloud passed. Slowly we cooked dinner, snack and took away to bed at 23 o’clock. Brought small a cloud, and even a little pokapatsya – but we were in a tent. retreat.
The day progressed through the swamp at 5.2 kg (multiply by 3, because it went to 2 separate raids).
GPS during transitions do not turn off, he wrote the track.
Parking in the swamp near the stream Komuch: N 54° 18.685’ E 111° 29.959’ Н 1364м.

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1Ikat Ikat lake and river

Saturday, June 18, 6 day’s journey

Map 200k–n49-16.
7 am, the temperature is +11. Writing blogs, then we’ll get out of the tent, along with warmer. Yesterday walked along a little creek Komuch. As long as the width and depth for the passage of kayaks enough, you can try to deploy a kayak. And what will happen next – we’ll see. We decided to try it. As it turned out – in vain, I had to walk to the creek is wide, but already there starting alloy. But who knew.
I reset the navigator. From this point I begin to write a track in one part of the route.

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1
Tract Chasha

At about 11 started, 300 meters kayak conducted properly, then began plot, much overgrown with willow bushes. Wade with difficulty, even had to unload the canoes and carry the shore. Then again carried herms 500 meters, and has an empty canoe was dragged through the bushes, sometimes propihivaya sideways. Then he got a piece of approximately 1.2 km, the normal water. Then another portion of the narrow gap between the bushes. Backpacks to pull away, herms little closer. Kayak had to carry a little bit along the coast.

At about 16 he ended impassable land, collected all the company’s shores. First were the kayak behind him, then rowing oars short halves, planting in small shoals.
After the confluence of the rivers to the left Broad, could already go rowing. Today, when one analyzes already traversed path, the view is changing. We had the 2 km still to go on the road for all-terrain vehicles, and then collect the kayak. And only in vain exhausted in these bushes. And time would be less. Once again we repacked the canoe and started a second time that day. Within 1km of the lake began Ikat – their whole system here.

17-20.V first started fishing the lake. They put a small mesh and a half hour left spinning. Marshy shores, silt, finely – not everywhere you can go to the beach. I caught one grayling and good Lenca. The net caught a large carp dark yellow. Dinner will suffice.
About 18 hours went on channels and lakes on, it’s time to look for parking at night and did not hurt to make tomorrow a day of rest – a rest after a hard transition. The lakes are a lot of gulls and different ducks. Gone are the long duct to the south, found a place to unload. A little furnaces, but no, we will understand. Camped, we began to prepare dinner. The main thing is that we got to the water. Then it will be easier. For dinner – the first ear in this campaign, and immediately from the Lenca and grayling.

Before that, opposite the camp threw the net, instead of floats tied his sneakers, flip-flops. I do not have time to boil ear as sneakers started strongly twitch and dive under the water. We boarded the “Rysku” (canoe was the name) – and to the grid. There are 3 healthy carp. No, that on this and stop and pull the net. So no – toad crushed, left the grid at night … on his head to catch problems.

Supper and ran into the tent – a day very exhausted physically, so that the knees are weak. Wonderful sunset over the lake. And in general – a place of beautiful lake taiga, larch range, directly in front of us Mount Tovokko with its round crater and snowfields on the slopes. Disable about 23 hours.
Coordinates parking on the lake: N 54° 17.081’ E 111° 30.983’ Н 1362м.
It began the military part of the route – 7.29km passed today.

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

Sunday, June 19. Day stay, 7 day’s journey

7.30. Temperature of +21. Began to feel the sun in a tent – creep out today dnevka and a lot of work on the farm. Wonderful morning. I looked on the net – sneaker that instead of floats, all drowned. There is something wrong. Okay, later dismantled, but first it is necessary to cook for sip some coffee. Washed, we swallowed the the coffee and went to deal with the grid. Oh wow!!! All net sorokovke clogged by large carp! Tighten, shook their – hang in clusters like grapes on. Grid greatly complicated – so easy to not get fish. I pull it into the kayak under your feet and go to the beach. A bag of fish – so we do not need. Up to 11 hrs and carefully extricate himself carp released into the water. Those who could not swim away – left. There, the most battered and dead, who collected 17 pieces.

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

12 hours – beginning rumble, then went to a little rain. Clean the fish, Irina took lunch. Fish soup and fried fish. Overeat – the first fish in this campaign, still not had time to get bored, she goes to lick fingers. Sometimes raid clouds roll in and the drizzle. The temperature rises to +30. Hot water in the lake is warm and stagnant. The approach to the water is bad, a lot of mud, but still swim. With the nearby lake gulls came, we looked at the guts, that left them on the beach, and flew away. Looks are not hungry and fish here all missing.

While drizzling rain, he climbed into the tent and lie after a hearty dinner, breakfast. Irina at the fire continues to fry fish. A couple of times broke the rain. Then continuation lunch, swam and climbed into the tent to write diaries and wait until the heat subsides. A little nap. After 20 hours of Irina crawled to boil a pot of water for bathing animals. Dinner – eaten soup, fried eggs and tea. Ruga, who eat up the last pieces of fish. Both fish glut oneself – is simply not fit. Then he washed the head, a little splashed. I Throw a little beard and mustache, and even for a week completely overgrown. Measured razmerchik his waist. Ndaa … I dropped from 112cm to 105cm, and it’s just 5 days, a good start to the campaign. Here’s where to weigh in, just for fun. The sun had set behind the mountain and immediately turned cold for half an hour the temperature had dropped from +30 to +21.

21-33. Remove the camp, tuck all under the canopy tent. And can be stacked. I have something all day weakness throughout the body. And his feet badly hurt – badly stuffed sole, when fighting with backpacks through the pass. Although it has been in the shoes. Altitude 1362m – and it can even affect the well-being, not used yet. Tomorrow begins a full day of running, kayaking, go out of the lakes on the river Ikat (which is east) and go down. Under the awning tents already 15. Lights out.

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

More detailed photos №2 here

Monday, June 20, 8 day’s journey

7-20. Lifting, breakfast and taxes. Slightly pressing the right cylinder in kayaks. I pasted the old patch and go 9-20. In return duct back a bit and turn right. This long flow, width 5-10 m, we must bring to the river. It appears a little over. Beach thicket larch, willow bushes.
We met a small hut. Then start simple blockages, once cut through with an ax, the second time through the log to drag on, the pre-log-house knots.

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

The 11-30 came to r.Ikat, on the right bank (IB) is visible hut, note the coordinates in the GPS.
The river itself here is wider – up to 30 m, and further still expanding. Soon the river goes into the tundra, on the banks of no more trees. Mostly only willow thickets.

By 15 o’clock come to the mountains, went solid small rapids. Rains normal for a long time there was no water in the river is small, rapids for the most part dry. Kayak until we collected without keel, so all the little places we pass easily. On the banks of the taiga begins – mostly larch. Many go on foot along the river bed, leading the kayak. The farther away from the tundra, and closer to the mountains, the less water in the river. In the deeper gullies pull the jet spinning. Result – 2 small and 2 Lenca grayling.

At about 20 came to the rocks along the LB. Many cameras clicked. They tried to find a parking space – but as long as the shore wet and overgrown with bushes. A little went and found the parking lot at the intersection of cross-country road from weather stations across the river.

21-00 At this point, and steel, it is clear that there often stop fishermen – hunters.
The tent, campfire, dinner. In the evening, at sunset, the temperature drops sharply. Clean the fish for tomorrow, all I removed under a tent. You can and relax. The day passed 31km.
Parking: N 54° 15.108’ E 111° 43.767’ Н 1334м. The total distance traveled by the navigator (S) 38 km

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

Tuesday, June 21, 9 day’s journey

7 am. At night it was cold – I had to get up and pull on a fleece suit.
In a kayak the water is frozen – ice shake. A little old glue patch – little poison right rear cylinder.

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

8-05. Breakfast – from yesterday’s ear 2 grayling and Lenk. Then do writings diaries, folding camp. The 8-50 left. Ikat is part of the mountain and begins a nightmare – no water at all, solid wood stones and streams between them. Hardly drags – to push through the kayak. 2 times completely unloaded and portages impassable places.

After 15 hours, it became easier, there was water and Kamenyuki become smaller. The closer to the outlet of hot, the more water. By 20 o’clock we came out of the mountains – was very good. Rolls – stretches – Galechka – sand. But losing much height. For a long time there was no parking, began to freeze, because the wet skid after the stones. In one place left to look Beach – near the hut, the dog barks, it is necessary to go a little bit lower.

We went to the hut – men arrived on a fishing trip, a number of network blocked the river. They say that in Vitimkane fish is not caught, because the higher working dredge and muddies the water. Landed, we talked a bit, and went on. In the parking lot began at 21-30. Wet head over heels – quickly changed into dry. Dinner and sleep. Heavy day was. Fish is not caught, and not before it was to be honest. The day passed 23 km in height down nearly 100 meters.
Parking: N 54° 14.285’ E 111° 53.643’ Н 1237 м. S 61 км.

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

More detailed photos №2 here

River Vitimkan

Wednesday, 22 June, 10 day’s journey

Map 200k–n49-16.
7 am – the beginning of a working day. After yesterday’s fights over the stones need to urgently repair the kayak. Pull out on the tank more than last patch on the bottom found 3 more small puncture. I sealed. Then, when they started to have collected at the bottom of the pieces found another 5 small punctures, and a large patch podtravlivaet. But that’s for later, until you can go and so.

While I was engaged in maintenance, Irina fry pancakes. By 12 o’clock came and went. Another 5 km away and r. Ikat flows into the river. Vitimkan – there are already 2-3 times wider and much larger body of water. Water true clay-colored, like the fishermen said yesterday. Come the first rapids and small feeble sills. We continue to lose altitude in 15 hours do snack, the height was 1215 m.

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1
River Vitimkan

Rolls alternate stretches, thresholds, as such, there is little, go all in stride. We got to the former mine reliable. There were some ruins and a pile of abandoned equipment. Sad sight. They went out, wandered. Scroll to the next horses and even one of the wild – but close to not let – rode away. The abandoned houses traces of horses – apparently hiding at night or when rain.

It’s hot, put on life jackets are not – nothing fancy is not expected. The water is cloudy, the fish and try not to catch – it is useless. Along the banks there are piles of gold after extraction.
In the parking lot became 20-30, short of 10 km to the mine Varvarinsky.
The day passed 36 km.
Parking: N 54° 17.811’ E 112° 13.766’ Н 1188м. S 97.2км

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

More detailed photos №3 here

Home Vitim River

Thursday, 23 June, 11 day’s journey

7 am, again I start the day with repairs kayaks. For some reason it does not keep the glue on patches, and in the heat under 30, they come unstuck. Or I do not give it to dry completely. Vozhus to almost 12 hours. Finally we leave. On the way to meet a man with his son – mordushkami catch burbot, they are now rising along the banks of the upper reaches. On the banks still are larch, but taller and more powerful than they were at the top. Before the village Varvarinsky seen as the plane came in to land, and then both took off. Apparently there is an airfield and fly more planes.

We landed on the forehead of the first houses, short of a suspension bridge over the river. At the top right shop. Sugar, flour, candy, sunflower oil, bagels. Scored products kg 7. In the village stopped at a local beach, made a snack. On the banks of Vitimkana many fresh dumps – is still mined gold, heard how the equipment. Water is muddy, clay-colored. After 4 km reached confluence Vitimkana and Ranks – on the river is called the Vitim.

We stopped at the arrow. Water in the rank it more and more widely, the water is clear. He walked on the spit, leave the spoon – do not be caught. Come on already Vitim. The river has wider – 50-60 meters, on the banks of larch. We saw the first small and thin birch. Come quickly – at the speed of the navigator places up to 8 km / h.

We walked up to 21-30, became the parking lot on the wind blown sand and shingle spit. We unload and immediately put the net. They began to pitch a tent – and then the grid is something zabultyhalos. We checked – a small flax. Then, until the potatoes are cooked in a pot, leaving the spoon and even caught a small bass. So for dinner we are today with the fish.
For once even missed already. It subsided after 23 hours.
During the day, there were 42 km, of which only 20 to Vitim.
Parking: N 54° 13.566’ E 112° 21.397’ Н 1151 м. S 139 км

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

More detailed photos №4 here

Friday, 24 June, 12 day’s journey

7am – rise. Washing, bathing, morning coffee. Then he pulled out a fishing net – empty.
For breakfast was buckwheat, which crunched river sand. Or bowler poorly washed or scooped water with sand, some tailed. No one has to date not admitted. All show each other crooked finger. 🙂 But porridge eaten.

Again, I am doing repairs kayaks. All did not do it with the right rear cylinder. Yesterday already unscrew the valve and through the hole from the inside tried to stick the patch. But, apparently, not very well. On the bottom I found another 3 holes – the load to 12 yesterday. But yesterday were already much faster. I put the pipe kilson. And before that, on the ikat and Vitimkanu went without it – small stones, of crawls.

10 am – we packed up and leave. Right rear tank grass – has become even worse than before the renovation. The second layer of glue on the old – is not that it will be necessary to remove the entire patch. So the evening and went, and I periodically Booster directly afloat. Before dinner spinning released behind by 20-30 meters a small poppers. Let dragged back water slightly brightened and cleared after Vitimkana. On the long Hustler rift swallowed one after another 2 good Lenca -.. 38 and 44 cm And after a small snack hvatanul taymeshonok 60 cm Then turned spinning – Today fishing is finished.

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

It’s hot, it blows south and the warm temperature of 30. We saw elk, which escaped from the gadfly in the water. It was the middle of the river and occasionally hid his head in the water. I slowly scoops and Irina managed sfotat several times. Greeted by PB few huts, but did not go. Rivers flowing into the Vitim all dry and without water – some stone deposits. On the banks still larch, birch and other trees there.
In the evening we went for a long time, still can not come across a good space for parking and tent.

Steel is already at 21 o’clock on the pebble spit – is a free massage at night. But nothing – razgrebli pebbles, lined the place and put the tent. Happy River were normal, only a few times out of a kayak on a particularly small rifts and performed manually. And so nothing fancy, no threshold is not met. Frequent shoals and Shiver, between stretches.
In the evening, long engaged in fish. Welded ear. Fry did not – left in the morning.
Subsided after 23 hours. The day was 46 km.
Parking: N 54° 03.372’ E 112° 01.363’ Н 1114 м. S 185 км

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 11

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

Saturday, 25 June, 13 day’s journey

Map 200k–n49-22.
At 7 o’clock we stood. Wood, fire, morning coffee. Then Irina took hot soup and fish, and once again I’m trying to stick the old patch in place on the container. By 10 o’clock all the work has been completed, had breakfast, and fled from gadflies and mosquitoes in the tent – to write blogs.

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

Although it is less mosquito than in the evening. Mosquitoes in these places live on schedule – in the evening with about 20 and 23, and then go to sleep until the morning they are not. And in the morning mosquito time up to 10 hours, until the sun begins to bake, or the wind will be.
Gadfly start to behave brutally around 9 am, as soon as the sun starts to fry well. They apparently batteries charged by solar panels. No good sun – and they do not fly, become lethargic and dead. In the evening they go to sleep about 20-21 hours, before the mosquitoes.

They went about 11 hours. An hour caught in the shallows a couple of Lenk. Especially not fishing – just the back of his kayak dragged popper. Then start to narrow the river, the mountains moved closer, the fun began. At about 13 approached Mariktinskim thresholds (Map 2 kilometrovke designated as roll Marikta). At first I did not understand it. Gone are the long rapid with a pile of stones in line, approximately III cc, then immediately followed by visible on the right-hander has a big pile of Kamenyuki and seen a large drop. HID angling and photo. Come without watching – even here to see it should have been. Approximately III sg at low tide, complicated slalom between hefty oblivnyakami in strong currents. I slipped on the machine, not even having much frightened.

The point after passing the threshold:
N 53° 57.191’ E 111° 55.890’ Н 1088м.
A little further another threshold, simpler, about sg
Coordinates: N 53° 56.354’ E 111° 54.969’

Well, it started on the fun. After Shiver “Deer” started sharply arriving water in a kayak. Few went and stuck to LB – emergency repairs. We unload, overturned kayak. Pipe kilson shifted to the side and we have passed over sharp stones. It was necessary to impose a 8 patches along the pipe kilson. Poor, when the tube moves. Allowance for about an hour. Finally the repair is completed, cargoes and push off. It carries well.
A little moved – chalet at the PB. We went, and left a note card is no longer required.
Cabin: N 53° 51.065’ E 111° 52.835’

Then we go up to 21 hours. Fast for small rapids, stretches between them. The rapids are not difficult, not higher IIk.s. But there is little water, and got out all stones – must be actively spinning between Kamenyuki. The banks are high, suitable to the water at the top only grow larch. There are lots of burnt forest, where the trees are blackened instead of “matches”.

21-00. Sprained nice sand and pebble spit here and stopped for the night.
And tomorrow will be a great place for a day’s rest – because Sunday is expected.
Camping. Bonfire, dinner, buckwheat. The fish leave for tomorrow – today a little upahalis on the doorstep, you do not want to mess around. Lights out.
Parking: N 53° 48.255’ E 111° 51.080’ Н 1054 м. S 223 км
The day passed 38 km in height dropped by 34 m.

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

Sunday, June 26. Day stay 14 day’s journey

8 a.m. Coffee with salted grayling … mmm – exotic! But try, Irina, too, spat, and then rasprobovali. We continue to engage in economic affairs – Irina prepares breakfast by the fire of yesterday’s fish, as I understand with maps and descriptions. Before the village of Ust-Dzhilinda, and therefore to the store, it remains 28 km. After breakfast, a little pee diaries.

I dug into the gravel trough for washing – Irina according to plan today grandiose laundry.
She immediately engaged itself. Just knead the dough and put approach.
Today we will camp oven bread, way, tried in the past campaigns – in the pot. Made of stone oven, then it was drowned, and at the same time bound framework for the bath. Stove melt down – turned much hot bread and a little burnt. Or maybe because is very hot (35 in the shade) and the stove did not have a great heat, and more often to check the readiness test. Well, nothing – bread pulled from the pot and burnt crust otshkryabal knife.

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

Irina at this time, all washed and hung out to dry on the rope. Hot – bath will do in the evening as the heat subsides. Before bath Irina fry traditional dnevki yeast pancakes.
We bathed in the heat, though, and the cool water, and hid from the heat and gadfly to the tent.
In the evening, once again drown the stove and do bath. In 20-00 climbed to wash, and then soared.

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

Rinse in cold right Vitim. During the day the water never got warm.
After the bath a little rest, then dinner – pancakes with condensed milk and lots of tea.
Bit of a hike along the bank of the Vitim and left the spoon – the water is cloudy, do not bite.

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

Monday, June 27, the 15th day of the way

7 am. Climb. I welded some coffee and immediately began to gather. Irina is preparing breakfast. Snack and 9:00 left. Shiver, stretches, rolls – go fast.

One rift poppers sucked into the rocks and he looked up. Hiking, wander around – could not find.
14-10. We got to the big village of Ust-Dzhilinda. It is located quite far from the coast – 1.5 km … 2.0. Irina ran to the store, and I wandered through the high open shore and scare gophers. Irina has ridden. Dragged bread, 1.5l milk, cheese, potatoes. Ran 48 minutes. We will ship the product in the germ. Send to a little below the first tree, so that would hide in tenechek, and made a snack. They drank 1.5l milk and white bread, a bit rested and went on.

Before the evening went only once – to see the hut on the beach and stretch your legs a bit. In the 21 hours we began to park in front of the reddish rocks. Tent fire. For dinner, cottage cheese and svezhesoleny trout with bread. He began to rain. The day passed 56 km.
Parking: N 53° 29,970′ E 111° 49,114′ H 1003м S 279км

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

Tuesday, 28 June, 16 day’s journey

Map 200k–n49-22,28.
All night drizzling rain, and in the morning, too, does not stop. Wallowing in a tent up to 9 hours, write blogs. Water is not coming. Around all dry, all the moisture absorbed by the parched soil. Finally tired of wallowing in the tent – to choose. Breakfast in the rain, going quickly. They went about 11 hours, the rain continued to drizzle and. Vitim flows over a large valley. Flowering meadows, sometimes a group of trees. There deciduous trees – something like poplar. The bright-eyed river – stretches and frequent small rapids. We leave and carry the canoe walk on water.

Drizzles to 16 hours, then cleared up for a short time, and again to 18 rain. Inflow Kydzhimit pleased with the presence of water. Spoon leaves – empty, the water is warm. Trailer Popper released. Just below, the passage of rapids, caught 3 lenkov (40, 41 and 38 cm). In the evening we went to the river. Alyanga and the entrance to the gorge Baysyhanskoe.
Coordinates: N 53° 29,970′ E 111° 49,114′ H 976м

Here Vitim cuts Ridge Baysyhan. Shiver, short plays between them. We met a couple of thresholds, which are formed due to the low water level. The banks are high and moved up close to the water, the river has already speeded up for. Go without tension.

20 hours. On Spit saw musk – which is jumping up at once on all 4 feet. Even managed to take a picture. Half an hour later found a good parking braid, sand and Galechka – here and stopped for the night. Camp fire dinner. One Lenca pickled, and the second and another small – in the ear.
Third cleaned and left for tomorrow. With darkness beginning colder – 15. Settled after the 23’s. The day passed 51 km.
Parking: N 53° 16,682′ E 111° 38,063′ H 970 м S 330 км

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

More detailed photos №4 here

Wednesday, 29 June, 17 day’s journey

Map 200k–n49-28.
We got up without an alarm clock at 7 am. Somehow it turns itself without any external vozdestvy. We switched to a natural rhythm. Washed, fire. coffee with a salty trout. Then breakfast – soup from yesterday Lenca.
9:04. Finish blogs, we broke camp, downloaded “Rysku” and went out. After 4 km out from the gorge Baysyhan. Immediately a large reach – the locals call it “whitefish”, on LB big and good fishing park. They went out and wandered around a bit – seeing.

Then begins the big island – bypassed the left. Behind it begins much Zaza River Valley.
On the kayak spread solar battery and I try to charge the batteries on the go.

12-10. We got to the weather station of Ust-Zaza. Go talk. Meet. Who works here Bateau Zhargal with his wife, there is another worker – but they are now out. We ask about Uncle Kesha (read the descriptions in the old). He has 7 years as a retirement, more than here does not work. Weather stations, as such, is already almost there. Only remains the official gauging station. Meteorological data is sent by e-mail 1 time per month. The water level is now 220 cm by 970 – the lowest in 7 years.

The owner treated us to milk, and we presented a book that has brought from Moscow and dragged all the time with him. We talked a bit, said goodbye and went on.

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

All day pulls a popper – once pecked and tore. So the whole day and did not catch anything. In the evening we went to Zaza valley and approached the top of the gorge Baysayskogo. First there are Shiver and reaches, the river gradually narrowed, laterally clamped fairly steep mountains. According to the description soon have to be Baysayskie thresholds. Near the confluence of the river. Habakty landed, shod in sneakers, put on life jackets, sank herms. After some time on the LB for the right turn showed the characteristic rock, which breaks off almost vertically into the water. A photo. We are approaching to the PB to the rocks and go watch the first stage.

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

Point 17: N 53° 14,403′ E 111° 57,582′ H 937 м
Water a little, but there is a narrow passage – fit between the stones it is possible, about IIk.s. We pass normally. Just around the bend to the left, 300 meters after the second stage, is more difficult. Adheres to the LB, look.
Point 18: N 53° 14,484′ E 111° 57,662′ H 935 м

Water is very small. Pass only LB. Water drops 2 steps. After the second pit of 0.5 m and a small keg for her. Oblique shaft on the left bank – do not forget about it. A photo. Life jackets pulled up and went.
Gone are honest, a bit washed over an oblique blade, but the skirt did not help to get water. After another 300m for small pleso next stage – just shivera at low water.

But if to pour the water, there will be much more difficult on these roads. In any case – the passage will still be on the left bank. At high water on the second stage from the right bank is likely to sink a meter waterfall so on 3.

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

Time 20-15. We are looking for a parking lot. But the plan lacks a couple of kilometers, so I miss the good parking on LB and slipped past. Well, as always, next to the parking lot there is only 21 hours.
During the day, even when walking through the valley to the mountains, we saw a raccoon on the PB, which is where it ran along the shore. At first he was attacked by crows and drove under a bush. He stayed there, then saw him again – purposefully swept through the grass along the shore.

In the evening, we landed on the sandy shore of the river near Baisa. Light dinner and hang up.
Parking: N 53° 16,316′ E 111° 57,626′ H 930 м S 378 км. За день прошли 48км.
At night has died from the cold, the temperature dropped to 7, had to get out of the sleeping bag and pull the fleece suit.

Thursday, 30 June, 18 day’s journey

8 am – usual morning business. Fish caught yesterday, so the oatmeal breakfast.
A little glue kayak – found a couple of small holes.
10 am – begin to gather. Before Romanovka about 95 km – a couple of days should be reached.
They went about 11 hours. Vitim flows between the mountains, a lot of shoals and Shiver, several thresholds, which are formed due to the low water level. A couple of times out in the shallows and carried the canoe – not enough depth. On the banks are mainly hill slopes covered with larch. Occasionally there are stunted birches. By the end of the day we have already seen a few pines.

Before lunch, we met the shore a rubber boat. Bailiff and went ashore. Guys from Chita in a car UAZ came to hunt and fish. And his son with him to take the dog. Dog black and still young. A photo. It is said that in the following plants should already be a pike. He left them the address of your page on the Internet. We said goodbye and moved on.
After about 1 km away in her bra after rolling I tried to leave the spoon. There are the first in this campaign pike! To measure – 58 cm.

On 15 and 16 staged a snack. Near the shallows threw a small turntable – there are still a few small lenkov on the ear. There were up to 21 hours, long time did not have a suitable parking space. Finally we found.
Quickly cooked dinner – ear of Lena, and sleep! Pike will have tomorrow.
Were busy for some reason right up to 24 hours. Lights out.
Parking: N 53° 23,419′ E 112° 18,012′ H 918 м S 425 км. The day was 47 km.

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

Friday, July 1, the 19th day of the journey

7-15. On the morning of urgent work – battery charging. I unfold the solar battery and set in the sun. After a morning coffee break took up canoe. Yesterday added kilson holes along the pipe. 4 glued patch. Irina at this time engaged in a fire and breakfast. We had breakfast – soup from a pike.

10-05. Up went inflatable motorboat with a propeller, a man with a woman. Motor hums like a small plane.
Writing blogs and slowly going. Before Romanovka another 48 km. While the schedule caught up.
At 11 o’clock it seemed boat propeller – stuck to us. We chatted a bit. A photo. Irina begged Popper – the guys gave us a large floating locusts or grasshoppers. Thank you! Now all our pike! Just him and trailers. We gathered and half an hour left. Please go through the valley, the mountains far away. Finely, continuous rolls. Then the river slowly drawn into the mountains. It was fun, went Shiver and small sills.

Changed grasshopper on a small wobbler – immediately began pecking at small wreaths. In the evening there were already 11 pieces. I got even one okushok. Notice that 30 km from the Romanovka on the banks started to fall pruning forests – mainly pine. On the banks of lying many napilennyh chocks. We thought that someone had to cut firewood, and then floated on the river. But fishermen, whom we met at 5 km, said that the remnants and scraps of wood that intensively harvested in winter, and Vitim used as a way for the export of timber. We drove straight across the ice, because the mountains are not proedesh.

They began to park in a small suburban 20-30 sandy small beach for two. Saline 4 largest Lenca, and others to be eaten cooked.
Parking: N 53° 14,523′ E 112° 39,460′ H 893 м S 466 км. The day passed 41 km.

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

More detailed photos №4 here

village of Romanovka

Saturday, July 2, 20 day’s journey

7 am. The sun starts to come out and just warmer. At night it was 6 in the morning +9. And with the advent of the sun soon rises to +15. Koster and morning coffee with saline in a glass jar Lenk. Salted 2 days ago – I am ready. Then Irina took up cooking breakfast, and I was a little glue “Rysku”. Impose a 3 small patches, then bathed and started breakfast.

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

Slowly we broke camp and left 10. Before Romanovka another 8 km and 3 registered threshold. After 2 km starting Shiver “Harrow-1” and “2-Harrow.” Coordinates after said passage (approximately 100 m downstream):
Point 022: N 53° 13,634′ E 112° 40,420′
Point 023: N 53° 13,955′ E 112° 41,625′
Between the slate of about 300 m., “Harrow-2” is much more powerful, level II KS at low water.
On LB ahead of visible transmission towers. Near power lines on the BOP (in clearings) met the remains of 2 frames of catamarans K4. Apparently there spring someone finished the route.

A little more – and seemed Romanovka home. But before it blocks a river ridge black Kamenyuki about 3 meters high. Between them narrow passages. Threshold “3 brothers”. A photo. In our water passage between them is simple – a small shivera with small stones. You can imagine what’s going on in the big water !!! Slightly twirled and take pictures. Houses already there, on the other hand, some viewed threshold. The main village below, near the bridge. We go around the small stone ridge at the right side and approach the already lower in the old stables, just before the bridge.

13.10. There went up a small street, and locals say that not far from here to the big store. They are there for a few.
Irina ran to the shops to buy groceries for a further piece of the route, and I went to the bank to the stable, settled down in the shade and took CellPhones. Communication “Megaphone” has appeared in about 7 km to the Romanovka – right after “Harrow-2”. Sending SMS-ing home in Kiev. Then I go out to the ICQ – to talk with the people.

Irina ran 2 times for food shopping. Brought two bags of supplies – according to our estimates could hold out until the BAM railway bridge. Well, if even where there will be opportunities to purchase products. Photo of the bridge and the village.
Romanovka: N 53° 12,952′ E 112° 46,219′ S=477 км.

Slightly sat in the shade, drank beer. Then download the product for Hermia, all sank and went on. On the banks of a lot of people, children bathed, and just relax, sunbathe. Fishermen are – trying to catch something, but say they do not bite. Although we have to Romanovka above thresholds, well pecked flax. Vitim after the bridge left into a small valley, once expanded. Shallows, small rapids. We decided to move a little farther away from naselenki, find a good place for tomorrow’s day’s rest. But somehow it did not like the place. That tree is not present, the place occupied by fishermen, then something else …

So we choose and up to 20 hours. Already around the corner at the PB Show more sand and pebble spit. A top – row of poplars. We got almost to the middle of the turn and spit steel. Great place for a day’s rest! Unload, put the tent under the bushes, so that during the day it was in the shade. Then the wood, fire, dinner. We drank beer – and sleep.
Parking: N 53° 20,214′ E 112° 54,597′ H 887 м. S 502 км.
The day passed 36 km. Total water today according to the navigator (there is prescribed track) we passed 502 km.

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

On the kayak on Lake Baikal to Yakutsk - part 1

(To be continued)

Source: Home diary Chugai Valentina
Part 1 diary Chugai Valentina

Translation: Google

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